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| Spanish designer Juana Martin was inspired by Andalusian Holy Week for her latest presentation at Paris Haute Couture. Photograph (above) by Jay Zoo and cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn for DAM. |
Juana Martin's new collection, Fervor, delivers a couture story that
bridges the sacred and the contemporary, weaving the emotional resonance of
Andalusian Holy Week into a collection of striking, modern silhouettes. Unveiled
at the Sorbonne during Paris Haute Couture Week, the Autumn/Winter 2025
presentation showcases her mastery of storytelling and sculptural forms to evoke devotion, ritual, and
communal identity. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Andrea Heinsohn and Jay Zoo.
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Draped and shimmering, diaphanous fabrics lightened the religious iconography. Photo: Andrea Heinsohn |
ON a luminous Paris summer afternoon, all was dim and solemn inside the vaulted Hall Saint-Jacques at the Sorbonne, where Juana Martín revealed
Fervor, a couture narrative that told the story of an emotive and important part of Andalusian life.
Presented as part of Haute Couture Week, the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection marked the Cordoban designer’s seventh appearance in Paris, an achievement that continues to cement her as a defining Spanish voice on the world stage.
As the only Spanish woman invited onto the official Paris calendar, Martín has become a cultural ambassador, transforming Andalusian craftsmanship into high artistry. Her latest collection distils the spirit of Holy Week into a modern couture spectacle, blending ritual,
symbolism, and sculptural design.
The designer's new work reimagines tradition through dramatic
silhouettes, and embellishment, from rope iconography to petal-covered
gowns. Supported by her long-time creative team and regional artisans and presented on the same day she received a major national design honour, Fervor
marks a new chapter in Martín’s rise in fashion.
With the new collection, she turns to one of the most potent traditions of southern Spain: the intense communal spirituality that
surrounds Holy Week. Rather than adopting its imagery lietrally, Martín reframes
its atmosphere, its hushed anticipation, its processional dignity, its glowing
symbols of devotion, into sculptural silhouettes that feel both reverent and otherworldly. She channels not simply a religious event, but the collective emotion
it stirs within Andalusian communities: a blend of passion, unity, and cultural
pride.
The backbone of the collection is black ruán, a fabric
steeped in ritual significance. In Martín’s hands, its depth becomes a study in
dramatic couture geometry. Sweeping cloaks, elongated columnar gowns and sinuous
drapes evoke the presence of penitents moving through candlelit streets. A
monochrome discipline underscores the house’s signature duality, while
unexpected textures and gleaming accents give the pieces a ceremonial
luminosity. Here, jewellery becomes architecture: sharp, radiant, reminiscent
of the ornate adornments seen on Christs and Virgins carried through Andalusian
towns.
Instead of adopting Holy Week's imagery literally, Martín reframes its atmosphere, its hushed anticipation, its processional dignity, its glowing symbols of devotion, into sculptural silhouettes that feel both reverent and daring
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Cleverly entwined rope formed a striking Christ figure as part of one of the key creations. |
One of the most striking moments arrived with the opening
look: a stark, commanding silhouette created by a rope-sculpted figure of Christ,
a powerful reinterpretation of a sacred icon. Moments later, a model appeared as though submerged beneath
a cascade of petals, echoing the showers that fall from balconies during
processions.
Other designs shimmered with handmade golden flourishes and
towering headpieces that nodded to centuries of goldsmithing tradition. Each
look was elevated further by Francesca Bellavita’s artisanal Italian footwear, sculptural, and in harmony with Martín’s
solemn palette.
Backstage, the designer’s long-standing collaborators,
Rafael Maqueda and Menchu Benítez, shaped hair and makeup with a precision that
heightened the collection’s dramatic spirituality. Meanwhile, Málaga de Moda
and Plenitas continued their partnership with the house, championing artisans
from Martín’s home region and reinforcing the collection’s commitment to
Andalusian craftsmanship.
Only hours before the show, Martín learned she had been
awarded the 2025 National Fashion Design Award, a striking parallel to the
emotional intensity of the collection itself. It was a moment that underscored
her growing influence and her dedication to elevating Spanish culture. Founded in 1999, the label is entering a phase of expansion with a new Miami boutique and an exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan
Museum slated for late 2026.
Scroll down to see more highlights from Juana Martin's AW25 collection in Paris
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025. Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
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| Juana Martin, Fervor, Autumn-Winter 2025, Paris Haute Couture. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
