Thursday 8 June 2023

Sustainable Fashion Takes Centre Stage at Chloé

Gabriela Hearst melds classic design with concern for the planet creating her new collection. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM MODA. 

Chloé's Creative Director, Gabriela Hearst, understands the power of pieces that are crafted to last and with her latest Spring 2024 collection, she celebrates sustainability in the fashion industry, craftsmanship, and a commitment to leaving a positive impact on the planet, reports Antonio Visconti

Hearst creates stylish and elegant
collections while being aware of 
how they affect the environment.

The Spring 2024 collection at Chloé embraces notions of consciousness, circularity, and timelessness. These themes are interwoven throughout the aesthetic and technical aspects of the designs, creating a harmonious balance between style and sustainability. 

Hearst emphasizes that "reducing the Maison's carbon footprint and prioritizing materials that enable this are of the highest priority, without compromising on design and desirability."

"In the ever-rapidly moving world, I find solace in timeless design – pieces that are long-lasting in their execution and made to be atemporal with the hope of being passed down from one generation to the next," Hearst says. Her vision is clear: to create garments that not only captivate with their beauty but also embody a commitment to environmental responsibility.

Taking a closer look at the collection, there is a tapestry of eco-conscious choices and exquisite craftsmanship. For instance, one look features denim trousers made almost entirely from upcycled cotton, a shirt cut from deadstock cotton, and sunglasses crafted from recycled acetate. 

It's a testament to the power of putting the environment first without sacrificing beauty or elegance. Hearst remarks: "When I see look six, for instance, it gives me great pleasure to know that the decision to put the environment first didn't affect the beauty of the design but empowered it."

The collection delves into the natural world, expressing both its resilience and vulnerability through design choices. A turtleneck sweater in recycled cashmere combines with jeans made from recycled cotton and hemp denim, developed exclusively with Adriano Goldschmied. The incorporation of botanical motif guipure lace inserts in a lower-impact wool rib knit further accentuates the connection to nature. 

Gabriela Hearst aims to create garments that not only captivate with their beauty but also embody a commitment to environmental responsibility.

All rugged up in shearling,
denim and suede.
But sustainability doesn't stop at materials; it extends to the very essence of the garments. Some pieces cleverly play with appearances, inviting you to experience their texture. 

A light indigo jacket with a shearling collar and matching flared trousers may seem like denim or corduroy at first glance, but they are actually soft suede. 

A lace crew-neck sweater and skirt, too, deceive the eye, revealing a technical knit of contrasting matte cashmere and lustrous silk, adding depth and a feminine fluidity to the designs.

Chloé explores classic garments and heritage textiles, infusing them with a modern touch. The Maison introduces a bespoke cotton-wool tweed with multicolor mouliné threads, used for a trench coat and new renditions of the Penelope shoulder bag. 

A bow motif adorns bags, jewellery, shoes, and dresses. The marriage of jewellery-inspired embellishments with ready-to-wear techniques results in innovative designs, such as chains whip-stitched onto the lapels of jackets and overcoats or transformed into buttons on a cape coat.

Gabriela Hearst's interest in fashion history is evident in her exploration of the Chloé Archive. Inspired by the work of Karl Lagerfeld, who spent 25 years designing for the Maison, she distilled his vision into 28 looks for the Met Costume Institute exhibition 'Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty.' 

"I find solace in timeless design ~ pieces that are long-lasting and made to be atemporal with the hope of being passed down from one generation to the next."

Fluid femininity created with
wool knit and a botancial guipure
lace insert,
At this year's Met Gala, she paid homage to Lagerfeld by creating custom red-carpet creations, including a column dress for actress Maude Apatow. 

The Spring 2024 festive capsule draws inspiration from Lagerfeld's iconic designs, featuring wool crepe coats, dresses, bags, jewellery, and footwear adorned with arrow-shaped crystal embellishments.

Chloé's commitment to sustainability goes beyond the runway. The Maison incorporates eco-friendly materials into its products, such as recycled cotton, linen, acetate, and bio-based nylon. 

The Marcie bag, Penelope bag, Nama sneaker, and eyewear ranges all showcase the brand's dedication to a more conscious and responsible approach to fashion.

As the world of fashion continues to evolve, Chloé stands as an example of how good design and sustainability can coexist harmoniously.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Gabriela Hearst's Spring 2024 Collection 

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