Desert Dreams in Paris: Stéphane Rolland's Haute Couture Odyssey

Stéphane Rolland's muse Nieves Álvarez in charcoal silk gazar with braided leather encrusted with crystals. Photograph: Elli Ioannou for DAM

From the serene vastness of desert landscapes to Berber cultural influences, the inspirations for French couturier Stéphane Rolland's Spring/Summer 2024 collection captivates the senses with a rich tapestry of textures, colours, and silhouettes. The collaboration this season with emerging talent from French fashion schools also added another layer of depth and continuity to his work in haute couture. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento and Elli Ioannou. Research by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn 

Stephane Rolland takes a bow with Ibrahim Maalouf 

muse Nieves Álvarez. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

THE Art Deco Salle Pleyel, the 1927 concert hall in Paris' 8th arrondissement, is a dramatic space to hold a fashion show. Walking into the columned entrance rotunda filled with guests attending the collection, there is an air of excitement and anticipation.

Stairs lead up to a cavernous, dark auditorium called the Great Hall, with staff wearing earpieces, helping people find their seats. 

A long, broad runway stretches out from the stage in the midst of the audience, like a path of golden sand. A phalanx of photographers is at the back of the theatre, all jockeying for a good position. 

A hum of conversation rises as the theatre fills up, with some guests wearing Stéphane Rolland creations from head-to-toe. As the audience settles, the lights are dimmed and the couturier himself comes on stage to introduce the 20 students from French fashion schools who will present their work before his own haute couture show. 

The show is an immersive experience with sound and visuals including a film of undulating dunes and vast skies mixed with the call of eagles, whistling winds and evocative music

Cape-sleeved gown in terracotta silk jersey.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland's work with French fashion schools ESMOD and the Institut Francais de la Mode is exciting and inspiring for the students. By showcasing fashion conceived by them, alongside his own creations, the French couturier emphasizes the importance of transmitting knowledge and experience.

The master classes and mentorship provided to these budding designers reflect Rolland's commitment to nurturing new talent and ensuring that the artistry of haute couture continues. 

As renowned artists have done in the past, the couturier's offer to stage the work of these aspiring designers, allows their creativity to shine alongside his. As music fills the concert hall, models walk out wearing the students' designs. Many of the student ensembles look accomplished with some standout pieces that would be at home on any Paris couture runway. 

La Salle Pleyel is also a fittingly historic backdrop for Stéphane Rolland's own creations which combine fine artisanship with futuristic design. The audience is given an immersive experience with sound and visuals including a projected film of soft sands, undulating dunes and vast skies mixed with the calls of eagles, whistling winds and music. 

Stephane Rolland's collaboration with French fashion schools emphasizes the importance of transmitting knowledge to the next generation of couturiers 

Saroul jumpsuit with cape sleeves in white silk

gazar, worn with a bronze, diamond and 

topaz pendant. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rolland's designs with their free-flowing fluidity and glimmering fabrics work well with the atmospheric desert background. His work demonstrates his masterly fusion of tradition and innovation. One of the key pieces is a sand-hued, satin crepe gown adorned with black braids. 

There is a delicate dance of textures, colors, and inspirations drawn from the desert terrain.

The essence of Rolland's vision lies in his concept of fullness and volume which creates a cocoon of protection. These commodious dresses are mixed with long, shimmering sheathes that sparkle and catch the light, hugging the body.

Each of the designs is imbued with a sense of protection and revelation, as if the wearer is surrounded by comforting layers of fabric that both simultaneously conceal and reveal. Overall, the color palette mirrors the hues of dawn, from warm ochres to delicate pinks, creams and whites, creating a congenial tonal picture.  

The collection unfolds like a journey through shifting landscapes, from a terracotta-hued cashmere burnous that evokes the warmth of desert sunsets to an oversized hooded tunic in rosewood gazar that capture the feeling of a blowing, desert wind. 

Rolland's designs with their free-flowing fluidity and glimmering fabrics demonstrate his masterly fusion of tradition and innovation

Sensuous satin crepe worn with a braided

leather hood and a striking diamond and 

emerald jewel. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The designer has an East meets West ethos in his designs that he keeps in fine balance, as evidenced by the intricate melding of cultural influences in all of the garments. 

The use of materials like gossamer satin, buffed steel, and lustrous gazar add depth and texture, while gold and silver pieces show Rolland's sure hand when integrating dramatic jewellery into his designs. 

One of the standout gowns is an asymmetrical caramel silk creation with a big, hooded top like a Berber nomad.  

Silk gazar is one of the favourite fabrics used by Rolland in all of his collections, as it is able to hold its shape due to the double yarns woven together to create a strong yet lightweight, glistening textile. Originally, gazar was developed by couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga who often used the fabric in his 1960s collections. 

Sculptural jewellery is another signature of the French couturier's work and is crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Adorned with chiseled stones and gold calligraphy, the pieces show the skills of Rolland's chosen silversmiths and add an element of extravagance to each gown. The accessories all add glamour and modernity to the looks. Many of Rolland's designs for garments and jewels show the influence of contemporary architecture on his work, a subject he is passionate about. 

Silk gazar is one of the couturier's favourite fabrics as it holds its shape due to the woven double yarns which create a strong yet lightweight, glistening textile

Blue organza robe embroidered with a gold
totem design. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

As the sun sets and dusk descends in the projected film on the stage in the Salle Pleyel, the collection takes on a deeper, more introspective tone. 

Rich Tuareg blue hues dominate the runway, symbolizing twilight in the desert. The intricate embroidery and sparkling embellishments are luxurious, while tribal-inspired motifs create a sense of connection to ancient traditions. 

The models wearing a scintillating Majorelle blue walk out for the finale, some gowns finished with gold totemic designs, the diaphanous feel enhanced by silk organza and jersey.  When they turn back along the golden runway, Rolland's longtime muse Nieves Álvarez appears on the stage in the striking Medea dress which has a hood in charcoal silk gazar embellished with crystal-encrusted leather.

As Alvarez returns to the wings, the stage darkens and smoke rises from the runway. The famous French-Lebanese trumpeter Ibrahim Maalouf appears on stage and plays a very evocative piece of music as a girl in a spectacular cape appears. The rippling, capacious cape dress is created from bark-brown gazar with billowing, raffia fringes embroidered with crystals.

The flowing gowns adorned with exquisite jewelry, transport the audience to a world where art and fashion merge, offering moments of magic that linger 

Ibrahim Maalouf plays the trumpet at the finale.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Maalouf walks around the model playing his trumpet as a spotlight highlights them, smoke rising up like a sandstorm from the runway. Then the stage is once more engulfed by darkness before lights come up as all the models appear, glittering and glimmering in a long row of deep blues, gold and silver. 

One by one they walk down the centre of the catwalk that extends into the audience, as the sun sets behind them in the film. The models line each side of the wide runway, like waiting sentinels. 

Stéphane Rolland and Ibrahim Maalouf arrive on the stage and walk along the catwalk until they meet Nieves Álvarez where he stops and gallantly kisses her hand. The applause is enthusiastic as the audience appreciate both the designer's work and the beautiful production of the haute couture show. 

The new collection is a journey of discovery, a celebration of creativity, and a testament to the skill and imagination imbued in the best of haute couture. 

As each model gracefully traverses the runway, draped in flowing gowns and adorned with exquisite jewelry, the audience is transported to a world where art and fashion merge. The show offered captivating, contemporary designs but also moments of magic and inspiration that linger long after the finale at the Salle Pleyel.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Stpehane Rolland's SS24 Paris Haute Couture Collection 

Stéphane Rolland Paris Haute Couture La Salle Pleyel Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi's Colourful and Dynamic Collection for Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024

Raffia used in a creative way at the SS24 haute couture collection of Imane Ayissi in Paris. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM

Imane Ayissi’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection was a highlight of Paris Haute Couture Week. A tribute to the richness of African textiles and craftsmanship, the Cameroonian designer mixed brilliant colours with strong prints, diaphanous silhouettes, and unique textiles. He included traditional fabrics, illustrating how they can be used to preserve Africa’s heritage and inspire the next generation, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Elli Ioannou & Andrea Heinsohn

Designer Imane Ayissi at the finale of his Paris 

show.Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

A vivid and engaging celebration of African textiles, Imane Ayissi's new collection of dynamic designs was a standout during Paris Haute Couture Week.

With the collection, Ayissi wove a story that beautifully intertwined tradition with contemporary haute couture. 

The runway pulsated with bright colors, under Ayissi's sure hand the purples, shimmering pinks and turquoise formed a cohesive whole and made a salient contrast to the all-black designs. 

The collection showcased twenty-six looks that cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping which enfolded the body. Ayissi's use of traditional African fabrics, was notable, particularly the Kente cloth from Ghana. Narrow skirts topped by short but voluminous jackets were especially effective using the African textiles. 

The collection showcased twenty-six looks which cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping

Traditional African fabrics were a feature
of the collection. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

The designer's use of Faso Dan Fani, a traditional fabric from Burkina Faso, was included in patchwork designs that had a subtle play of hues and textures. 

The collection also featured panels of woven materials and the use of raffia, another everyday material that is part of Ayissi's design canon. A vibrant orange minidress with raffia knotted down the front demonstrated the designer's capacity to use quotidian materials for haute couture.

Imane Ayissi's dedication to using and exploring African textiles means he is aiming to find high-quality materials from Africa. He is also a pioneer in integrating bamboo fibre into his work as part of his concern for the environment.  

The designer, who was the first from Sub-Saharan Africa to be included on the official Paris Haute Couture Week schedule four years ago, says he wants to recover and preserve Africa's textile heritage. Ayissi has said Africans need to embrace their history along with the economic potential of the fashion industry. 

Ayissi is challenging the fashion industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage

The striking raffia orange minidress.
Photograph by Elli Ioannou

This Spring/Summer 2024 collection captivated the audience but also served as a call for the conservation and promotion of Africa's textiles. 

The designer's ability to use satins and silks with these local fabrics to create soigne gowns evinces his ability to bring a fresh vision to haute couture. 

As a couturier, Ayissi is not just creating fashion; he is leading a movement, challenging the industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Imane Ayissi's Spring/Summer 2024 collection in Paris 

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn 

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

Rahul Mishra's Superheroes: Celebrating Biodiversity Through Haute Couture in Paris

The celebration of the natural world in Rahul Mishra's SS24 couture collection in Paris. Photograph by Elli Ioannou for DAM 

Rahul Mishra is a trailblazer, a champion of slow fashion through traditional Indian crafts. His eponymous label embodies sustainability, using fashion as a tool to empower local craft communities. Showcased in Paris, his latest haute couture collection for Spring 2024 delves into the symbiotic relationship between humans and the natural world, focusing on the often-overlooked insect kingdom and its vital role in our ecosystem, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Elli Ioannou

 

Fascinated by dragonflies, Mishra has 

incorporated them as an essential part of

his new collection in Paris.

Travelling to the 9th arrondissment on Paris' Rive Droite, the DAM team discover Rahul Mishra's couture show is being held at a monolithic, red-brick former French telephone exchange on the corner of Rue Bergere and Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. 

This is the second time in the past few days we have been to see a runway show at this building with its domed entrance and massive reinforced-concrete facade decorated with an ironwork clock, the signs of the zodiac marking the hours, by the sculptor Szabo. Designed by Francois Le Coeur and constructed between 1911~14, now it is a building site, awaiting a renovation that will turn it into contemporary office space. 

Today, crowds wait outside for the show below the high, stepped entrance. With invitations in hand, we pass through security and tall glass doors open into a foyer which is now a raw concrete shell. Guests wearing 10-inch heels and floor length gowns look with some trepidation at the steep, concrete stairs girded with red builders' tape. 

Skirts are grasped in hand and people launch themselves upwards, some struggling to reach the top of the four flights. We had already seen the American designer Colm Dillane's Kidsuper show here during Paris Fashion Week for menswear, when it was covered in forest of luminescent pink and green, like a contemporary art installation. 

Rahul Mishra not only celebrates the insect kingdom but also calls for a better understanding of these creatures vital to our ecosystems

Mishra also created delicate, abstract

designs to express his ideas about a

permeable architecture that works

with rather than against Nature. 

For his collection, Rahul Mishra created a pared back space that showed the building's industrial bones except for the lavish, sparkling chandeliers and gilt salon chairs for guests to sit on. The vast, unadorned room provided a suitably urban backdrop for his brilliantly-hued designs.

This background with its concrete girders above certainly heightened the contrast with the designer's celebration of all things insect in his collection, sometimes in astonishing detail. 

Each piece showed the exquisite craftsmanship of Mishra's Indian artisans with their use of traditional embroidery, from sequined butterflies and serpents to three dimensional scarabs. These elements were not merely decorative but symbolic, representing the delicate balance of our ecosystem and the importance of preserving it. 

Mishra's collection is a thoughtful reflection on the natural world, emphasizing the intricate beauty and essential role of insects and reptiles. Aptly titled Superheroes, the collections highlights the Indian couturier's respect for nature and his dedication to sustainable fashion. 

 

Drawing inspiration from his personal experiences, Mishra's connection with the natural world is rooted in the Himalayan Forest where he has a house. This serene environment, teeming with diverse species, starkly contrasts with built-up cities where insects, snakes and reptiles are often viewed as pests. Mishra's reflections on the world through his work emphasize the need to bridge the gap between our urban lives and nature, fostering a greater sense of harmonious coexistence. 

This collection was not just about sumptuous visual splendour but also carried a profound message about biodiversity and the urgent need to preserve it

The Serpents Labyrinth, designed

to evoke the snake as an ancient symbol.

The first look of the show set the tone with a striking representation of a petri dish, complete with meticulously embroidered dragonfly (see main picture above). This piece, with its lifelike detail, evoked a sense of Mishra's wonder and reverence for plants and animals and his delight in bringing them into his collection.

"It's disheartening to envision a future where a magnificent creature like a dragonfly is discovered for the first time by a young child in petri dish," Mishra says. 

Another of the key pieces is the Serpents Labyrinth designed to represent this feared reptile instead as an ancient symbol of rebirth, renewal and wisdom. Mishra hopes people will look at the snake in another light as an essential part of our biosphere. 

Other standout designs were a deep azure ruffled cape dress called Sapphire Rain, a hand-embroidered Divine Being look with a dragonfly corset top and sequined ivory trousers and the circular Moth Light design created as an embroidery installation showing colourful moths against the bodice. 

Another more abstract creation is the Azure's Tree jacket and trousers which gleams in cobalt blue with a design that mimics bitten leaves by insects. These pieces highlight Mishra's ability to blend artistic vision with technical virtuosity. His designs symbolize the need to protect flora and fauna along with their habitats. 

This collection was not just about sumptuous visual splendor but also carried a profound message about biodiversity and the pressing need to preserve it. Mishra's work urges us to appreciate these "benign architects of the planet" and to recognize their crucial role in maintaining ecological balance. 

The designer's commitment to empowering local craftspeople not only helps maintain traditional crafts but also promotes more sustainable fashion practices

A silvery, realistic lizard is intricately

hand-embroidered on to a long,

black skirt by local artisans,

The social consciousness embedded in Mishra's work was further highlighted by his quotation of the entire D.H. Lawrence poem Snake as his show notes. The poem, which narrates an encounter with a serpent, reflects the societal instinct to destroy what we do not understand. The designer's collection challenges this mindset, encouraging a shift towards admiration and preservation.  

The realistic representations of insects and reptiles on his garments evoke a sense of delight rather than trepidation. While the meticulous craftsmanship in the designer's collections is a testament to the dedication and skill of the artisans he uses across India.  

Each garment, with its intricate hand embroidery and detailed appliqués, represents countless hours of labor and love. Mishra's commitment to empowering local craftspeople not only helps maintain traditional crafts but also promotes more sustainable fashion practices. 

In a world dominated by fast fashion, Mishra's slow fashion demonstrates a more ethical and responsible approach. By employing time-honored methods and supporting communities of artisans, he creates fashion that is not only beautiful but also meaningful. The designer's work shows how haute couture can be both luxurious and environmentally friendly, offering a compelling alternative to the mass-produced garments flooding the market. 

In a world dominated by fast fashion, Mishra's slow fashion demonstrates a more ethical and responsible approach to producing garments

Layers and layers of hand-cut, bright-pink tulle 

create the striking volume of these capes and gowns. 

Mishra's palette for this collection was as bold as his message, featuring vibrant hues in dark blues, lime greens and deep pinks. These colors, inspired by flowers and insects, add a dynamic element to the collection, enhancing its overall visual impact. 

The bright hues combined with the elaborate embellishments, made the collection both striking and thought-provoking. A touching exploration of Nature and its beauty. 

Through the art of his designs, Mishra not only celebrates the insect kingdom but also calls for a better understanding of these vital creatures to our ecosystems. His commitment to sustainability and historic craftsmanship shines through this collection, offering hope to an industry often criticized for its environmental impact. Rahul Mishra's Superheroes remind us that true power over our future on this planet lies with creating harmony and a positive coexistence with the natural world.

Highlights from the Rahul Mishra SS24 Haute Couture show in Paris