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Models follow the sinuous lines of Shiatzy Chen's Paris SS25 runway with its giant pen at the centre, suggesting the motif of the show. Photograph by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
At Paris' iconic Palais de Tokyo, Shiatzy Chen’s Spring/Summer 2025 merged ancient artistry with contemporary fashion in a masterful celebration of the written word. For the designer, the pen is more than a writing tool, she makes it a symbol of creativity, where tradition meets modernity, and East fuses with West in an inspiring narrative expressed through form and texture, writes Anna Nguyen. Photography by Elli Ioannou
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The delicacy and fluidity of translucent silk, shimmering sequins and floating feathers were highlights of the collection. |
The collection’s silhouettes echo the fluidity of brushstrokes, and from the first model’s stride, the designs are meant to feel as though each movement forms part of a calligraphic painting unfolding on the runway.
The Paris show opened with a flourish, the models gliding down the runway, following a sinuous ink trail. Each look was deliberate, yet free-spirited, mirroring the precision and spontaneity of calligraphy. The flowing fabrics and delicate details created a dance between past and future, tradition and innovation.
Soft neutrals dominated the palette with shades of celadon, khaki, and yellow creating a tranquil backdrop, offset by bold dashes of shimmering black. Amid these tones, flashes of translucent red emerged like accents of passion, embodying the dynamic contrast between light and dark, flexibility and strength.
Each look was deliberate, yet free-spirited, mirroring the precision and spontaneity of calligraphy.
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Gauzy fabrics draped beautifully, suggested the movement of the body beneath. |
At the heart of Shiatzy Chen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection are two symbolic figures: the dragonfly and the iris. The dragonfly, with its seeming weightless agility is beautifully designed and accented by topaz, black onyx, and mother-of-pearl.
The iris, a flower often linked to creativity, bloomed across the garments through intricate embroidery, infusing each piece with a sense of movement and life.
The craftsmanship extended to the accessories, where the pen was translated into sleek, sophisticated designs.
Asymmetrical earrings and waist chains mimicked the fluid curves of brushstrokes, while metal heels added a sharp, modern edge. Shiatzy Chen’s signature jade bangle handles returned in this collection, this time reimagined as the Paint Brush Jade Bangle, suggesting the calligraphy brush.
Though forward-thinking, Shiatzy Chen’s collection also paid homage to the 1920s, with nods to the straight silhouettes and low-waisted cuts of the era. The modernized versions of cummerbunds and diagonal lapel vests brought a luxurious twist to these retro-inspired pieces, blending them seamlessly with the collection’s futuristic elements.
Light woolen tassels flowed, while delicate layers of gauze and silk seemed to move as effortlessly as the tip of a writing brush.
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Shiatzy Chen's showed her signature fusion of East and West in the new collection in Paris. |
From the brushstroke-like curvature of metal heels to the sleek, minimalist lines of angled collars, the collection aimed to embody the quiet power of the pen.
Since Shiatzy Chen’s debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2008, the brand has established itself as a force on the international fashion scene. With clients ranging from celebrities like Victoria Beckham and Elizabeth Hurley to influential Taiwanese figures, Shiatzy Chen’s designs have gained a loyal following worldwide.
The brand’s continued presence on the Paris runway, including this latest show at the Palais de Tokyo, solidifies its reputation as a bridge between cultures and eras.
For this season, Taiwanese designer has once again demonstrated her ability to take inspiration from Chinese culture and translate it into fashion that speaks to a global audience. The pen may be mightier than the sword, but in Shiatzy Chen’s hands, it is also mightier than fabric, crafting not only garments but new fashion stories.
Scroll down to see more highlights from Shiatzy Chen SS25:
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |