Wooyoungmi: Bridging Cultures through Fashion and Exploring Jeju Island's Contrasting Identities

A translucent and shimmering design with delicate illustrations of the Nomura jellyfish, a highlight of the new Wooyoungmi collection. Main photograph (above) and cover picture by Elli Ioannou.

As the world's attention turns towards South Korea, with the explosion of K-pop, local label Wooyoumgmi's Spring 2024 collection explores the country's culture and the global fascination it inspires. Creative director Madame Woo drew inspiration from the contrasting facets of Jeju Island, showing the dichotomy between the raw and rocky environment of the haenyeo divers and the vibrant party culture adored by the nation's youth, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Elli Ioannou

Immersed in the blue light of a

metaphorical sea, Wooyoungmi's 

creations glimmered tantalizingly.

Emerging from the inky blue depths of the half-lit Théâtre National de Chaillot, in Paris' Place du Trocadéro, the models of the Wooyoungmi show looked as if they were creatures from the sea. 

This was all part of the theme of Madame Woo's new SS24 collection. She was thinking of the resilient female divers from the volcanic South Korean Jeju Island who dive for seafood to support their families, a tradition that dates back to the 17th century. Known as haenyeo, these divers don repurposed garments, layering them under utilitarian diving gear. 

Madame Woo explores the culture of Jeju by juxtaposing two contrasting aspects: the laborious world of the haenyeo and the party atmosphere of the island. 

The collection's silhouettes oscillate between figure-hugging and voluminous shapes and play on the opaque and transparent nature of different materials. Scuba gilets, trousers, and tops embrace a body-conscious line, contrasting with the loose-fitting lightweight tailoring reminiscent of an Eighties summertime sensibility. 

Madame Woo explores the culture of Jeju by juxtaposing two contrasting aspects: the laborious world of the haenyeo and the party atmosphere of the island 

The voluminous shirts and trousers

recalled the '80s party scene

on Jeju Island. 

Madame Woo's keen observation of the connections between her own culture and Europe is another key theme in the collection's narrative. Inspired by history, her designs also draw from the encounter between South Korea and the West in 1628 when a group of Dutchmen were shipwrecked on Jeju. 

Hendrik Hamel, one of the survivors, documented this encounter and published the first account of the kingdom in Europe, in 1668. Recalling this historical event, the collection has a modern take on a 1600s aesthetic with ruffles, ruches, and diaphanous garments. Dutch seaman's hats find parallel expression in the scuba-inspired accessories. 

The collection also embraces the island's natural wonders with scientific illustrations of the Nomura's jellyfish, indigenous to the waters surrounding Jeju, printed on shirts, tops, and even the models' skin. 

Neon-bright graphics recall rave culture and the techno party aesthetic of the island with draped dresses and tops adorned with embroidered tentacles along with voluminous tech workwear and denim pieces.  

Asymmetrically-tied, second-skin tops pay homage to the art of bojagi, a Korean wrapping technique but have the technical construction of a swimsuit. Evocative, translucent materials are used for outerwear, tops, trousers, and skirts, while a resin abstraction of jellyfish is designed as striking jewelry pieces, including necklaces, earrings, and ear cuffs. 

The designer's keen observation of the connections between her own culture and Europe is another key theme in the collection's narrative

This was sleek yet sumptuous collection that 

was both original and very wearable. 

The color palette draws inspiration from the natural landscape of Jeju, incorporating black, brown, navy, slate, light blue, and sunset reds and pinks, invigorated by vibrant electric hits of neon colors.

By intertwining historical narratives, contrasting elements of Jeju's identity, and nature-inspired aesthetics, Madame Woo creates a collection that is both visually captivating and culturally significant. 

This exploration is woven into the collection's silhouettes, materials, and colors, creating a captivating story that reflects the historical meeting between South Korea and the West and the world of the divers and party people of Jeju.