Best of Haute Couture Street Style in Paris

The cynosure of all eyes, the Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta Volkova graphic print 'Naked Dress' in Paris during Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023 Haute Couture. Photograph and cover picture of Chiara Ferragni by Elli Ioannou. 

As the European summer comes to a close, we take a look back at the best of the Paris haute couture street style, even more vibrant after two and half years of the pandemic. Stars were out in force on the streets of the French capital from Rossy de Palma in a striking white pant suit at Schiaparelli to Maluma at Jean Paul Gautier in a brilliant Olivier Rousteing ensemble with an outsize jewelled necklace by Joseph Klibanksy. Photography by Elli Ioannou, Matt Fisher, Jaime McPherson and Frea Norman

Rita Ora in a dazzling bustier

and embellished white jeans 

by Schiaparelli. Photograph:

Elli Ioannou

THE COBBLESTONE AVENUES OF PARIS during fashion week are packed with people at shows making sartorial statements from the stylish to the surreal. Will we be wearing any of these looks this autumn? The combination of luxurious pieces with street-style denim continues the high/low aesthetic that has dominated fashion this season.  

During haute couture week photographers move swiftly and fluidly to capture the best of street style: the dramatic, the chic, the outlandish and the famous. 

Rita Ora was a favourite, photographed with flowing fair tresses, wearing a glittering silver bustier to Schiaparelli, smiling as she walked into the show. 

Donning a Jean Paul Gaultier Naked Dress (see main picture), a tall blonde caught the attention of everyone outside of the show, from bloggers and vloggers to professional photographers. The show-stopping, maxi-length dress, designed by Lotta Volvoka, was inspired by Gaultier's SS96 collection called Cyberbaba. Made in Italy from stretch jersey, it features a nude trompe l'oeil silhouette on the front and back.

Supermodel Coco Rocha was on the street wearing an exquisite Iris van Herpen cream concoction and striking a pose. Haute couture only happens twice a year and only in Paris, first in wintry January and then in the peak summer month of July. Already the fashion merry-go-round of September's ready-to-wear in New York has begun. 

The combination of luxurious pieces with street-style denim continues the high/low aesthetic dominating fashion this season  

Maluma wearing Olivier Rousteing's

ensemble for Jean Paul Gaultier. 

Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Designers are able to express conceptual and imaginative ideas in haute couture that are not possible in the context of pret-a-porter collections. 

Couture brings another level of artistic creativity to the runway and to street style, including guests and the great fashion panoply filling central Paris. 

Although most of the shows during the pandemic were digital, this season the number of physical shows on the official calendar outnumbered them, with journalists and editors from all over the world returning to the French capital. 

Exquisite hand-working is part of the haute couture ethos, and this was evident at Maria Grazia Chiuri's very wearable show at Dior with beautiful embroidery and at Virginie Viard's new collection at Chanel. Balmain artistic director Olivier Rousteing designed an evocative one-off haute collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. The French couturier collaborates with a new designer each season who reimagines the Gaultier aesthetic. 

Colombian singer Maluma wore one of Olivier Rousteing's creations from the new show plus the necklace by Dutch artist Joseph Klibansky. The necklace and the pendant ~ the singer's dog Buda in a spacesuit ~ are made of 18k white gold and set with 15, 000 diamonds. The links combine circles wtih diamond-encrusted bones.

Haute couture brings another level of artistic creativity to the runway and to street style 

Rossy de Palma in a white suit

by Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry.

Photograph; Elli Ioannou

The avant-garde was found at Yuima Nakazato's Blue show, the Japanese designer sending his signature otherworldly designs down a runway made of origami-like rocks representing the planet. 

Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli again rifled through the house's Surrealist archive creating his signature sleek yet subversive designs.

All of the drama and theatricality is certainly not restricted to the catwalk and fashionistas were happy to express themselves in ever more extraordinary ways. 

This summer, it was not unusual to see evening gowns worn during the day with big chunky heels or floating, diaphanous dresses catching the breeze on a hot Paris afternoon, worn with runners. 

The suit was back too, with matching jackets and skirts or trousers as well as the contrasting super casual Nineties aesthetic seen everywhere: voluminous jeans, jackets and tight white t-shirts. ~ Jeanne-Marie Cilento

Scroll down to see Street Style Highlights from Paris Haue Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023

Winnie Harlow attracts a crowd at the Fendi show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Capturing the moment with iPhones raised outside Balenciaga. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023. Photograph; Frea Norman

Wearing a design by Daniel Roseberry, Chiara Ferragni on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022 2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Rina Sawayama with fabulous face decoration at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 

Jamie Xie wearing Daniel Roseberry's extraordinary, gilded accessories. Paris Haute Couture 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Jamie Xie strikes a pose at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

A guest in full Schiaparelli stripes on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Stylish head-to-toe Schiaparelli, including earrings and handbag. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022/2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Dramatic, flowing gown on a guest on the way to Schiaparelli. She is wearing one of Daniel Roseberry's signature necklaces. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Coco Rocha wearing an otherworldly Iris van Herpen concoction outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Matt Fisher

Molly Chiang wearing a long Fendi jacket over a sheer skirt, on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Frea Norman

Molly Chiang's belted jacket in contrasting checks with belted detail. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023.Photogtaph: Frea Norman

Winne Harlow in a bustier with matching belt designed by Kim Jones at Fendi. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jamie McPherson

Brazilian singer Anitta wearing Daniel Roseberry designs outside Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture 2022~ 2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Anna Dello Russo wearing head-to-toe Schiaparelli, including belt, bag and earrings. Paris Haute Couture. Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Miss Fame shimmering in the sunlight at Iris van Herpen. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photographed by Jaime McPherson

Heart Evangelista in a delightful floral ensemble, outside the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Floaty, pleated creation at Iris van Herpen. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 

Feathered caplet and cloche hat designed by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Sabina Jakubowicz wearing a gilded breastplate and cloche hat/face mask designed by Daniel Roseberry   in at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Columbian singer Maluma wearing Olivier Rousteing at his show at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou 

Big glasses and a black and white jacket make a striking combination at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Striking a pose at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Taking it half-way at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Cindy Bruna attends the Jean Paul Gaultier show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Sporty shades and a singlet worn with a black kilt skirt outside Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Wearing Olivier Rousteing's design for Jean Paul Gaultier, a model stands on the balcony to show the waiting crowds below. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Drama and exuberance at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Low rise, voluminous denim with a Nineties style leather cap and black glasses at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph. Elli Ioannou

Western hat, Ray-bans, tropical silk shirt and white jeans with a pink stripe make a colourful statement at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A model appears on the balcony at Jean Paul Gaultier, wearing one of Olivier Rousteing's creations for the new collection. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The stretch Jersey maxi Naked Dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta Volkova captured a lot of attention outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Models wearing creations straight from the runway stand on the balcony at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A striped top and Jacquemus bag worn nonchalantly outside the Gaultier show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Heart Evangelista wearing sheer Fendi top and skirt at artistic director kim Jones' show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Jaime McPherson

Peach silk and transparent slip-ons captured on the way to Fendi. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Graphic black and white with fringes and lace up boots at Iris van Herpen, Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022 2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 

 

The crowds outside Balenciaga for Olivier Rousteing's show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Frea Norman

Law Roach wearing a striking embroidered creation by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

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Iris van Herpen: Mythology and the Metaverse

The Meta Morphism dress with lasercut translucent silk and Mylar leaves, symbolizing the myth of Daphne turning into a laurel tree, a highlight of the AW22-23 show. Main picture and cover by Elli Ioannou for DAM in Paris.

The artistic ingenuity of fashion designer Iris van Herpen has hewn a new path for haute couture. Drawing on dance, choreography, science, architecture, music and new technology, her sublime designs are not only otherworldly but exquisitely crafted. This season she explores the metaverse. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Reporting by Ambrogio de Lauro. Photography by Elli Ioannou

Sparkling crystals hang from the tips

of the silken leaves creating 

a glimmering aura 

IRIS van Herpen's ensorcelling designs are at the vanguard of haute couture, refashioning the future. Her singular vision will be showcased at a major new exhibition, to be held in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, next year. Many of her pieces are already in museum collections. 

The Dutch designer's preternatural creations have been worn by Cate Blanchett and Beyoncé to Björk and Lady Gaga and were highlights at this year's Met Gala in New York. In Paris, van Herpen celebrated 15 years since she first launched her eponymous fashion house in 2007. This season, the designer explores our connection to technology and how it effects our sense of self.

Called Meta Morphism, the Autumn/Winter 2022-23 collection was presented in Paris at the Élysée Montmartre, a famous music venue where David Bowie and Patti Smith have performed. 

Van Herpen examines how we will change and adapt with the rise of the metaverse. Although a futurist, she looked back twelve centuries and drew her inspiration for her latest designs from Ovid's Metamorphoses. Transformation is the overall motif running through the ancient work's myriad myths and history of the world.

The Roman poet wrote the epic Latin narrative poem in the 8^th century and the theme of metamorphosis  ~ van Herpen's starting point ~ is introduced at the beginning: "In nova fert animus mutatas dicere formas/corpora ("I intend to speak of forms changed into new entities").

Iris van Herpen's new major exhibition will be held in Paris at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs 

Casey Curran's sculpture of Daphne

on the runway with Apollo as 

fluttering golden leaves

Van Herpen also based this latest collection's themes on the myths and stories of Narcissus, Arachne and Daphne and Apollo. She collaborated with sculptor Casey Curran to create a dynamic statue of Daphne, that drew all eyes at the heart of the runway at the Élysée Montmartre. 

The sculpture's gilded skeleton sprouts abstract white blooms like living flora, representing the laurel tree. The work floated at the centre of the space like a talisman. The quivering golden leaves above the figure were designed to suggest Apollo's unrequited passion for her.

Walking around this potent artwork, the models teetered on winged, 3D printed heels wearing  sinuously surreal designs made with an entrancing combination of new technology and superlative hand-crafted expertise. 

Many of the lacy, corporeal details are 3D printed and then meticulously hand-sewn together, maintaining the artisan tradition of haute couture yet upending staid preconceptions of form and material. 

Key to van Herpen's work is sustainability which she has made an integral part of the design and production process of her collections. Since she founded her label, she has developed new techniques and experimented with materials not usually associated with couture. 

She wants to not only push the boundaries of what is considered haute couture but leap beyond them. The designer sees haute couture as a laboratory for experimentation, influencing and inspiring ready-to-wear. Every season is an opportunity to express, in material and digital form, new ideas. 

The designer sees haute couture as a fashion laboratory for innovation and experimentation 

The Singularity jumpsuit with

3D printed adornments made

from leftover cocoa bean shells

This season, using 3D printing and working with Dutch designers Eric Klarenbeek and Maartje Dros, Van Herpen  developed the Singularity jumpsuit (see at left). Figure- hugging in rich, warm ochre hues, the design was brought to fruition by using left-over cocoa bean shells.

The raw cocoa beans shells are processed into granules and then mixed with glucose. This stabilized substance is then spun into a filament, forming an organic biopolymer that can be 3D printed, making the production of the material entirely sustainable. 

As a finishing touch, the embellishments are electroplated with copper. The jumpsuit is interwoven with vegetative tendrils that wreath Cindy Bruna's body encased in upcycled organza.

Another innovative material used by Iris van Herpen in this collection is a biodegradable fabric made from a type of banana called Abaca, originating from the Philippines. The fabric is made of 40% raw silk combined with 60% fibre from the banana plant’s stems. 

The Abaca and silk are woven into a shiny material that shimmers with the shine of banana leaves. The designer also worked with Solaris, using recycled Mylar as the base for intricate embroidery and laser cuts. The fine, translucent face jewellery that the models wore for the Paris show was created with artists Staskausas and Lance Victor Moore.

The pellucid fabrics of the collection have a gossamer texture and are in a subtle palette of creams and beiges, giving the models an ethereal, otherworldly grace. Contrasting with these incorporeal figures were those dressed in darker hues of blue and amethyst with a dash of copper and silver to enliven the glistening embellishments.   

The sinuously surreal designs are made with an entrancing combination of new technology and superlative, hand-crafted expertise 

The Omnipresent dress with it's

filmy, spider-web like lace

bounded by laser-cut 

black framework 

The myth of the master weaver Arachne was the inspiration for the delicate laces forming embroidered webs like the Omnipresent dress (at right). The halo-like tendrils around the face were designed to suggest threads that could be woven. The facemask made of fine, lasercut steel forms a frame for the lace. Black lines encase the translucent filmy embroidery like stained glass.

The tragic tale of Narcissus, who falls in love with his own reflection, was the impetus that spurred the designer to create luminous surfaces that were layered and reflective. The Narcissus coat (see below) worn by Winnie Harlow is also embroidered with faces that seem to move and then disappear. 

The myth of Daphne and Apollo engendered the design of the finale look with Daphne's metamorphosis into a laurel tree. Van Herpen interprets the story as a metaphor for our immersion in virtual worlds where we merge with the metaverse. 

She asks questions about what this could look like: "How do we envisage our digital counterparts? Who do we dream of becoming in these digital realms?" Well the designer has given us the answer, with this collection, to the most important question: "What will we wear?"  

Scroll down to see highlights from the AW22 Haute Couture Collection in Paris