Rahul Mishra's Superheroes: Celebrating Biodiversity Through Haute Couture in Paris

The celebration of the natural world in Rahul Mishra's SS24 couture collection in Paris. Photograph by Elli Ioannou for DAM 

Rahul Mishra is a trailblazer, a champion of slow fashion through traditional Indian crafts. His eponymous label embodies sustainability, using fashion as a tool to empower local craft communities. Showcased in Paris, his latest haute couture collection for Spring 2024 delves into the symbiotic relationship between humans and the natural world, focusing on the often-overlooked insect kingdom and its vital role in our ecosystem, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photography by Elli Ioannou

 

Fascinated by dragonflies, Mishra has 

incorporated them as an essential part of

his new collection in Paris.

Travelling to the 9th arrondissment on Paris' Rive Droite, the DAM team discover Rahul Mishra's couture show is being held at a monolithic, red-brick former French telephone exchange on the corner of Rue Bergere and Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. 

This is the second time in the past few days we have been to see a runway show at this building with its domed entrance and massive reinforced-concrete facade decorated with an ironwork clock, the signs of the zodiac marking the hours, by the sculptor Szabo. Designed by Francois Le Coeur and constructed between 1911~14, now it is a building site, awaiting a renovation that will turn it into contemporary office space. 

Today, crowds wait outside for the show below the high, stepped entrance. With invitations in hand, we pass through security and tall glass doors open into a foyer which is now a raw concrete shell. Guests wearing 10-inch heels and floor length gowns look with some trepidation at the steep, concrete stairs girded with red builders' tape. 

Skirts are grasped in hand and people launch themselves upwards, some struggling to reach the top of the four flights. We had already seen the American designer Colm Dillane's Kidsuper show here during Paris Fashion Week for menswear, when it was covered in forest of luminescent pink and green, like a contemporary art installation. 

Rahul Mishra not only celebrates the insect kingdom but also calls for a better understanding of these creatures vital to our ecosystems

Mishra also created delicate, abstract

designs to express his ideas about a

permeable architecture that works

with rather than against Nature. 

For his collection, Rahul Mishra created a pared back space that showed the building's industrial bones except for the lavish, sparkling chandeliers and gilt salon chairs for guests to sit on. The vast, unadorned room provided a suitably urban backdrop for his brilliantly-hued designs.

This background with its concrete girders above certainly heightened the contrast with the designer's celebration of all things insect in his collection, sometimes in astonishing detail. 

Each piece showed the exquisite craftsmanship of Mishra's Indian artisans with their use of traditional embroidery, from sequined butterflies and serpents to three dimensional scarabs. These elements were not merely decorative but symbolic, representing the delicate balance of our ecosystem and the importance of preserving it. 

Mishra's collection is a thoughtful reflection on the natural world, emphasizing the intricate beauty and essential role of insects and reptiles. Aptly titled Superheroes, the collections highlights the Indian couturier's respect for nature and his dedication to sustainable fashion. 

 

Drawing inspiration from his personal experiences, Mishra's connection with the natural world is rooted in the Himalayan Forest where he has a house. This serene environment, teeming with diverse species, starkly contrasts with built-up cities where insects, snakes and reptiles are often viewed as pests. Mishra's reflections on the world through his work emphasize the need to bridge the gap between our urban lives and nature, fostering a greater sense of harmonious coexistence. 

This collection was not just about sumptuous visual splendour but also carried a profound message about biodiversity and the urgent need to preserve it

The Serpents Labyrinth, designed

to evoke the snake as an ancient symbol.

The first look of the show set the tone with a striking representation of a petri dish, complete with meticulously embroidered dragonfly (see main picture above). This piece, with its lifelike detail, evoked a sense of Mishra's wonder and reverence for plants and animals and his delight in bringing them into his collection.

"It's disheartening to envision a future where a magnificent creature like a dragonfly is discovered for the first time by a young child in petri dish," Mishra says. 

Another of the key pieces is the Serpents Labyrinth designed to represent this feared reptile instead as an ancient symbol of rebirth, renewal and wisdom. Mishra hopes people will look at the snake in another light as an essential part of our biosphere. 

Other standout designs were a deep azure ruffled cape dress called Sapphire Rain, a hand-embroidered Divine Being look with a dragonfly corset top and sequined ivory trousers and the circular Moth Light design created as an embroidery installation showing colourful moths against the bodice. 

Another more abstract creation is the Azure's Tree jacket and trousers which gleams in cobalt blue with a design that mimics bitten leaves by insects. These pieces highlight Mishra's ability to blend artistic vision with technical virtuosity. His designs symbolize the need to protect flora and fauna along with their habitats. 

This collection was not just about sumptuous visual splendor but also carried a profound message about biodiversity and the pressing need to preserve it. Mishra's work urges us to appreciate these "benign architects of the planet" and to recognize their crucial role in maintaining ecological balance. 

The designer's commitment to empowering local craftspeople not only helps maintain traditional crafts but also promotes more sustainable fashion practices

A silvery, realistic lizard is intricately

hand-embroidered on to a long,

black skirt by local artisans,

The social consciousness embedded in Mishra's work was further highlighted by his quotation of the entire D.H. Lawrence poem Snake as his show notes. The poem, which narrates an encounter with a serpent, reflects the societal instinct to destroy what we do not understand. The designer's collection challenges this mindset, encouraging a shift towards admiration and preservation.  

The realistic representations of insects and reptiles on his garments evoke a sense of delight rather than trepidation. While the meticulous craftsmanship in the designer's collections is a testament to the dedication and skill of the artisans he uses across India.  

Each garment, with its intricate hand embroidery and detailed appliqués, represents countless hours of labor and love. Mishra's commitment to empowering local craftspeople not only helps maintain traditional crafts but also promotes more sustainable fashion practices. 

In a world dominated by fast fashion, Mishra's slow fashion demonstrates a more ethical and responsible approach. By employing time-honored methods and supporting communities of artisans, he creates fashion that is not only beautiful but also meaningful. The designer's work shows how haute couture can be both luxurious and environmentally friendly, offering a compelling alternative to the mass-produced garments flooding the market. 

In a world dominated by fast fashion, Mishra's slow fashion demonstrates a more ethical and responsible approach to producing garments

Layers and layers of hand-cut, bright-pink tulle 

create the striking volume of these capes and gowns. 

Mishra's palette for this collection was as bold as his message, featuring vibrant hues in dark blues, lime greens and deep pinks. These colors, inspired by flowers and insects, add a dynamic element to the collection, enhancing its overall visual impact. 

The bright hues combined with the elaborate embellishments, made the collection both striking and thought-provoking. A touching exploration of Nature and its beauty. 

Through the art of his designs, Mishra not only celebrates the insect kingdom but also calls for a better understanding of these vital creatures to our ecosystems. His commitment to sustainability and historic craftsmanship shines through this collection, offering hope to an industry often criticized for its environmental impact. Rahul Mishra's Superheroes remind us that true power over our future on this planet lies with creating harmony and a positive coexistence with the natural world.

Highlights from the Rahul Mishra SS24 Haute Couture show in Paris 

Fashion Meets Physics: Inside KidSuper’s 'String Theory' Show in Paris

American dancer Julian Mackay, a principal at the Bavarian State Ballet, performs at the Kidsuper show in Paris. Photograph by Nicholas MacKay. 

In an engaging fusion of fashion, art, and science, KidSuper’s Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show, titled String Theory, unveiled a collection that epitomizes the brand’s multifaceted approach. Colm Dillane uses his label to push the boundaries of traditional fashion shows to offer an immersive experience. Although, this season the American designer wanted it to be all about the clothes, he still opened with a spectacular dance performance and closed the presentation with superstar Brazilian soccer player Ronaldinho, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento

Soccer legend Ronaldinho with

designer Colm Dillane at the

finale of the show in Paris

INSIDE the grey concrete shell of a building site in Paris' 9th arrondissment, at a former early 20th century telephone exchange (a favourite with designers this season), Colm Dillane created an evocative space filled with long strings hanging from the ceiling and lit atmospherically. A metaphor for the American designer's exploration of the interconnectedness of all things, it was inspired by the theoretical framework of string theory, which proposes that the universe is composed of tiny, vibrating strings that form the fabric of reality. 

Showing his mathematical background and interest in science, Dillane wanted to explore in a playful way how the contradictions between Einstein's theory of relativity and quantum mechanics suggests that the fundamental constituents of the universe are not point particles, but rather one-dimensional strings that vibrate at different frequencies. 

These strings are intertwined in complex, multidimensional layers that reveal a deeper, intricate structure. Dillane drew a parallel between this scientific theory and the essence of KidSuper, highlighting the exploration of hidden connections and underlying patterns in our world. In the show notes, the designer even had an explanatory abstract written by his dad on the front page to this effect. 

The runway show itself was a testament to this philosophy. It wasn't only a display of fashion but an experimental playground where each piece told a story, inviting the audience to delve into the layers of creativity. The atmosphere was electric, with a palpable sense of anticipation as Ronaldinho, Jim Jones, Julian MacKay, and Dermot Kennedy walked the runway. 

The show's set design was a metaphor for Dillane's exploration of the interconnectedness of all things, inspired by the theoretical framework of string theory

Rapper Jim Jones struts his

stuff on the runway in 

KidSuper creations

The show kicked off with an enthralling performance by American ballet dancer Julian MacKay, a principal at the Bavarian State Ballet, whose graceful movements set the stage for the unfolding narrative. Dressed in a ruffled black outfit, MacKay's dance was combined with the music from live violin players. Beneath the layers, the dancer revealed a suit adorned with pointillist portraits. Following the violin performance, there was a dynamic hip-hop track featuring British rapper Giggs. 

Another rapper and music producer, Jim Jones added his flair to the show, strutting confidently in a burgundy suit paired with a coat embroidered with Dillane’s whimsical sketches. However, it was the appearance of soccer legend Ronaldinho that truly stole the show. 

Clad in a voluminous faux fur coat and a t-shirt emblazoned with his own image, Ronaldinho's presence highlighted the show's blend of high fashion and popular culture, much to the delight of the star-studded audience. 

The collection offered a mix of avant-garde aesthetics and practical wearability. Originally founded on streetwear in Brooklyn, New York, the KidSuper ethos of intricate designs and artwork blend successfully with puffer jackets, shirts and jeans. Accessories played an important role in enhancing the overall look, with Boston bags, crossbody bags, and hiking boots featuring prominently. The footwear, including loafers and thick-laced hiking boots, added a rugged note to ensembles, many in the designer's favourite purple.  

Soccer legend Ronaldinho stole the show, clad in a voluminous faux fur coat and a t-shirt emblazoned with his own image, highlighting the mix of high fashion and popular culture

One of the elegant suits

emblazoned with Dillane's 

signature artwork

Colm Dillane has always envisioned Kidsupter as more than just a clothing brand. He sees it as a creative collective that encompasses various forms of art, from painting and music to film and performance. Dillane's approach to design is one of energetic enthusiasm and a belief that everything is interconnected.

This philosophy was vividly reflected in this season's runway show, which served as a platform for Dillane to showcase his diverse talents and collaborative spirit. 

The show also featured pieces from KidSuper’s latest collaboration with Canada Goose and their partnership with the NBA. These included reversible fleece jackets, puffer vests, and footwear. The commercial partnership shows Dillane's ability to merge outerwear with artistic expression, resulting in pieces that are both functional and eye-catching. 

The designer's work has garnered significant recognition, including the 2021 special Karl Lagerfeld award at the LVMH Prize and the 2022 CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Dillane’s guest design role for Louis Vuitton Homme’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection further cemented his status as a rising star in the fashion world. 

For Colm Dillane, KidSuper is a platform to explore and experiment while his collaborative approach, often facilitated through social media, allows him to connect with other creative minds and bring different perspectives to his work. The AW24 runway show blended art, science, and fashion into a cohesive narrative that was both intellectually stimulating and visually appealing. 

