Tuesday, 8 July 2025

A-Listers and Umbrellas: Star Power and Sharp Style at Celine’s Spring/Summer 2026 Show in Paris

Naomi Watts in gingham and black leather at the Celine SS26 show in Paris. 
Despite gloomy skies and a steady downpour, the energy around Celine’s Paris headquarters was anything but dreary as fashion and celebrity guests arrived to witness Michael Rider’s first collection for the house. Set in the brand’s historic 17th-century atelier, the show marked the beginning of a new chapter one that unfolded with precision, confidence, and an impressive guest list, writes Ambrogio de Lauro

V from the K-Pop band BTS was one
of the stars in the Celine front row. 
AMONG the first to cause a stir at the debut of Michael Rider's Celine show in Paris, was Kim Taehyung, known as V, of BTS, who arrived early, drawing excited crowds. His appearance, marking his return to the spotlight, set the tone for an event that mixed anticipation with star-studded glamour. Fellow Korean actors Park Bo-gum and Suzy Bae joined him shortly after, creating a flashpoint for the camera-wielding scrum gathered at the venue’s entrance. 

Inside the rain-slicked courtyard, familiar faces took their places on the sandstone-colored benches. Naomi Watts arrived dressed in a polished yet playful look that matched the tone of the collection ~ structured, refined, and with unexpected flourishes. 

Canadian actors Emily Hampshire and Dan Levy shared a front-row moment, clearly enjoying the scene, while Lily McInerny and rising French-Canadian talent Théodore Pellerin brought a fresh edge to the guest lineup. Industry veterans and tastemakers, including Alanis Morissette, Kristen Wiig, Dev Hynes, Jerrod Carmichael, and design heavyweights like Jonathan Anderson and Raf Simons, rounded out the crowd. 

The collection itself reflected a thoughtful evolution of the house’s past codes. Rider introduced a blend of tailoring, athletic references, and tactile playfulness, merging high-gloss polish with offbeat flourishes. Men’s and women’s pieces were shown together, with close-fitting silhouettes, sculptural shapes, and statement accessories that emphasized Celine’s new direction. 

Bags, jewellery, and sporty classics were reimagined with a touch of wit and a nod to function, underscoring the designer’s instinct for balancing commercial appeal with sharp design. Though the rain soaked the sandstone and streaked the silken canopy above, it did little to dampen the excitement. With a strong debut and a room full of influential eyes watching closely, Rider made it clear that Celine is entering a vibrant new phase, one where heritage meets bold vision of renewal. 

Scroll down to see more guests at the Celine Spring/Summer show in Paris 





































































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From Holy Week to Paris Haute Couture: Juana Martín’s Sacred Symbols and Sculptural Lines

Spanish designer Juana Martin was inspired by Andalusian Holy Week for her latest presentation at Paris Haute Couture. Photograph (above) by Jay Zoo and cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn for DAM.


Juana Martin's new collection, Fervor, delivers a couture story that bridges the sacred and the contemporary, weaving the emotional resonance of Andalusian Holy Week into a collection of striking, modern silhouettes. Unveiled at the Sorbonne during Paris Haute Couture Week, the Autumn/Winter 2025 presentation showcases her mastery of storytelling and sculptural forms to evoke devotion, ritual, and communal identity. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Andrea Heinsohn and Jay Zoo

Draped and shimmering, diaphanous 
fabrics lightened the religious 
iconography. Photo: Andrea Heinsohn
ON a luminous Paris summer afternoon, all was dim and solemn inside the vaulted Hall Saint-Jacques at the Sorbonne, where Juana Martín revealed Fervor, a couture narrative that told the story of an emotive and important part of Andalusian life. 

Presented as part of Haute Couture Week, the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection marked the Cordoban designer’s seventh appearance in Paris, an achievement that continues to cement her as a defining Spanish voice on the world stage. 

As the only Spanish woman invited onto the official Paris calendar, Martín has become a cultural ambassador, transforming Andalusian craftsmanship into high artistry. Her latest collection distils the spirit of Holy Week into a modern couture spectacle, blending ritual, symbolism, and sculptural design. 

The designer's new work reimagines tradition through dramatic silhouettes, and embellishment, from rope iconography to petal-covered gowns. Supported by her long-time creative team and regional artisans and presented on the same day she received a major national design honour, Fervor marks a new chapter in Martín’s rise in fashion.

With the new collection, she turns to one of the most potent traditions of southern Spain: the intense communal spirituality that surrounds Holy Week. Rather than adopting its imagery lietrally, Martín reframes its atmosphere, its hushed anticipation, its processional dignity, its glowing symbols of devotion, into sculptural silhouettes that feel both reverent and otherworldly. She channels not simply a religious event, but the collective emotion it stirs within Andalusian communities: a blend of passion, unity, and cultural pride.

The backbone of the collection is black ruán, a fabric steeped in ritual significance. In Martín’s hands, its depth becomes a study in dramatic couture geometry. Sweeping cloaks, elongated columnar gowns and sinuous drapes evoke the presence of penitents moving through candlelit streets. A monochrome discipline underscores the house’s signature duality, while unexpected textures and gleaming accents give the pieces a ceremonial luminosity. Here, jewellery becomes architecture: sharp, radiant, reminiscent of the ornate adornments seen on Christs and Virgins carried through Andalusian towns.

Instead of adopting Holy Week's imagery literally, Martín reframes its atmosphere, its hushed anticipation, its processional dignity, its glowing symbols of devotion, into sculptural silhouettes that feel both reverent and daring

Cleverly entwined rope formed
a striking Christ figure as part
of one of the key creations. 
One of the most striking moments arrived with the opening look: a stark, commanding silhouette created by a rope-sculpted figure of Christ, a powerful reinterpretation of a sacred icon. Moments later, a model appeared as though submerged beneath a cascade of petals, echoing the showers that fall from balconies during processions. 

Other designs shimmered with handmade golden flourishes and towering headpieces that nodded to centuries of goldsmithing tradition. Each look was elevated further by Francesca Bellavita’s artisanal Italian footwear, sculptural, and in harmony with Martín’s solemn palette.

Backstage, the designer’s long-standing collaborators, Rafael Maqueda and Menchu Benítez, shaped hair and makeup with a precision that heightened the collection’s dramatic spirituality. Meanwhile, Málaga de Moda and Plenitas continued their partnership with the house, championing artisans from Martín’s home region and reinforcing the collection’s commitment to Andalusian craftsmanship.

Only hours before the show, Martín learned she had been awarded the 2025 National Fashion Design Award, a striking parallel to the emotional intensity of the collection itself. It was a moment that underscored her growing influence and her dedication to elevating Spanish culture. Founded in 1999, the label is entering a phase of expansion with a new Miami boutique and an exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum slated for late 2026.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Juana Martin's AW25 collection in Paris

Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025. Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo








Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

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