Paris Haute Couture: Imane Ayissi and the New Geography of Luxury, Where Cultures Come Together

One of the soigne, jewel-coloured gowns that were a highlight of Imane Ayissi's AW26/27 haute couture collection in Paris. Photographs and cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn for DAM

Haute couture is at its most engaging when fine craftsmanship is matched by a powerful point of view. At Paris Haute Couture Week, Imane Ayissi once again demonstrated why he occupies such a distinctive place on the official calendar. Presenting his new Autumn/Winter 2026-2027 collection, the couturier unveiled a collection that fused sculptural elegance, artisanal mastery and cultural storytelling into a personal vision of contemporary couture. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn

The couturier Iman Ayissi with his new collection at the

finale of his joyous show in at the Aero Club de France.

AMID the gilded salons of the Aero Club de France in Paris, Imane Ayissi prepared to present Ozouandam Ollat, the Ewondo expression for haute couture, a collection that reaffirmed his voice within the international couture landscape. The show culminated in an impromptu and joyous dance on the runway. 

For the new season, the Cameroonian-born, Paris-based designer explored the relationship between movement, memory and craftsmanship, creating a refined vision of couture where once more he melds the precision of Parisian savoir-faire and the richness of African artisanal traditions.

Presented as part of the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar, where Ayissi appears as a guest member of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the collection demonstrated his continued commitment to expanding the language of couture beyond geographical boundaries. His work has always existed at the intersection of cultures: not as a contrast between African heritage and European technique, but as a sophisticated dialogue between two creative worlds.

The Autumn/Winter 2026-2027 show began with the atmosphere of departure and flight, setting the tone for a collection built around transformation and freedom. An announcement inviting guests to prepare for takeoff introduced a theatrical sense of movement, while also carrying an emotional resonance for Ayissi, paying tribute to his late mother, a former Miss Cameroon and flight attendant whose elegance and presence remained an important influence throughout his life.

Imane Ayissi's work is at the intersection of cultures: not as a contrast between African heritage and European technique, but as a sophisticated dialogue between two creative worlds

One of Ayissi's vividly hued new designs that

explore fine, beadwork and floriate patterns.

This emotional connection was expressed through garments that appeared to defy stillness. Ayissi’s silhouettes moved between structure and fluidity, balancing architectural precision with dramatic gestures of fabric. 

Sculptural dresses unfolded into sweeping capes and extended trains, while carefully constructed volumes created a sense of power without sacrificing elegance. Each look revealed the designer’s understanding that couture is not simply observed, it is experienced through the movement of the body.

That sensitivity to motion is deeply connected to Ayissi’s own artistic history. Before becoming one of the most recognised couturiers of African heritage, he trained as a dancer with the Ballet National du Cameroun, an experience that continues to influence his approach to form, proportion and rhythm. His early career as a model in Paris, working with renowned maisons including Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, further immersed him in the traditions of French luxury before he established his own couture house.

Born into a family surrounded by creativity, Ayissi grew up with a fine appreciation for performance and craftsmanship. His mother’s achievement as Miss Cameroon 1960, his father’s career as a champion boxer and the artistic pursuits of his siblings created an environment where discipline and expression were intertwined. These influences continue to shape a designer whose collections are as much about identity and storytelling as they are about design.

By bringing together personal history, global craftsmanship and an unmistakable creative identity, the designer is helping shape a more expansive future for couture

This sleek, brilliant red suit is beautifully cut and 

has a dash of romance with its swathe of raffia. 

For this collection, Ayissi once again placed materials at the centre of his creative vision. Luxurious silks, raffia, handwoven textiles and intricate embroidery demonstrated his ability to elevate traditional techniques into contemporary couture. 

Rather than using heritage as a decorative reference, he treats craftsmanship as a living practice, giving African textile traditions a place within the highest levels of international fashion.

The collection’s colour palette intensified its emotional impact, moving through vibrant blues, rich oranges, luminous jewel tones and softer shades that highlighted the complexity of the textiles. Beaded surfaces, floral-inspired embellishment and handcrafted details created garments that felt both modern and timeless.

Sustainability remained an essential part of Ayissi’s couture philosophy, with an emphasis on natural materials, artisanal production and techniques that celebrate longevity. In a fashion environment increasingly focused on speed and volume, his work offers a substantive alternative: luxury defined by skill, cultural knowledge and the human touch.

With Ozouandam Ollat, Imane Ayissi continues to demonstrate that haute couture is not a fixed tradition but an evolving art form. By bringing together personal history, global craftsmanship and an unmistakable creative identity, he is helping to shape a more expansive and inclusive future for couture, one where history becomes a source of innovation and beauty.

See more highlights from the Imane Ayissi Autumn/Winter 2026-27 Collection in Paris