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| Raffia used in a creative way at the SS24 haute couture collection of Imane Ayissi in Paris. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
Imane Ayissi’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection was a highlight of Paris Haute Couture Week. A tribute to the richness of African textiles and craftsmanship, the Cameroonian designer mixed brilliant colours with strong prints, diaphanous silhouettes, and unique textiles. He included traditional fabrics, illustrating how they can be used to preserve Africa’s heritage and inspire the next generation, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Elli Ioannou & Andrea Heinsohn
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Designer Imane Ayissi at the finale of his Paris show.Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn |
With the collection, Ayissi wove a story that beautifully intertwined tradition with contemporary haute couture.
The runway pulsated with bright colors, under Ayissi's sure hand the purples, shimmering pinks and turquoise formed a cohesive whole and made a salient contrast to the all-black designs.
The collection showcased twenty-six looks that cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping which enfolded the body. Ayissi's use of traditional African fabrics, was notable, particularly the Kente cloth from Ghana. Narrow skirts topped by short but voluminous jackets were especially effective using the African textiles.
The collection showcased twenty-six looks which cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping
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| Traditional African fabrics were a feature of the collection. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
The collection also featured panels of woven materials and the use of raffia, another everyday material that is part of Ayissi's design canon. A vibrant orange minidress with raffia knotted down the front demonstrated the designer's capacity to use quotidian materials for haute couture.
Imane Ayissi's dedication to using and exploring African textiles means he is aiming to find high-quality materials from Africa. He is also a pioneer in integrating bamboo fibre into his work as part of his concern for the environment.
The designer, who was the first from Sub-Saharan Africa to be included on the official Paris Haute Couture Week schedule four years ago, says he wants to recover and preserve Africa's textile heritage. Ayissi has said Africans need to embrace their history along with the economic potential of the fashion industry.
Ayissi is challenging the fashion industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage
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| The striking raffia orange minidress. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
The designer's ability to use satins and silks with these local fabrics to create soigne gowns evinces his ability to bring a fresh vision to haute couture.
As a couturier, Ayissi is not just creating fashion; he is leading a movement, challenging the industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage.
Scroll down to see more highlights from Imane Ayissi's Spring/Summer 2024 collection in Paris
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou |
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| Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn |