The intensity and lyricism of Yuima Nakazato's Utakata haute couture show in Paris. Cover picture and photograph (above) by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
It has already been an industrious year for Yuima Nakazato: he presented a celebrated show in Paris during haute couture week in January, he designed the costumes for Mozart's Idomeneo which premiered at the Geneva Opera House in February and an exciting exhibition about his work will open in summer in France. The Japanese couturier talks about his creative ideas as we take a look back at the highlights of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Reporting by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn
Sculptural designs mix the diaphanous with the dramatic. evoking a new urban armour. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
“In the process of creating this collection, I came across the Japanese word utakata, which means 'ephemeral,' " he explains. “This word seemed to express the exact opposite of the trend seen in the evolution of men's clothing, where functionality and durability are increasingly valued and prioritized. What I wanted to convey was a sort of ephemeral armour, much like a delicate bubble formed on the surface of the water, capable of vanishing in the blink of an eye. This approach also represents a release from or renunciation of battle.”
Like an alchemist, the designer transforms textiles into poetry and creates designs that elicit strong emotion
Voluminous fabrics and striking abstract patterns heightened the potent impact of the collection. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
Inspired by the ancient allure of Crete and the enduring legacy of Mozart's 1781 opera, the designer embarked on a quest to reinterpret history through the prism of contemporary consciousness and explore the composer's tale of human suffering from the disasters of the ancient Greek wars.
For the opera and ballet at Switzerland’s Grand Théâtre de Genève, he designed scintillating costumes, working with the Belgian choreographer and director Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. "This show was created together with Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui as a sort of a non-verbal communication with modern society," the designer says. "There are no set answers, and the collection allows for various interpretations."
The odyssey of his creative trajectory took Nakazato from the shores of the Mediterranean to the hallowed halls of the Musée de l'Armée in Paris, where he unearthed the relics of antiquity with a discerning eye. What emerges from this journey is a tapestry of contradictions, where strength and vulnerability converge in a delicate dance of contrasts.
The odyssey of his creative trajectory took Nakazato from the shores of the Mediterranean to the hallowed halls of the Musée de l'Armée in Paris
Long, origami-like tunics adorned with silvery, sculpted details elucidated the idea of Nakazato's 'ephemeral armour.' Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
“With a vista of transparent, turquoise blue seas and groves of olive trees spread before me, I imagined the Trojan War as it took place in this beautiful scenery during the Minoan civilization.
"These reflections led me to reconsider the state of our modern society thousands of years later, which then became the starting point for this collection."
The 'ephemeral armour' speaks to a new
paradigm of masculinity, one that embraces sensitivity and grace amid the chaos
of modernity. Each garment, painstakingly crafted from reclaimed textiles and
adorned with dramatic ceramics, glass, and platinum, becomes a testament to the
enduring power of real artistry in an age of transience.
“During my research, I was struck by the appearance of armour
from this period excavated from ancient ruins," Nakazato says. "It was so beautiful that I could
scarcely believe it had been designed for combat. I found myself wondering why
beauty was necessary for a garment intended for use in war.
The collection's 'ephemeral armour' speaks to a new paradigm of masculinity that embraces sensitivity and grace amid the chaos of modernity
Pan Aran Gimeno on the runway with his "blood" soaked feet leaving a poignant trail. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
"As a result,
repeated advances in functionality and rationality have culminated in the
current style of military wear. Interestingly, these garments have served as
prototypes for much of the clothing we wear today.”
As the models traversed the runway at Paris' Palais de Tokyo, accompanied by the haunting strains of Tsubasa Hori's piano and the writhing movements of dancer Pau Aran Gimeno, the audience was enthralled.
Nakazato's designs with their sculptural silhouettes and intricate detailing, which invite contemplation and introspection, evoke a visceral response in the viewer. Gimeno, dressed all in diaphanous white, stepped into centre of the red pool, and as he moved along the catwalk, he created seemingly bloodied footsteps.
Like all of his collections since he launched in 2016 on the official Paris haute couture schedule, Nakazato has made Utakata a manifesto for change, a call to arms for a new era of sartorial expression. His commitment to sustainability and innovation shines through all of his work, as he challenges the industry to embrace a more conscious approach to producing and creating fashion. From his pioneering use of fermented bacteria as compostable textiles to his revolutionary Type-1 system that does away with the needle and thread, Nakazato proves that fashion can be both visionary and virtuous.
Utakata is a manifesto for change, a call to arms for a new era of sartorial expression that shows how fashion can be both visionary and virtuous
Designer Yuima Nakazato dips his brush into the red pool at the finale of his show in Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn |
In our
transient world, Yuima Nakazato's creations show how art in fashion can not only inspire,
provoke and elevate the human spirit but also be a practical inspiration for
real change at the level of production and recycling.
“Through the contradictory existence of delicate, fragile armour created by textiles shredded and reclaimed from worn-out uniforms and workwear and decorated with ceramics, glass, and platinum, this collection shows the evolution of clothing, " explains the couturier. "It is also an attempt to fuse the delicate and fragile handwork elements of couture with the evolutionary path followed by men's clothing that has continued since ancient times."
In the months to come, as Nakazato prepares for the premiere of his first exhibition Yuima Nakazato, Beyond Couture, at the Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode in Calais, and pushes the boundaries of couture, his work continues to be a beacon of innovation, creativity, and above all, beauty. For in the fleeting moments of Ukataka and in the enduring collection of his designs, we glimpse the essence of fashion at its artistic best.