Thursday 6 July 2023

Paris Fashion Feature: Rahul Mishra Champions Indian Artisans and Traditional Crafts

A soigne haute couture gown with remarkable hand-emboidery was a standout at Rahul Mishra's Autumn/Winter 2023-24 show in Paris. Main picture (above) and cover by Anna Nguyen 

Rahul Mishra cultivates the skills of local communities by employing artisans across rural India. By reimagining luxury from the perspective of his craftspeople, the designer's work is making a difference in the way couture fashion is produced. Determined to elevate Indian crafts and those who make them, he aims to create a harmonious blend of fashion, art, and social responsibility. Reporting by Antonio Visconti. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Elli Ioannou, Andrea Heinsohn and Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra takes his bow at his Paris show
with an artisan working on the runway. 
Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Unveiling his latest haute couture collection in the prodigious courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris, Rahul Mishra dedicated his new work to the unsung heroes of the fashion world. 

The collection, called We, The Peoplecelebrated the exceptional craftsmanship of the artisans and embroiderers who breathe life into his designs, transforming imagination into reality on exquisite fabrics like silk, chiffon, and tulle.

The neo-classical, 18th century Paris Mint with its immense inner concourse hosted two master artisans engrossed in their craft, embroidering intricate landscapes of tigers and flowers, swans and rivers. Their dedication and artistry bringing to life Mishra's designs, inspired by the rich natural beauty of India.

The artisans are part of Mishra's community of craftspeople that he has developed in India, and it is why he dedicated the show to them. His eponymous label is not just about creating striking designs but giving local craft communities skills and work. Mishra is looking at luxury through the lens of his employee's participation rather than only at the end consumption. 

This season, Rahul Mishra celebrated the exceptional craftsmanship of the artisans and embroiderers who breathe life into his designs

Brilliant hues and hand-embroidered
blooms and leaves are signatures of
Rahul Mishra's work. 
Photograph: Anna Nguyen
The essence of Mishra's brand lies in the way it is made with much created by hand-weaving and hand-embroidery. These traditional Indian crafts not only result in unique pieces but also provide sustainable livelihoods for more than a thousand artisans in different parts of India. 

It is through their collective efforts that Mishra's vision takes shape. His commitment to employing rural Indian craftspeople fosters reverse migration, drawing skilled workers back to their roots to preserve and revitalize traditional crafts. 

The expertise exemplified in the new collection, presented at Paris Haute Couture Week, evokes the flamboyance and intricacy that Rahul Mishra's work is known for. 

He says those with more elongated silhouettes were inspired by the Art Nouveau drawings of the Paris-based, Russian artist Erté. In contrast to these more minimal designs were the voluminous creations embellished with petals, bows, and girandoles. 

The designer's commitment to slow fashion is evident in the elaborate hand-made details that adorn each garment, sometimes taking thousands of hours to create.

Amid the bold palette of tropical colours, Mishra's use of black and white created a contrast throughout the collection. The impeccable handiwork, shimmering sequins, and exuberant decorations illustrate the designer's sense of joy and passion for fashion. 

By employing rural Indian craftspeople, the designer fosters reverse migration, drawing skilled workers back to their roots to preserve and revitalize traditional crafts

One of the designer's artisans
at work on his embroidery 
during the haute couture
show in Paris. 
Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Rahul Mishra explains his design philosophy is based around "environment, employment, and empowerment." By embracing slow fashion and sustainable practices, Mishra strives to create a positive impact on both the planet's ecosystem and the lives of artisans. His belief in fashion's power to change lives is evident in his commitment to the community that brings his designs to fruition. 

While his work has garnered acclaim globally, Mishra's own roots remain deeply connected to his simple upbringing in Malhausi, Uttar Pradesh. His journey to success has not been without challenges. 

Yet despite growing up in this small village with limited resources, he discovered his talent for design. But it was his determination to create meaningful change and employ people in rural India which shaped his unique approach to fashion.

Beyond his opulent couture creations, Mishra has also expanded into designing wedding wear which has been a great success after much experimentation with unusual colors rather than just the traditional red. The wedding aspect of his business has been pivotal in sustaining employment for the 1,200 embroiderers working with Mishra. 

By embracing slow fashion and sustainable practices, Mishra strives to create a positive impact on both the environment and the lives of artisans

An intricate design using sequins is created
by Mishra's Indian artisans, sitting on the edge
of the runaway in the vast Monnaie de Paris 
courtyard. Photograph; Anna Nguyen
The demand for his wedding designs is driven by people looking for something distinctive. Mishra still draws inspiration from ancient Indian sources, but his signature use of calico is entirely different to traditional bridal wear. 

This socially conscious approach to fashion proves that even the most lavish events, like weddings, can be a force for good, creating employment opportunities for these talented artisans. It has not only boosted his company but kept many of these embroiderers working. 

The brand's "mindful luxury" ethos is based on creating meaningful employment. Although he dresses celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Priyanka Chopra and Zendaya, Rahul Mishra remains connected to his Indian roots and committed to making a positive improvements to his employee's lives.

In a fast fashion world often characterized by rapid trends and mass production, the designer stands out for this more sustainable approach. Rahul Mishra made history as the first Indian designer to showcase at the prestigious Paris Haute Couture Week, a feat that not only brought recognition to his label but also shed light on the traditions of Indian crafts he is promoting and supporting.

Although he dresses celebrities such as Gigi Hadid and Zendaya, Mishra remains connected to his Indian roots and committed to positive change in his community

The exquisitely embroidered wedding gown finale
closed the haute couture show in Paris.
Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 
Rahul Mishra's has made his vision of working with Indian craft communities and embracing sustainable practices viable.

By slowing down the production process and dedicating hours to handcrafting each piece, Mishra fosters deeper worker participation and ultimately creates enchanting pieces that resonate with people. 

As he continues to showcase the beauty of Indian crafts on the global stage, Mishra demonstrates the value of using the power of fashion as a tool for both social change and environmental conservation. 

Highlights from Rahul Mishra's Autumn/Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture Collection in Paris
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen



Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou


Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen 

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph; Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph; Andrea Heinsohn 

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Rahul Mishra Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24, Monnaie de Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen


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