Sunday, 26 January 2025

KidSuper's Colm Dillane Unleashes a Whirlwind of Creativity at Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025

Amid the vaporous 'tornado' and keening voice of Ekaterina Shelehova, American designer Colm Dillane presented an engaging, eclectic and wearable collection in Paris. Photograph (above) by Jay Zoo. Masthead picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM 
At Paris Fashion Week, KidSuper’s Colm Dillane once again demonstrated why his label remains one of the most dynamic and inventive forces on the global fashion stage. With a 'visual storm' on the runway, the American designer harnessed the power of art, engineering, and bold design to deliver a spectacle that was both theatrical and thought-provoking along with an evocative collection, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Jay Zoo

The 'tornado' created by artists
Daniel Wurtzel and Lynn Newman
at Colm Dillane's Paris show
THE ATMOSPHERE inside the 19th century hall in the historic la Villette centre in the north of Paris was charged with anticipation as the KidSuper Autumn/Winter 2025-26 show opened with an otherworldly display, thanks to artist Daniel Wurtzel and his wife Lynn Newman. Known for their intricate manipulation of air and vapour, the New York-based duo collaborated with Dillane to transform the stage into a visual storm. “Performative arts and fashion share a common thread: the ability to evoke emotion and tell stories through spectacle,” Wurtzel said.

Hidden vents released curling streams of vapor that gathered into a high-speed vortex under the guidance of an airscrew. This meticulously calculated performance set the tone for an evening that was as much about storytelling as it was about style. The collection itself mirrored the turbulence of the staging, presenting a blend of chaos and cohesion. Dillane’s designs embraced a raw, layered aesthetic that spoke to themes of apocalypse and resilience. 

The show, called From a Place I Have Never Been, came with KidSuper 'passports' for guests that looked official with stamps and ID. The evening show's finale was the stirring singing by Ekaterina Shelehova: "Her performance was the emotional heartbeat of the show,” Dillane said.“The best art doesn’t happen in isolation, it’s born from a collective effort, a dialogue between different talents and perspectives.” 

The new collection's upcycled materials, including painted army surplus kit bags, formed a rugged foundation for several looks. In a nod to KidSuper’s growing global reach, it also featured the brand’s first-ever Made in Italy pieces, a significant milestone for Dillane, who emphasized his commitment to keeping his designs affordable rather than luxury items. 

Familiar motifs from previous collections resurfaced, providing continuity amid the innovation. Dresses crafted from discarded canvases, a standout feature of Dillane’s past work, returned with new energy. The designer’s signature face collage puffers, denim barn jackets, and embroidered doodle outerwear also made an appearance, proving that KidSuper’s playful yet poignant approach to fashion remains central to its identity. Highlights included a moody black leather trench coat inscribed with poetry and an intricately quilted white suit that showcased Dillane’s technical prowess.

KidSuper’s blend of artistic vision and entrepreneurial ambition continues to offer a fresh perspective at Paris Fashion Week

Designer Colm Dillane takes his
bow at the end of his show
One of the most talked about aspects of the show was KidSuper’s collaboration with Japanese streetwear giant Bape. The partnership yielded a range of pieces, from shark hoodies and camouflage jackets to a pinstriped suit adorned with vine leaf patterns. 

A caricature Baby Milo T-shirt featuring Dillane himself added a touch of humor to the lineup. The collaboration felt particularly meaningful for Dillane, who reminisced about selling his own printed T-shirts outside Bape’s New York store during his school days.

As Dillane took his bow, the energy in the room was electric. “I try to do the impossible every time,” he remarked at the end of the show, capturing the spirit of his brand. 

KidSuper’s blend of artistic vision and entrepreneurial ambition continues to make waves, offering a refreshing perspective at Paris Fashion Week. With his storm-themed spectacle, Dillane once again proved that fashion can be a powerful force for creativity and disruption.

Scroll down to see highlights from the Paris KidSuper Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection 













































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