The Artistry of Yuima Nakazato: Backstage in Paris

Backstage at the Utakata haute couture show by Yuima Nakazato, at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. Main photograph (above) by Andrea Heinsohn and cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM

In Paris, we take a behind-the-scenes look at Yuima Nakazato’s preparations for his haute couture show. From the quiet, early morning streets of Le Marais our team embarked on a whirlwind journey to capture the essence of the Japanese designer’s collection at the iconic Palais de Tokyo. The backstage tumult, the meticulous preparation, and the electrifying moments of the runway were all part of the spectacle that unfolded, culminating in a post-show flurry of interviews and celebration. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

The sun rising on a winter morning in Paris,

 during haute couture week. 

Photograph: JM Cilento

A wintry dawn breaks across a pale blue sky in Paris, streaks of pink turning orange across the mansard roofs. Tall 18th century windows look over the last of the snow covering the green lawn of an elegant garden created by André Le Nôtre in Le Marais. 

It is a barbarically early hour to get ready to leave for a fashion show during haute couture week. However, today the DAM magazine team are going to shoot the backstage preparation of the Japanese couturier Yuima Nakazato.

Stepping from an enclosed courtyard into Rue Beaubourg opposite the Pompidou Centre, there are few people about except rugged-up figures in long coats and hats, clutching paper bags of croissants and pain au chocolat, hurrying home for a café au lait. Walking quickly to the metro and descending into the warmth of the underground, it is already crowded with people going to work.

We only have a minute to wait before the train whooshes into the République station and we join the throngs pressed together inside. Standing up, we have twelve stations to go to reach the Iéna stop and walk to the Palais de Tokyo, where many fashion shows are held.

Dawn is a barbarically early hour to get ready to leave for a fashion show during haute couture week but we are shooting backstage 

Make-up artist with a model before 

Yuima Nakazato's evocative show. 

Photograph: Andréa Heinsohn

Mending our way through the crowds at the station, we climb the endless stairs in the Paris Metro and look at all of the exit signs to different streets to work out which is the quickest to reach Avenue du Président-Wilson. A wide, elegant boulevard, it leads to the Palais de Tokyo, in the16th arrondissement of Paris. 

Walking up to the columned building, the scale and height are imposing and reflect that it was built in 1937 and originally called the Palais des Musées d'Art Moderne. Under the canopy of the looming columns are temporary signs for other fashion designers, pointing in opposite directions of the huge complex. 

We discover the one for Yuima Nakazato and find ourselves in an anteroom with two assistants who have sheets of listed names of those allowed “backstage” before and after the show. Our photographers, Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn, have already checked in and have started shooting. The show is being held in the Saut du Loup show space below. We gingerly descend down a steep, circular set of steps hearing a buzz of voices and the rush of movement floating up from the rooms underneath.

Built as a modern art gallery in 1937, the Palais de Tokyo has an imposing, columned entrance 

The models are shot in their full look

with a red and white background, 

reflecting the theme of the show.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

We arrive in a big open space with make-up artists, hair stylists, photographers, dressers and models all in different sections getting ready. 

Yuima Nakazato’s garments are hung with the picture and name of each model and there are tables of his sculptural ceramic jewellery that are designed especially for each look.

Another part of this cavernous, high-ceilinged room is set up with a white background sheet covered in dashes of blood-red, which the models will be photographed against for the lookbook, after the show. 

Yuima Nakazato is like a wraith, moving between backstage and the show space as he oversees all of the details. A neat figure in a stylish, charcoal jacket with his black hair pulled back, he keeps a close eye on all of the varied aspects of the preparation. He dashes between adjusting his designs on each model and going out to the runway to watch how the models, music and choreography are working.

A neat figure in a stylish, charcoal jacket, with his black hair pulled back, Nakazato keeps a close eye on all of the varied aspects of the show

A single, silvery tear (in make-up) glistens on the cheek 

of a model backstage. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The designer has a small camera that he carries with him, slung across his shoulder to capture his own eye view of the preparations. 

He appears calm, focused and reserved but beneath the tranquil surface he must be feeling nervous about presenting another expressive show, one he has been thinking about and working on for months.

Dynamic CCO Bradly Dunn Klerks leads us through the long, white curtains separating the backstage from the show room where the collection will be staged. Low, white benches line the walls and wait ready for the guests who will arrive in two short hours. The floors are covered in drop sheets to protect them until the show opens. Photographers are already gathered at one end of the runway, finding the best spots and adjusting their equipment.

As the models come out, Yuima's designs look romantic, otherworldly, the voluminous silhouettes and graceful folds, falling in fluid lines down the body. A monochromatic palette in sombre hues of dark greys, olive and black give the collection a tenebrous atmosphere. Making mysterious arm movements, like pointing upwards as they walk, the models are adjusted by a producer and observed closely by the designer.

The designs look romantic, otherworldly, the voluminous silhouettes and graceful folds, falling in fluid lines down the body 

Tsubasa Hori practices with dancer Pau Aran

before the show. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Musician and composer Tsubasa Hori is a virtuoso of the traditional Japanese drum, taiko, along with piano, voice and the Koto harp.

 

She practices her piano and vocals as the models walk the runway under the red lights. Spanish Barcelona-born dancer Pau Aran Gimeno enters the runway and begins to practice his writhing, expressive dance created by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui. 

The award-winning Belgian choreographer is the director of the Geneva Ballet and the performance of Mozart's Idomeneo with costumes by Yuima Nakazato.

During the haute couture show, Pau Aran Gimeno will wear all white and step into the central pool of red that will then form bloodied steps along the catwalk as he dances along it.

The cameraman with the bulky Steadicam follows every movement. When the circular basin is latter filled with red, it will make a dramatic contrast against the white runway and subtly represent the Japanese flag.  

Musician and composer Tsubasa Hori is a virtuoso of the traditional Japanese drum, taiko, along with piano and voice

The models go through their paces and 

practice the mysterious hand movements.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn. 

Show producers with earpieces line the models up behind the diaphanous curtains as they get ready to do a full rehearsal of the show. They walk in order, fully dressed apart from some of the jewellery and body art, with make up including a glistening tear drop on the cheek. 

Perhaps a sorrowful reference to the state of our planet. Yuima Nakazato is committed to creating new ways of making fashion which will have less of an impact on our environment.

Meanwhile, the designer stands quietly at the side of the runway, observing how his vision and all of its many threads finally starts to come together as a finished tapestry. 

The models have a choregraphed piece at the finale of the show created by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui where they hold their hands pointing to the ceiling or come together to touch like a Renaissance dance.

Backstage, the last touches are being made to make-up and hair as the models are put in order of their entrance. The taped drop sheets are taken up from the floor and the pristine white revealed with the basin of red.

The show space is bathed in red light and there is a palpable sense of anticipation. The first guests are allowed to enter and begin to take their seats. A hum of conversation fills the air as journalists and buyers who see each other at many of the other designers’ shows catch up. There is a sense of camaraderie in sharing the excitement, as Yuima Nakazato is known for his unexpected, original shows with their element of fashion poetry.

As the taped drop sheets are taken up from the floor and pristine white revealed, the show space is bathed in red light and there is a palpable sense of anticipation 

Like a modern Renaissance dance, the 

models come together at the finale. 

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

All goes quiet as the music begins and Tsubasa Hori beats her drum and the first model walks out in a long olive and black tunic, hand raised. The show is engaging and thrilling with the crescendo of Pau Aran Gimeno's dance in the pool of red and then along the catwalk. This is followed by the models coming together afterwards, facing each other in a long row, hands raised and joined.

The applause is rapturous as Yuima runs out and pulls a brush from his jacket and dips it in the red pool, signing his name. He makes a deep bow and then runs back down the catwalk to disappear backstage.

It may be a leisurely entrance to fashion shows by guests, but once they are over there is a race to the exit to get to the next show, catching the Paris Fashion Week shuttle bus outside ~ which doesn't wait long. Soon the Saut de Loup is empty except for the photographers packing up at one end, a few people lingering to absorb what they have just experienced. 

Backstage it is all action as the models are photographed for the lookbook and then change back into their own clothes, Amid the commotion, Yuima Nakazato begins a long series of interviews with journalists from all over the world, switching from his creative mind to focusing on answering questions about his work. You can see his face changing from the introverted concentration of putting on his show to a more expansive expression as he has to talk about what he has just created. There is an air of relief and celebration as the presentation of the collection is over and is a great success.

The show is engaging and thrilling with the crescendo of Pau Aran Gimeno's expressive dance in the pool of red 

Designer Yuima Nakazato is interviewed 

after his show by France 24.

Photograph: JM Cilento  

The DAM team come together and we decide that we have enough shots and interviews and take our leave of the designer and his team. 

Climbing up the stairs and out into the cold, fresh air, we breathe deeply and look around to see that since we have been at Yuima Nakazato's show, large crowds have gathered outside the main doors to the Palais de Tokyo.

People stand a dozen deep, holding their phones up behind rows of professional photographers and fashionistas. 

We look up and see Jennifer Lopez arriving at the top of the stairs for the next show that is about to begin. She turns slowly to face the crowds, clustered below, on either side of her. She gives a fleeting glimpse of her swishing long, floriate cape and Sixties-style hair, waves as people shout out "JLo!" for her to turn the other way, before disappearing inside to another world of fashion. 

The frenetic flock soon disperse, and we start walking back up Avenue du Président-Wilson, stopping to look across Paris to the Eiffel Tower, a fretworked iron citadel against an azure sky. The models from Yuima Nakazato's show catch us up, wearing their everyday clothes but still with the elaborate make-up and hair. Smoking and laughing they stop for a photograph with us before they head off into the winter gloaming to their next runway.

Scroll down to see more highlights backstage in Paris from Yuima Nakazato's Utakata haute couture collection

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the  Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Ell Ioannou

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Behind-the-scenes in Paris at Yuima Nakazato’s Utakata haute couture show for Spring/Summer 2024 at the Palais de Tokyo. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Desert Dreams in Paris: Stéphane Rolland's Haute Couture Odyssey

Stéphane Rolland's muse Nieves Álvarez in charcoal silk gazar with braided leather encrusted with crystals. Photograph: Elli Ioannou for DAM

From the serene vastness of desert landscapes to Berber cultural influences, the inspirations for French couturier Stéphane Rolland's Spring/Summer 2024 collection captivates the senses with a rich tapestry of textures, colours, and silhouettes. The collaboration this season with emerging talent from French fashion schools also added another layer of depth and continuity to his work in haute couture. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento and Elli Ioannou. Research by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn 

Stephane Rolland takes a bow with Ibrahim Maalouf 

muse Nieves Álvarez. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

THE Art Deco Salle Pleyel, the 1927 concert hall in Paris' 8th arrondissement, is a dramatic space to hold a fashion show. Walking into the columned entrance rotunda filled with guests attending the collection, there is an air of excitement and anticipation.

Stairs lead up to a cavernous, dark auditorium called the Great Hall, with staff wearing earpieces, helping people find their seats. 

A long, broad runway stretches out from the stage in the midst of the audience, like a path of golden sand. A phalanx of photographers is at the back of the theatre, all jockeying for a good position. 

A hum of conversation rises as the theatre fills up, with some guests wearing Stéphane Rolland creations from head-to-toe. As the audience settles, the lights are dimmed and the couturier himself comes on stage to introduce the 20 students from French fashion schools who will present their work before his own haute couture show. 

The show is an immersive experience with sound and visuals including a film of undulating dunes and vast skies mixed with the call of eagles, whistling winds and evocative music

Cape-sleeved gown in terracotta silk jersey.

Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland's work with French fashion schools ESMOD and the Institut Francais de la Mode is exciting and inspiring for the students. By showcasing fashion conceived by them, alongside his own creations, the French couturier emphasizes the importance of transmitting knowledge and experience.

The master classes and mentorship provided to these budding designers reflect Rolland's commitment to nurturing new talent and ensuring that the artistry of haute couture continues. 

As renowned artists have done in the past, the couturier's offer to stage the work of these aspiring designers, allows their creativity to shine alongside his. As music fills the concert hall, models walk out wearing the students' designs. Many of the student ensembles look accomplished with some standout pieces that would be at home on any Paris couture runway. 

La Salle Pleyel is also a fittingly historic backdrop for Stéphane Rolland's own creations which combine fine artisanship with futuristic design. The audience is given an immersive experience with sound and visuals including a projected film of soft sands, undulating dunes and vast skies mixed with the calls of eagles, whistling winds and music. 

Stephane Rolland's collaboration with French fashion schools emphasizes the importance of transmitting knowledge to the next generation of couturiers 

Saroul jumpsuit with cape sleeves in white silk

gazar, worn with a bronze, diamond and 

topaz pendant. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rolland's designs with their free-flowing fluidity and glimmering fabrics work well with the atmospheric desert background. His work demonstrates his masterly fusion of tradition and innovation. One of the key pieces is a sand-hued, satin crepe gown adorned with black braids. 

There is a delicate dance of textures, colors, and inspirations drawn from the desert terrain.

The essence of Rolland's vision lies in his concept of fullness and volume which creates a cocoon of protection. These commodious dresses are mixed with long, shimmering sheathes that sparkle and catch the light, hugging the body.

Each of the designs is imbued with a sense of protection and revelation, as if the wearer is surrounded by comforting layers of fabric that both simultaneously conceal and reveal. Overall, the color palette mirrors the hues of dawn, from warm ochres to delicate pinks, creams and whites, creating a congenial tonal picture.  

The collection unfolds like a journey through shifting landscapes, from a terracotta-hued cashmere burnous that evokes the warmth of desert sunsets to an oversized hooded tunic in rosewood gazar that capture the feeling of a blowing, desert wind. 

Rolland's designs with their free-flowing fluidity and glimmering fabrics demonstrate his masterly fusion of tradition and innovation

Sensuous satin crepe worn with a braided

leather hood and a striking diamond and 

emerald jewel. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The designer has an East meets West ethos in his designs that he keeps in fine balance, as evidenced by the intricate melding of cultural influences in all of the garments. 

The use of materials like gossamer satin, buffed steel, and lustrous gazar add depth and texture, while gold and silver pieces show Rolland's sure hand when integrating dramatic jewellery into his designs. 

One of the standout gowns is an asymmetrical caramel silk creation with a big, hooded top like a Berber nomad.  

Silk gazar is one of the favourite fabrics used by Rolland in all of his collections, as it is able to hold its shape due to the double yarns woven together to create a strong yet lightweight, glistening textile. Originally, gazar was developed by couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga who often used the fabric in his 1960s collections. 

Sculptural jewellery is another signature of the French couturier's work and is crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Adorned with chiseled stones and gold calligraphy, the pieces show the skills of Rolland's chosen silversmiths and add an element of extravagance to each gown. The accessories all add glamour and modernity to the looks. Many of Rolland's designs for garments and jewels show the influence of contemporary architecture on his work, a subject he is passionate about. 

Silk gazar is one of the couturier's favourite fabrics as it holds its shape due to the woven double yarns which create a strong yet lightweight, glistening textile

Blue organza robe embroidered with a gold
totem design. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

As the sun sets and dusk descends in the projected film on the stage in the Salle Pleyel, the collection takes on a deeper, more introspective tone. 

Rich Tuareg blue hues dominate the runway, symbolizing twilight in the desert. The intricate embroidery and sparkling embellishments are luxurious, while tribal-inspired motifs create a sense of connection to ancient traditions. 

The models wearing a scintillating Majorelle blue walk out for the finale, some gowns finished with gold totemic designs, the diaphanous feel enhanced by silk organza and jersey.  When they turn back along the golden runway, Rolland's longtime muse Nieves Álvarez appears on the stage in the striking Medea dress which has a hood in charcoal silk gazar embellished with crystal-encrusted leather.

As Alvarez returns to the wings, the stage darkens and smoke rises from the runway. The famous French-Lebanese trumpeter Ibrahim Maalouf appears on stage and plays a very evocative piece of music as a girl in a spectacular cape appears. The rippling, capacious cape dress is created from bark-brown gazar with billowing, raffia fringes embroidered with crystals.

The flowing gowns adorned with exquisite jewelry, transport the audience to a world where art and fashion merge, offering moments of magic that linger 

Ibrahim Maalouf plays the trumpet at the finale.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Maalouf walks around the model playing his trumpet as a spotlight highlights them, smoke rising up like a sandstorm from the runway. Then the stage is once more engulfed by darkness before lights come up as all the models appear, glittering and glimmering in a long row of deep blues, gold and silver. 

One by one they walk down the centre of the catwalk that extends into the audience, as the sun sets behind them in the film. The models line each side of the wide runway, like waiting sentinels. 

Stéphane Rolland and Ibrahim Maalouf arrive on the stage and walk along the catwalk until they meet Nieves Álvarez where he stops and gallantly kisses her hand. The applause is enthusiastic as the audience appreciate both the designer's work and the beautiful production of the haute couture show. 

The new collection is a journey of discovery, a celebration of creativity, and a testament to the skill and imagination imbued in the best of haute couture. 

As each model gracefully traverses the runway, draped in flowing gowns and adorned with exquisite jewelry, the audience is transported to a world where art and fashion merge. The show offered captivating, contemporary designs but also moments of magic and inspiration that linger long after the finale at the Salle Pleyel.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Stpehane Rolland's SS24 Paris Haute Couture Collection 

Stéphane Rolland Paris Haute Couture La Salle Pleyel Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Stéphane Rolland, Paris Haute Couture, La Salle Pleyel, Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi's Colourful and Dynamic Collection for Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024

Raffia used in a creative way at the SS24 haute couture collection of Imane Ayissi in Paris. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM

Imane Ayissi’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection was a highlight of Paris Haute Couture Week. A tribute to the richness of African textiles and craftsmanship, the Cameroonian designer mixed brilliant colours with strong prints, diaphanous silhouettes, and unique textiles. He included traditional fabrics, illustrating how they can be used to preserve Africa’s heritage and inspire the next generation, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Elli Ioannou & Andrea Heinsohn

Designer Imane Ayissi at the finale of his Paris 

show.Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

A vivid and engaging celebration of African textiles, Imane Ayissi's new collection of dynamic designs was a standout during Paris Haute Couture Week.

With the collection, Ayissi wove a story that beautifully intertwined tradition with contemporary haute couture. 

The runway pulsated with bright colors, under Ayissi's sure hand the purples, shimmering pinks and turquoise formed a cohesive whole and made a salient contrast to the all-black designs. 

The collection showcased twenty-six looks that cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping which enfolded the body. Ayissi's use of traditional African fabrics, was notable, particularly the Kente cloth from Ghana. Narrow skirts topped by short but voluminous jackets were especially effective using the African textiles. 

The collection showcased twenty-six looks which cleverly mixed surprising fabric combinations with bold prints and elegant draping

Traditional African fabrics were a feature
of the collection. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

The designer's use of Faso Dan Fani, a traditional fabric from Burkina Faso, was included in patchwork designs that had a subtle play of hues and textures. 

The collection also featured panels of woven materials and the use of raffia, another everyday material that is part of Ayissi's design canon. A vibrant orange minidress with raffia knotted down the front demonstrated the designer's capacity to use quotidian materials for haute couture.

Imane Ayissi's dedication to using and exploring African textiles means he is aiming to find high-quality materials from Africa. He is also a pioneer in integrating bamboo fibre into his work as part of his concern for the environment.  

The designer, who was the first from Sub-Saharan Africa to be included on the official Paris Haute Couture Week schedule four years ago, says he wants to recover and preserve Africa's textile heritage. Ayissi has said Africans need to embrace their history along with the economic potential of the fashion industry. 

Ayissi is challenging the fashion industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage

The striking raffia orange minidress.
Photograph by Elli Ioannou

This Spring/Summer 2024 collection captivated the audience but also served as a call for the conservation and promotion of Africa's textiles. 

The designer's ability to use satins and silks with these local fabrics to create soigne gowns evinces his ability to bring a fresh vision to haute couture. 

As a couturier, Ayissi is not just creating fashion; he is leading a movement, challenging the industry to recognize the value of Africa's textile expertise and encouraging Africans to take pride in their identity and heritage.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Imane Ayissi's Spring/Summer 2024 collection in Paris 

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn 

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Elli Ioannou

Imane Ayissi Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn