Paris Fashion Week: Bamboo, Balance and Beauty Define Issey Miyake's Vision of Modern Menswear

Issey Miyake presented an elegant and poetic SS27 collection in Paris for their label IM Men. Photograph (above) and cover picture by Jay Zoo for DAM.

Fashion designers often look to nature for inspiration, but few interpret it with the innovation and precision of Issey Miyake's IM Men Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Created by Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi and shown at Paris Fashion Week, the Japanese label transformed the quiet poetry of bamboo into an elegant exploration of craftsmanship, movement and textile experimentation, delivering one of the season’s most thoughtful and technically accomplished collections. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Jay Zoo

The atmospheric, pale tones of the Paris runway

was contrasted with tall, black bamboo poles.

INSIDE the serene white space at Césure, the former university campus on Paris's Left Bank, Issey Miyake unveiled In Praise of Bamboo Shadows, a collection that transformed one of nature's most familiar forms into a sophisticated study of construction and material invention.

"The collection explores the perceptive intensity and sensorial flux evoked by the delicate presence of bamboo shadows, expressing them through clothing," the designers Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi explained. That deceptively simple statement became the intellectual foundation for one of the week's most considered collections, where craftsmanship and experimentation unfolded with remarkable clarity.

Before the first look appeared, the audience was immersed in an abstract landscape of ethereal white with black bamboo and translucent screens. Shadowy figures drifted behind the semi-transparent installation, their outlines slowly sharpening as they stepped forward. The staging immediately established the collection's central dialogue between concealment and revelation, a recurring theme that continued throughout the show.

"The collection explores the perceptive intensity and sensorial flux evoked by the delicate presence of bamboo shadows, expressing them through clothing"

Bamboo shadows, a range inspired by 

East Asian ink paintings and intricate,

paper stencils used in katazome dyeing. 

Drawing inspiration from bamboo imagery found in East Asian ink paintings and the intricate paper stencils used in traditional katazome textile dyeing, the designers resisted the temptation to create literal interpretations. Instead, they distilled centuries of artistic tradition into garments that felt unmistakably contemporary.

The opening sequence introduced immaculate tailoring in black and white, where finely printed bamboo shadows drifted across sharply cut coats and relaxed suits. Produced using the Japanese ironaki dyeing technique on bamboo fibre blended with organic cotton, the prints possessed an extraordinary softness that blurred the boundary between textile and artwork.

As the collection evolved, silhouette became increasingly expressive. Oversized outerwear enveloped the body with effortless ease, while generous dolman sleeves and sculptural collars created garments that floated rather than imposed themselves. One particularly memorable series referenced the layered ceremonial robes associated with Princess Kaguya from The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter, translating historical dress into striking contemporary volumes without resorting to costume.

Lightweight denim carried subtle hand-finished bleaching that recreated the tonal gradients of bamboo depicted in ink landscapes

Denim in tonal gradients was created in a 

lightweight version with subtle bleaching. 

Textile development has always been fundamental to the Miyake philosophy, and here it remained the collection's greatest strength.

Lightweight denim carried subtle hand-finished bleaching that recreated the tonal gradients of bamboo depicted in ink landscapes, while jacquard fabrics reproduced the woven geometry of traditional bamboo basketry with astonishing three-dimensional precision. Blousons engineered from single rectangular pattern pieces revealed the studio's continuing fascination with reducing construction to its purest form.

Pleating, an enduring signature within the Miyake canon, was approached with fresh purpose. Instead of functioning merely as decoration, rhythmic hand-worked folds echoed the segmented structure of bamboo stems, giving garments an architectural rhythm that constantly shifted as the wearer moved. The result was clothing that appeared simultaneously sculptural and remarkably weightless.

Carefully removed pocket structures exposed underlying layers, allowing absence itself to become an active design element

Cut-outs were a feature, making

negative space part of the design. 

Perhaps the collection's most intellectually engaging proposition emerged through garments exploring negative space.

Carefully removed pocket structures exposed underlying layers, allowing absence itself to become an active design element. It was an elegant reminder that innovation often comes through restraint rather than addition.

Accessories extended the narrative with equal intelligence. Soft leather bags borrowed their form from chimaki, the traditional bamboo leaf-wrapped delicacy, while woven hats and sculptural headpieces subtly reinforced the show's botanical inspiration. Completing the looks was the latest evolution of Issey Miyake footwear, developed alongside ASICS, where the shoe's technical framework disappeared beneath a seamless textile skin, elegantly dissolving the distinction between sportswear and design object.

 Every colour felt connected to the changing light within a bamboo grove rather than the dictates of seasonal fashion.

The black and white part of the collection,

was enlivened with deep blues and pinks.

The restrained monochrome palette gradually gave way to earthy browns, sage greens, vivid royal blue and flashes of vibrant pink, introducing moments of optimism without disturbing the collection's meditative rhythm. Every colour felt connected to the changing light within a bamboo grove rather than the dictates of seasonal fashion.

While many collections this season have relied on spectacle to generate conversation, IM Men demonstrated that genuine innovation speaks with  greater authority. In Praise of Bamboo Shadows was not simply another exercise in technical excellence from the Miyake Design Studio. It was a reminder that fashion's future may lie not in making more noise, but in looking more closely, finding subtle possibilities in nature, tradition and the quiet precision of exceptional design.

See more highlights from the Issey Miyake IM Men Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris

Paris Fashion Week: Maison Kitsuné’s Urban Glide Finds Its Current Between Climate and Culture

On a hot summer Paris afternoon in the lovely gardens of the Hôtel de Rohan, Maison Kitsune's presented the new SS27 collection. Photograph by Jay Zoo for DAM

Maison Kitsuné has long occupied a distinctive space between Parisian and Japanese aesthetics. The Spring/Summer 2027 collection by Abigail Smiley-Smith focused the house's contemporary identity through a collection that fused technical innovation, relaxed sophistication and multidisciplinary creativity, reflecting the changing demands of both fashion and modern urban life. Story by Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Feature photographs by Jay Zoo 

One of the sculptures by Japanese artist

En Iwamura were part of the show. 

Photograph: Jay Zoo

WHEN Maison Kitsuné presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in the gardens of Paris’s Hôtel de Rohan, it signalled a confident continuation of the house’s evolving identity under Creative Director Abigail Smiley-Smith's third season. 

The brand’s Paris-to-Tokyo dialogue remained central, but was reframed this season through a sharper focus on adaptation, climate responsiveness and the realities of contemporary urban living.

Titled Urban Glide, the collection explored how clothing can respond to increasingly demanding summer environments, where heat, density and constant movement require a new balance between performance and ease. Smiley-Smith approached this through a refined wardrobe language grounded in utility, lightness and fluidity, positioning function not as opposition to elegance, but as its extension.

 “With Urban Glide, I wanted to explore how clothing can create a sense of protection and freedom at the same time," explained the designer. "The collection reflects the ways we adapt to our surroundings, whether navigating the intensity of the city or seeking moments of escape. It's about creating garments that move with the wearer and respond to the environment around them.”

With monumental sculptures and a live choral reinterpretation of electronic music, the collection expanded to a broader cultural experience

Relaxed silhouettes and breathable fabrics, 

keys to the collection's ethos of adaptability.

Photograph: Jay Zoo 

This idea of duality, protection and freedom, ran throughout the collection, expressed through relaxed silhouettes, breathable technical fabrics and a focus on movement. Garments were constructed to suggest shelter without weight, favouring ventilation, volume and adaptability over rigidity. 

The result was a collection designed to operate across shifting contexts, from dense urban streets to more open, coastal environments.

Material references to heat-adaptive construction and lightweight protective clothing informed the technical direction, while ideas of layering and spatial intervention subtly shaped the overall silhouette language. Rather than emphasising overt performance detailing, the collection integrated function into its structure, allowing innovation to sit quietly within refined tailoring.

Visual cues moved between marine blues, sun-faded neutrals and softened greys, evoking the effects of light, heat and reflection across surfaces. Rather than literal maritime references, the collection suggested water through texture, finish and movement, creating a sense of constant transition.

"The collection reflects the ways we adapt to our surroundings, whether navigating the intensity of the city or seeking moments of escape" 

Layering in clever ways and subtle tonalities

added to the sense of comfortable elegance.

Photograph: Jay Zoo

Collaboration remained a key element of the season, particularly through the involvement of Japanese artist En Iwamura, who reinterpreted the house’s fox motif into sculptural and visual forms.

“Receiving this invitation was both exciting and deeply intriguing," the aritist said. "In my studio practice, I primarily work with clay, moving fluidly between sculpture and two-dimensional works such as drawings in search of new creative possibilities. In that sense, collaborating with fashion in this way was a fresh and unexpected challenge”

Further collaborations with Snow Peak, ATP Atelier and Lono extended the collection’s dialogue between utility, and lifestyle, reinforcing Maison Kitsuné’s ongoing interest in the intersection of urban life and nature.

In the gardens of the Hôtel de Rohan, the presentation unfolded as an immersive environment, where monumental sculptural interventions and a live choral reinterpretation of electronic music expanded the collection into a broader cultural experience. The result was a show that positioned fashion not as static display, but as a lived, multisensory landscape.

With Urban Glide, Smiley-Smith continues to refine Maison Kitsuné’s contemporary vocabulary, one that designs for creating adaptability and responsiveness to our environment.

See the full Maison Kitsune Paris Spring/Summer 2027 Collection