Milan Fashion Week Autumn 2025: Canali’s Soigné New Collection and Homage to Brianza Craftsmanship

The new collection by luxury menswear label Canali in Milan, Italy. Photograph (above) by Anna Nguyen. Cover picture by Jay Zoo 

Canali's Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection launched at Milan Fashion Week, highlights the cultural and artisanal richness of the northern Italian region of Brianza, at the foot of the Alps, between Milan and Lake Como. Well known for its furniture production, the region inspired the presentation which was not just a showcase of fine tailoring but also a thoughtful exploration of how fashion and design intersect in a shared tradition of craftsmanship, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

American actor Ed Westwick attended

 the Canali presentation in Milan. 

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

HELD IN an immersive setting that resembled a luxurious lounge, Canali's new presentation invited the audience into an environment where high-quality materials and refined design met the comfort of home. Even Gossip Girl's suave Ed Westwick came to enjoy the show and experience the Italian savoir faire. 

The display, set up like a sophisticated residence, included armchairs designed by renowned Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen for Molteni. These armchairs, upholstered in Canali fabrics from the latest collection, were a striking representation of the intersection of the brand's fashion sensibilities and the furniture-making expertise found in the local area. The incorporation of these furniture pieces served as a subtle nod to the craftsmanship of Brianza.  

According to Stefano Canali, the president and CEO, this collection encapsulated the essence of the brand, including its history, high-quality fabrics and seasonal patterns. At the heart of it was the fusion of local design elements and high-end tailoring. Even the patterns found on the floor of the display, alongside the textures from the furniture pieces, were reflected in the garments. 

Canali's new presentation invited the audience into an environment where high-quality materials and refined design met the comfort of home

The design of the presentation as a luxurious 

living room with chairs by Vincent Van Duysen 

worked with the collection's design concept.

Photograph: Jay Zoo

The loose, belted coats, deconstructed suits, and fluid trenches had an undeniable loungewear-inspired feel, while still maintaining a polished appearance. 

These pieces were designed with a sense of relaxation in mind, making them suitable for both formal settings and more casual outings. Key design elements, like Donegal textures and diamond patterns, were prominently featured throughout the collection. 

These references were not only visible in the designs but also in the accompanying furniture and accessories. The soft and cocooning shapes of the pieces, paired with the use of materials such as alpaca, cashmere and Nappa leather, ensured that the collection struck a balance between luxurious comfort and sophistication. This focus on high quality materials is part of the company’s legacy, which spans more than 90 years, beginning with its founding in Triuggio in the 1930s. Since then, Canali has built a reputation for fine tailoring, using both traditional and cutting-edge techniques. 

The soft and cocooning shapes, paired with alpaca, cashmere and Nappa leather, ensured a balance between comfort and sophistication

Fluid and beautifully cut trenches and long coats 

gave the collection a relaxed yet sophisticated look.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Another aspect of this season's presentation was the sense of continuity between the garments and the environment in which they were showcased. The models in the setting, exuded a certain stylish relaxation and which suited the soigné surroundings. The underlying themes of craftsmanship and the local region are evident not only in the clothing but also in Canali’s broader business philosophy. 

In addition to the collection itself, Canali’s presentation was a reminder of how the brand has weathered changes in the international fashion landscape. From its beginnings as a small tailoring workshop in 1934 to its current status as a global luxury menswear brand, Canali has always managed to retain its Italian ethos. By continuing to pay homage to the craft of the Brianza region while integrating new design elements, Canali has successfully created a collection that resonates with both longstanding clients and new audiences. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from the Canali Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection in Milan

Milan Fashion Week. Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Canali: Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026, Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week. Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026; Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali, Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week: Fluid Forms and Fine Fabrics ~ Altea Debuts Womenswear Alongside Menswear

Italian label Altea debuted a womenswear collection at Milan Fashion Week. Photograph: Anna Nguyen. Cover picture by Jay Zoo

Among this season’s highlights at Milan Fashion Week was Altea, the storied Italian fashion house, whose latest collection redefines contemporary luxury with a new foray into womenswear. This milestone marks the Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection as an important moment for the label, blending signature Italian sophistication with an aesthetic that celebrates nature and craftsmanship. Story by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

Fine silks and cashmere are signatures of Altea.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

THE NEW ALTEA collection represents a significant expansion, introducing a womenswear line that reflects the brand’s sophistication while exploring new dimensions of design. 

Drawing inspiration from the beauty of nature, the collection offers a palette reminiscent of a forest at dusk. Warm mustard, rust, and deep greens merge harmoniously with mineral tones and understated neutrals, creating a narrative as serene as it is striking. 

Silhouettes have fluid forms with layered textures evoking both modernity and comfort. Knitwear emerges as the collection’s centerpiece, embodying the brand’s reputation for impeccable craftsmanship. From heavy cashmere shawl collar cardigans to lightweight Merino crewnecks, these pieces redefine the possibilities of knitwear as a versatile and stylish wardrobe staple. 

At the heart of Altea’s new collection lies a philosophy of mindful modernity, a concept that emphasizes thoughtful design and environmental responsibility. Each garment reflects a balance between grace and utility, allowing wearers to move from day to evening. Outerwear pieces, including reimagined classics and statement coats, highlight the brand’s focus on longevity. Meanwhile, shirts and tailored items push the boundaries of everyday formality with innovative cuts and luxurious fabrics. 

At the heart of Altea’s new collection lies a philosophy of mindful modernity, a concept that emphasizes thoughtful design and environmental responsibility

Voluminous, textural knitwear adds a luxurious 

feeling to the new womenswear collection.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen 

Altea’s commitment to sustainability is evident throughout the collection. The brand sources yarns from suppliers known for ethical practices, including Cariaggi for cashmere and Tintoria di Pollone for linen blends. 

The use of biodegradable materials and an emphasis on local production further reduce the environmental impact, evincing Altea’s commitment to sustainable fashion.  

Founded in 1892, Altea has long demonstrated Italy’s mastery of fine textile production. From its roots in men’s accessories, the brand has evolved into a label celebrated for its vibrant design. Altea has always utilized Italian artisanship, partnering with specialist suppliers in regions like Umbria and Marche, the heartlands of knitwear expertise.  

 

Central to Altea’s ethos is a meticulous approach to material selection. The brand sources natural fibres such as cashmere, alpaca, silk, and Egyptian cotton, each chosen for its superior qualities and sustainability. By working with ethically certified mills, the label ensures that its creations align with today's environmental standards. 

 

The label utilizes Italian artisanship, partnering with specialist suppliers in regions like Umbria and Marche, the heartlands of knitwear expertise 

Established in 1892, Altea has a long history

of working with Italian artisans. 

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

The Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection demonstrates the transformative power of beautiful materials. Cashmere, sourced from the undercoat of Himalayan goats, lends a velvety softness and natural thermoregulating properties to Altea’s knitwear. 

This luxurious fibre is elevated further through blends with silk, creating garments that are as lightweight as they are indulgent. 

Linen and alpaca are also favoured materials of the label. Linen's breathability and texture make it an ideal choice for layering, while alpaca’s hypoallergenic properties and durability provide warmth. Blended yarns, such as wool and cashmere combinations, showcase the brand’s ability to harness the best qualities of each material, delivering garments that are functional and refined. 

As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact, Altea aims to be a responsible manufacturer. The brand’s localized production network in Italy minimizes carbon emissions, while partnerships with mills like Filmar and Zegna Baruffa emphasize traceability and ethical practices. 

A holistic approach reflects a respect for the natural world and a vision for a more sustainable future in fashion. 

The presentation in Milan was an atmospheric event

that was a rich backdrop for the new collection

Photograph: Jay Zoo

By choosing biodegradable fibres and avoiding harmful chemicals, Altea creates clothing that is both kind to the planet as well as being luxurious. 

 

Beyond the sustainability of materials, the label fosters long-term relationships with its suppliers, so there is consistency across collections. This holistic approach reflects a respect for the natural world and a vision for a more sustainable future in fashion. 

This seasons' debut of Altea’s womenswear collection signals a new direction for the brand, one that is grounded in its rich heritage. By blending the artistry of Italian craftsmanship with a forward-thinking ethos, Altea continues to redefine contemporary luxury. As Milan Fashion Week celebrates the best of global fashion, Altea still signifies Italian finesse. 

Scroll down to see highlights from the Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Menswear & Womenswear collection

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph; Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea, Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph; Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026; Altea. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea.Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Altea. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Menswear Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Best of Streetstyle by Jay Zoo and Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week: Pietro De Nardi’s Seventies Serenade ~ A New Era for 1989 Studio

In Milan, the 1989 Studio collection was presented in an abstract space with a dash of Seventies style. Photograph: Jay Zoo. Cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn

Against a striking red backdrop adorned with a stylized rotary telephone and a transistor radio, 1989 Studio unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2025-26 presentation at Milan Fashion Week. It signaled a new direction under the creative leadership of Pietro De Nardi, marking a significant departure from the labels’s roots. The phone served as an invitation to dial into the era that inspired the collection: the eclectic and energetic 1970s. Story by Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

A stylized phone represents

dialing into another era,

with voluminous jackets

and jeans. Photo: Jay Zoo

THE NEW COLLECTION by 1989 Studio builds on the brand’s established streetwear reputation while moving toward a modern, vintage glamour. Founded in Los Angeles in 2021 by Chaz A. Jordan, the label was acquired by the Italian retail group Folli Follie. 

After the exit of the American, Pietro De Nardi was appointed as creative director in May 2024. The Italian designer's extensive career includes roles with luxury fashion houses such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton and Max Mara and reflects the group’s intention to evolve the label beyond its streetwear origins. 

De Nardi's new collection draws from the Seventies, a decade of bold self-expression and vibrant counter culture. 

He captures the period with tailored double-breasted suits featuring flared trousers and elongated jackets that evoke disco nights and cinematic style. Overcoats crafted in bouclé and wool offer sophistication, while velvet varsity jackets with embroidered details bring a touch of youthful nostalgia. 

 

Designs include oversized silhouettes and sleek proportions tailored to the individual rather than adhering to a one-size-fits-all unisex aesthetic. A standout aspect of the collection is the innovative reimagining of workwear and sportswear. Overalls crafted from canvas blend utility with style, while suede zip-up jackets featuring cashmere-blend teddy linings offer a luxurious twist on hoodies. 

Tracksuits inspired by the wardrobe of legendary boxer Cassius Clay stand alongside chenille polo shirts inspired by cinema icons, creating a dialogue between athleticism and elegance. Denim plays a central role, with wide-leg styles featuring distressed finishes or patchwork details that pay homage to music legends of the past. 

Pietro De Nardi's debut collection draws from the Seventies, a decade of bold self-expression and vibrant counterculture 

A varsity look with a cap and t-shirt

and a well-cut jacket. Photo: Jay Zoo

Knitwear, borrowing from sweatshirt designs, includes jogging suits rendered in wool and cotton blends, embodying comfort and craftsmanship. The collection’s use of materials, from textured leathers to technical nylons and velvets, demonstrates a commitment to quality and a fresh perspective on classic textiles. 

The palette reflects the warmth and vibrancy of the 1970s. Shades like burgundy, sage green, caramel, and chocolate brown are complemented by dashes of soft pink, electric blue, and fiery red. These hues enhance the nostalgic feel of the collection but with a contemporary edge. 

Accessories complete the look, bridging the past and present with thoughtful details. From leather caps featuring vintage graphics to knee pads reminiscent of rock icons’ stage performances, the accessories add personality and a sense of play. Ankle boots and loafers crafted in corduroy-inspired suede or tweed finish the ensembles with a touch of elegance. 

This collection not only marks the arrival of Pietro De Nardi as creative director but also represents a broader evolution for 1989 Studio. Under its American founder, the brand carved out a niche in the world of high-end streetwear. With the Italian designer at the helm, the focus has shifted toward a more nuanced approach that embraces Italian heritage, a vintage ethos along with a splash of contemporary cool. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from 1989 Studio presentation at Milan Fashion Week 

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autum/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26. 1989 Studio. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Wek Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen