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Modern Roman princess: golden gladiator sandals and a dress decorated with wheat sheaves captures a sense of Rome's ancient and contemporary beauty and excess.
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Valentino’s evocative haute couture collection shown in Rome’s historic heart at Piazza Mignanelli was set against the scenic backdrop of Renaissance palazzi and the great column of the Madonna of the Immaculate Conception. The atmospheric show offered light, beauty and opulence amid the unkempt Eternal City's current woes of near bankruptcy and an internecine corruption scandal, reports Jeanne-Marie Cilento
ROMAN sylphs clad in floating black, red and golden gowns
adorned with filigree coronets and elaborate parures, strolled through
Valentino’s haute couture Autumn/Winter 2015 show at twilight in Piazza
Mignanelli. Artist Pietro Ruffo designed a wooden, modernist confection of the
Roman Forum as a backdrop to the majestic collection by Valentino's
award-winning creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierpaolo Piccioli |
"Rome is a very layered city, a very sinister city, it’s not a postcard,” Mr. Piccioli said. “And all the layers are still there: paganism, Catholicism, imperialism, baroque. It’s a balance that is entirely unique. We wanted to show Rome as living history.”
The beautiful spectacle in Piazza Mignanelli, along with exhibitions of Valentino creations in the 18th-century Casanatense library and the Bath of Diana, were held in a city wracked by the Rome Commune’s Mafia Capital scandal, struggles with bankruptcy and crumbling public services.
The corruption investigation has engulfed Rome's city hall, housed in a Renaissance palace designed by Michelangelo overlooking the ruins of the ancient Roman forum. The probe and the first wave of arrests have rattled Italy, suggesting organised crime is flourishing far beyond its base in Southern Italy.
Collapsing under 14 billion euros ($15.5 billion) of debt, Rome was only saved from complete bankruptcy by emergency state funds. Today, the ancient stony streets of the centro storico are dim, grimy and pot-holed, making a strong contrast to the sleek new Valentino store in Piazza Mignanelli, the brand’s largest retail space in the world at more than 20,000 square feet.
Pierpaolo Piccioli: "Rome is a very layered city, a very sinister city, it’s not a postcard. All the layers are still there: paganism, Catholicism, imperialism, baroque."
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Tilda Swinton and Mika attend the Valentino show in Rome |
This type of fashion extravaganza has not been in the city seen since Valentino Garavani, founder of the Valentino fashion house, celebrated its 45th anniversary in Rome in 2007 with a retrospective at the Museo dell’Ara Pacis, a ball at the Villa Borghese, and a dinner and fireworks at the Temple of Venus.
Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli became creative directors of the brand six years ears ago and have skillfully brought their own aesthetic to Valentino. “Everything is so global now, we think it’s very important to be personal,” Mr. Piccioli said. “We feel a social responsibility to this job,” Ms. Chiuri added. “We can’t talk only about clothes."
Artist Pietro Ruffo designed a wooden, modernist confection of the Roman Forum as a backdrop to the majestic collection by Valentino's joint creative directors
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A deep red gown in silk crepe
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Yet the designers have beautifully and skillfully captured
both the discipline and rigor of design in ancient Rome and the extravagant
folly of the 16th Century baroque in a collection full of chiaroscuro: strong
contrasts of light and dark all worn with flat
gladiator sandals and boots in black or gold, and golden necklaces, belts and
crowns and the motif of the eagle.
"We love Rome's beauty, its contrasts,
its multiple facets, its ability to change in time and to project itself into
the future,” explains Maria Grazia Chiuri. Long, draped
gowns in semi-transparent organza or shimmering velvet were mixed with
curvilinear wool capes with pure lines and brocade trim, and short dresses
created from intertwined golden feathers and wheat fronds. Cardinal Red organza dresses with
full skirts under sheer tops and sleeveless gladiatorial gowns of silk crepe
under embroidered gold leather.
Maria Grazie Chiuri: "We love Rome's beauty, its contrasts, its multiple facets, its ability to change in time and to project itself into the future.”
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The designers with actor Ben Stiller at the candlelit dinner at Villa Aurelia |
The eagle, the symbol of the Roman legions was used
throughout the collection. A painting Mr. Piccioli and Ms. Chiuri uncovered
while renovating their atelier in Rome was recreated on velvet. The great domed
ceiling of the Pantheon was embroidered almost three-dimensionally onto an
asymmetric caped minidress while other gowns were made in a brocade of mosaics.
After the dramatic show in Piazza Mignanelli close to the
Spanish Steps, the designers were given a standing ovation.
The great and the good of fashionable Rome along with guests
including Gwyneth Paltrow, Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson sat down to a
candle-lit, romantic dinner set under the trees of the gardens at the
17th-century Villa Aurelia. Looking out over the Eternal City, the lights are
still twinkling despite the dark tremors at its heart.