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| One of Celia Kritharioti's billowing pink confections at the Petit Palais in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
The grandeur of the Petit Palais set the stage for Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show, an event that blended historic opulence with contemporary craftsmanship. The museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture, with its intricate moldings and sweeping staircases, provided a fittingly majestic backdrop for the Greek designer’s latest collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou
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Coco Rocha strikes a pose in one of Celia Kritharioti's pink,white and black creations |
The designer drew her inspiration from the flamingo, a creature often associated with poise and beauty. This theme was explored through a palette dominated by shades of pink, ranging from soft blush tones to vivid fuchsia, juxtaposed with black and white.
Silhouettes in the collection reflected the graceful curvature of the flamingo’s form, with draped fabrics and structured tailoring working in harmony. Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured the movement of the bird’s plumage, while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic. The theme of duality ~ gentleness and boldness, fluidity and structure ~ was evident throughout the collection.
Kritharioti’s reputation for intricate craftsmanship was evident in the detailing of the garments. The collection featured oversized bows, delicate ribbons, and trompe l'œil effects, lending a whimsical touch to the designs. Handmade embroidery and meticulous embellishments highlighted the couture techniques for which the house is known.
The designer also played with layering and transparency, incorporating sheer fabrics that added depth and dimension to the pieces. Some gowns featured cascading ruffles, creating the illusion of movement, while others were adorned with beaded accents that shimmered under the runway lights. The balance of bold and delicate elements reinforced the collection’s overarching theme.
Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured movement while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic
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Stella Maxwell models a gown with a voluminous skirt and fitted black contrasting bustier |
Coco Rocha, known for her dynamic runway performances, captivated the audience with her signature theatrical poses, while Ambrosio’s effortless elegance complemented the flowing, sculptural gowns.
Originally founded in 1906, Celia Kritharioti’s fashion house holds the distinction of being Greece’s oldest couture atelier. Since the designer has run the fashion house, it has built a reputation for creating bespoke couture garments that emphasize intricate detailing, luxurious fabrics, and exceptional craftsmanship. Under her direction, the label has maintained its dedication to handmade techniques, drawing inspiration from art, culture, and nature.
The designer has dressed an impressive roster of celebrities and royalty, further cementing her status in haute couture. Her creations have been worn by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, and Naomi Campbell, as well as European royalty including Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Charlene of Monaco. This legacy of dressing influential figures underscores the house’s reputation for delivering elegance and savoir faire.
As mentioned, this season's show locale held at the Petit Palais did work particularly well with the collection. The setting’s ornate architecture and historical significance provided the right setting for Kritharioti’s designs, reinforcing the house’s connection to couture traditions. The runway show was accompanied by atmospheric lighting and music, creating an immersive experience for the audience.
Celia Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective
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This beautifully cut pink ensemble added a soigne note of elegance |
Kritharioti’s approach remained true to the house’s signature aesthetic with its emphasis on femininity, elegance and delicate embellishment which aligns with previous seasons and the label's design language. Her clients appreciate the consistency in execution and the clear thematic direction.
As haute couture continues to evolve, designers are faced with the challenge of balancing artistic expression with contemporary relevance. Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective through its flamingo-inspired aesthetic.
The collection’s dramatic use of color and volume resonated with haute couture’s emphasis on spectacle, yet its attention to detail and craftsmanship ensured it remained rooted in couture heritage.
As the fashion
landscape shifts towards innovation and adaptability, Kritharioti’s work serves
as a reminder of the enduring appeal of meticulously crafted couture.
Scroll down to see more highlights from Celia Kritharioti's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris
