DESIGN and ART MAGAZINE: An Ode to Paris: Stéphane Rolland's Haute Couture Elegy to the City of Light and Shadows

Stephane Rolland's resonant evocation of nocturnal Paris at his latest show in the French capital. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

In the 8th arrondissement of Paris, Stéphane Rolland, presented his haute couture collection for Autumn/Winter 2024 on a long, atmospheric runway at the Art Deco Salle Pleyel concert hall. This season was not so much a display of sartorial ingenuity but rather a love letter to the French Capital, through the lens of post-war photography and poetry, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

Glamourous figures amid the evocation

of Paris' night mist. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

ENAMOURED with the sophistication of post-war Paris, French couturier Stéphane Rolland's latest collection was influenced by the poetic works of Jacques Prévert and the evocative photography of Brassaï.

Rolland envisioned an alluring, black-and-white Paris, shrouded in mist and mystery, exuding a quiet yet potent sensuality: the city of Édith Piaf, Jeanne Moreau and Yves Montand. The sound of footsteps opened the show while resonant riffs of jazz piano and trumpet suggested smoke-filled nightclubs of the 1940s and 50s.

Called Paroles, Rolland's collection is an ode to the literary and photographic greats of the French capital. The aim of the show was to create a narrative that unfolded like a poetic journey through the city’s nocturnal streets, capturing its hidden beauty and intimate moments. Each piece is part of Rolland's story, from a cut-out tuxedo jumpsuit in wool crepe and black satin with a diamond belt to a tailored dress with organza inserts and an onyx-embroidered bodice, all created with the designer's impeccable craftsmanship.

Stéphane Rolland's designs draw on Brassaï's black-and-white imagery and Prévert's lyrical prose. Brassaï was the professional name of Gyula Halász a Hungarian~French photographer who became renowned in France. While Prévert's poems were collected in books including Paroles (Words) published in 1946, where he writes about life in Paris after the Second World War.

From Rolland's early days of sketching as a child to becoming one of the handful of designers who continue to uphold the unique expertise of French haute couture, Rolland’s passion for fashion has always been evident. His fascination with architecture and modern art has shaped his distinctive, sculptural style, which is evident in each collection.

The aim of the show was to create a narrative that unfolds like a poetic journey through the city’s nocturnal streets, capturing hidden beauty and intimate moments.

Coco Rocha wears the spectacular bridal

gown embellished with organza petals.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

The runway at the Salle Pleyel was transformed into a cinematic experience. Models appeared to glide across the stage in monochromatic, dramatic designs amid curls of fog. Rolland’s attention to detail was evident in all of the designs, from dresses adorned with jewels to the use of luxurious fabrics.

This season, Rolland's tailoring was particularly superb with well-cut jackets juxtaposed with more ethereal silhouettes. Each piece was cleverly designed to reveal a glimpse of the waist or the back combined with a deep decolletage.

A standout piece was a long, hooded coat in black velvet and satin with a trapeze skirt in wool crepe embroidered with crystals, sapphires and diamonds. Another was a draped white muslin sweater and a skirt in sequined tweed embroidered with crystal and decorated with ivory feathers.

For the finale, the flamboyant bridal look was worn by Coco Rocha, a commodious gown, festooned with embroidery and white organza petals. A testament to Rolland’s mastery of haute couture, the gown featured a capacious hood paired with a flowing skirt in wool gazar.

Each piece was cleverly designed to reveal a glimpse of the waist, or the back combined with a deep decolletage.

Stephane Rolland takes a bow at the

finale of his engaging Paris show.

Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

The collection also featured an asymmetrical dress in white gazar and black wool crepe worn with diamond brooches, a kimono in organza and satin embroidered with crystal, a jumpsuit in ivory adorned with black cubes, a cut-out tunic dress in black sequins, a jersey sweater dress with feathers and a short white tweed jacket with crystals.

Rolland’s use of contrasting fabrics and textures, such as the combination of black chiffon and white gazar, created looks that were both striking and elegant. A sequined tunic dress with white cubist embroidery and evening pajamas in organza and satin showcased the couturier's innovative approach.

Stéphane Rolland’s celebration of Parisian heritage and artistry through his designs, captured the spirit of the post-war era, yet infused it with contemporary finesse. This collection was visually expressive but also an emotional homage to the city that continues to inspire the designer as it has other artists.

See more highlights of Stéphane Rolland's SS24 Haute Couture show in Paris below