More highlights below from the Kidsuper AW24 show in Paris, including backstage 

What was the Mantua? How a 17th-century Gown Transformed Dressmaking and Ushered in Financial Freedom for Women

Diego Velázquez, Portrait of the Infanta Maria Theresa of Spain, 1653, an early version of the mantua

By Sarah Bendall, Australian Catholic University

If you’ve watched many period dramas, you’ve probably seen a mantua before. Originating in France in the 1670s, this women’s garment consisted of lengths of t-shaped fabric that were pleated to create an unstiffened bodice with attached overskirts.

This gown was worn over a pair of stays (corset) and an often contrasting petticoat. The draping and folding of fabric created a front-opening gown.

What many people don’t realise, however, is how fundamentally this item of clothing altered women’s involvement in the fashion industry – and represented a ticket to financial freedom for an industry of female mantua makers.

The robe à la française was a mantua style that featured loose back pleats that draped to the floor. The Met/Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1954

What was the mantua?

After its invention in the 1670s, the new gown became immediately popular among fashionable Parisian women.

Although strict dress codes at the Versailles court of French King Louis XIV prohibited the wearing of mantuas, women at the English court helped popularise it in England.

By the 1680s, the mantua was widely worn in Western and Central Europe, as well as in European colonies around the world. It soon became the basis for all women’s gowns in the 18th century.

Popular versions of the mantua in 18th century included:

• the loose style called a robe volante

• the iconic robe à la française (sometimes called a sack gown) with its back pleats that draped to the floor, and

• the tighter fitting robe à la anglaise  (also known as English or Italian gowns).

The robe à l’anglaise had fitted back pleats and was tighter compared to its French counterpart. The Met/Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 2018

Tailors vs mantua makers

As well as changing the look of western fashions, the mantua radically changed women’s involvement in the fashion industry.

Before the 17th century, outer garments were usually made by male tailors. Apprenticeships and membership of guilds – the organisations that controlled most craft trades – were restricted to boys and men.

Women did participate informally in these professions. They sometimes worked alongside tailor family members (and some were fined for doing so) and widows were permitted to carry on the businesses of their deceased husbands.

Women had also historically worked as seamstresses or “silkwomen” making small linen or silk goods like underwear and accessories.

This loose 1730s style was called a robe volante. The Met/Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2010

However, this began to change in the late 17th century during what came to be known as the consumer revolution – a period, beginning in the 1600s, that saw a significant jump in the consumption of luxury goods.

Significantly, in 1675, women in Paris and Rouen acquired their own, independent couturière (dressmaking) guilds and began to take over making women’s clothing from male tailors.

In London, guilds with dwindling memberships also began to permit paying female members.

Due to the considerable influence of France on western fashions, women in London began to train under French dressmakers, giving rise to what were known in English as mantua makers.

Dressmaking and financial freedom

From the 18th to 20th centuries, dressmaking and other fashion or textile-related industries were the main source of formal employment for women in Britain, Australia and the United States (alongside teaching and domestic service).

New training opportunities in dressmaking – coupled with historical peculiarities such as London’s feme sole status, which allowed married women to run businesses and have finances independent of their husbands – meant many women began to open their own businesses.

Single women often lived in houses with other mantua makers and their apprentices, working as teams. Married women usually operated in workshops in the family home alongside their husbands, many of whom worked as tailors.

By the mid-18th century, manuals instructing parents on craft apprenticeships for their children noted mantua making was a large trade

reckoned a genteel, as well as profitable Employ [for women], many of them living well and saving Money.

But several male tailoring guilds in Europe attempted to stop women working as mantua makers, claiming they were taking away their business. Additionally, many women who worked in the garment-making industries were poorly paid and often worked in cramped conditions.

Mantuas were sometimes pinned up at the back like this 1690s example. The Met/Rogers Fund, 1933

Yet, many did rise above. French mantua makers were particularly popular, with women in London paying substantially more for gowns made by French women with access to the latest fashion knowledge in Paris.

Some became confidants of queens. The famous fashion merchant Marie-Jeanne “Rose” Bertin designed many of French queen Marie Antoinette’s gowns (her detractors labelled her the queen’s “minister of fashion”).

These networks gave these women access to vast amounts of clients and social capital. By the 19th century, senior dressmakers and milliners called modistes often ran their own luxury fashion houses in the West End of London.

Mantua making was also a significant business opportunity for women in Australia.

“M. Hayes”, Catherine Mellon and Martha Matthews were all “mantua makers and milliners” who advertised their services in the early years of the Sydney colony.

Legacies of mantua makers

During the early years of the 19th century, mantuas fell out of use as new styles appeared. The term “dressmaker” also came to slowly replace the term “mantua maker”.

However, the gendered segregation of labour remained. During much of the 19th and 20th centuries, men were more likely to be tailors and have their clothing made by tailors. Women were more likely to be dressmakers and have their clothing made by dressmakers. The skills and techniques of each profession remained quite different.

With the advent of modern fast fashion, the skills of both tailors and dressmakers are fast being lost, and with it the knowledge of this revolutionary trade for women.

Sarah Bendall, Research Fellow, Gender and Women's History Research Centre, Institute for Humanities and Social Sciences, Australian Catholic University

Paris Men's Fashion Week: Kidill's Autumn-Winter 2024 Collection: A Tribute to Punk's Unchanging Spirit and Renewed Rebellion

One of the new punk-inspired designs from Hiroaki Sueyasu new collection in Paris

Embodying the essence of punk, Hiroaki Sueyasu, the visionary force behind Kidill, not only commemorates its rebellious legacy but also reshapes the narrative for a new era. The resonance of the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection extends beyond fashion and is more of a cultural manifesto, an impassioned ode to punk's indomitable spirit, writes Antonio Visconti

Portrait of Japanese designer Hiroaki Sueyasu

IN the dynamic realm of fashion, where trends ebb and flow like the tide, Kidill's new collection emerges as a testament to the enduring spirit of punk. 

The recent passing of Jamie Reid, the iconic British artist known for his collaboration with the Sex Pistols, has cast a poignant shadow over the fashion landscape. 

For Hiroaki Sueyasu, Kidill’s artistic director, this loss marks not just the departure of an influential figure but the unraveling of a personal journey that began in collaboration with Reid for Autumn/Winter 2020.

In Sueyasu's own words, "Jamie was my very starting point." The profound impact of Reid's work and the collective influence of the early punk movement have left a void, one that Sueyasu poignantly describes as a tremendous loss.  Reid was more than an artist to Sueyasu; he was a reflection, a portrayal of the self.

Acknowledging the departure of remarkable figures who shaped early punk, Sueyasu speaks of a duty to ensure that the essence of punk, a force that has influenced our time and people, remains alive. In offering condolences that transcend the inimitable, Sueyasu declares, 'they are eternal,' affirming a commitment to immortalizing the legacy of punk pioneers.

The profound impact of Reid's work and the collective influence of the early punk movement have left a tremendous void

Punk for a new era

Sueyasu delves into the dichotomy of classic styles, recognizing the risk of becoming mere iconography over time. However, he asserts that stylized beauty has the capacity to absorb contemporary diversity and persist into the future yet anchored in the present. 

This philosophical underpinning sets the stage for the preeminent theme of the new collection: celebration of the positive energy of those who continue to breathe life into the rebellion embodied by punk.

The collection, a vibrant tapestry of DIY-inspired embellishments, prints, and jacquard weaves, crafted by Japanese artisans, serves as an exploration of the intersection between early punk classicism and the modern design ethos. 

Sueyasu pays homage to punk through deconstruction and the revival of ripped denim that is vintage and resewn, evoking the raw essence of the punk movement.

The direct message of this season’s collection resonates with the half-century history of punk, emphasizing its signature identity and attitude. Once perceived as a subculture confined to specific appearances, punk has transcended insularity. 

It has been inherited by many as a spirit of protest, propelling the evolution of a modern, independent culture. As articulated by Sueyasu, it has become a value system that respects individuality through freedom and expression.

The new collection crafted by Japanese artisans, serves as an exploration of the intersection between early punk classicism and the modern design ethos

Rebellion is the heart of punk

Sueyasu's return to the roots signifies more than a nostalgic homage; it is a channeling of origins, a rebirth and renewal of the brand. "As a matter of fact, my initial impulse and resistance remain the same." This simplicity becomes a poignant statement in a fashion landscape often dominated by complexity and change.

Born in Fukuoka, Japan, Sueyasu's journey from Omura Beauty and Fashion College to the vibrant streets of London in 2002 laid the foundation for a self-educated designer with a profound respect for the graphic artists of the punk age. Kidill, launched in 2014, draws inspiration from London punk, post-punk, and grunge cultures.

From the first runway collection in Tokyo for the 2014-15 Autumn/Winter season to the opening of the flagship store, Kidill Room, in Tokyo's Shibuya in 2016, Sueyasu's trajectory has been marked by accolades, including design awards and the governors prize for the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix. Collaborations with respected artists include Dennis Morris, Public Image Limited, Sheila Rock, and Jamie Reid, among others.

Kidill's independent showcase in Paris since Spring/Summer 2021 and its inclusion on the official schedule for Paris Fashion Week from the Autumn/Winter 2021 underscore the label's growing influence on the global fashion stage. In paying homage to punk's roots, Sueyasu and Kidill not only celebrate a storied past but redefine rebellion for a new era. The latest collection is not just a fashion statement; it is more of a cultural manifesto, an ode to punk's unyielding spirit. 

Backstage with Timothée Chalamet in Los Angeles

Timothee Chalamet relaxes and plays the piano in LA as he gets ready for the Golden Globes in Celine Homme by Hedi Slimane.Photographs by Julian Ungano

As the curtain closed on the 81st Annual Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles, the spotlight remained on the effortlessly stylish Timothée Chalamet. While the accolade for Best Actor may have slipped through his fingers, the backstage glimpse into his pre-awards preparation reveals a star who shines just as bright offstage, writes Antonio Visconti

CAPTURED by the lens of the talented Julian Ungano, our exclusive behind-the-scenes look showcases Chalamet in the final moments before stepping onto the red carpet. Dressed in a meticulously curated ensemble by Hedi Slimane for Celine Homme, Chalamet exuded an air of understated confidence.

The embroidered jacket in wool gabardine, a striking creation in classic black, stole the show backstage. The intricate detailing and tailored fit hinted at the craftsmanship that goes into every Celine Homme piece, setting the tone for an evening of sartorial style.

Beneath the jacket, the loose shirt in cotton poplin took centre stage. In the moments before the grand reveal, Chalamet showcased how comfort and style effortlessly coalesce. The black shirt, elegantly unbuttoned, offered a glimpse of the actor's laid-back yet refined approach to fashion.

 As the final touches were added, the classic tux trousers in grain de poudre wool completed the ensemble with a nod to elegance. Chalamet's choice of black-on-black proved to be a good choice, creating a look that was sophisticated yet relaxed.

The drugstore Chelsea boots in calfskin, signature pieces from Hedi Slimane's design repertoire, added a contemporary edge and served as a testament to Chalamet's willingness to embrace avant-garde elements within traditional menswear. 

In the heart of Los Angeles, on the eve of the Golden Globes, Chalamet's backstage preparation unfolded giving a glimpse of his commitment to both craft and style. Though the Best Actor trophy eluded him and went to Paul Giametti, his Celine ensemble and the meticulous attention to detail provided a glimpse into a fashion-forward approach that resonates beyond the confines of the red carpet. As the curtain falls on this year's awards, one thing is certain: Timothée Chalamet's style steals the spotlight, both on and off the stage.

Scroll down or tap photographs to see more of Timothée Chalamet preparing for the awards ceremony.