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| Striking a sartorial pose at Pitti Uomo SS26 in the hot courtyard at the Fortezza da Basso. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn for DAM |
Florence is once again the epicentre of sartorial storytelling as Pitti Uomo Spring/Summer 2026 unfolds at the historic Fortezza da Basso. Running from June 17th to 20th, this much-anticipated edition marks Uomo 108, spotlighting over 730 brands. Yet the real heartbeat pulses beyond the exhibition stands, on the streets and pavements which feel like an open-air stage, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Check back for updated photographs every day by Andrea Heinsohn
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Florence's peaceful Arno River is a cool haven from the hot, stony streets of the city during summer |
One of the most talked-about highlights is the arrival of Homme Plissé by Issey Miyake, whose imaginative approach to presentation sidesteps the usual fashion shows, offering a poetic and functional vision of contemporary dressing.
Also gaining attention are younger designers such as Niccolò Pasqualetti, Children of the Discordance, and Post Archive Faction, each bringing a distinct and modern energy to the event.
Yet the real heartbeat of Pitti often pulses beyond the exhibition stands - in the streets themselves. This season, Florence’s pavements feel like an open-air stage, where personal style and group identity converge. A noticeable trend this year is the rise of coordinated dressing among friends and collaborators: duos in matching silhouettes, prints, or accessories add a whimsical kind of symmetry to the Renaissance city.
At Pitti Uomo SS26, the streets of Florence are not just a backdrop, but a key part of the narrative, old-world grandeur and new-world flair come together in a vibrant vision of menswear today
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Sleek pin-striped tailored suits and Italian loafers are on trend, |
Streetwear and tailoring live side by side in this season’s mix: cargo trousers, utility jackets, and oversized shapes meet structured short-sleeved suits and punchy patterns. Colours lean natural, with deep greens, warm browns, and off-whites grounding the more experimental pieces.
There’s a definite nod to Japanese minimalism, with technical fabrics, neat pleats, and clean lines adding a thoughtful quietness to even the boldest looks, an echo of Miyake’s influence.
Accessories are essential players, from sculptural sunglasses and exaggerated hats to statement watches and split-toe shoes. This isn’t fashion for fashion’s sake, it’s dressing with individual style, where every element contributes to a wider story.
At Pitti Uomo SS26, the streets of Florence are not just a backdrop, but a key part of the narrative: where old-world grandeur and new-world flair come together in a vibrant and evolving vision of menswear today.
