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| The romanticism of Italian designer Luisa Beccaria's diaphanous creations in Milan. Photograph above and cover picture by Jay Zoo for DAM |
The courtyard of Palazzo Bovara set the stage for Luisa Beccaria’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week, a presentation that captured the essence of awakening and renewal, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Jay Zoo
DESIGNED with her daughter Lucilla Bonaccorsi, the new Luisa Beccaria collection. called Soul in Bloom, reflected the mother-and-daughter duo’s continued exploration of femininity through light, movement, and poetic detailing. Softness was a guiding thread, but never at the expense of structure. Dresses unfolded in layers of sheer fabrics, sometimes gauzy and transparent, other times enriched with textured jacquard or moiré, creating a balance between fragility and strength.
Color played like a painter’s palette, pastel blues and greens dissolving into blush pink, sunlit yellow, and the crispness of white, conveying the impression of a watercolor garden translated into cloth.
The collection embraced both ceremony and everyday elegance. Tailored pieces, such as corsets paired with trousers or cropped jackets worn with skirts, introduced a sharper edge, while airy shirtdresses, and Capri pants broadened the wardrobe’s reach. Evening gowns carried the most romantic charge, with embroidered tulle, diaphanous capes, and glimmers of sequins catching the light as models moved through the courtyard.
Accessories extended the dreamlike mood into practicality: sculptural belts shaped like petals, foldable hats designed for sunlit escapes, and artisanal shoes created in collaboration with Italian craftspeople. Each element reinforced the designers’ emphasis on beauty with purpose.
What distinguished this season was not spectacle but subtle conviction. Beccaria’s vision suggested that clothing can embody hope and gentleness even in turbulent times, serving as a reminder that fashion has the power to nurture as well as adorn.
Romanticism, often overlooked in today’s landscape, felt not nostalgic but quietly radical, reasserting itself as a language of resilience and grace.With Soul in Bloom, Beccaria reaffirmed her signature: clothing as poetry, as refuge, and as a gesture toward harmony.
Scroll down to see more highlights of the Luisa Beccaria SS26 collection in Milan
