Tradition and Modernity in Homme Plisse Issey Miyake's Spring/Summer 2024 Collection

Wearing a symphony of soft sage greens, a model walks in the new Homme Plisse Issey Miyake SS24 show in Paris at the Louvre's Museum of Decorative Arts. Cover picture and all photographs by Elli Ioannou.

The new Homme Plisse Issey Miyake collection.  showcases the Japanese brand's commitment to innovative design and impeccable craftsmanship. With its fresh color palette, imaginative silhouettes, and intricate pleating techniques, the Spring/Summer 2024 range, presented at Paris Men's Fashion Week, is a testament to a successful fusion of tradition and modernity, writes Antonio Visconti. Photographs by Elli Ioannou

The new garments in the SS24 collection float

above the runway, as the rest are unfurled

below from pleated paper.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, occupies the north wing of the Louvre Palace, known as the Pavillon de Marsan. With over one million objects in its collection, it is the largest museum of decorative arts in continental Europe.

Under the soaring, arcaded ceiling, Issey Miyake latest Homme Plisse men's collection was presented, captivating the audience with its innovative approach to design. 

Called Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter, the collection expresses Issey Miyake's originality, drawing inspiration from the art of pleating that has become synonymous with the label. The collection has an array of fresh and simple silhouettes, infused with a vibrant color palette. Embodying Issey Miyake's philosophy, with its combination of purity and technology, the new designs are well suited for quotidian life.

The Spring/Summer 2024 Paris show began with a dramatic spectacle: a giant roll of pleated paper cascaded down the museum gallery, unravelling to reveal meticulously wrapped garments. Accompanying this rather mesmerizing display, the design team emerged onto the catwalk, dressing the models in these carefully crafted pieces. By integrating elements of the pleating process into the scenography, the performance showcased the potential of this technology.

The new collection expresses Issey Miyake's originality, drawing inspiration from the art of pleating that has become synonymous with the label. 

The brilliantly-hued finale of the show, 

evoking the bright prints of the

Picturesque series.

One of the collection's highlights is the Monthly Colour series, which introduces a selection of hues each month. For this season, the palette offers a harmonious blend of soft and rich shades inspired by the natural world. These colors evoke the tones derived from dyeing organic materials, creating a visually striking ensemble.

The Rectangle series draws its name from the construction of the fabric when it is stretched out. However, when worn, it transforms into an asymmetrical silhouette, with the edges gracefully cascading along the contours of the body. 

The Picturesque range introduces a series of prints depicting naturalistic landscapes such as mountains, wind, and earth. Presented in simple triangular and round shapes, these prints are layered with translucent paints to accentuate the depth and boldness of the colors (see above). This interpretation of nature breathes life into the collection, embodying the spirit of artistic expression.

The Horizon Pleats demonstrates a breakthrough in the brand's pleating technique. By altering the direction of folds, the garments achieve horizontal pleats, infusing the silhouettes with a sense of movement and lightness. Years of experimentation have made this seemingly simple innovation possible, demonstrating the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries and evolving their technology.

Altering the direction of folds, the garments achieve horizontal pleats, infusing the silhouettes with a sense of movement and lightness

One of the standouts of the collections is the

Wing Coat with its graceful lines and 

voluminous silhouette.

Drawing inspiration from the wings of airplanes and birds, the Wing Coat (see at left) offers a visually captivating interpretation of flight. The back vent expands gracefully in the wind, imbuing the garment with a sense of dynamic motion. 

Crafted from a lightweight stretch fabric with a natural texture, these pieces exude an airy and comfortable fit, embodying Issey Miyake's commitment to merging form and function.

The "PL Ramie Shirt" series showcases a design reminiscent of a hood, with added layering at the shoulders. The smooth texture of the fabric enhances the draping effect, resulting in a luxurious feel. Available in three models and varying lengths, these shirts offer versatility for different occasions.

The Edge Ensemble and Edge Light Coat feature a wide accordion pleat that defines its aesthetic. Made from recycled polyester with a subtle sheen and material texture, that lends an ethereal touch to formal attire. Meanwhile, the coat is available in two new models: a trench coat and a hoodie jacket, providing contemporary and stylish options for outerwear enthusiasts.

Drawing inspiration from the wings of airplanes and birds, the Wing Coat offers a visually captivating interpretation of flight

The Edge Coat features a wide accordion 

pleat in recylcled polyester. 

The new footwear in the collection includesge, the Like Loafers line which offers a moccasin designed for comfort and versatility. 

Crafted from elasticated materials, these loafers blend casual and formal elements, making them very wearable. There are three color choices - beige, anthracite, and black.

The Homme Plisse Issey Miyake collection epitomizes the storied Japanese fashion house's dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and everyday functionality. 

By delving into the art of pleating and integrating it with cutting-edge design, this collection marks a significant milestone in the label's journey. 

With its vivid color palette, innovative shapes and thoughtful details, the collection invites wearers to embrace their individuality and embark on a sartorial journey that combines tradition and technology.