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| The delicate folds of the Eau series featured in the new Issey Miyake collection shown in Paris. Cover picture and main photograph by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
In the midst of Paris' Parc Floral, Issey Miyake's Spring/Summer 2025 collection titled The Beauty of Paper was a quiet yet rather profound exploration of one of the world’s simplest materials. Artistic director Satoshi Kondo's captivating design and craftsmanship took paper, something so commonplace it fades into the background of our daily lives, and transformed it into a conduit for creativity and reflection, writes Anna Nguyen. Photography by Elli Ioannou
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The seats at the show made from cylinders of paper with the show notes on top. |
The storied Japanese fashion house's research into this omnipresent material delves into not only its technical properties but also the emotions and sensations it can bring. What makes paper ~ something so simple ~ evoke feelings of purity, comfort, and even nostalgia? Kondo’s exploration begins from this question, evolving into a poetic meditation on the significance of paper in human life.
The set design featured stools made from compressed paper sheet cylinders, once used in the brand’s famous pleating process, and recycled into functional seats for the event. These stools, marbled to mimic the growth rings of tree trunks, subtly nodded to the passage of time, a theme woven throughout the entire collection.
It was a gentle reminder that while fashion is ever-changing, the materials and traditions we draw from are deeply rooted in history. The designs coming out on the runway constructed from a mix of washi and rayon-silk flakes, called the Fold to Form series, reimagine the traditional techniques of origami, an art form that shares paper’s humble roots, to create angular, three-dimensional designs.
The result is a blend of structure and softness, where precise, box-like forms
draped with the fluidity that could only be achieved through Satoshi Kondo's innovative use of washi fabric. Each piece moves with the body, adapting its
rigidity to the wearer’s form, displaying a tension between control and freedom
that highlighted the designer's mastery of the material.
The set design featured stools made from compressed paper sheet cylinders, marbled to mimic the growth rings of tree trunks, recycled into functional seats for the show
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The Ease series of designs made from washi paper, hemp, mohair and wool, draping beautifully on the body. |
These garments emphasized a softness both in texture and in movement, giving the collection an ethereal, dream-like quality: a testament to the idea that paper, though often perceived as static, can also mimic the fluidity of nature.
One of the standout moments in the collection was the presentation of the Ease and Eased series, which paid homage to the traditional Japanese kamiko: clothing made from washi paper that dates back over a millennium. These pieces, crafted from a blend of hemp yarn, mohair, and wool, were designed to drape naturally over the body.
The rawness of the hemp gives the garments an organic texture, while the mix of yarns provide warmth and depth to the otherwise light and airy silhouettes. The subtle color variations in the fabric emphasize the handcraftsmanship behind each piece, blending the historical significance of kamiko with contemporary design sensibilities.
In another nod to the past, the Hempen section showcased the use of hemp, a material that has been intertwined with both paper and clothing in Japan for centuries. These garments were not only a reflection on the durability and sustainability of hemp but also an exploration of its natural comfort and lightness. Dyed and coated to suit the demands of modern life, the pieces in this series balanced tradition with functionality, demonstrating Kondo's commitment to creating garments that speak to both Japanese heritage and modern living.
One of the standout moments in the collection was the Ease and Eased series, which paid homage to the traditional Japanese kamiko: clothing made from washi paper that dates back over a millennium.
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The Wear and Worn designs, the most playful and transformative in the collection. |
Utilizing seamless knitting technology, Kondo presented garments that could be worn in multiple ways, inviting wearers to engage with their clothing in new and unexpected manners.
By reversing the front and back, or passing the body through different openings, each piece could be transformed into something entirely new, offering a sense of freedom and playfulness. This series encapsulates the storied Japanese fashion house's ethos: blending technology with craft, and innovation.The beauty of Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection wasn’t just in the garments themselves, but also in the meticulous attention to detail evident throughout the show.
Further integrating the natural world into the collection, the Pressed Flora series featured delicate prints of spring flowers like peonies and ranunculus, their fragile beauty preserved as between the pages of a book. The pressing process resulted in slight creases across the fabric, mimicking the imperfections of nature. This deliberate technique emphasized the vulnerability and transience of the flowers, much like the fragility of paper itself.
The collection’s use of paper was not just limited to inspiration or symbolism. The Paper Bag series, inspired by everyday paper bags, utilized woven yarns made from washi flakes to create bags with the texture and lightness of paper, yet durable enough for daily use. These pieces exemplified the intersection of art and utility, a core tenet of the Issey Miyake’s philosophy.
Utilizing seamless knitting technology, Kondo presented garments that could be worn in multiple ways, inviting wearers to engage with their clothing in new and unexpected ways
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The Cloth and Cord pieces are airy and light with a fluidity. secured by cotton ropes. |
The blend of linen and stretch yarns is skillfully woven into a soft, pliable material, offering a light, airy texture. The fabric, gently gathered and secured with ropes, creates a fluid, relaxed drape that exudes a laid-back, yet crafted sophistication. The result is a collection that balances rustic simplicity with refined craftsmanship.
Closing the collection was the Shade and Shaded, where sheer fabrics folded diagonally and partially pleated created garments that oscillated between transparency and structure. The contrast of light and shadow, transparency and opacity, encapsulated the collection’s central theme: the duality of paper as both a delicate, ephemeral material and a tool of permanence and utility.
The Beauty of Paper is a collection that transcends the idea of fashion as mere clothing. It is a meditation on materiality, history, and craftsmanship, all framed within the context of our fast-paced world.
By turning to paper ~ something so ubiquitous yet often overlooked ~ Satoshi Kondo invites us to slow down, reflect, and find beauty in the simplicity of the things that surround us every day. In doing so, the collection not only honors the past but also offers a glimpse into the future of sustainable and thoughtful design.
See more highlights from the Issey Miyake SS25 collection in Paris below:
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