Paris Haute Couture: Highlights from the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2023-24 Collection

Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24: Iris van Herpen's Futuristic Fashion Inspired by Aquatic Architecture

Exciting biodynamic shapes, futuristic techniques and beautiful materials, inspired by aquatic urbanism, were key to the new haute couture collection by Iris van Herpen. Main photograph above and cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM

Iris van Herpen's Autumn/Winter 2023-24 haute couture collection, presented in Paris, drew inspiration from architects, oceanographers, and futuristic floating cities, her creations blurred the boundaries between fashion and architecture. With a palette that echoed the ocean's hues and designs that mirrored the adaptability of marine life, the show took us on a journey through uncharted waters, towards a future where we live on both land and sea, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou

Laser cut designs in sea-colored 

hues suggest architectural forms for

ocean living. 

At the heart of her latest collection, called Architectonics, is Dutch designer Iris van Herpen's exploration of aquatic urbanism. Inspired by the works of Jacques Rougerie, van Herpen bridges the gap between scientific exploration and fashion innovation. 

The collection pays homage to Rougerie's underwater habitats and floating laboratories, translating their structural intricacies into wearable art. Another significant influence is the revolutionary 'Oceanix' floating city in South Korea, designed by architect Bjarke Ingels, which integrates sustainability principles into waterborne urbanism. Vincent Callebaut's ocean architecture projects, including 'Lilypad' and 'Oceanscrapers,' further informed van Herpen's ideas, showcasing the synergy between architectural design, fashion and ecological preservation. 

The Autumn/Winter 2023-24 show was held in the beautiful gardens of the Hôtel d'Avaray, an 18th century mansion located in rue de Grenelle, in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, in the Île-de-France (see below). Built in 1718-20 for the Marquis d'Avaray, it was designed by the architect Jean-Baptiste Leroux. Although it remained in the Avaray family until 1920, it has since been the property of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, which made it its embassy from 1920 to 1973. More recently it has served as the ambassador's residence.

The collection pays homage to underwater habitats and floating laboratories, translating their structural intricacies into wearable art

Dutch designer Iris van Herpen wears one 

of her new creations in the gardens of the 

Netherlands ambassador's residence in Paris

A Chromatic Harmony:

Van Herpen showed the 17 new designs amid the greenery, which enhanced the ideas behind her ecological themes. The striking gowns have her signature combination of futuristic technique with an ethereal elegance that makes them seem from another world. 

The laser cut and shaped bodies formed the "trunk" of the tree with the "branches" forming shimmering extrusions around the head and body.  The fluidity of diaphanous fabrics gave the designs the flow and movement that suggest the sea.  

Fashion and Futuristic Urbanism: 

The collection's avant-garde ethos resonates with a radical shift in urban planning and new concepts for more resilient cities of the future. Embracing principles of parametric architecture, the designs embody fluidity, fragmentation, and dynamic patterns. 

Explosive interplays of light and shadow dance around the body, while fractal forms and distorted perspectives redefine conventional fashion boundaries. Van Herpen's fusion of new ideas about fashion and floating architecture is a testament to the designer's commitment to pushing the limits of creativity and innovation. 

The striking gowns have van Herpen's signature combination of futuristic technique and ethereal elegance 

 

Abalone shell flakes form a

glimmering sheen on this 

striking design

Cutting-edge Techniques:

The collection introduces revolutionary couture techniques that intertwine fashion and architecture. The 'Biophilic' technique involves the intricate bonding of architectural structures to create molds for injecting marble-textured silicone. Abalone shell flakes are hand-inlaid culminating in a play of textures and iridescence (see at left). 

The 'Oceanix' includes graphic polygon patterns that deconstruct and evolve with the body's movement. 'Sensorama,' characterized by 3D fractal formations, creates seductive cutouts within sculptural silhouettes. 

Aquatic Harmony and Elegance: 

The harmonious color palette of the collection embraces oceanic hues, ranging from mint-green and abalone-blue to pearlescent shell shades. Graphic contrasts of white and black are accented with metallic detailing in silver, bronze, and gold. 

The collection's boots were created through digital modeling and 3D printing in collaboration with Scry, along with face jewelry co-designed with Malakai and Rinaldy Yunardi. Each piece tries to express the idea of waterborne urbanism, blurring the lines between human habitation and marine ecosystems. 

The designer challenges us to reimagine our existence and redefine our relationship with the environment

Futuristic face jewellery created 

for the collection with Malakai

and Rinaldy Yunardi. 

Architectural Convergence: 

As concerns over rising sea levels grow, the ideas that inspired van Herpen's work resonate as a response to the urgent need for innovative living spaces. 

With themes drawn from the world's first floating city, and those visionary architects Rougerie and Callebaut, the collection symbolizes a future where humanity seamlessly navigates both land and water. 

Through her work in haute couture, Iris van Herpen challenges us to reimagine our existence and redefine our relationship with the environment, working with ecosystems that define our world.

Bionic architecture has emerged as a response to climate change concerns. This architectural movement integrates biological principles to design self-sufficient structures responsive to environmental shifts. By studying nature's responses to forces, architects create buildings that modify themselves, fostering harmony between society and nature through intricate interactions of form, material, and structure.

Iris van Herpen's Architectonics collection marries these architectural concepts with haute couture, delivering a glimpse into a future where humanity and the oceans can coexist. As our world faces pressing environmental challenges, this collection offers not only a visual feast but also new ideas about creating a more sustainable future. 

Highlights from Iris van Herpen's Architectonics AW 2023-24 Collection in Paris

Wooyoungmi: Bridging Cultures through Fashion and Exploring Jeju Island's Contrasting Identities

A translucent and shimmering design with delicate illustrations of the Nomura jellyfish, a highlight of the new Wooyoungmi collection. Main photograph (above) and cover picture by Elli Ioannou.

As the world's attention turns towards South Korea, with the explosion of K-pop, local label Wooyoumgmi's Spring 2024 collection explores the country's culture and the global fascination it inspires. Creative director Madame Woo drew inspiration from the contrasting facets of Jeju Island, showing the dichotomy between the raw and rocky environment of the haenyeo divers and the vibrant party culture adored by the nation's youth, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Elli Ioannou

Immersed in the blue light of a

metaphorical sea, Wooyoungmi's 

creations glimmered tantalizingly.

Emerging from the inky blue depths of the half-lit Théâtre National de Chaillot, in Paris' Place du Trocadéro, the models of the Wooyoungmi show looked as if they were creatures from the sea. 

This was all part of the theme of Madame Woo's new SS24 collection. She was thinking of the resilient female divers from the volcanic South Korean Jeju Island who dive for seafood to support their families, a tradition that dates back to the 17th century. Known as haenyeo, these divers don repurposed garments, layering them under utilitarian diving gear. 

Madame Woo explores the culture of Jeju by juxtaposing two contrasting aspects: the laborious world of the haenyeo and the party atmosphere of the island. 

The collection's silhouettes oscillate between figure-hugging and voluminous shapes and play on the opaque and transparent nature of different materials. Scuba gilets, trousers, and tops embrace a body-conscious line, contrasting with the loose-fitting lightweight tailoring reminiscent of an Eighties summertime sensibility. 

Madame Woo explores the culture of Jeju by juxtaposing two contrasting aspects: the laborious world of the haenyeo and the party atmosphere of the island 

The voluminous shirts and trousers

recalled the '80s party scene

on Jeju Island. 

Madame Woo's keen observation of the connections between her own culture and Europe is another key theme in the collection's narrative. Inspired by history, her designs also draw from the encounter between South Korea and the West in 1628 when a group of Dutchmen were shipwrecked on Jeju. 

Hendrik Hamel, one of the survivors, documented this encounter and published the first account of the kingdom in Europe, in 1668. Recalling this historical event, the collection has a modern take on a 1600s aesthetic with ruffles, ruches, and diaphanous garments. Dutch seaman's hats find parallel expression in the scuba-inspired accessories. 

The collection also embraces the island's natural wonders with scientific illustrations of the Nomura's jellyfish, indigenous to the waters surrounding Jeju, printed on shirts, tops, and even the models' skin. 

Neon-bright graphics recall rave culture and the techno party aesthetic of the island with draped dresses and tops adorned with embroidered tentacles along with voluminous tech workwear and denim pieces.  

Asymmetrically-tied, second-skin tops pay homage to the art of bojagi, a Korean wrapping technique but have the technical construction of a swimsuit. Evocative, translucent materials are used for outerwear, tops, trousers, and skirts, while a resin abstraction of jellyfish is designed as striking jewelry pieces, including necklaces, earrings, and ear cuffs. 

The designer's keen observation of the connections between her own culture and Europe is another key theme in the collection's narrative

This was sleek yet sumptuous collection that 

was both original and very wearable. 

The color palette draws inspiration from the natural landscape of Jeju, incorporating black, brown, navy, slate, light blue, and sunset reds and pinks, invigorated by vibrant electric hits of neon colors.

By intertwining historical narratives, contrasting elements of Jeju's identity, and nature-inspired aesthetics, Madame Woo creates a collection that is both visually captivating and culturally significant. 

This exploration is woven into the collection's silhouettes, materials, and colors, creating a captivating story that reflects the historical meeting between South Korea and the West and the world of the divers and party people of Jeju. 

Breaking Boundaries: Henrik Vibskov's New Collection Unboxes Fashion's Conventions and Celebrates 20 Years of Creative Excellence

The vivid orange boxing rings of Henrik Vibskov's presentation at the Lycée Henri-IV in Paris. Main photograph (above) and cover picture of the Wooyoungmi SS24 show by Elli Ioannou for DAM. 

In a departure from conventional inspirations, Danish designer Henrik Vibskov broke new ground with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented in Paris. Drawing from the unexpected realms of cardboard boxes and the art of boxing, Vibskov challenges the limits of creativity and reimagines the concept of packaging. By exploring the symbolic and physical dimensions of boxes, the collection ignites curiosity and prompts us to reconsider the very essence of fashion, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou 

For the new collection, Vibskov was

inspired by both the world of packaging 

and boxing in the ring. 

In a world where fashion constantly seeks inspiration from the unlikeliest sources, Henrik Vibskov presented a collection that pushes the boundaries of creativity and challenges the notions of packaging. 

For the new SS24 Studio collection, the designer found inspiration in the mundane yet intriguing world of cardboard boxes and the captivating universe of boxing. 

The concept of the box ~ able to both contain and protect precious items during transit ~ resonated deeply with Vibskov. He and his team delved into the significance of boxes, exploring the meticulous act of carefully packing goods, the thrill of sending and receiving packages, and the curious excitement that accompanies the unboxing experience. 

As they explored the ideas, they realized that the human mind has an inherent inclination to sort and categorize, to put things into boxes both physically and symbolically. This unconscious reflex became the driving force behind the collection and reflected this theme in many aspects of the design. 

For the new collection, Henrik Vibskov found inspiration in the mundane yet intriguing world of cardboard boxes and the captivating universe of boxing

The installation of the colorful boxing arena 

created an intriguing space where 

fashion and sport meet. 

The installation of the Vibskov boxing arena in the courtyard of Paris' Lycée Henri-IV was like entering a kaleidoscopic world where fashion and sport collide. The ring, soft and fringed in brilliant orange, pulsated with energy and life. 

Guests were introduced to the fighters ~ Vibskov's creations ~ as they took center stage within ever-changing boxing rings. 

Their movements echo a waltz, gracefully dancing around the rings, inviting viewers to explore the uncharted territories of fashion and self-expression. The collection is even called the Unboxing Waltz Tutorial.

With this new collection, Henrik Vibskov once again proves his ability to challenge conventions and redefines fashion. By drawing inspiration from the world of boxing and the art of unboxing, Vibskov presents a collection that not only celebrates the transient nature of our lives but also promotes sustainability and mindful consumption. 

The designer challenges conventions and redefines fashion, creating a collection that promotes sustainability and mindful consumption. 

This striking 'boxy' checked suit was part of the 

new SS24 collection. 

Through his innovative designs and conscious choices, Vibskov invites us to unbox not just physical objects but also the symbolic boxes we inhabit, encouraging us to embrace the unexpected and explore the possibilities that lie beyond the confines of tradition.

Dresses and shirts take inspiration from unexpected deliveries, with front and back designs that can be interchanged, blurring the lines between what is expected and what is unconventional. 

Garment details play with the shape of handles, mimicking the practicality of boxes, while textiles reminiscent of bubble wrap add an element of surprise and contrast to the otherwise structured boxy styles. Woven textiles toy with the notion of being in transit or out for delivery.

Prints feature flat unfolded boxes, dynamic collages of boxing rings, and boxing glove flowers: symbolically knocking out preconceived notions and standards. Even the delivery bird makes an appearance, transformed into a peace dove, spreading its message of harmony and unity. 

Vibskov invites us to unbox not just physical objects but also the symbolic boxes we inhabit, encouraging us to embrace the unexpected

This garment (above) has "out for delivery" 

as part of its textile design worn with

an abstracted boxing belt that

 reflects the collection's themes.

To complement the collection, Vibskov collaborated with jewelry designer Vibe Harsløf. The result is an array of silver showpieces and accessories. 

Handmade with intricate detail, these pieces feature silver birds and band aids as pendant earrings, necklaces, and nose pieces. Headpieces adorned with cartoonish birds circling add a touch of whimsy and playfulness to the overall aesthetic. 

 

In an era where sustainable practices in producing fashion are vital, Henrik Vibskov and his team have made conscious choices to ensure the collection aligns with their environmental values. All fabrics used have been upgraded and transformed to be either recycled or organic. In fact, 83% of the garments in the SS24 collection consist of certified fabrics. Vibskov remains committed to increasing the use of both certified organic textiles and using nontoxic dyes and prints.

The designer believes sustainable practices in producing fashion are vital and has ensured the collection aligns with his environmental values.

The knitwear in deep purples and ochres depicts 

a bird in a striking pattern. 

Special to this season's collection was Henrik Vibskov's celebration of his 20th anniversary of artistic endeavors in France. The designer graduated from London's Central St Martin’s in 2001 and two years later, in January 2003, he was made a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine. 

For more than ten years, Vibskov was the only Danish fashion designer to be on the official show schedule of the Paris Men's Fashion Week. 

Along with his fashion collections, Vibskov has also exhibited at the Hyeres Festival as well as at Galeries de Galeries, Saint Etienne Biennale, Maison du Danemark and Palais de Tokyo. Multi-talented,Vibskov is also a musician, and has played a number of concerts including with electronic artist, Trentemøller, on stage at the Bataclan Theatre in Paris. Other work encompasses designing costumes for Alexander Ekman’s Swanlake shown at Le Théâtre des Champs-Elysées.

Tradition and Modernity in Homme Plisse Issey Miyake's Spring/Summer 2024 Collection

Wearing a symphony of soft sage greens, a model walks in the new Homme Plisse Issey Miyake SS24 show in Paris at the Louvre's Museum of Decorative Arts. Cover picture and all photographs by Elli Ioannou.

The new Homme Plisse Issey Miyake collection.  showcases the Japanese brand's commitment to innovative design and impeccable craftsmanship. With its fresh color palette, imaginative silhouettes, and intricate pleating techniques, the Spring/Summer 2024 range, presented at Paris Men's Fashion Week, is a testament to a successful fusion of tradition and modernity, writes Antonio Visconti. Photographs by Elli Ioannou

The new garments in the SS24 collection float

above the runway, as the rest are unfurled

below from pleated paper.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, occupies the north wing of the Louvre Palace, known as the Pavillon de Marsan. With over one million objects in its collection, it is the largest museum of decorative arts in continental Europe.

Under the soaring, arcaded ceiling, Issey Miyake latest Homme Plisse men's collection was presented, captivating the audience with its innovative approach to design. 

Called Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter, the collection expresses Issey Miyake's originality, drawing inspiration from the art of pleating that has become synonymous with the label. The collection has an array of fresh and simple silhouettes, infused with a vibrant color palette. Embodying Issey Miyake's philosophy, with its combination of purity and technology, the new designs are well suited for quotidian life.

The Spring/Summer 2024 Paris show began with a dramatic spectacle: a giant roll of pleated paper cascaded down the museum gallery, unravelling to reveal meticulously wrapped garments. Accompanying this rather mesmerizing display, the design team emerged onto the catwalk, dressing the models in these carefully crafted pieces. By integrating elements of the pleating process into the scenography, the performance showcased the potential of this technology.

The new collection expresses Issey Miyake's originality, drawing inspiration from the art of pleating that has become synonymous with the label. 

The brilliantly-hued finale of the show, 

evoking the bright prints of the

Picturesque series.

One of the collection's highlights is the Monthly Colour series, which introduces a selection of hues each month. For this season, the palette offers a harmonious blend of soft and rich shades inspired by the natural world. These colors evoke the tones derived from dyeing organic materials, creating a visually striking ensemble.

The Rectangle series draws its name from the construction of the fabric when it is stretched out. However, when worn, it transforms into an asymmetrical silhouette, with the edges gracefully cascading along the contours of the body. 

The Picturesque range introduces a series of prints depicting naturalistic landscapes such as mountains, wind, and earth. Presented in simple triangular and round shapes, these prints are layered with translucent paints to accentuate the depth and boldness of the colors (see above). This interpretation of nature breathes life into the collection, embodying the spirit of artistic expression.

The Horizon Pleats demonstrates a breakthrough in the brand's pleating technique. By altering the direction of folds, the garments achieve horizontal pleats, infusing the silhouettes with a sense of movement and lightness. Years of experimentation have made this seemingly simple innovation possible, demonstrating the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries and evolving their technology.

Altering the direction of folds, the garments achieve horizontal pleats, infusing the silhouettes with a sense of movement and lightness

One of the standouts of the collections is the

Wing Coat with its graceful lines and 

voluminous silhouette.

Drawing inspiration from the wings of airplanes and birds, the Wing Coat (see at left) offers a visually captivating interpretation of flight. The back vent expands gracefully in the wind, imbuing the garment with a sense of dynamic motion. 

Crafted from a lightweight stretch fabric with a natural texture, these pieces exude an airy and comfortable fit, embodying Issey Miyake's commitment to merging form and function.

The "PL Ramie Shirt" series showcases a design reminiscent of a hood, with added layering at the shoulders. The smooth texture of the fabric enhances the draping effect, resulting in a luxurious feel. Available in three models and varying lengths, these shirts offer versatility for different occasions.

The Edge Ensemble and Edge Light Coat feature a wide accordion pleat that defines its aesthetic. Made from recycled polyester with a subtle sheen and material texture, that lends an ethereal touch to formal attire. Meanwhile, the coat is available in two new models: a trench coat and a hoodie jacket, providing contemporary and stylish options for outerwear enthusiasts.

Drawing inspiration from the wings of airplanes and birds, the Wing Coat offers a visually captivating interpretation of flight

The Edge Coat features a wide accordion 

pleat in recylcled polyester. 

The new footwear in the collection includesge, the Like Loafers line which offers a moccasin designed for comfort and versatility. 

Crafted from elasticated materials, these loafers blend casual and formal elements, making them very wearable. There are three color choices - beige, anthracite, and black.

The Homme Plisse Issey Miyake collection epitomizes the storied Japanese fashion house's dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and everyday functionality. 

By delving into the art of pleating and integrating it with cutting-edge design, this collection marks a significant milestone in the label's journey. 

With its vivid color palette, innovative shapes and thoughtful details, the collection invites wearers to embrace their individuality and embark on a sartorial journey that combines tradition and technology. 

Beyoncé's Heliosphere Gown Shines on the Renaissance World Tour

Beyonce on stage in Amsterdam wearing Iris van Herpen's Heliosphere gown. Photograph: Andrew White

In a dazzling fusion of art and performance, Beyoncé entranced audiences during her Renaissance world tour with the magnificent Heliosphere Gown. Designed by Iris van Herpen, the bespoke creation was meticulously crafted with innovative techniques and shimmering crystals, writes Isabella Lancellotti

The singer has championed designers.

from every country where she has performed.

Photograph: Andrew White 

Beyoncé took the stage during the opening act of her highly anticipated Renaissance tour in Amsterdam wearing a haute couture creation called the Heliosphere gown.

Designed by futuristic Dutch couturier Iris van Herpen, the gown captivated the audience. The singer has championed designers from each country where she is performing. 

"It has been a huge honor to design and create the custom 'Heliosphere Gown' for Beyoncé," says Iris van Herpen. 

"In her epic Renaissance tour, Beyoncé embodies feminine empowerment. She emphasizes that confidence radiates from within, and that beauty thrives in diversity. Her style is a kaleidoscope of elegance that inspired me and my team in every stitch, every bead, and every petal - along the 700-hour journey of creating her halo-shaped gown."

Designed by futuristic Dutch couturier Iris van Herpen, this gown captivated the audience and was a symbol of a powerful woman. 

Iris van Herpen's design for the gown.

To bring the Heliosphere gown to life, a process combining innovative techniques and fine craftsmanship was employed. 

A total of 980 shapes, resembling celestial arcs, were carefully 3D constructed by casting silver-marbled silicone into mirrored laser-cut outlines. 

These molds were then formed, laying the foundation for the gown's otherworldly charm.

Each shape was individually stitched onto nude tulle, creating a delicate interplay of transparency and opulence. 

The gown's embellishment was further enhanced by the sparkling Swarovski crystals, interspersed between the shapes.

The most dramatic aspect of the Heliosphere gown was 'halo', a feat of both engineering and artistic vision. Shaped with a hot-air gun, using a transparent material, an almost invisible, floating structure looked like a crown of light around Beyoncé'.

To bring the Heliosphere gown to life, a process combining innovative techniques and fine craftsmanship was employed

Beyonce backstage at her concert

in Amsterdam wearing the gown. 

Photograph: Andrew White

The gown's voluminous cape was crafted from glass-organza, adding an element of drama to the ensemble. Adorned with an intricate artwork embellished in mirror-mylar, the cape dazzled with reflections of light.

Twelve of Iris Van Herpen's team at her atelier poured their passion and expertise into the piece along with 700 hours of work. The attention to detail and creativity makes the gown more a work of wearable art than fashion.

Van Herpen designed the Heliosphere gown to be a harmonious fusion of innovation and craftsmanship. While it not only celebrates the remarkable talent of Beyoncé it exemplifies the power of fashion to convey messages beyond the quotidian. As the singer graced the stage, this diaphanous creation, was an atmospheric addition to the soaring musicality that kept the audience enraptured during the show. 

Sustainable Fashion Takes Centre Stage at Chloé

Gabriela Hearst melds classic design with concern for the planet creating her new collection. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM MODA. 

Chloé's Creative Director, Gabriela Hearst, understands the power of pieces that are crafted to last and with her latest Spring 2024 collection, she celebrates sustainability in the fashion industry, craftsmanship, and a commitment to leaving a positive impact on the planet, reports Antonio Visconti

Hearst creates stylish and elegant

collections while being aware of 

how they affect the environment.

The Spring 2024 collection at Chloé embraces notions of consciousness, circularity, and timelessness. These themes are interwoven throughout the aesthetic and technical aspects of the designs, creating a harmonious balance between style and sustainability. 

Hearst emphasizes that "reducing the Maison's carbon footprint and prioritizing materials that enable this are of the highest priority, without compromising on design and desirability."

"In the ever-rapidly moving world, I find solace in timeless design – pieces that are long-lasting in their execution and made to be atemporal with the hope of being passed down from one generation to the next," Hearst says. Her vision is clear: to create garments that not only captivate with their beauty but also embody a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Taking a closer look at the collection, there is a tapestry of eco-conscious choices and exquisite craftsmanship. For instance, one look features denim trousers made almost entirely from upcycled cotton, a shirt cut from deadstock cotton, and sunglasses crafted from recycled acetate. 

It's a testament to the power of putting the environment first without sacrificing beauty or elegance. Hearst remarks: "When I see look six, for instance, it gives me great pleasure to know that the decision to put the environment first didn't affect the beauty of the design but empowered it."

The collection delves into the natural world, expressing both its resilience and vulnerability through design choices. A turtleneck sweater in recycled cashmere combines with jeans made from recycled cotton and hemp denim, developed exclusively with Adriano Goldschmied. The incorporation of botanical motif guipure lace inserts in a lower-impact wool rib knit further accentuates the connection to nature. 

Gabriela Hearst aims to create garments that not only captivate with their beauty but also embody a commitment to environmental responsibility.

All rugged up in shearling,

denim and suede.

But sustainability doesn't stop at materials; it extends to the very essence of the garments. Some pieces cleverly play with appearances, inviting you to experience their texture. 

A light indigo jacket with a shearling collar and matching flared trousers may seem like denim or corduroy at first glance, but they are actually soft suede. 

A lace crew-neck sweater and skirt, too, deceive the eye, revealing a technical knit of contrasting matte cashmere and lustrous silk, adding depth and a feminine fluidity to the designs.

Chloé explores classic garments and heritage textiles, infusing them with a modern touch. The Maison introduces a bespoke cotton-wool tweed with multicolor mouliné threads, used for a trench coat and new renditions of the Penelope shoulder bag. 

A bow motif adorns bags, jewellery, shoes, and dresses. The marriage of jewellery-inspired embellishments with ready-to-wear techniques results in innovative designs, such as chains whip-stitched onto the lapels of jackets and overcoats or transformed into buttons on a cape coat.

Gabriela Hearst's interest in fashion history is evident in her exploration of the Chloé Archive. Inspired by the work of Karl Lagerfeld, who spent 25 years designing for the Maison, she distilled his vision into 28 looks for the Met Costume Institute exhibition 'Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty.' 

"I find solace in timeless design ~ pieces that are long-lasting and made to be atemporal with the hope of being passed down from one generation to the next."

Fluid femininity created with

wool knit and a botancial guipure

lace insert,

At this year's Met Gala, she paid homage to Lagerfeld by creating custom red-carpet creations, including a column dress for actress Maude Apatow. 

The Spring 2024 festive capsule draws inspiration from Lagerfeld's iconic designs, featuring wool crepe coats, dresses, bags, jewellery, and footwear adorned with arrow-shaped crystal embellishments.

Chloé's commitment to sustainability goes beyond the runway. The Maison incorporates eco-friendly materials into its products, such as recycled cotton, linen, acetate, and bio-based nylon. 

The Marcie bag, Penelope bag, Nama sneaker, and eyewear ranges all showcase the brand's dedication to a more conscious and responsible approach to fashion.

As the world of fashion continues to evolve, Chloé stands as an example of how good design and sustainability can coexist harmoniously.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Gabriela Hearst's Spring 2024 Collection