A Flight of Fashion: Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture Collection at Paris’ Petit Palais

One of Celia Kritharioti's billowing pink confections at the Petit Palais in Paris. Photograph and masthead cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM

The grandeur of the Petit Palais set the stage for Celia Kritharioti’s Spring/Summer 2025 haute couture show, an event that blended historic opulence with contemporary craftsmanship. The museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture, with its intricate moldings and sweeping staircases, provided a fittingly majestic backdrop for the Greek designer’s latest collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou 

Coco Rocha strikes a pose 

in one of Celia Kritharioti's 

pink,white and black creations

PARIS - The Petit Palais' luminous interiors and gilded details complemented Celia Kritharioti's new collection’s aesthetic, heightening the dramatic impact of each design as it made its way down the runway. 

The designer drew her inspiration from the flamingo, a creature often associated with poise and beauty. This theme was explored through a palette dominated by shades of pink, ranging from soft blush tones to vivid fuchsia, juxtaposed with black and white. 

Silhouettes in the collection reflected the graceful curvature of the flamingo’s form, with draped fabrics and structured tailoring working in harmony. Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured the movement of the bird’s plumage, while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic. The theme of duality ~ gentleness and boldness, fluidity and structure ~ was evident throughout the collection.

Kritharioti’s reputation for intricate craftsmanship was evident in the detailing of the garments. The collection featured oversized bows, delicate ribbons, and trompe l'œil effects, lending a whimsical touch to the designs. Handmade embroidery and meticulous embellishments highlighted the couture techniques for which the house is known.

The designer also played with layering and transparency, incorporating sheer fabrics that added depth and dimension to the pieces. Some gowns featured cascading ruffles, creating the illusion of movement, while others were adorned with beaded accents that shimmered under the runway lights. The balance of bold and delicate elements reinforced the collection’s overarching theme.

Voluminous gowns with feather-like textures captured movement while sleeker designs emphasized a refined, sculptural aesthetic

Stella Maxwell models a gown 

with a voluminous skirt and 

fitted black contrasting bustier

Supermodels Coco Rocha, Alessandra Ambrosio, Irina Shayk and Stella Maxwell graced the runway, adding to the collection’s star power. Their commanding presence brought life to the designs, enhancing the dramatic silhouettes and intricate details. 

Coco Rocha, known for her dynamic runway performances, captivated the audience with her signature theatrical poses, while Ambrosio’s effortless elegance complemented the flowing, sculptural gowns.

Originally founded in 1906, Celia Kritharioti’s fashion house holds the distinction of being Greece’s oldest couture atelier. Since the designer has run the fashion house, it has built a reputation for creating bespoke couture garments that emphasize intricate detailing, luxurious fabrics, and exceptional craftsmanship. Under her direction, the label has maintained its dedication to handmade techniques, drawing inspiration from art, culture, and nature.

The designer has dressed an impressive roster of celebrities and royalty, further cementing her status in haute couture. Her creations have been worn by Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, and Naomi Campbell, as well as European royalty including Queen Rania of Jordan and Princess Charlene of Monaco. This legacy of dressing influential figures underscores the house’s reputation for delivering elegance and savoir faire. 

As mentioned, this season's show locale held at the Petit Palais did work particularly well with the collection. The setting’s ornate architecture and historical significance provided the right setting for Kritharioti’s designs, reinforcing the house’s connection to couture traditions. The runway show was accompanied by atmospheric lighting and music, creating an immersive experience for the audience.

Celia Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective 

This beautifully cut pink ensemble

added a soigne note of elegance

Kritharioti’s approach remained true to the house’s signature aesthetic with its emphasis on femininity, elegance and delicate embellishment which aligns with previous seasons and the label's design language. Her clients appreciate the consistency in execution and the clear thematic direction.

As haute couture continues to evolve, designers are faced with the challenge of balancing artistic expression with contemporary relevance. Kritharioti’s SS25 collection reaffirmed her commitment to traditional couture techniques while offering a fresh perspective through its flamingo-inspired aesthetic.

The collection’s dramatic use of color and volume resonated with haute couture’s emphasis on spectacle, yet its attention to detail and craftsmanship ensured it remained rooted in couture heritage. 

As the fashion landscape shifts towards innovation and adaptability, Kritharioti’s work serves as a reminder of the enduring appeal of meticulously crafted couture.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Celia Kritharioti's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris

KidSuper's Colm Dillane Unleashes a Whirlwind of Creativity at Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025

Amid the vaporous 'tornado' and keening voice of Ekaterina Shelehova, American designer Colm Dillane presented an engaging, eclectic and wearable collection in Paris. Photograph (above) by Jay Zoo. Masthead picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM 

At Paris Fashion Week, KidSuper’s Colm Dillane once again demonstrated why his label remains one of the most dynamic and inventive forces on the global fashion stage. With a 'visual storm' on the runway, the American designer harnessed the power of art, engineering, and bold design to deliver a spectacle that was both theatrical and thought-provoking along with an evocative collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Jay Zoo

The 'tornado' created by artists

Daniel Wurtzel and Lynn Newman

at Colm Dillane's Paris show

THE ATMOSPHERE inside the 19th century hall in the historic la Villette centre in the north of Paris was charged with anticipation as the KidSuper Autumn/Winter 2025-26 show opened with an otherworldly display, thanks to artist Daniel Wurtzel and his wife Lynn Newman. Known for their intricate manipulation of air and vapour, the New York-based duo collaborated with Dillane to transform the stage into a visual storm. “Performative arts and fashion share a common thread: the ability to evoke emotion and tell stories through spectacle,” Wurtzel said.

Hidden vents released curling streams of vapor that gathered into a high-speed vortex under the guidance of an airscrew. This meticulously calculated performance set the tone for an evening that was as much about storytelling as it was about style. The collection itself mirrored the turbulence of the staging, presenting a blend of chaos and cohesion. Dillane’s designs embraced a raw, layered aesthetic that spoke to themes of apocalypse and resilience. 

The show, called From a Place I Have Never Been, came with KidSuper 'passports' for guests that looked official with stamps and ID. The evening show's finale was the stirring singing by Ekaterina Shelehova: "Her performance was the emotional heartbeat of the show,” Dillane said.“The best art doesn’t happen in isolation, it’s born from a collective effort, a dialogue between different talents and perspectives.” 

The new collection's upcycled materials, including painted army surplus kit bags, formed a rugged foundation for several looks. In a nod to KidSuper’s growing global reach, it also featured the brand’s first-ever Made in Italy pieces, a significant milestone for Dillane, who emphasized his commitment to keeping his designs affordable rather than luxury items. 

Familiar motifs from previous collections resurfaced, providing continuity amid the innovation. Dresses crafted from discarded canvases, a standout feature of Dillane’s past work, returned with new energy. The designer’s signature face collage puffers, denim barn jackets, and embroidered doodle outerwear also made an appearance, proving that KidSuper’s playful yet poignant approach to fashion remains central to its identity. Highlights included a moody black leather trench coat inscribed with poetry and an intricately quilted white suit that showcased Dillane’s technical prowess.

KidSuper’s blend of artistic vision and entrepreneurial ambition continues to offer a fresh perspective at Paris Fashion Week

Designer Colm Dillane takes his

bow at the end of his show

One of the most talked about aspects of the show was KidSuper’s collaboration with Japanese streetwear giant Bape. The partnership yielded a range of pieces, from shark hoodies and camouflage jackets to a pinstriped suit adorned with vine leaf patterns. 

A caricature Baby Milo T-shirt featuring Dillane himself added a touch of humor to the lineup. The collaboration felt particularly meaningful for Dillane, who reminisced about selling his own printed T-shirts outside Bape’s New York store during his school days.

As Dillane took his bow, the energy in the room was electric. “I try to do the impossible every time,” he remarked at the end of the show, capturing the spirit of his brand. 

KidSuper’s blend of artistic vision and entrepreneurial ambition continues to make waves, offering a refreshing perspective at Paris Fashion Week. With his storm-themed spectacle, Dillane once again proved that fashion can be a powerful force for creativity and disruption.

Scroll down to see highlights from the Paris KidSuper Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection