DESIGN and ART MAGAZINE

Monday, 20 January 2025

Milan Fashion Week Autumn 2025: Canali’s Soigné New Collection and Homage to Brianza Craftsmanship

The new collection by luxury menswear label Canali in Milan, Italy. Photograph (above) by Anna Nguyen. Cover picture by Jay Zoo

Canali's Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection launched at Milan Fashion Week, highlights the cultural and artisanal richness of the northern Italian region of Brianza, at the foot of the Alps, between Milan and Lake Como. Well known for its furniture production, the region inspired the presentation which was not just a showcase of fine tailoring but also a thoughtful exploration of how fashion and design intersect in a shared tradition of craftsmanship, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

American actor Ed Westwick attended

the Canali presentation in Milan.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

HELD IN an immersive setting that resembled a luxurious lounge, Canali's new presentation invited the audience into an environment where high-quality materials and refined design met the comfort of home. Even Gossip Girl's suave Ed Westwick came to enjoy the show and experience the Italian savoir faire.

The display, set up like a sophisticated residence, included armchairs designed by renowned Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen for Molteni. These armchairs, upholstered in Canali fabrics from the latest collection, were a striking representation of the intersection of the brand's fashion sensibilities and the furniture-making expertise found in the local area. The incorporation of these furniture pieces served as a subtle nod to the craftsmanship of Brianza.

According to Stefano Canali, the president and CEO, this collection encapsulated the essence of the brand, including its history, high-quality fabrics and seasonal patterns. At the heart of it was the fusion of local design elements and high-end tailoring. Even the patterns found on the floor of the display, alongside the textures from the furniture pieces, were reflected in the garments.

Canali's new presentation invited the audience into an environment where high-quality materials and refined design met the comfort of home

The design of the presentation as a luxurious

living room with chairs by Vincent Van Duysen

worked with the collection's design concept.

Photograph: Jay Zoo

The loose, belted coats, deconstructed suits, and fluid trenches had an undeniable loungewear-inspired feel, while still maintaining a polished appearance.

These pieces were designed with a sense of relaxation in mind, making them suitable for both formal settings and more casual outings. Key design elements, like Donegal textures and diamond patterns, were prominently featured throughout the collection.

These references were not only visible in the designs but also in the accompanying furniture and accessories. The soft and cocooning shapes of the pieces, paired with the use of materials such as alpaca, cashmere and Nappa leather, ensured that the collection struck a balance between luxurious comfort and sophistication. This focus on high quality materials is part of the company’s legacy, which spans more than 90 years, beginning with its founding in Triuggio in the 1930s. Since then, Canali has built a reputation for fine tailoring, using both traditional and cutting-edge techniques.

The soft and cocooning shapes, paired with alpaca, cashmere and Nappa leather, ensured a balance between comfort and sophistication

Fluid and beautifully cut trenches and long coats

gave the collection a relaxed yet sophisticated look.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Another aspect of this season's presentation was the sense of continuity between the garments and the environment in which they were showcased. The models in the setting, exuded a certain stylish relaxation and which suited the soigné surroundings. The underlying themes of craftsmanship and the local region are evident not only in the clothing but also in Canali’s broader business philosophy.

In addition to the collection itself, Canali’s presentation was a reminder of how the brand has weathered changes in the international fashion landscape. From its beginnings as a small tailoring workshop in 1934 to its current status as a global luxury menswear brand, Canali has always managed to retain its Italian ethos. By continuing to pay homage to the craft of the Brianza region while integrating new design elements, Canali has successfully created a collection that resonates with both longstanding clients and new audiences.

Scroll down to see more highlights from the Canali Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection in Milan

Milan Fashion Week. Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Canali: Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026, Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week. Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026; Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali, Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Canali. Photograph: Jay Zoo

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Saturday, 18 January 2025

Milan Fashion Week: Fluid Forms and Fine Fabrics ~ Altea Debuts Womenswear Alongside Menswear

Italian label Altea debuted a womenswear collection at Milan Fashion Week. Photograph: Anna Nguyen. Cover picture by Jay Zoo

Among this season’s highlights at Milan Fashion Week was Altea, the storied Italian fashion house, whose latest collection redefines contemporary luxury with a new foray into womenswear. This milestone marks the Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection as an important moment for the label, blending signature Italian sophistication with an aesthetic that celebrates nature and craftsmanship. Story by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

Fine silks and cashmere are signatures of Altea.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

THE NEW ALTEA collection represents a significant expansion, introducing a womenswear line that reflects the brand’s sophistication while exploring new dimensions of design.

Drawing inspiration from the beauty of nature, the collection offers a palette reminiscent of a forest at dusk. Warm mustard, rust, and deep greens merge harmoniously with mineral tones and understated neutrals, creating a narrative as serene as it is striking.

Silhouettes have fluid forms with layered textures evoking both modernity and comfort. Knitwear emerges as the collection’s centerpiece, embodying the brand’s reputation for impeccable craftsmanship. From heavy cashmere shawl collar cardigans to lightweight Merino crewnecks, these pieces redefine the possibilities of knitwear as a versatile and stylish wardrobe staple.

At the heart of Altea’s new collection lies a philosophy of mindful modernity, a concept that emphasizes thoughtful design and environmental responsibility. Each garment reflects a balance between grace and utility, allowing wearers to move from day to evening. Outerwear pieces, including reimagined classics and statement coats, highlight the brand’s focus on longevity. Meanwhile, shirts and tailored items push the boundaries of everyday formality with innovative cuts and luxurious fabrics.

At the heart of Altea’s new collection lies a philosophy of mindful modernity, a concept that emphasizes thoughtful design and environmental responsibility

Voluminous, textural knitwear adds a luxurious

feeling to the new womenswear collection.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Altea’s commitment to sustainability is evident throughout the collection. The brand sources yarns from suppliers known for ethical practices, including Cariaggi for cashmere and Tintoria di Pollone for linen blends.

The use of biodegradable materials and an emphasis on local production further reduce the environmental impact, evincing Altea’s commitment to sustainable fashion.

Founded in 1892, Altea has long demonstrated Italy’s mastery of fine textile production. From its roots in men’s accessories, the brand has evolved into a label celebrated for its vibrant design. Altea has always utilized Italian artisanship, partnering with specialist suppliers in regions like Umbria and Marche, the heartlands of knitwear expertise.

Central to Altea’s ethos is a meticulous approach to material selection. The brand sources natural fibres such as cashmere, alpaca, silk, and Egyptian cotton, each chosen for its superior qualities and sustainability. By working with ethically certified mills, the label ensures that its creations align with today's environmental standards.

The label utilizes Italian artisanship, partnering with specialist suppliers in regions like Umbria and Marche, the heartlands of knitwear expertise

Established in 1892, Altea has a long history

of working with Italian artisans.

Photograph: Anna Nguyen

The Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection demonstrates the transformative power of beautiful materials. Cashmere, sourced from the undercoat of Himalayan goats, lends a velvety softness and natural thermoregulating properties to Altea’s knitwear.

This luxurious fibre is elevated further through blends with silk, creating garments that are as lightweight as they are indulgent.

Linen and alpaca are also favoured materials of the label. Linen's breathability and texture make it an ideal choice for layering, while alpaca’s hypoallergenic properties and durability provide warmth. Blended yarns, such as wool and cashmere combinations, showcase the brand’s ability to harness the best qualities of each material, delivering garments that are functional and refined.

As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental impact, Altea aims to be a responsible manufacturer. The brand’s localized production network in Italy minimizes carbon emissions, while partnerships with mills like Filmar and Zegna Baruffa emphasize traceability and ethical practices.

A holistic approach reflects a respect for the natural world and a vision for a more sustainable future in fashion.

The presentation in Milan was an atmospheric event

that was a rich backdrop for the new collection

Photograph: Jay Zoo

By choosing biodegradable fibres and avoiding harmful chemicals, Altea creates clothing that is both kind to the planet as well as being luxurious.

Beyond the sustainability of materials, the label fosters long-term relationships with its suppliers, so there is consistency across collections. This holistic approach reflects a respect for the natural world and a vision for a more sustainable future in fashion.

This seasons' debut of Altea’s womenswear collection signals a new direction for the brand, one that is grounded in its rich heritage. By blending the artistry of Italian craftsmanship with a forward-thinking ethos, Altea continues to redefine contemporary luxury. As Milan Fashion Week celebrates the best of global fashion, Altea still signifies Italian finesse.

Scroll down to see highlights from the Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Menswear & Womenswear collection