Friday, 17 January 2025

Milan Fashion Week Menswear Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Best of Streetstyle by Jay Zoo and Anna Nguyen













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Milan Fashion Week: Pietro De Nardi’s Seventies Serenade ~ A New Era for 1989 Studio

In Milan, the 1989 Studio collection was presented in an abstract space with a dash of Seventies style. Photograph: Jay Zoo. Cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn
Against a striking red backdrop adorned with a stylized rotary telephone and a transistor radio, 1989 Studio unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2025-26 presentation at Milan Fashion Week. It signaled a new direction under the creative leadership of Pietro De Nardi, marking a significant departure from the labels’s roots. The phone served as an invitation to dial into the era that inspired the collection: the eclectic and energetic 1970s. Story by Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

A stylized phone represents
dialing into another era,
with voluminous jackets
and jeans. Photo: Jay Zoo

THE NEW COLLECTION by 1989 Studio builds on the brand’s established streetwear reputation while moving toward a modern, vintage glamour. Founded in Los Angeles in 2021 by Chaz A. Jordan, the label was acquired by the Italian retail group Folli Follie. 

After the exit of the American, Pietro De Nardi was appointed as creative director in May 2024. The Italian designer's extensive career includes roles with luxury fashion houses such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton and Max Mara and reflects the group’s intention to evolve the label beyond its streetwear origins. 

De Nardi's new collection draws from the Seventies, a decade of bold self-expression and vibrant counter culture. 
He captures the period with tailored double-breasted suits featuring flared trousers and elongated jackets that evoke disco nights and cinematic style. Overcoats crafted in bouclé and wool offer sophistication, while velvet varsity jackets with embroidered details bring a touch of youthful nostalgia. 
 
Designs include oversized silhouettes and sleek proportions tailored to the individual rather than adhering to a one-size-fits-all unisex aesthetic. A standout aspect of the collection is the innovative reimagining of workwear and sportswear. Overalls crafted from canvas blend utility with style, while suede zip-up jackets featuring cashmere-blend teddy linings offer a luxurious twist on hoodies. 

Tracksuits inspired by the wardrobe of legendary boxer Cassius Clay stand alongside chenille polo shirts inspired by cinema icons, creating a dialogue between athleticism and elegance. Denim plays a central role, with wide-leg styles featuring distressed finishes or patchwork details that pay homage to music legends of the past. 

Pietro De Nardi's debut collection draws from the Seventies, a decade of bold self-expression and vibrant counterculture 

A varsity look with a cap and t-shirt
and a well-cut jacket. Photo: Jay Zoo
Knitwear, borrowing from sweatshirt designs, includes jogging suits rendered in wool and cotton blends, embodying comfort and craftsmanship. The collection’s use of materials, from textured leathers to technical nylons and velvets, demonstrates a commitment to quality and a fresh perspective on classic textiles. 

The palette reflects the warmth and vibrancy of the 1970s. Shades like burgundy, sage green, caramel, and chocolate brown are complemented by dashes of soft pink, electric blue, and fiery red. These hues enhance the nostalgic feel of the collection but with a contemporary edge. 

Accessories complete the look, bridging the past and present with thoughtful details. From leather caps featuring vintage graphics to knee pads reminiscent of rock icons’ stage performances, the accessories add personality and a sense of play. Ankle boots and loafers crafted in corduroy-inspired suede or tweed finish the ensembles with a touch of elegance. 

This collection not only marks the arrival of Pietro De Nardi as creative director but also represents a broader evolution for 1989 Studio. Under its American founder, the brand carved out a niche in the world of high-end streetwear. With the Italian designer at the helm, the focus has shifted toward a more nuanced approach that embraces Italian heritage, a vintage ethos along with a splash of contemporary cool. 

Scroll down to see more highlights from 1989 Studio presentation at Milan Fashion Week 
Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autum/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26. 1989 Studio. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Milan Fashion Wek Autumn/Winter 2025-26: 1989 Studio. Photograph: Anna Nguyen



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Thursday, 16 January 2025

Florence’s Fashion Fiesta: Pitti Uomo Menswear Autumn 2025 Streetstyle by Andrea Heinsohn

Striking a pose in a three-piece suit in Florence, Italy at the opening of Pitti Uomo. edition 107. Photograph and cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn


The cobblestone streets of Florence transform into a kaleidoscope of sartorial splendor as Pitti Uomo opens its doors for the Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 season. This iconic event, showcasing luxury and artisanal menswear, has become a cultural phenomenon where fashion doesn’t just reside within exhibition halls but spills onto the city’s historic piazzas, cafés, and alleyways. Story by Antonio Visconti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn

Bold and colourful suiting
is a staple of Pitti Uomo 
"peacocks' in Florence
PITTI UOMO, much like Florence itself, is a meeting point of heritage and innovation, and this year’s streetstyle set the tone for what is shaping up to be a dynamic season in menswear. No event embodies the Italian art of effortless elegance quite like this tradeshow with 790 different designers and brands on display at the Fortezza da Basso. 

