Paris Fashion Week: The Anatomy of Uncertainty at Kidill Spring/Summer 2027

Kidill's new Spring/Summer 2027 collection, called Chaotic Discord, was presented in Paris.

At Paris Fashion Week, Hiroaki Sueyasu unveiled a collection that signalled a notable evolution for Kidill. Rather than relying on familiar visual provocations, the Japanese designer turned his focus toward the mechanics of construction, material experimentation and the transformative potential of clothing itself. The result was a thoughtful exploration of form and imperfection, where garments appeared to exist in a constant state of becoming rather than completion. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento

Hiroaki Sueyasu draws

on his British punk ethos 

for the exuberant designs.

FOR more than a decade, Hiroaki Sueyasu has occupied a singular position within contemporary fashion. While many designers build recognisable signatures through repetition, the founder of Kidill has consistently resisted the comfort of a fixed visual language. 

His Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Chaotic Discord, represents perhaps the clearest articulation yet of that philosophy. This season, Sueyasu shifted attention away from the graphic intensity and overt cultural references that have often characterised the label. Instead, he turned inward, exploring the architecture of garments themselves. 

The result was a collection concerned less with image-making than with construction, process and transformation. “Looking back, Kidill has existed for over twelve years now. And, to say it plainly, I finally feel ready to confront the very depth of clothing,” Sueyasu explained. 

That ambition was visible throughout the collection. Traditional tailoring principles were disrupted through complex internal engineering that caused jackets, trousers and shirts to bend, twist and ripple away from conventional proportions. Rather than presenting clothing as a finished object, Sueyasu treated each piece as a living structure capable of movement and evolution. 

Material experimentation became equally important. Surfaces appeared weathered, fractured and unstable, as though garments had already lived through years of wear before arriving on the runway. Yet these effects were not decorative gestures. They introduced the idea of time as an active collaborator, allowing garments to continue changing long after they leave the designer's hands. 

"I don't want to endorse yesterday's chaos as it hardens into a 'classic uniform' and starts to look like an answer. I still want mystery and secrets to remain inside the clothing” 

Theis season's collaboration with

Juicy Couture, allowed Sueyasu

to transform recognisable motifs.

Elsewhere, familiar textiles were dismantled and reconstructed into unexpected configurations. Enlarged tartan patchworks challenged conventional ideas of balance and symmetry, while layered graphic treatments revealed and concealed imagery simultaneously. The collection repeatedly invited viewers to look twice, rewarding closer inspection with hidden details and secondary narratives. 

The season's collaboration with Juicy Couture offered a particularly intriguing contrast. Drawing on the glamour and celebrity culture of the early 2000s, Sueyasu transformed recognisable motifs into something far stranger and more experimental, demonstrating his ability to absorb established visual codes while refusing nostalgia. 

The title Chaotic Discord ultimately describes neither destruction nor disorder. Instead, it reflects a refusal to accept easy conclusions. 

As Sueyasu himself observed: “Chaos, too, transforms with time. I don't want to endorse the moment when yesterday's chaos hardens into a 'classic uniform' and starts to look like an answer. I still want mystery and secrets to remain inside the clothing.” 

See more of the Kidill Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris below

Paris Fashion Week: Études Studio and the Urbane Fashion Architecture of Now

On another roiling day in Paris' summer heat, Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry presented their new SS27 collection at the Palais de Tokyo.

Études Studio opened Paris Fashion Week with a collection that refined its ongoing dialogue between contemporary art, urban codes and menswear construction, led by Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry. The season sharpened the brand’s visual language of fragmentation, utility and architectural thinking, presenting an engaging evolution of its design vocabulary. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento

Strong contrasts and sleek design

were a feature of the collection.

AT the Palais de Tokyo, Études Studio, on the first day of Paris Fashion Week during a searingly hot afternoon, launched a collection that felt precisely calibrated to its architectural surroundings. Presented in the colossal building’s Galerie Basse, the show unfolded in a cavernous, raw concrete space that might not have been cooler than outside but heightened attention to material, proportion and construction, allowing the clothes to operate within a stripped-back, almost forensic clarity.

For Spring/Summer 2027, Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry, extended their ongoing dialogue between contemporary art, urban space and menswear, drawing conceptual grounding from the work of Gordon Matta-Clark. 

Rather than treating his practice as visual reference, the designers translated its structural logic into clothing, thinking through interruption, absence and altered form as principles of construction rather than decoration.

That sense of disruption ran throughout the collection, called Short Term Eternity. Garments were built around controlled breaks in silhouette: circular cut-outs, shifted planes and void-like interventions that appeared carved into the fabric rather than applied onto it. Elsewhere, references to urban fragmentation surfaced through photographic treatments embedded into textiles, dissolving distinctions between image, surface and structure.

Knits emerged as one of the collection’s strongest components, exploring tension between opacity and openness 

Creamy, sandy neutrals and knits were

standouts for Spring/Summer 2027.

Despite its conceptual clarity, the collection remained anchored in pragmatic wearability. Tailoring was softened and slightly elongated, moving between precision and ease. Lightweight coats, layered shirting and relaxed separates were rendered in sand-hued neutrals and muted industrial tones, creating a restrained palette that reinforced the architectural mood without overwhelming it.

Menswear remained central, while womenswear appeared as a deliberate extension of the same design language. A satin bomber with removable sleeves introduced modular construction, while fluid leather trousers and softened outerwear added movement and contrast. 

Bermudas with sharper front detailing brought a more defined summer register, though the overall attitude remained urban rather than seasonal.

Knits emerged as one of the collection’s strongest components, exploring tension between opacity and openness through varied structures and densities. Across the collection, Études Studio’s continued evolution of accessories, particularly leather goods, reinforced a coherent system of dressing, where utility and refinement coexist without contradiction.

References to urban fragmentation surfaced through photographic treatments embedded into textiles, dissolving distinctions between image, surface and structure.

Circular motifs were a 

strong theme of the designs.

Rather than relying on overt narrative, Arbet and Egry built the collection through repetition and refinement of established codes: utility references, adapted workwear structures and treated denim, all pushed forward with greater control and restraint. The result was not a departure, but a consolidation of language, one that felt increasingly precise in its articulation.

Set against David Douard’s shifting installation of vertical screens, the presentation extended these ideas into space. Movement through the show became fragmented and partial, as models passed through alternating layers of visibility and obstruction, echoing the collection’s central concern with interruption and reconfiguration.

Études Studio offered a more measured proposition for this new season's collection: a disciplined study by Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry of how clothing can register quotidian transformation yet still have an interesting, intellectual heft behind the seams.  

See the Études Studio collection for Spring/Summer 2027 at Paris Fashion Week