Paris Fashion Week: Caroline Hu Redefines Romance on the Runway. Photography by Brittany Scott

One of Caroline Hu's creations for her SS26 collection in Paris. Photography Brittany Scott. Cover picture of Anrealage by Jay Zoo. 

CAROLINE Hu has always thrived in a realm between fantasy and reality, and her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, proved to be her most immersive journey yet. Presented at Paris Fashion Week, the show unfolded like a daydream, where familiar garments were unraveled and turned upside down to reveal unexpected new shapes.

Hu’s talent lies in questioning fashion and society, not with defiance but with delicacy. A simple T-shirt reemerged as an elaborate corset in quilted silk, a shirtdress was turned up so its collar brushed the hem, while linings were reimagined as outerwear. Even humor found its place: socks transformed into color-blocked panels across a ruched pink mini, striking an irreverent note amid the sophistication.

The true magic, however, was found in Hu’s embroidery. A cropped black jacket worn inside-out revealed stitches as an abstract, whisper-like pattern. Organza frocks carried trompe l’oeil bows that shimmered as if drawn onto the fabric. Elsewhere, fragments of floral prints blurred into pixelated geometry, pushing the line between craft and illusion. Layered tulle, overlaid with textiles derived from Hu’s own oil paintings, added a painterly depth that brought her personal vision vividly to life.

The presentation was heightened by a performance from Canadian choreographer Emma Portner, weaving dance into the collection’s atmosphere of movement and metamorphosis. That dialogue with the body extended to the footwear: Hu’s ongoing partnership with Adidas introduced the CLOT Taekwondo by Caroline Hu, shoes that merged the precision of martial arts with the fluidity of ballet. Rendered in black, blush, and ivory, they anchored the collection’s ethereal flights of fancy. Hu offered not just clothing but a meditation on transformation, gentle yet radical, playful yet profound. ~ Antonio Visconti.

Scroll down to see more highlights of the Reverie by Caroline Hu SS26 collection in Paris