NEXT MONTH, the Museum of Lace and Fashion bids farewell to the exhibition celebrating the artistry of Yuima Nakazato.
The show is more than a
retrospective, rather an exploration of how the designer bridges the past,
present, and future through his poetic and technologically innovative approach
to fashion.
In a meticulously curated space that blends futurism with
history, visitors encounter fifty of Nakazato’s most evocative garments,
accompanied by sketches, technical drawings, fabric samples, and multimedia
installations that unravel his creative process.
More than just an exhibition, the show explores how Nakazato is reshaping the foundations of couture
to meet the demands of a changing world.
Curated in collaboration with the designer, the show sheds light on the key elements that define his work. One highlight is Nakazato’s use of lace, a nod to the museum’s own legacy as a bastion of craftsmanship. In his hands, this traditional material is transformed, layered into designs that feel at once delicate and robust, ephemeral and enduring. His experimental textiles, offer tangible proof of how cutting-edge technologies can honour age-old craftsmanship.
Nakazato’s work not only attests to his aesthetic innovation but also philosophical transformation. His work challenges the fashion industry to rethink its priorities, advocating for a model that values sustainability, emotional resonance, and inclusivity. In his vision, couture is not an exclusive club but a space for collective exploration: a laboratory where the old and the new, the personal and the universal, converge.
More than just an exhibition, the show evinces how Nakazato is reshaping the foundations of couture to meet the demands of a changing world.
 |
Nakazato's ground-breaking designs for the Cosmos collection, Spring/Summer 2020
|
The designer's approach is as much about connection as it is about innovation. He views clothing not merely as fabric and form but as a vessel of emotional resonance. “Each garment,” Nakazato has said, “should create a unique bond with its wearer.”
This belief underpins his bespoke approach to couture, where each piece tells a personal story, resonating with both its creator and the individual it adorns.
Yet, while his creations evoke the ethereal elegance synonymous with couture, they also embody a deeper purpose ~ an urgent call for a sustainable future.
As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, Nakazato has become a pioneer in exploring new ways of creating sustainable couture. By integrating materials like upcycled textiles and industrial waste into his designs, he challenges the notion of luxury, proving that beauty and responsibility can coexist.
One of his most revolutionary ventures lies in the development of new textiles and processes. Collaborating with scientists and engineers, Nakazato has harnessed technologies such as 3D printing and biofabrication to create textiles from fermented bacteria. These innovations not only reduce waste but also explore the potential for garments to be crafted without reliance on traditional resources.
As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, the Japanese designer is a leader in developing new ways of creating sustainable couture
 |
The sinuous drapery and fluted pleating of a piece from the Blue collection, Autumn/Winter 2022-2023 |
Nature often serves as Nakazato’s muse, inspiring collections that echo the grandeur and fragility of the natural world. From the haunting melodies of whales to the fiery drama of volcanic lava, his designs are steeped in his respect for the planet.
This connection is entwined with his Japanese heritage, where the aesthetics of simplicity and the philosophy of interconnectedness permeate his work. The result is a poetic marriage of natural elements and futuristic forms: a vision of couture that feels both connected to the past and yet ahead of its time.
Nakazato’s career trajectory has been
as enterprising as his designs. A graduate of the prestigious Antwerp Royal
Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium, he quickly established himself as a force to
be reckoned with. His final collection introduced intricate origami techniques into wearable art and he earned the academy’s coveted Innovation Award in 2008.
This early recognition set the tone for a career characterized by ingenuity, experimentation, and a commitment to redefining haute couture. Nakazato’s invitation to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week in 2016, an honour granted by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, allowed him to join the ranks of celebrated and established couturiers in Paris. He also became only the second Japanese designer, after the legendary Hanae Mori, to participate on the official schedule of Paris Haute Couture.
Through a
combination of ancient Japanese techniques and cutting-edge technology,
Nakazato crafts garments that embody sustainability, emotional connection, and
the sublime beauty of nature. His creations are not meant to be only clothing but
transformative experiences.
In this space where art, science, and philosophy meet, Nakazato invites us all to imagine a new era of fashion: a future beyond couture
 |
A glimmering, three-dimensional design from the Unkown collection, Autumn-Winter 2016-2017 |
Nakazato’s artistic reach extends to the performing arts. His collaborations include designing costumes for ballet, stage productions, and opera. One of his most anticipated projects was the costume design for Idoménée, that premiered in early 2024, at Le Grand Théâtre de Genève.
Here, Nakazato’s theatrical sensibilities converge with his technical prowess, bringing his signature blend of imagination and precision to a new audience.
Yuima Nakazato represents the future of fashion: where experimentation fuels ingenuity, and where garments are more than wearable clothes but bridges
to deeper human and environmental connections.
As the curtain closes on Beyond Couture, it leaves behind not only a testament to Nakazato’s work but also a challenge to the industry to follow in his pioneering footsteps.
In this space where art, science, and philosophy meet, Nakazato invites us all to imagine a new era of fashion: a future beyond couture.
The Beyond Couture exhibition at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais runs until January 5th 2025. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Tuesdays and major holidays, with tickets priced at €7and €4 for concessions. For more details, visit www.cite-dentelle.fr.
