Thursday, 30 January 2025

The Fire and the Phoenix: Gaurav Gupta’s Fashion Resurrection at Paris Haute Couture Week

Like the flames of a burning orange fire, this gown was a highlight of Gaurav Gupta's couture collection in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM
More than a fashion show, Gaurav Gupta’s Spring/Summer 2025 couture collection, Across the Flame, was a personal reflection on resilience, transformation, and the power of healing. Inspired by a near-fatal accident that profoundly altered his life, Gupta channeled his experience into a collection that fused spirituality, sculptural artistry, and innovative craftsmanship, writes Antonio Visconti.  Photography by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

Poet Navkirat Sodhi and designer
Gaurav Gupta at his Paris show.
Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
GAURAV Gupta's new collection, presented at Paris Haute Couture Week, blurred the boundaries between fashion and emotional catharsis, illustrating the couturier’s journey through pain, survival, and rebirth.

The Indian couturier's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year in Delhi. The accident, which left Sodhi with severe burns and required multiple surgeries, led both of them on a transformative spiritual journey. This experience became the foundation of Across the Flame, where themes of survival and transcendence were woven into each design.

From the moment the show opened, it was evident that this was no ordinary couture collection. Sodhi, walking barefoot and reciting a poem about their shared ordeal, set the tone for a presentation steeped in raw emotion. And the burning red scars from the fire were visible on her legs and arms beneath a diaphanous gown. 

Her presence, unguarded and powerful, reinforced the underlying narrative of resilience, while the atmospheric sound of tabla drums and a live sound bath deepened the sense of transcendence.

Gupta’s mastery of sculptural drapery took on new meaning in this collection. His signature structured silhouettes were amplified, evoking images of rising flames and celestial energy. The Twin Flame ensemble, a standout piece in ochre silk, wrapped around two identical models, symbolizing the unbreakable bond between Gupta and Sodhi. This use of duality was a recurring motif throughout the collection, representing the interplay between destruction and renewal.

Gaurav Gupta's latest work was inspired by the traumatic fire he and his life partner, poet and performer Navkirat Sodhi, endured last year

The glistening Twin Flame ensemble
symbolized the unbreakable bond 
between Sodhi and Gupta.
Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Another striking design was a gold jacquard ensemble featuring Sanskrit chants woven directly into the fabric. The text, which also appeared on a model’s face, embodied the mantras that guided Gupta and Sodhi through their healing process. 

The introduction of brocade, handwoven in Banaras, reinforced the connection to tradition, while innovative textile techniques elevated the collection beyond conventional couture.

Expanding on his previous explorations with metal casting, Gupta introduced sculptural breastplates in midnight blue. These pieces, reminiscent of armor, represented both vulnerability and protection.

 A lacquered half-mask, partially obscuring a model’s face, reinforced the notion of survival as both a physical and psychological battle. The interplay between fluid draping and rigid metallic elements created a compelling contrast, highlighting the duality of strength and fragility.

Gupta’s fearless approach to couture was further evident in his incorporation of denim: a first for his house. The Bucket Corset and Distressed Bucket Jacket challenged traditional notions of high fashion, demonstrating that even the most utilitarian fabrics can carry deep artistic significance. The pale blue denim bodices, sculpted with the same precision as his signature gowns, symbolized reinvention and the breaking of creative barriers.

An evocative midnight blue sculptural 
breastplate contrasted with the
dramatic silken draping.
Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 
Embellishments also played a critical role in adding depth and texture to the collection. Gupta employed intricate embroidery techniques, incorporating raffia, micro pearls, and ghungroo: tiny metallic bells traditionally used in Indian dance. 

These elements, used to accentuate movement and sound, reinforced the performative and meditative aspects of the show.

Jewelry pieces from the collection echoed the themes of transformation and protection. Designs such as the Chakra EarringInfinity Ear Cuff, and Bahu Mudra Ring served as talismans, embodying the spiritual evolution that defined Gupta’s journey. 

The Tusk and Gaja Earring, inspired by mythological symbolism, further cemented the collection’s connection to cosmic energy and rebirth.

Beyond its aesthetic achievements, Across the Flame carried a powerful message of advocacy. By placing Sodhi at the forefront and embracing the visibility of her scars, Gupta used his platform to shed light on burn survivors and acid attack victims. In doing so, he transformed couture into a medium for social awareness, proving that fashion can be both visually striking and profoundly meaningful.

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal

The scintillating, silvery Astral Body
 gown that closed the Paris show.
Photograph: Elli Ioannou 
Closing Gaurav Gupta's Paris show was an astonishing crystallized gown with tiny, glittering sequins adorning the face and neck of the model. Gleaming and shimmering in the cavernous light, the silvery torso and head contrasted with a beautifully draped black skirt.

The designer has long been known for pushing the boundaries of couture, however this new collection marked a different chapter in his career, one that was as introspective as it was artistically ambitious. 

Through sculptural silhouettes, symbolic designs, and his commitment to storytelling, Gupta created a collection that transcended fashion to become a testament to survival, love, and renewal.

In an industry that often prioritizes spectacle over substance, Gupta’s presentation stood apart. By transforming personal tragedy into a visionary runway experience, he reaffirmed his place as one of couture’s most fearless voices. 

The show was not just about clothes, it was about the indomitable spirit of those who rise from the ashes, stronger than before. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from Gaurav Gupta's SS25 haute couture collection in Paris

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Gaurav Gupta, Across the Flame, Paris Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 2025. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

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Wednesday, 29 January 2025

Paris Haute Couture Week: African Textiles Take Centre Stage in Imane Ayissi’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

A highlight of Imane Ayissi's new collection in Paris was this brightly hued gown with raffia embellishments. 
Imane Ayissi’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week, is a testament to the power of fabric as both a medium and a message. Weaving African heritage with an eclectic mix of cultural influences, he presented a vivid array of designs that celebrated tradition while embracing innovation. From intricately crafted gowns to strikingly tailored pieces, the Cameroon-born designer offered a vibrant exploration of history and the art of couture, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn

Brilliant colour and pattern
were cleverly combined to
create a soigne collection.
THIS SEASON, Imane Ayissi explored the cultural and symbolic significance of textiles, merging ancestral African craftsmanship with modern silhouettes. The result was a rich dialogue between past and present, tradition and modernity. The show was held in the opulent 19th salons of the Galerie Bourbon, once the home of Princess Marie Isabelle d'Orleans y Borbon, in Paris' tony 16th arrondissement.

Contrasting with these sumptuous surroundings was the designer's use of modest African materials, such as Kente cloth and raffia, yet elevating them to haute couture. Kente, a vibrant woven fabric with cultural roots in Ghana, was transformed into flowing halter dresses and structured kimono-inspired jackets. 

Meanwhile, raffia, a material Ayissi has long championed, appeared in bold hues of fuchsia and scarlet, adding texture and drama to fringed capes and oversized bows. These traditional elements were juxtaposed with luxurious satins and taffetas, highlighting Ayissi’s mastery of combining contrasting materials.

The new collection featured a series of standout looks that captured Ayissi’s ability to balance opulence with restraint. A brilliant pink bustier with a beautifully draped, patterned skirt, a soigne black gown with a well-fitted, long bodice suggested glamour and understated luxury, while a voluminous white gown with cascading folds showcased his talent for sculptural design. One particularly striking piece, a top made of interlocking floral appliqués (see above), demonstrated the intricate craftsmanship that defines his work.

The designer drew on African materials, such as Kente cloth and raffia, elevating them to haute couture

Raffia is one of the modest materials 
that has become a signature of Ayissi
 and central to his haute couture design
 
Ayissi also paid homage to African fashion history by reinterpreting the kaba dress, a garment with a complex colonial past. Originally imposed by European colonizers to cover African women’s bodies, the kaba has since evolved into a symbol of empowerment and cultural identity.

Ayissi’s modern take on the kaba incorporated elements of global fashion, drawing parallels with Asian kimonos, Korean hanbok, and European gowns from the 18th and early 20th centuries. This cross-cultural approach underscored the universality of design and the shared threads that connect seemingly disparate traditions.

"The starting point for this collection was my desire to revisit two key wardrobe items worn on the African continent: the boubou worn by men and women in most West and Central African countries. And the Kaba, a loose dress originally imposed on African women by European colonizers in the 19th century to cover their bodies and shapes and which became a kind of national clothing in Cameroon," explained the designer. 

Ayissi aimed to make the collection more than just a showcase of beautiful designs; it was a thoughtful exploration of the intersections between cultures. "It is these links, these relationships between elements of apparently extremely different cultures that fascinate me." the designer said. "So, I thought of this collection as a journey between Asia, Africa and Paris through time." This ethos was evident in his use of structural techniques inspired by Parisian couture, such as cinched waists reminiscent of Dior’s New Look, and draping that echoed the work of Jeanne Lanvin in the 1930s.

Ayissi’s modern take on the kaba melded Asian kimonos, Korean hanbok, and European gowns from the 18th and early 20th centuries.

Jpanese kimonos were one 
of the many inspirations for
Ayissi's latest collection
One of the collection’s most unique elements was Ayissi working with Chinese painter Wang Ying. Known for blending traditional Chinese techniques with Impressionist influences, Ying contributed hand-painted prints on silk and eco-friendly bamboo-based fabrics. These designs added a poetic layer to Ayissi’s collection, further reinforcing the narrative.

"This collection also involves the collaboration that I established with the painter Wang Ying, who is also a diplomat and who paints Parisian landscapes with a technique that relates to traditional Chinese painting but also impressionism," Ayissi said. "Wang Ying has produced prints on silk and new ecological fabrics based on Bamboo, but also paintings on fabric."

Ayissi’s journey from Cameroon to the pinnacle of Parisian fashion is quite an extraordinary tale itself. Born into a family of artists and athletes, he began his career as a dancer with the Ballet National du Cameroun before becoming involved with fashion. After moving to Paris in the early 1990s, he worked as a model for some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses, including Dior, Lanvin, and Givenchy. This experience gave him a unique perspective on the industry and fueled his passion for haute couture.

In 2020, Ayissi made history as the first Sub-Saharan designer invited to show on the official Paris Haute Couture schedule. His inclusion in the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode marked a significant milestone, not just for him but for African fashion as a whole. Ayissi’s work challenges stereotypes and demonstrates that haute couture is not confined to European traditions.

Imane Ayissi’s latest collection is a powerful reminder of fashion’s potential to transcend borders and celebrate differences

Designer Imane Ayissi takes his bow after his show in Paris
Ayissi’s latest collection is a powerful reminder of fashion’s potential to transcend borders and celebrate differences. By blending African techniques with contemporary design, he has created a body of work that feels both timeless and of the moment. His emphasis on sustainability, using eco-friendly fabrics and honoring artisanal craftsmanship, further positions him as a leader in the industry.

As the Paris show concluded, it was clear that Ayissi is not just designing clothes; he is crafting stories. Each piece in his collection is a chapter in a larger narrative about identity, heritage, and the interconnectedness of cultures. In an industry often criticized for its lack of inclusivity, Ayissi’s work stands as a beacon of progress and possibility. With this collection, Imane Ayissi has once again proven that couture is more than just a display of refined skill but a medium for dialogue, a celebration of our differences, and, above all, an art form that can unite us all.

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A Flight of Fashion: Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture Collection at Paris’ Petit Palais

One of Celia Kritharioti's billowing pink confections at the Petit Palais in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM


The grandeur of the Petit Palais set the stage for Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show, an event that blended historic opulence with contemporary craftsmanship. The museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture, with its intricate moldings and sweeping staircases, provided a fittingly majestic backdrop for the Greek designer’s latest collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou 

Coco Rocha strikes a pose 
in one of Celia Kritharioti's 
pink,white and black creations
PARIS - The Petit Palais' luminous interiors and gilded details complemented Celia Kritharioti's new collection’s aesthetic, heightening the dramatic impact of each design as it made its way down the runway. 

The designer drew her inspiration from the flamingo, a creature often associated with poise and beauty. This theme was explored through a palette dominated by shades of pink, ranging from soft blush tones to vivid fuchsia, juxtaposed with black and white. 

Silhouettes in the collection reflected the graceful curvature of the flamingo’s form, with draped fabrics and structured tailoring working in harmony. Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured the movement of the bird’s plumage, while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic. The theme of duality ~ gentleness and boldness, fluidity and structure ~ was evident throughout the collection.

Kritharioti’s reputation for intricate craftsmanship was evident in the detailing of the garments. The collection featured oversized bows, delicate ribbons, and trompe l'œil effects, lending a whimsical touch to the designs. Handmade embroidery and meticulous embellishments highlighted the couture techniques for which the house is known.

The designer also played with layering and transparency, incorporating sheer fabrics that added depth and dimension to the pieces. Some gowns featured cascading ruffles, creating the illusion of movement, while others were adorned with beaded accents that shimmered under the runway lights. The balance of bold and delicate elements reinforced the collection’s overarching theme.

Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured movement while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic

Stella Maxwell models a gown 
with a voluminous skirt and 
fitted black contrasting bustier
Supermodels Coco Rocha, Alessandra Ambrosio, Irina Shayk and Stella Maxwell graced the runway, adding to the collection’s star power. Their commanding presence brought life to the designs, enhancing the dramatic silhouettes and intricate details. 

Coco Rocha, known for her dynamic runway performances, captivated the audience with her signature theatrical poses, while Ambrosio’s effortless elegance complemented the flowing, sculptural gowns.

Originally founded in 1906, Celia Kritharioti’s fashion house holds the distinction of being Greece’s oldest couture atelier. Since the designer has run the fashion house, it has built a reputation for creating bespoke couture garments that emphasize intricate detailing, luxurious fabrics, and exceptional craftsmanship. Under her direction, the label has maintained its dedication to handmade techniques, drawing inspiration from art, culture, and nature.

The designer has dressed an impressive roster of celebrities and royalty, further cementing her status in haute couture. Her creations have been worn by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, and Naomi Campbell, as well as European royalty including Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Charlene of Monaco. This legacy of dressing influential figures underscores the house’s reputation for delivering elegance and savoir faire. 

As mentioned, this season's show locale held at the Petit Palais did work particularly well with the collection. The setting’s ornate architecture and historical significance provided the right setting for Kritharioti’s designs, reinforcing the house’s connection to couture traditions. The runway show was accompanied by atmospheric lighting and music, creating an immersive experience for the audience.

Celia Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective 

This beautifully cut pink ensemble
added a soigne note of elegance

Kritharioti’s approach remained true to the house’s signature aesthetic with its emphasis on femininity, elegance and delicate embellishment which aligns with previous seasons and the label's design language. Her clients appreciate the consistency in execution and the clear thematic direction.

As haute couture continues to evolve, designers are faced with the challenge of balancing artistic expression with contemporary relevance. Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective through its flamingo-inspired aesthetic.

The collection’s dramatic use of color and volume resonated with haute couture’s emphasis on spectacle, yet its attention to detail and craftsmanship ensured it remained rooted in couture heritage. 

As the fashion landscape shifts towards innovation and adaptability, Kritharioti’s work serves as a reminder of the enduring appeal of meticulously crafted couture.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Celia Kritharioti's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris





















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Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Paris Haute Couture: Golden Threads and Thai Silks: Ronald van der Kemp’s Conscious Couture in the Age of Consequence

La Reine Soleil, the first look in the SS25 RVDK couture collection in Paris, created from hand-woven Thai golden silk jacquard. Photograph: Jay Zoo

While Paris basked in the luminous light of late afternoon winter sun, at the Hôtel d’Avaray, the gilded salons of the 18th-century residence, were being readied for Ronald van der Kemp to unveil his Spring/Summer 2025 couture collection. The show, titled Let the Sun Shine In, was an upbeat ode to the designer's unique approach to rethinking couture from the ground up, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Jay Zoo 

A sculptural gown created from Royal Thai
handwoven fabrics, was last look in the show. 

HIDDEN behind great wooden doors in Paris’s 7th arrondissement, the historic Hôtel d'Avaray as a location underscored Ronald van der Kemp's mix of the regal and the radical. Designed in the early 1700s by Jean-Baptiste Leroux for the Marquis d’Avaray, the hôtel particulier has since passed from aristocratic ownership to diplomatic function. 

Today, it hosts Jan Versteeg, the Dutch ambassador, and on this occasion, a designer widely credited with redefining what couture can be in the age of sustainability. Van der Kemp founded RVDK in 2014 with a mission to challenge the fashion system’s appetite for excess. 

The Dutch fashion house's signature, unique creations are crafted from vintage stock, surplus textiles, rescued materials, and artisanal fragments. His collections are presented as “wardrobes” ~ modular, collectible capsules of couture meant to last beyond seasons or trends. Wardrobe 21, as this edition was titled, extended his philosophy with a twist: a series of key looks featuring handwoven Thai silks unearthed from archival collections.

Ronald van der Kemp's signature, unique creations are crafted from vintage stock, surplus textiles, rescued materials, and artisanal fragments

In brilliant hues, a ruffled silk,
tartan check mini dress.  
The Thai fabrics became a pivot around which much of the collection revolved. Introduced through a collaboration with model Thayna Soares, they brought both visual drama and cultural depth. Emerald greens, sunset golds, lotus pinks, and a particularly vibrant yellow velvet made their way into gowns, corsets, and structured jackets. 

In one of the standout opening looks, a tiered gown in gilded jacquard fanned upward like solar flares (see main picture) evoking both celestial grandeur and the layered elegance of traditional Thai dress in a contemporary way. 

Van der Kemp used the silks to make subtle nods to Thai motifs, swirling lines, serpentine motifs and quilting which appeared throughout the collection, blending into a broader language of recycled opulence. What might have become pastiche in lesser hands instead offered a genuine conversation between cultures, eras, and materials.

The handmade remained at the core of every look. A checkerboard skirt emerged from a vintage Kuba wall hanging; a black coat with voluminous, wing-like sleeves was embroidered with over 3,000 beads; and a form-fitting bustier, reworked from a decommissioned boat flag, was studded with nautical chains and charms. 

Long committed fully to sustainable production, RVDK garments are made in the Netherlands, often in collaboration with small ateliers and craftspeople 

Soigne gown of sequined
leopard print with lace and
leather inserts. 
In another ensemble, remnants of upcycled python formed a dramatic shoulder accent, while elsewhere, mousseline patchwork and silk jacquard stripes offered rich tactile variety. This was a collection that resisted minimalism but never descended into being overly baroque. Each piece was carefully composed and formed like a three-dimensional collage.

Van der Kemp’s work is underpinned by rigor: behind every ruffle, twist, and beaded flourish is an intentional design. Though the collection offered cohesion in palette and material, each garment felt like an individual character, with its own history, purpose, and attitude.

The presentation itself matched the intimacy of the garments. The wood-panelled, gilded green and gold salons were the atmospheric backdrop to the show as the models moving through the audience at intimate range, allowing guests to study the embroidery, silhouette, and surface. 

As a couturier, Van der Kemp has long committed fully to sustainable production, not as a marketing strategy, but as an operational principle. All garments are made in the Netherlands, often in collaboration with small ateliers and craftspeople. 

The new collection once again proved that couture’s future can be created from forgotten fabrics, salvaged embellishments and fine artisan handwork

This elegant pink gown was created
 from lingerie corsetry and finished 
with lace and scalloped edging.
 
Materials are sourced not from new orders but from forgotten or discarded inventories: couture remnants, leather offcuts from luxury bagmakers, vintage feathers, beads from abandoned projects. Even the jewelry and embellishments are reworked from elements such as antique buttons, Thai market finds, and plastic bottles.

It’s a philosophy that doesn’t just question fashion’s excess; it actively offers alternatives. In a world where “sustainability” has become a catch-all term, Van der Kemp remains committed to the slow, sometimes inconvenient, but undeniably rewarding process of transformation. For the designer, the goal is not to make fashion that looks eco-friendly; it’s to make fashion that looks extraordinary and happens to be ethical.

His background certainly gives him the credentials for this couture creation. Before launching his own label, Van der Kemp spent more than two decades designing for houses like Celine, Guy Laroche, and Bill Blass. 

The polish and discipline of those years is visible in every RVDK garment, but now it’s filtered through his own vision, one where glamour doesn’t require newness, and where imperfection is embraced rather than concealed.

For the designer, the goal is not to make couture that looks eco-friendly, it’s to make fashion that looks extraordinary and happens to be ethical

Golden silk jacquard was
used to create this 
corseted, column dress. 
As the show concluded, with models forming a procession through the handsome rooms, it became clear that Let the Sun Shine In was more than just a seasonal offering. It was a reminder that fashion’s most radical gestures can come in the form of volume and spectacle and equally from restraint, integrity, and devotion to craft.

Ronald van der Kemp’s creative ethos is not nostalgic, though it often draws on the visual richness of past decades. Nor is it futurist, despite its progressive ideals. It sits somewhere between, a space where history, sustainability, and couture technique intersect to offer something rare: clothes that tell stories not just of style, but of values. 

With Wardrobe 21, Ronald van der Kemp once again proved that couture’s future can be created from forgotten fabrics, salvaged embellishments, and fine artisan handwork. 

His collection offered the kind of glamour that is embedded in care and conviction. His silhouettes are bold, his surfaces rich, but it is the underlying philosophy that gives each piece its lasting resonance. In Ronald van der Kemp’s world, beauty is not manufactured; it is rediscovered, reframed, and reimagined. And in that quiet act of metamorphosis, couture finds both renewal and relevance.

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