Outside, the streetstyle stars, often referred to as Pitti peacocks, make bold and charismatic statements with their attire. Editors, stylists, influencers, and celebrities all converge in Florence, each showcasing a personal interpretation of the season’s trends, often infused with meticulous Italian tailoring.

Think impeccably tailored double-breasted blazers paired with relaxed wool trousers or sharply cut houndstooth coats offset by chunky sneakers. Some embraced the resurgence of vintage aesthetics, sporting wide-legged trousers, velvet blazers, and bold geometric prints reminiscent of the 1970s. 

Others leaned into minimalism, creating a visual contrast with muted tones of taupe, camel, and charcoal gray juxtaposed with clean silhouettes.

Pitti Uomo men understand the transformative power of accessories, and this season, they didn’t disappoint. Wide-brimmed fedoras, intricately patterned silk scarves, and bold statement sunglasses were seen adorning many outfits, adding layers of personality to already polished looks. Footwear also took centre stage, with an array of options ranging from classic brogues and loafers to modern Chelsea boots and avant-garde sneakers.

Leather designs, another hallmark of Italian craftsmanship, were on full display. Many carried structured handbags or oversized tote bags, signaling a shift toward practical yet stylish daily essentials. The prominence of jewellery ~ chunky rings, layered chains, and vintage watches ~ underscored the growing importance of accessories in elevating a man’s wardrobe.

Outside, the streetstyle stars, often referred to as Pitti peacocks, make bold and charismatic statements with their sartorial savoir faire

Beautifully tailored, sleek, wool
overcoats were highlights at 
Pitti Uomo during wintry days

Florence’s chilly January air provided the perfect backdrop for displayin this season’s outerwear trends. Long wool overcoats in bold plaids, herringbone patterns, and textured fabrics dominated the scene, demonstrating how tailoring remains at the heart of menswear.

Quilted jackets and puffer coats added a more casual flair, particularly in striking colors like deep burgundy, olive green, and even metallic finishes. Capes and ponchos ~ an unexpected but welcome addition~ offered a dramatic silhouette, blending functionality with a sense of theatricality. These pieces weren’t just outerwear; they were statements, capturing the imagination of onlookers and streetstyle photographers alike.

While Pitti Uomo is rooted in tradition, it has also become a space where self-expression reigns supreme. Attendees often blend the old with the new, combining classic tailoring with streetwear influences or experimenting with gender-fluid silhouettes. Oversized blazers were paired with cropped trousers, while knitwear in unconventional patterns added a touch of whimsy to more formal ensembles.

Notably, this year saw a celebration of texture: plush velvets, smooth silks, and chunky knits were layered with precision, creating outfits that were as tactile as they were visually striking. This interplay of materials, colors, and proportions underscored a key takeaway from Pitti Uomo: menswear is becoming increasingly diverse, experimental, and boundary-pushing.

The trends showcased here often serve as a bellwether for global menswear, trickling down from luxury brands to high-street retailers 

The crowds gathered at the 
Fortezza da Basso to see
the designers on show 
Pitti Uomo’s influence extends far beyond the medieval streets of Florence. The trends showcased here often serve as a bellwether for global menswear, trickling down from luxury brands to high-street retailers. This season, the emphasis on individuality, craftsmanship, and the merging of traditional and contemporary aesthetics suggests a continued shift towards personal style over prescriptive fashion rules.

Celebrities and influencers play a significant role in amplifying the event’s reach. Their curated looks, captured by street-style photographers, quickly find their way to social media, sparking conversations and inspiring audiences worldwide. Whether it was a subtle nod to sustainability through vintage pieces or bold experimentation with avant-garde designs, their outfits underscored how Pitti Uomo continues to be a melting pot of creativity.

With this new 107 edition of Pitti Uomo, one thing is clear: Florence remains at the heart of the menswear conversation. The Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 season has set a high standard, showcasing a harmonious blend of tradition, innovation, and personal expression. 

From the grandeur of the city’s historic architecture to the dynamic street style that fills its squares, Pitti Uomo encapsulates the spirit of modern menswear. It’s more than a trade show; it’s a cultural moment, a celebration of artistry, and a testament to the enduring appeal of fashion as a means of storytelling. The Pitti Uomo peacocks may return to their roosts, but their sartorial influence will linger, shaping trends and inspiring wardrobes for seasons to come.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Pitti Uomo number 107 Autumn/Winter 2025-2026




















































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