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| French Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy departed Bottega Veneta and has been appointed to take the helm at Chanel. Cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM |
The announcement that the fashion world has been waiting
for: Matthieu Blazy will succeed Virginie Viard at Chanel.
For the famous Parisian maison, the stakes are high, the French Belgian designer
must reinvent without scaring away longtime clients and prove his ability to
reimagine the Chanel style, as Karl Lagerfeld did in his time. By Delphine
Dion, ESSEC
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Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard, pictured together in 2000, |
FOR MONTHS, the house of Chanel, one of the greatest icons of luxury, has been at a crossroads. When Karl Lagerfeld passed away in 2019, Virginie Viard, his long-time right-hand woman, succeeded him. She announced her departure in June 2024 and this change marks a decisive turning point for Chanel. The expectations for the new creative director are high: Matthieu Blazy will have to be able to open a new chapter in the history of Chanel, by redefining the aesthetics of the house while respecting its heritage.
The challenge is all the more difficult to take up since Karl Lagerfeld led the artistic creation of Chanel for more than three decades. This means that the man known for his ponytail and his sense of formula left his mark, while respecting the aesthetic codes defined by Coco Chanel. He left a deep mark on the history of fashion. His unique vision, his creativity and his personality made the house shine throughout the world. His impact was such that it was difficult to imagine the future of Chanel without Karl Lagerfeld.
Brand Dynasties
To understand all the issues involved in a successful succession to artistic direction, it is important to remember that a fashion house functions like a dynasty. Like a monarchy where successive sovereigns embody power in their own way, artistic directors succeed one another at the head of a fashion brand to embody and reinterpret its heritage. Since the death of Christian Dior in 1957, six artistic directors have succeeded one another at the head of the house, each embodying in their own way make the spirit of the house: Yves Saint-Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
When an artistic director joins a house, he immerses himself in the heritage of the house: the personality and history of the founder, the iconic pieces of the house, the symbols of the brand, the places associated with the brand, etc. He chooses the elements of the heritage that he will highlight and reinterpret in his own way. He can also bring out elements of the heritage that are less well known or more peripheral in order to renew the heritage.
Thus, Karl Lagerfeld structured Chanel's heritage around materials (tweed, gold chain, quilted leather), colors (black and white), symbols (camellia, double C), etc. And, for more than 25 years, he has continued to reinterpret this heritage. He has also enriched this heritage by introducing new codes such as the lion, in homage to Coco Chanel's astrological sign, which has become an icon of the jewellery collection.
Dynastic Transitions
Dynastic transitions are difficult times for brands. The departure of an artistic director can be fatal. Lanvin never recovered from the departure of Alber Elbaz, who was called the darling of fashion at the time. Artistic directors came and went, but none managed to pick up the torch and create the enthusiasm that Alber Elbaz had generated. Similarly, since Alessandro Michele left Gucci, sales have collapsed.
The arrival of a new artistic director can also create a new dynamic within a house by injecting new creativity. This is the case, for example, of Heidi Slimane when he joined Saint Laurent and later Celine. Each time, his work resulted in a new creative breath of fresh air and a significant increase in turnover. Enough to satisfy customers, the specialist press and... shareholders. This means that choosing a successor is a very delicate operation with major strategic issues.
The Danger of Mummification
Some artistic directors remain very close to the brand's heritage. This strategy allows the brand to be rooted in its heritage. Thus, drawing on the house's heritage, Virginie Viard has taken up certain iconic codes from Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, including tweed, two-tone ballerinas, mauves and floral muslins.
However, this strategy can cause a phenomenon of brand mummification: collections end up lacking creativity, becoming similar and tiring the public. This is what we have seen at Chanel in recent years. Virginie Viard's departure marks the end of a cycle and the need to redefine the creative vision of the house.
There is also a risk of remaining too focused on the past and missing out on new market trends. The fashion market has evolved, particularly with the rise of athleisure – i.e. the mix between sportswear and everyday clothing, sustainable fashion, discreet luxury and the arrival of new designers.
The Risk of a Revolt
Other artistic directors tend to distance themselves from the brand's heritage. This can breathe new life into the brand but can also destabilise the dynasty by moving too far away from the house's heritage. There is a risk of rebellion. For example, when arriving at Yves Saint- Laurent, Heidi Slimane renamed the brand, removing the first name "Yves", creating a protest movement among the brand's aficionados on social networks.
He moved away from the brand's heritage to propose a very personal aesthetic that broke with the history of the house. He followed the same strategy at Céline, boosting sales at both houses by creating an aesthetic that was very far removed from the brand's heritage. This could greatly complicate the task for his successor, who will struggle to ensure aesthetic continuity. These successive style breaks can produce confusion in the market and dilute the brand's identity and heritage.
The success of the artistic director also depends on how cultural intermediaries (journalists, influencers and celebrities) judge a new artistic director. To achieve this, the houses seek to have the new appointee approved by cultural intermediaries by celebrating his talent and creativity and by deciphering his creations.
Returning to Chanel, the iconic house was at a crossroads where it had to reinvent itself, while moving forward with great caution. While respect for its heritage and values remains paramount, a bold choice like Matthieu Blazy is necessary for Chanel to maintain its place among the great fashion houses. This turning point, while delicate, represents a unique opportunity for Chanel to write a new chapter in its dynasty, faithful to its past while opening itself to the challenges of the future.
The choice of Matthieu Blazy as the next artistic director is a key moment not only for Chanel, but for the entire fashion industry, which will watch this transition process with particular interest. The fashion world is eagerly awaiting to see how he takes the reins of one of the most prestigious houses and how he will embody the Chanel spirit.