The Fire and the Phoenix: Gaurav Gupta’s Fashion Resurrection at Paris Haute Couture Week

Like the flames of a burning orange fire, this gown was a highlight of Gaurav Gupta's couture collection in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM

More than a fashion show, Gaurav Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2025 couture collection, Across the Flame, was a personal reflection on resilience, transformation, and the power of healing. Inspired by a near-fatal accident that profoundly altered his life, Gupta channeled his experience into a collection that fused spirituality, sculptural artistry, and innovative craftsmanship, writes Antonio Visconti.  Photography by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

Poet Navkirat Sodhi and designer

Gaurav Gupta at his Paris show.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

GAURAV Gupta's new collection, presented at Paris Haute Couture Week, blurred the boundaries between fashion and emotional catharsis, illustrating the couturier’s journey through pain, survival, and rebirth.

The Indian couturier's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year in Delhi. The accident, which left Sodhi with severe burns and required multiple surgeries, led both of them on a transformative spiritual journey. This experience became the foundation of Across the Flame, where themes of survival and transcendence were woven into each design.

From the moment the show opened, it was evident that this was no ordinary couture collection. Sodhi, walking barefoot and reciting a poem about their shared ordeal, set the tone for a presentation steeped in raw emotion. And the burning red scars from the fire were visible on her legs and arms beneath a diaphanous gown. 

Her presence, unguarded and powerful, reinforced the underlying narrative of resilience, while the atmospheric sound of tabla drums and a live sound bath deepened the sense of transcendence.

Gupta’s mastery of sculptural drapery took on new meaning in this collection. His signature structured silhouettes were amplified, evoking images of rising flames and celestial energy. The Twin Flame ensemble, a standout piece in ochre silk, wrapped around two identical models, symbolizing the unbreakable bond between Gupta and Sodhi. This use of duality was a recurring motif throughout the collection, representing the interplay between destruction and renewal.

Gaurav Gupta's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his life partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year

The glistening Twin Flame ensemble

symbolized the unbreakable bond 

between Sodhi and Gupta.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Another striking design was a gold jacquard ensemble featuring Sanskrit chants woven directly into the fabric. The text, which also appeared on a model’s face, embodied the mantras that guided Gupta and Sodhi through their healing process. 

The introduction of brocade, handwoven in Banaras, reinforced the connection to tradition, while innovative textile techniques elevated the collection beyond conventional couture.

Expanding on his previous explorations with metal casting, Gupta introduced sculptural breastplates in midnight blue. These pieces, reminiscent of armor, represented both vulnerability and protection.

 A lacquered half-mask, partially obscuring a model’s face, reinforced the notion of survival as both a physical and psychological battle. The interplay between fluid draping and rigid metallic elements created a compelling contrast, highlighting the duality of strength and fragility.

Gupta’s fearless approach to couture was further evident in his incorporation of denim: a first for his house. The Bucket Corset and Distressed Bucket Jacket challenged traditional notions of high fashion, demonstrating that even the most utilitarian fabrics can carry deep artistic significance. The pale blue denim bodices, sculpted with the same precision as his signature gowns, symbolized reinvention and the breaking of creative barriers.

An evocative midnight blue sculptural 

breastplate contrasted with the

dramatic silken draping.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Embellishments also played a critical role in adding depth and texture to the collection. Gupta employed intricate embroidery techniques, incorporating raffia, micro pearls, and ghungroo: tiny metallic bells traditionally used in Indian dance. 

These elements, used to accentuate movement and sound, reinforced the performative and meditative aspects of the show.

Jewelry pieces from the collection echoed the themes of transformation and protection. Designs such as the Chakra Earring, Infinity Ear Cuff, and Bahu Mudra Ring served as talismans, embodying the spiritual evolution that defined Gupta’s journey. 

The Tusk and Gaja Earring, inspired by mythological symbolism, further cemented the collection’s connection to cosmic energy and rebirth.

Beyond its aesthetic achievements, Across the Flame carried a powerful message of advocacy. By placing Sodhi at the forefront and embracing the visibility of her scars, Gupta used his platform to shed light on burn survivors and acid attack victims. In doing so, he transformed couture into a medium for social awareness, proving that fashion can be both visually striking and profoundly meaningful.

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal

The scintillating, silvery Astral Body

 gown that closed the Paris show.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou 

Closing Gaurav Gupta's Paris show was an astonishing crystallized gown with tiny, glittering sequins adorning the face and neck of the model. Gleaming and shimmering in the cavernous light, the silvery torso and head contrasted with a beautifully draped black skirt.

The designer has long been known for pushing the boundaries of couture, however this new collection marked a different chapter in his career, one that was as introspective as it was artistically ambitious. 

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal.

In an industry that often prioritizes spectacle over substance, Gupta’s presentation stood apart. By transforming personal tragedy into a visionary runway experience, he reaffirmed his place as one of couture’s most fearless voices. 

The show was not just about clothes, it was about the indomitable spirit of those who rise from the ashes, stronger than before. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from Gaurav Gupta's SS25 haute couture collection in Paris

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou