The Fire and the Phoenix: Gaurav Gupta’s Fashion Resurrection at Paris Haute Couture Week

Like the flames of a burning orange fire, this gown was a highlight of Gaurav Gupta's couture collection in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM

More than a fashion show, Gaurav Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2025 couture collection, Across the Flame, was a personal reflection on resilience, transformation, and the power of healing. Inspired by a near-fatal accident that profoundly altered his life, Gupta channeled his experience into a collection that fused spirituality, sculptural artistry, and innovative craftsmanship, writes Antonio Visconti.  Photography by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

Poet Navkirat Sodhi and designer

Gaurav Gupta at his Paris show.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

GAURAV Gupta's new collection, presented at Paris Haute Couture Week, blurred the boundaries between fashion and emotional catharsis, illustrating the couturier’s journey through pain, survival, and rebirth.

The Indian couturier's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year in Delhi. The accident, which left Sodhi with severe burns and required multiple surgeries, led both of them on a transformative spiritual journey. This experience became the foundation of Across the Flame, where themes of survival and transcendence were woven into each design.

From the moment the show opened, it was evident that this was no ordinary couture collection. Sodhi, walking barefoot and reciting a poem about their shared ordeal, set the tone for a presentation steeped in raw emotion. And the burning red scars from the fire were visible on her legs and arms beneath a diaphanous gown. 

Her presence, unguarded and powerful, reinforced the underlying narrative of resilience, while the atmospheric sound of tabla drums and a live sound bath deepened the sense of transcendence.

Gupta’s mastery of sculptural drapery took on new meaning in this collection. His signature structured silhouettes were amplified, evoking images of rising flames and celestial energy. The Twin Flame ensemble, a standout piece in ochre silk, wrapped around two identical models, symbolizing the unbreakable bond between Gupta and Sodhi. This use of duality was a recurring motif throughout the collection, representing the interplay between destruction and renewal.

Gaurav Gupta's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his life partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year

The glistening Twin Flame ensemble

symbolized the unbreakable bond 

between Sodhi and Gupta.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Another striking design was a gold jacquard ensemble featuring Sanskrit chants woven directly into the fabric. The text, which also appeared on a model’s face, embodied the mantras that guided Gupta and Sodhi through their healing process. 

The introduction of brocade, handwoven in Banaras, reinforced the connection to tradition, while innovative textile techniques elevated the collection beyond conventional couture.

Expanding on his previous explorations with metal casting, Gupta introduced sculptural breastplates in midnight blue. These pieces, reminiscent of armor, represented both vulnerability and protection.

 A lacquered half-mask, partially obscuring a model’s face, reinforced the notion of survival as both a physical and psychological battle. The interplay between fluid draping and rigid metallic elements created a compelling contrast, highlighting the duality of strength and fragility.

Gupta’s fearless approach to couture was further evident in his incorporation of denim: a first for his house. The Bucket Corset and Distressed Bucket Jacket challenged traditional notions of high fashion, demonstrating that even the most utilitarian fabrics can carry deep artistic significance. The pale blue denim bodices, sculpted with the same precision as his signature gowns, symbolized reinvention and the breaking of creative barriers.

An evocative midnight blue sculptural 

breastplate contrasted with the

dramatic silken draping.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Embellishments also played a critical role in adding depth and texture to the collection. Gupta employed intricate embroidery techniques, incorporating raffia, micro pearls, and ghungroo: tiny metallic bells traditionally used in Indian dance. 

These elements, used to accentuate movement and sound, reinforced the performative and meditative aspects of the show.

Jewelry pieces from the collection echoed the themes of transformation and protection. Designs such as the Chakra Earring, Infinity Ear Cuff, and Bahu Mudra Ring served as talismans, embodying the spiritual evolution that defined Gupta’s journey. 

The Tusk and Gaja Earring, inspired by mythological symbolism, further cemented the collection’s connection to cosmic energy and rebirth.

Beyond its aesthetic achievements, Across the Flame carried a powerful message of advocacy. By placing Sodhi at the forefront and embracing the visibility of her scars, Gupta used his platform to shed light on burn survivors and acid attack victims. In doing so, he transformed couture into a medium for social awareness, proving that fashion can be both visually striking and profoundly meaningful.

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal

The scintillating, silvery Astral Body

 gown that closed the Paris show.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou 

Closing Gaurav Gupta's Paris show was an astonishing crystallized gown with tiny, glittering sequins adorning the face and neck of the model. Gleaming and shimmering in the cavernous light, the silvery torso and head contrasted with a beautifully draped black skirt.

The designer has long been known for pushing the boundaries of couture, however this new collection marked a different chapter in his career, one that was as introspective as it was artistically ambitious. 

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal.

In an industry that often prioritizes spectacle over substance, Gupta’s presentation stood apart. By transforming personal tragedy into a visionary runway experience, he reaffirmed his place as one of couture’s most fearless voices. 

The show was not just about clothes, it was about the indomitable spirit of those who rise from the ashes, stronger than before. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from Gaurav Gupta's SS25 haute couture collection in Paris

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Haute Couture Week: African Textiles Take Centre Stage in Imane Ayissi’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

A highlight of Imane Ayissi's new collection in Paris was this brightly hued gown with raffia embellishments. 

Imane Ayissi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week, is a testament to the power of fabric as both a medium and a message. Weaving African heritage with an eclectic mix of cultural influences, he presented a vivid array of designs that celebrated tradition while embracing innovation. From intricately crafted gowns to strikingly tailored pieces, the Cameroon-born designer offered a vibrant exploration of history and the art of couture, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn

Brilliant colour and pattern

were cleverly combined to

create a soigne collection.

THIS SEASON, Imane Ayissi explored the cultural and symbolic significance of textiles, merging ancestral African craftsmanship with modern silhouettes. The result was a rich dialogue between past and present, tradition and modernity. The show was held in the opulent 19th salons of the Galerie Bourbon, once the home of Princess Marie Isabelle d'Orleans y Borbon, in Paris' tony 16th arrondissement.

Contrasting with these sumptuous surroundings was the designer's use of modest African materials, such as Kente cloth and raffia, yet elevating them to haute couture. Kente, a vibrant woven fabric with cultural roots in Ghana, was transformed into flowing halter dresses and structured kimono-inspired jackets. 

Meanwhile, raffia, a material Ayissi has long championed, appeared in bold hues of fuchsia and scarlet, adding texture and drama to fringed capes and oversized bows. These traditional elements were juxtaposed with luxurious satins and taffetas, highlighting Ayissi’s mastery of combining contrasting materials.

The new collection featured a series of standout looks that captured Ayissi’s ability to balance opulence with restraint. A brilliant pink bustier with a beautifully draped, patterned skirt, a soigne black gown with a well-fitted, long bodice suggested glamour and understated luxury, while a voluminous white gown with cascading folds showcased his talent for sculptural design. One particularly striking piece, a top made of interlocking floral appliqués (see above), demonstrated the intricate craftsmanship that defines his work.

The designer drew on African materials, such as Kente cloth and raffia, elevating them to haute couture

Raffia is one of the modest materials 

that has become a signature of Ayissi

 and central to his haute couture design

 

Ayissi also paid homage to African fashion history by reinterpreting the kaba dress, a garment with a complex colonial past. Originally imposed by European colonizers to cover African women’s bodies, the kaba has since evolved into a symbol of empowerment and cultural identity.

Ayissi’s modern take on the kaba incorporated elements of global fashion, drawing parallels with Asian kimonos, Korean hanbok, and European gowns from the 18th and early 20th centuries. This cross-cultural approach underscored the universality of design and the shared threads that connect seemingly disparate traditions.

"The starting point for this collection was my desire to revisit two key wardrobe items worn on the African continent: the boubou worn by men and women in most West and Central African countries. And the Kaba, a loose dress originally imposed on African women by European colonizers in the 19th century to cover their bodies and shapes and which became a kind of national clothing in Cameroon," explained the designer. 

Ayissi aimed to make the collection more than just a showcase of beautiful designs; it was a thoughtful exploration of the intersections between cultures. "It is these links, these relationships between elements of apparently extremely different cultures that fascinate me." the designer said. "So, I thought of this collection as a journey between Asia, Africa and Paris through time." This ethos was evident in his use of structural techniques inspired by Parisian couture, such as cinched waists reminiscent of Dior’s New Look, and draping that echoed the work of Jeanne Lanvin in the 1930s.

Ayissi’s modern take on the kaba melded Asian kimonos, Korean hanbok, and European gowns from the 18th and early 20th centuries.

Jpanese kimonos were one 

of the many inspirations for

Ayissi's latest collection

One of the collection’s most unique elements was Ayissi working with Chinese painter Wang Ying. Known for blending traditional Chinese techniques with Impressionist influences, Ying contributed hand-painted prints on silk and eco-friendly bamboo-based fabrics. These designs added a poetic layer to Ayissi’s collection, further reinforcing the narrative.

"This collection also involves the collaboration that I established with the painter Wang Ying, who is also a diplomat and who paints Parisian landscapes with a technique that relates to traditional Chinese painting but also impressionism," Ayissi said. "Wang Ying has produced prints on silk and new ecological fabrics based on Bamboo, but also paintings on fabric."

Ayissi’s journey from Cameroon to the pinnacle of Parisian fashion is quite an extraordinary tale itself. Born into a family of artists and athletes, he began his career as a dancer with the Ballet National du Cameroun before becoming involved with fashion. After moving to Paris in the early 1990s, he worked as a model for some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses, including Dior, Lanvin, and Givenchy. This experience gave him a unique perspective on the industry and fueled his passion for haute couture.

In 2020, Ayissi made history as the first Sub-Saharan designer invited to show on the official Paris Haute Couture schedule. His inclusion in the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode marked a significant milestone, not just for him but for African fashion as a whole. Ayissi’s work challenges stereotypes and demonstrates that haute couture is not confined to European traditions.

Imane Ayissi’s latest collection is a powerful reminder of fashion’s potential to transcend borders and celebrate differences

Designer Imane Ayissi takes his bow after his show in Paris

Ayissi’s latest collection is a powerful reminder of fashion’s potential to transcend borders and celebrate differences. By blending African techniques with contemporary design, he has created a body of work that feels both timeless and of the moment. His emphasis on sustainability, using eco-friendly fabrics and honoring artisanal craftsmanship, further positions him as a leader in the industry.

As the Paris show concluded, it was clear that Ayissi is not just designing clothes; he is crafting stories. Each piece in his collection is a chapter in a larger narrative about identity, heritage, and the interconnectedness of cultures. In an industry often criticized for its lack of inclusivity, Ayissi’s work stands as a beacon of progress and possibility. With this collection, Imane Ayissi has once again proven that couture is more than just a display of refined skill but a medium for dialogue, a celebration of our differences, and, above all, an art form that can unite us all.

A Flight of Fashion: Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture Collection at Paris’ Petit Palais

One of Celia Kritharioti's billowing pink confections at the Petit Palais in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM

The grandeur of the Petit Palais set the stage for Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show, an event that blended historic opulence with contemporary craftsmanship. The museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture, with its intricate moldings and sweeping staircases, provided a fittingly majestic backdrop for the Greek designer’s latest collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou 

Coco Rocha strikes a pose 

in one of Celia Kritharioti's 

pink,white and black creations

PARIS - The Petit Palais' luminous interiors and gilded details complemented Celia Kritharioti's new collection’s aesthetic, heightening the dramatic impact of each design as it made its way down the runway. 

The designer drew her inspiration from the flamingo, a creature often associated with poise and beauty. This theme was explored through a palette dominated by shades of pink, ranging from soft blush tones to vivid fuchsia, juxtaposed with black and white. 

Silhouettes in the collection reflected the graceful curvature of the flamingo’s form, with draped fabrics and structured tailoring working in harmony. Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured the movement of the bird’s plumage, while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic. The theme of duality ~ gentleness and boldness, fluidity and structure ~ was evident throughout the collection.

Kritharioti’s reputation for intricate craftsmanship was evident in the detailing of the garments. The collection featured oversized bows, delicate ribbons, and trompe l'œil effects, lending a whimsical touch to the designs. Handmade embroidery and meticulous embellishments highlighted the couture techniques for which the house is known.

The designer also played with layering and transparency, incorporating sheer fabrics that added depth and dimension to the pieces. Some gowns featured cascading ruffles, creating the illusion of movement, while others were adorned with beaded accents that shimmered under the runway lights. The balance of bold and delicate elements reinforced the collection’s overarching theme.

Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured movement while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic

Stella Maxwell models a gown 

with a voluminous skirt and 

fitted black contrasting bustier

Supermodels Coco Rocha, Alessandra Ambrosio, Irina Shayk and Stella Maxwell graced the runway, adding to the collection’s star power. Their commanding presence brought life to the designs, enhancing the dramatic silhouettes and intricate details. 

Coco Rocha, known for her dynamic runway performances, captivated the audience with her signature theatrical poses, while Ambrosio’s effortless elegance complemented the flowing, sculptural gowns.

Originally founded in 1906, Celia Kritharioti’s fashion house holds the distinction of being Greece’s oldest couture atelier. Since the designer has run the fashion house, it has built a reputation for creating bespoke couture garments that emphasize intricate detailing, luxurious fabrics, and exceptional craftsmanship. Under her direction, the label has maintained its dedication to handmade techniques, drawing inspiration from art, culture, and nature.

The designer has dressed an impressive roster of celebrities and royalty, further cementing her status in haute couture. Her creations have been worn by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, and Naomi Campbell, as well as European royalty including Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Charlene of Monaco. This legacy of dressing influential figures underscores the house’s reputation for delivering elegance and savoir faire. 

As mentioned, this season's show locale held at the Petit Palais did work particularly well with the collection. The setting’s ornate architecture and historical significance provided the right setting for Kritharioti’s designs, reinforcing the house’s connection to couture traditions. The runway show was accompanied by atmospheric lighting and music, creating an immersive experience for the audience.

Celia Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective 

This beautifully cut pink ensemble

added a soigne note of elegance

Kritharioti’s approach remained true to the house’s signature aesthetic with its emphasis on femininity, elegance and delicate embellishment which aligns with previous seasons and the label's design language. Her clients appreciate the consistency in execution and the clear thematic direction.

As haute couture continues to evolve, designers are faced with the challenge of balancing artistic expression with contemporary relevance. Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective through its flamingo-inspired aesthetic.

The collection’s dramatic use of color and volume resonated with haute couture’s emphasis on spectacle, yet its attention to detail and craftsmanship ensured it remained rooted in couture heritage. 

As the fashion landscape shifts towards innovation and adaptability, Kritharioti’s work serves as a reminder of the enduring appeal of meticulously crafted couture.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Celia Kritharioti's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris