Monday, 10 June 2024

The Best Highlights of Streetstyle at Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2024

Striking a pose for the streetstyle photographers at Schiaparelli in Paris.Photograph by Andrea Heinsohn. Cover picture of American actor Bella Thorne by Elli Ioannou for DAM 

We look back at more highlights of streetstyle captured by the DAM team at Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2024. During those winter days, the fashion drama was not just confined to the storied salons and grand venues where design houses such as Schiaparelli, Chanel, Dior, and more recent couturiers like Rahl Mishra, unveiled their latest collections. 

Outside, the streets of Paris were transformed into an impromptu runway, where fashion enthusiasts and celebrities showcased their personal style, creating a spectacle that rivaled the catwalks inside. Guests included Zendaya, Da'Vine Joy Randolph, Jennifer Lopez and Bella Thorne. Even Valentina Ferragni, the younger sister of Chiara was present in the French Capital, despite her elder sibling being embroiled in a maelstrom of controversy in Italy. Photographs by Elli Ioannou and Andrea Heinsohn

Scroll down to see more highlights from the Streetstyle at Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 
 Bella Thorne holds her swashbuckling hat outside the Schiaparelli couture show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024.Photograph: EllI Ioannou


Zendaya wearing a custom Schiaparelli gown designed by Daniel Roseberry at the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: EllI Ioannou

Jennifer Lopez is mobbed by crowds as she attends the Schiaparelli show wearing a petal encrusted look in all white with Daniel Roseberry's Surrealist glasses. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph; Elli Ioannou


Schiaparelli from head-to-toe outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Like a brilliant bird of paradise, wearing Rahul Mishra outside the show in the 9th arrondissment. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

American actor Hunter Schafer is photographed before she attends the Schiaparelli show. aris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

The scrum of photographers jostle for a good spot to capture the arriving guests at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn  




Natalia Vodianova in a cream ensemble and accessories by Schiaparelli before the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Black, white, silver and gold at Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 




Antoine Arnault and Natalia Vodianova on the way to the Dior show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Arrivals for the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Barely wearing Schiaparelli at the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Zendaya arriving at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Cheeky! At the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Valentina Ferragni in cream Schiaparelli including jewellery and handbag. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Photographers gather to shoot the most eye-catching arrivals at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Mid-century chic at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A splash of tomato red Schiaparelli suiting amid a sea of black and white. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Chains, skirts, trousers, jacket, colourful clutch, ready for Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou



Caroline Daur in Schiaparelli before the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou




A burgundy overcoat brightens all black photography pack at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Quirky, individual style strikes an appealing note amid some of the overstyled 'slebs. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou 

In the streets of the 9th arrondissment before the Rahul Mishra show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 


A panoply of Chanel pieces outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Leonie Hanne on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 


Bare legs in a Paris winter? Marianne ? in the street outside the Rahul Mishra show wearing the Indian designer's sequined creation. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Stylish in Daniel Roseberry's creations for Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou



Scintillating red drapery and gold accoutrements at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Another freezing summer dress in the midst of a Paris winter. At the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Jordan Roth with his signature exuberant style at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Looking warm and cosy before the Rahul Mishra show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Susie Lau aka Susie Bubble at Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A dramatic reveal at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

A young adopter of Chanel outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Comfort and style at Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 


Chanel devotees outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Sleek streetstyle on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Carla Bruni arrives at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 
A cute Chanel clutch stands out against at vibrant tweed. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A statement coat on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Black velvet and ready for a streetstyle close up at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Anna Dello Russo on the way in the rain to Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

A flash of Elsa Schiaparelli's shocking pink at Daniel Roseberry's show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Looks like summer but it's a winter's day before the Rahul Mishra show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Chanel by name and Chanel by nature, outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Parisian rain at Chanel, Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

A trend that always look like a key piece of clothing is missing. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Black and white is the directional look this season. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn 

Sabrina Dhowre Elba at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Chanel flair outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

A peaked cap, short jacket and jeans at Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Elli at work at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Engulfed by Schiaparelli black with the gilded measuring tape edge. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Guests outside the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Before the Chanel show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Freezing winters day but summer dress at Dior, Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Dashes of blue captured in the street on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Houndstooth elegance at Dior. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

A tan and bare shoulders with a corseted creation at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The intricate beadwork, a signature of Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Hunter Schafer also braves the cold in a strapless Schiaparelli velvet dress. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Marianne Fonseca in a sculptural, ruffled confection by Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Iridescent Chanel before the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Chic black cape outside the Rahul Mishra show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Fluid simplicity on the way to Dior. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Sequined, silver tiger outside Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

On the steps of Schiaparelli in a full Daniel Roseberry look. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Voluminous red coat looks dramatic on the way to Dior. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Mixed, subtle patterns in shades of charcoal at Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

All black never looked so good, seen at Dior. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Velvet coat and long boots going to Dior. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Dior details, lace tights and tulle. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn




On the steps of Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Gold embroidered ensemble and Chupa Chup at Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Black transparency and boots.Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Bare shoulders and a faux fur hat outside Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Blue velvet and gold shoes at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Anna Dello Russo in a Daniel Roseberry long coat at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Da'Vine Joy Randolph arrives at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Hand-embroidered ensemble by Rahul Mishra. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Simple and stylish at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

The Surrealist face that relaucnhed Schiaparelli, on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn













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Friday, 7 June 2024

Laura Jones Wins the 2024 Archibald Prize with a Portrait of Tim Winton, Part of a Grand Artistic Tradition

Winner Archibald Prize 2024, Laura Jones, Tim Winton, oil on linen, 198 x 152.5 cm. © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter

By Joanna Mendelssohn, The University of Melbourne

In awarding this year’s Archibald Prize to Laura Jones’ portrait of the writer Tim Winton, the Trustees of the Art Gallery of New South Wales are doing what they do best: catapulting a relatively unknown artist to instant fame and possible fortune.

Her portrait of Winton is a study of a man in emotional pain, as he contemplates the possible futures of the world around him.

One of the great disadvantages of being a writer or an artist is that they can see what politicians do not: the long-term consequences of abusing the environment. Both Winton the subject and Jones the artist see our planet is on a path to environmental doom.

Jones met Winton when she was undertaking a residency to study the bleaching of the Great Barrier Reef, so it is appropriate the tones she has chosen as the background to his portrait are dull and muted like a degraded world.

Most of the painting is thinly painted with the exception of his face. This gives the portrait an extra impact.

Although Laura Jones has been a finalist in four previous Archibald Prize exhibitions and has exhibited widely, her profile indicates the only significant collection to hold her work is Artbank, the collection of the Australian government.

That is all about to change.

Winner Archibald Prize 2024, Laura Jones with her winning work Tim Winton, oil on linen, 198 x 152.5 cm. © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Diana Panuccio

In what may be a coincidence, another exhibition on the same floor is a solo exhibition by a previous Archibald winner, Wendy Sharpe, whose painterly approach is similar to Jones.

Sharpe’s work not only relates to Jones’ painting in style, but also the circumstance of her winning the prize. In 1996, Sharpe was a relatively unknown artist when she too was awarded the Archibald Prize. The prize was the trigger for a career that has included a stint of being a Gallery Trustee.

The Archibald really does sprinkle fairy dust.

Djakaŋu Yunupiŋu wins the Wynne Prize

When the board president of the trustees, David Gonski, announced the Wynne Prize he took great joy in noting this year the majority of the entrants selected for hanging were Aboriginal artists.

Awarded to “the best landscape painting of Australian scenery in oils or watercolours or for the best example of figure sculpture by Australian artists”, this oldest of all Australian art prizes has come a long way from when it was dominated by paintings of gum trees in pastoral landscapes.

Djakaŋu Yunupiŋu’s painting, Nyalala gurmilili, is a celebration of sunrise in Miḏawarr (the harvest season following the wet) when sudden showers surprise during the day.

A black and white bark painting.
Winner Wynne Prize 2024, Djakaŋu Yunupiŋu, Nyalala gurmilili, natural pigments on bark, 263 x 154 cm. © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter

It is probably the largest bark painting to be exhibited in the gallery, a glorious undulating pattern of rhythms and shapes.

There is a special significance in this artist being awarded the prize for this work at this gallery.

Many years ago her father, Muŋgurrawuy Yunupiŋu, was one of a group of Yolngu elders who sat with the gallery’s assistant director, Tony Tuckson, and showed him the connection between painting and lore. Muŋgurrawuy Yunupiŋu’s bark paintings are among the treasures of the Art Gallery of NSW’s collection.

Naomi Kantjuriny wins the Sulman Prize

Unlike the Archibald and Wynne Prizes, which are judged by the trustees, the Sulman Prize for best subject painting, genre painting or mural project has a single judge, usually an artist.

This means every year the exhibition has a different flavour, reflecting the judge’s taste. This year’s judge, Tom Polo, selected an exhibition ranging from the traditional formalism of David Eastwood to the conceptual humour of Kenny Pittock.

He has awarded the prize to Naomi Kantjuriny for her painting Minyma mamu tjuta, from the Tjala Arts Centre. She has described her painting as being about the stories told and her culture.

It is a lively painting of spirits, good and bad, dancing in the land, gathering around people, always present.

The Archibald, Wynne and Sulman Prizes 2024 are on display at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, Sydney, until September 8.The Conversation

Joanna Mendelssohn, Honorary (Senior Fellow) School of Culture and Communication University of Melbourne. Editor in Chief, Design and Art of Australia Online, The University of Melbourne

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. 

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Monday, 3 June 2024

Archibald Prize 2024: This Year’s Finalists Range from Downright Fun to Politically Ferocious

Archibald Prize 2024 finalist, Shaun Gladwell ‘A spangled symbolist portrait of Julian Assange floating in reflection’, oil and aluminum flakes on canvas, 151.5 x 112 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter. Cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn in Paris. 



By Joanna Mendelssohn, The University of Melbourne

Wayne Tunnicliffe, head of Australian art at the Art Gallery of NSW, has a sense of humour. The main entrance to this year’s Archibald, Wynne and Sulman Prize exhibition features a giant black and white photograph of a student demonstration from 1953. At the time the gallery trustees, who are named in Archibald’s will as the judges of the prize, were actively hostile to any idea of modern art. Their taste was so predicable that the gallery’s director, Hal Missingham, would write the telegram congratulating the winner before the voting.

By the 1970s, when I was working at the gallery, trustees were less likely to vote for their mates. But there was a deep cultural disconnect between the aesthetic taste of the gallery’s professional curators, the arts community and the media, who lived in hope of a controversy such as the 1944 William Dobell court case.

The task of turning the trustees’ choice into an interesting exhibition was best described as “a challenge”.

Archibald Prize 2024 finalist, Thom Roberts ‘Big Bamm-Bamm’, synthetic polymer paint on canvas, 152.5 x 102.5 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

In recent years, the gallery’s board has learned to have more faith in the two artist trustees, and winners have tended to reflect their interests. It is therefore appropriate to thank both Tony Albert and Caroline Rothwell, who also judged last year’s prize, for this year’s very lively exhibition. The awarding of the prize to Julia Gutman’s embroidered and painted collage last year appears to have unleashed an especially lively range of entries this year.

In addition, the Packing Room prize is now judged by a trio of the gallery’s expert installation crew, all of whom know more about art than just what they like. This year’s prize winner, Matt Adnate, began as a street artist spraying graffiti. He is now better known for his murals, including some of the popular Yolngu rapper Baker Boy – the subject of his winning painting.

Winner Packing Room Prize 2024, Matt Adnate ‘Rhythms of heritage’, spray paint and synthetic polymer paint on linen, 220 x 188.5 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

The biggest change is that the exhibition has been hung by the Head of Australian Art, an indication the gallery now takes the Archibald very seriously indeed. Only a very brave person would predict this year’s winner of the Archibald Prize.

Whether or not they are likely to win, there are quite a few works that deserve a closer look. Some because they are wittily original, others because of the political message they carry, or because their subject is especially newsworthy. Then there are paintings that simply bring joy.

There is a special pleasure in looking at Emily Crockford’s Singing with my selfie at the top of the world with my imagination, remembering her previous exhibits and seeing how her art has developed. That is also true of Digby Webster, another returned exhibitor who has painted his filmmaker, Trevor. Meagan Pelham, who like Crockford works through Studio A, has called her portrait of the National Portrait Gallery’s curator, Isobel Parker Philip, Highlight in the moonlight.

Archibald Prize 2024 finalist, Emily Crockford ‘Singing with my selfie at the top of the world with my imagination’, synthetic polymer paint on canvas, 150 x 120 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

Drew Bickford’s gloriously lurid Direct-to-Video portrait of filmmaking duo Soda Jerk is at first a puzzle as the two sisters have been melded into one, but he has captured both their ambiguity and their glorious sense of anarchy as they happily make “directors’ cuts” of iconic cinema.

Archibald Prize 2024 finalist, Drew Bickford ‘Direct-to-video’, oil on canvas, 152 x 101.7 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

Camellia Morris’s Wild Wild Wiggle is just fun, while Thom Roberts’ Big Bamm-Bamm is a reminder of a time when anything relating to Ken Done (the sitter) would automatically be rejected.

Archibald Prize 2024 finalist, Camellia Morris ‘Wild Wild Wiggle’, synthetic polymer paint on canvas, 183 x 91.5 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

Several entries in this year’s prize, while not being of politicians, can be described as political, as their subjects are the change-makers who prick our conscience. Chief among these is Shaun Gladwell’s A spangled symbolist portrait of Julian Assange floating in reflection (pictured at the top of this article). Assange’s eyes look out from a balloon of his head, gagged by a US flag. An image of the Queen is stamped on one cheek, based on the banknote Gladwell used to sketch Assange during his time in Belmarsh Prison, while below his head is suspended in profile.

It hangs next to Anna Mould’s Complicit, ostensibly a portrait of Joan Ross, but as with Ross’s own work, this is a critique of colonisation. More conventional portraits of newsmakers include Sam Leach’s sensitive portrait of Louise Milligan and Kirsty Nielson’s angst-ridden portrait of Cheng Lei.

Julia Gutman did not exhibit in this year’s Archibald. Instead she has entered the Wynne with Olive, a suspended sculpture of textiles and wire, showing Olive the dog comforting a grieving friend.

Wynne Prize 2024 finalist, Julia Gutman ‘Olive’, found textiles and wire, 151 x 101 x 1.5 cm © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

Also in the Wynne Prize, the creative duo of Clair Healy and Sean Cordero use flashing lights on their Grey Nomadic Visions. The traditional divisions between different forms of media continue to be dissolved, with Billy Bain’s The fighters incorporating a flag, sewn by his mother.

Juanita McLauchlan’s mudhay burrugarrbuu- bula / Possum Magpie also dissolves the barriers between printing, embroidery and collage to evoke a sense of place. More conventionally, Jenna Mayilema Lee has woven a xanthorrhoea in Grass tree (at rest). But the weaving includes pages from an old dictionary of Aboriginal words.

Wynne Prize 2024 finalist, Jenna Mayilema Lee ‘Grass tree (at rest)’, pages from ‘Aboriginal words and place names’ by AJ Reed (1977), organic cotton thread, bamboo, rice starch glue, book cover board, acacia stool, 185 x 38 x 38 cm (variable) © the artist, image © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter.

The dominance of Indigenous artists in this year’s Wynne Prize is a reminder of how John Olsen, who as an art student vocally objected to the trustees’ conservatism, later became a trustee. In his extreme old age he complained to various news media outlets that Aboriginal artists were not painting landscapes. He was, of course, wrong. The Conversation

Joanna Mendelssohn, Honorary (Senior Fellow) School of Culture and Communication University of Melbourne. Editor in Chief, Design and Art of Australia Online, The University of Melbourne

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Monday, 27 May 2024

Scarlett Johansson’s Row with OpenAI Reminds Us Identity is a Slippery Yet Important Subject. AI leaves Everyone’s at Risk

Vianney Le Caer/AP


By Elizabeth Englezos, Griffith University

OpenAI will be removing access to one of its ChatGPT voices, following objections by actor Scarlett Johansson that it sounds “eerily similar” to her own.

Earlier this week, the company said it was “working to pause” the voice of Sky, which is one of a few options users can choose when conversing with the app.

Johannson said OpenAI’s CEO, Sam Altman, had approached her in September and again in May, asking if she would allow her voice to be used in the system.

She declined, only to hear a voice assistant that sounded uncannily like her only days after the second request. She was, in her own words, “shocked, angered and in disbelief”. OpenAI replied by saying:

AI voices should not deliberately mimic a celebrity’s distinctive voice – Sky’s voice is not an imitation of Scarlett Johansson but belongs to a different professional actress using her own natural speaking voice.

Johansson is known to have voiced an AI in the past, for a role in the fictional 2013 film Her – which Altman has declared himself a fan of. He also recently tweeted the word “her” without much further explanation.

Johansson said she had to hire legal counsel to demand the removal of Sky’s voice and information on how the company created it.

This dispute provides a prescient warning of the future identity harms enabled by AI – harms that could reach any of us at any time.

Identity is a slippery subject

Artificial intelligence is developing at an incredible pace, with OpenAI’s ChatGPT being a game-changer. It’s very likely AI assistants will soon be able to meaningfully converse with users, and even form all sorts of “relationships” with them. This may be why Johansson is concerned.

One thing has become unassailably clear: we can’t out-legislate AI. Instead, we need a right to identity, and with that a right to request the removal, deletion (or otherwise) of content that causes identity harm.

But what exactly is “identity”? It’s a complex idea. Our identity may say nothing about our specific personal traits or qualities, yet it is fundamental to who we are: something we build through a lifetime’s worth of choices.

But it’s also about more than how we see ourselves, as celebrities demonstrate. It’s linked to our image. It is collaborative – cultivated and shaped by how others see us. And in this way it can be tied to our personal traits, such as our voice, facial features, or the way we dress.

Minor attacks against our identity may have limited impacts, but they can add up like death by a thousand cuts.

Legal defences

As AI democratises access to technologies that can manipulate images, audio and video, our identities are becoming increasingly vulnerable to harms not captured by legal protections.

In Australia, school students are already using generative AI to create sexually explicit deepfakes to bully other students.

But unlike deepfakes, most identity harms won’t breach criminal law or draw the ire of the eSafety Commissioner. Most legal avenues afford ill-fitted and piecemeal remedies that can’t heal the damage done. And in many Western democracies, these remedies require legal action that’s more expensive than most can afford.

AI can be used to manipulate or create content that shows “you” doing things you haven’t (or would never do). It could make you appear less competent, or otherwise undermine your reputation.

It could, for example, make you appear drunk in a professional setting, as with former US House Speaker Nancy Pelosi. It could show “you” vaping, when doing so would disqualify you from your sports team, or place you inside a pornographic deepfake video.

Australian law lags behind

The United States Congress recently proposed an actionable right to privacy. But even without this, US protections exceed those offered in Australia.

In the US, privacy is defended through a combination of legal claims, including the publication of private facts, presenting a subject in a false light, or the misappropriation of likeness (as in, co-opting some part of another’s identity and using it for your own purposes).

Based on the limited facts available, US case law suggests Johansson could succeed in action for misappropriation of likeness.

One pivotal case from 1988 featured American singer Bette Midler and the Ford Motor Company. Ford wanted to feature the singer’s voice in an ad campaign. When Midler declined, Ford hired a “sound alike” to sing one of Midler’s most famous songs in a way that sounded “as much as possible” like her.

Midler won, with one court likening Ford’s conduct to that of “the average thief” who simply takes what they can’t buy.

Australian public figures have no equivalent action. In Australia and the UK, the law will intervene where one party seeks to profit by passing off lesser quality look-alikes or sound-alikes as “the real thing”. But this applies only if consumers are misled or if the original suffers a loss.

Misrepresentation might also apply, but only where consumers believe a connection or endorsement exists.

Australia needs a rights-based approach akin to that in the European Union, which has a very specific goal: dignity.

Identity or “personality” rights empower those affected and impose an obligation on those publishing digital content. Subjects may receive damages or may seek injunctions to limit the display or distribution of material that undermines their dignity, privacy or self-determination.

Johansson herself has successfully sued a writer in France on the basis of these protections (although this win was ultimately more symbolic than lucrative).

With AI, it’s now child’s play to impersonate another’s identity. Identity rights are immensely important. Even where these rights co-exist with free speech protections, their very presence enables people to protect their image, name and privacy.The Conversation

Elizabeth Englezos, Lecturer, Griffith Law School, Griffith University

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Monday, 20 May 2024

The King’s First Portrait ~ Understanding the Image Charles Wants to Project for His Reign

PA Images/Alamy


By Gabriele Neher, University of Nottingham

It looks as if many people are “seeing red” when it comes to the first official portrait of King Charles III. Reactions to Jonathan Yeo’s monumental portrait have certainly been mixed.

Fundamentally, this is the most traditional of images. It’s a portrait painted in oil on a monumental scale (it measures nearly seven feet by nine feet) of the the monarch.

Charles wears the red coat of the Welsh Guards, the regiment for which he was made regimental colonel in 1975. A lot of attention has been lavished on his uniform, displaying a range of medals including the striking chain of the Order of the Garter. The colour palette of the painting plays with the rich red hues of that coat.

There are no royal insignia, because this is not the image of a king, this is the image of the patron of The Most Worshipful Company of Drapers, a guild with medieval origins. The portrait was commissioned to mark Charles’s associated with the guild for over 50 years.

Charles’s portrait will join that of his mother, the late Queen Elizabeth II, by the Russian painter Sergei Pavlenko in Draper’s Hall. She had been a Draper since 1947 and the Company commissioned her image on the occasion of the diamond jubilee.

As the first painted image of the king to be revealed since his coronation a year ago, this is the first time that we get a glimpse of the emerging fashioning of the image of King Charles III and, as such, it puts down a marker for how the king wishes to create his own visual legacy.

It’s worth putting this into the context of “self-fashioning” in portraiture, succinctly described by the literary scholar Stephen Greenblatt in 1980 as a process where identity is constructed as a pastiche of carefully selected details. In other words, you don’t get to see the “real” image of a person, what you get to see is an ideal projection of a carefully curated identity, highlighting the aspects they want you to see.

The late queen’s image depicts her in her official uniform for portraiture, the ubiquitous long white gown, worn with a blue sash and the striking blue velvet cloak of the Order of the Garter. Elizabeth’s image is familiar and safe and speaks of constancy and long service.

Like her image, the king’s image keeps firmly within tradition. It does so by following the long-established convention of showing male monarchs in uniform – in this case, in the striking red coat of the Welsh Guards – leaning on the hilt of a ceremonial sword held in front of him.

What is less traditional is the inclusion of a butterfly fluttering above the King’s right shoulder. This butterfly and the king’s face and hands are the only parts of the image that aren’t in shades of reds, oranges and pinks. According to Yeo, the inclusion of that butterfly was Charles’s suggestion, placed on his shoulder as an “attribute” and conversation starter.

There is a long history in portraiture with regards to placing objects as key interpretative markers for the sitter’s personality. A book becomes a symbol of learnedness and wisdom; a dog signifies fidelity and trust; pearls are associated with chastity and virginity – the list goes on.

Every object can be and is imbued with symbolic meaning, and the fewer there are in an image, the more attention the sitter wants to be placed on that stand-out feature. According to the most authoritative compendium on symbolism in art, James Hall’s Dictionary of Subjects and Symbols in Art (1974), the butterfly is a symbol of spirituality, of renewal, of new beginnings, of a rebirth.

In selecting it, Charles could be signalling that he wants his legacy to be that of the monarch who renews and protects, clearly foregrounding his long-established environmental agenda. In his fiery, red image which contrasts so starkly with his mother’s cool and serene one, he offers a first glimpse into how he understands his role in the years of his reign to come.

There are challenges and there is movement, but the focus is on the fragility of the world we live in. The butterfly, delicate and beautiful, the symbol of renewal and longevity is certainly an unexpected attribute for a king, but after 50 years in waiting, Charles has had a long time to think about how to pitch his image.The Conversation

Gabriele Neher, Associate Professor in History of Art, University of Nottingham

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