Modern Ballet: NYC Dance Project by Ken Browar and Deborah Ory

Ashley Ellis, Principal Dancer at the Boston Ballet shot by photographers Deborah Ory and Ken Browar at their studio in New York City.

American photographers Deborah Ory and Ken Browar created the NYC Dance Project to shoot contemporary and classical dancers in New York, capturing their dynamism and beauty, Antonio Visconti reports

DEBORAH Ory started her career as a modern dancer while Ken Browar worked as a fashion photographer. Today, working together they are able to use each of their different strengths to create startling portraits of New York's top dancers. The dance project grew from their shared love of the human body in motion. 

“It is a celebration of dancers’ bodies," says Ken Browar. "Dancers must simultaneously be artists and athletes, and we try to highlight both qualities of our subjects in the photographs.” Ory and Browar describe their collaboration as one of  "give and take" between both them and their subjects.  

“We want to showcase and celebrate the dancers as individuals so that our project becomes a diverse portrait of New York's dance community,’’ says Browar. “Even in photographs where the dancers wear costumes, we look for the human being within the character they are playing.”

They prepare each shoot as though it is a dance production, working like choreographers and designing the sets, lighting, mood and movement to reflect the particular qualities of each dancer. “Our favorite moments are the simple ones: the breath the dancer takes after a jump, the quiet introverted moments often only seen backstage, or the second, mid-motion, when the dancer feels free,’’ says Deborah Ory.

Today, Browar and Ory live in Greenpoint, Brooklyn with two teenage daughters who are studying to be ballerinas. Browar’s passion for dance began when he lived in Paris and photographed dancers from the Paris Opera Ballet. His fashion photography has appeared in Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire and other European fashion magazines.

Ory began studying dance as a child and  made it her profession until she was injured and began her photography career, shooting the rehearsals she could not participate in. After moving to New York City, she worked as a photo editor at magazines such as House & Garden and Mirabella and began shooting editorial work for international design publications.

Click on photographs for full-screen slideshow

Marcelo Gomes, Principal Dancer at the American Ballet Theatre. “Our work is a celebration of dancers’ bodies," says Ken Browar. "Dancers must simultaneously be artists and athletes, and we try to highlight both qualities of our subjects in the photographs.” 

Ashley Ellis, Principal Dancer from the Boston Ballet making a graceful pose in New York. “Our favorite moments are the simple ones: the breath the dancer takes after a jump, the quiet introverted moments often only seen backstage, or the second, mid-motion, when the dancer feels free,’’ says Deborah Ory

The sheer physicality of dance ~ Alexandre Hammoudi, Soloist at American Ballet Theatre. They prepare each shoot as though it is a dance production, working like choreographers and designing the sets, lighting, mood and movement to reflect the particular qualities of each dancer. 

“Even in photographs where the dancers wear costumes, we look for the human being within the character they are playing,” says Ken Browar. Dancer Gabrielle Salvatto, currently shooting the film Flesh & Bone. Photographed in New York at Browar and Ory's studio.

The expressive Daniil Simpkin, Principal Dancer at the American Ballet Theatre.

Stretching ~ Daniil Simpkin of the American Ballet Theatre. 

Anthony Javier Savoy of the Dance Theatre of Harlem shows his elegance and strength.

Perfect alignment ~ Anthony Javier Savoy and Gabrielle Salvatto, dancers from the Dance Theatre of Harlem 

Expressive contemporary dance ~ Anthony Javier Savoy and Gabrielle Salvatto from the Dance Theatre of Harlem

Taking a flying leap ~ Anthony Javier Savoy of the Dance Theatre of Harlem.

Dancer Gabrielle Salvatto, currently shooting the film Flesh & Bone. Photographed in New York at Browar and Ory's NY studio.

Hee Seo is a principal dancer with American Ballet Theatre. Born in Seoul, Seo is the first South Korean principal with the ABT as well as being one of the youngest dancers in the company to hold this title.

All suited up and ready to dance ~ Daniil Simkin of the American Ballet Theatre.

Valentino in Rome: Light at the Heart of the City's Darkness

Modern Roman princess: golden gladiator sandals and a dress decorated with wheat sheaves captures a sense of Rome's ancient and contemporary beauty and excess.

Valentino’s evocative haute couture collection shown in Rome’s historic heart at Piazza Mignanelli was set against the scenic backdrop of Renaissance palazzi and the great column of the Madonna of the Immaculate Conception. The atmospheric show offered light, beauty and opulence amid the unkempt Eternal City's current woes of near bankruptcy and an internecine corruption scandal, reports Jeanne-Marie Cilento

ROMAN sylphs clad in floating black, red and golden gowns adorned with filigree coronets and elaborate parures, strolled through Valentino’s haute couture Autumn/Winter 2015 show at twilight in Piazza Mignanelli. Artist Pietro Ruffo designed a wooden, modernist confection of the Roman Forum as a backdrop to the majestic collection by Valentino's award-winning creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pierpaolo Piccioli
 

"Rome is a very layered city, a very sinister city, it’s not a postcard,” Mr. Piccioli said. “And all the layers are still there: paganism, Catholicism, imperialism, baroque. It’s a balance that is entirely unique. We wanted to show Rome as living history.”

The beautiful spectacle in Piazza Mignanelli, along with exhibitions of Valentino creations in the 18th-century Casanatense library and the Bath of Diana, were held in a city wracked by the Rome Commune’s Mafia Capital scandal, struggles with bankruptcy and crumbling public services. 

The corruption investigation has engulfed Rome's city hall, housed in a Renaissance palace designed by Michelangelo overlooking the ruins of the ancient Roman forum. The probe and the first wave of arrests have rattled Italy, suggesting organised crime is flourishing far beyond its base in Southern Italy. 

Collapsing under 14 billion euros ($15.5 billion) of debt, Rome was only saved from complete bankruptcy by emergency state funds. Today, the ancient stony streets of the centro storico are dim, grimy and pot-holed, making a strong contrast to the sleek new Valentino store in Piazza Mignanelli, the brand’s largest retail space in the world at more than 20,000 square feet.

Pierpaolo Piccioli: "Rome is a very layered city, a very sinister city, it’s not a postcard. All the layers are still there: paganism, Catholicism, imperialism, baroque."

Tilda Swinton and Mika attend

the Valentino show in Rome

This type of fashion extravaganza has not been in the city seen since Valentino Garavani, founder of the Valentino fashion house, celebrated its 45th anniversary in Rome in 2007 with a retrospective at the Museo dell’Ara Pacis, a ball at the Villa Borghese, and a dinner and fireworks at the Temple of Venus. 

Ms. Chiuri and Mr. Piccioli became creative directors of the brand six years ears ago and have skillfully brought their own aesthetic to Valentino. “Everything is so global now, we think it’s very important to be personal,” Mr. Piccioli said. “We feel a social responsibility to this job,” Ms. Chiuri added. “We can’t talk only about clothes."

Artist Pietro Ruffo designed a wooden, modernist confection of the Roman Forum as a backdrop to the majestic collection by Valentino's joint creative directors 

A deep red gown in silk crepe

Yet the designers have beautifully and skillfully captured both the discipline and rigor of design in ancient Rome and the extravagant folly of the 16th Century baroque in a collection full of chiaroscuro: strong contrasts of light and dark all worn with flat gladiator sandals and boots in black or gold, and golden necklaces, belts and crowns and the motif of the eagle. 

"We love Rome's beauty, its contrasts, its multiple facets, its ability to change in time and to project itself into the future,” explains Maria Grazia Chiuri. Long, draped gowns in semi-transparent organza or shimmering velvet were mixed with curvilinear wool capes with pure lines and brocade trim, and short dresses created from intertwined golden feathers and wheat fronds. Cardinal Red organza dresses with full skirts under sheer tops and sleeveless gladiatorial gowns of silk crepe under embroidered gold leather. 

Maria Grazie Chiuri: "We love Rome's beauty, its contrasts, its multiple facets, its ability to change in time and to project itself into the future.” 

The designers with actor Ben Stiller

 at the candlelit dinner at Villa Aurelia

The eagle, the symbol of the Roman legions was used throughout the collection. A painting Mr. Piccioli and Ms. Chiuri uncovered while renovating their atelier in Rome was recreated on velvet. The great domed ceiling of the Pantheon was embroidered almost three-dimensionally onto an asymmetric caped minidress while other gowns were made in a brocade of mosaics.

After the dramatic show in Piazza Mignanelli close to the Spanish Steps, the designers were given a standing ovation.

The great and the good of fashionable Rome along with guests including Gwyneth Paltrow, Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson sat down to a candle-lit, romantic dinner set under the trees of the gardens at the 17th-century Villa Aurelia. Looking out over the Eternal City, the lights are still twinkling despite the dark tremors at its heart.

Scroll down to see more highlights from the collection in Rome

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created long, fluid dresses evoking a dark and fragile poetry.

A draped, flowing dress like an ancient Roman statue of a goddess with opulent embellishments in opaque gold.

Embroidery with metallic thread adorns this gown creating a three dimensional effect 

Delicate, beaded dress falling in long vertical folds of organza with a richly-sculpted necklace and fine gold coronet of stars and bees.

Alessandro Gaggio’s jewellery adds an element of drama to the regal looks including the stars of the Altieri family and the bee representing the Barberini.

For the Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli wanted to show a Rome full of both opulence and a dark beauty.

The designers also wanted to express the essence of Rome in the collection through the quality of the materials and textures and create a "multisensory" experience like this dress in lace and feathers.

Long organza dresses in Cardinal red with sheer tops and full skirts were one of the key motifs in the collection

The leather folds of ancient Rome's soldiers are cleverly reworked to create a long gladiatorial gown embroidered in red and black.

The great domed ceiling of the Pantheon replicated as embroidery, almost three dimensionally, on a caped minidress. "With the Valentino Mirabilia Romae project we wanted to depict through our eyes the beauties of the city of Rome, a constant source of inspiration for us ~ both the ancient and the new," say designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

As light as air, the Valentino evening gowns subtly reveal and conceal the body

Unexpected contemporary detailing gave the collection a richness and depth and a sense of modernity.

Golden wheat sheaves give this splendid evening dress a connection to the symbolism of Rome.

A dramatic fall of Cardinal red drapery across one shoulder links the dress back to the flowing folds of ancient Rome's clothes 

 Diaphanous gowns with fine embroidery are cinched at the waist by delicate gold belts

New Fashion Trends: Mens Collections Spring/Summer 2016

 David Gandy wears one of the key trends seen on the catwalk this SS16 season, the bomber jacket in soft suede. Photography by Mike Rolls

As the Spring/Summer 2016 men’s shows come to a close for the season,  London Collections: Men has become, in just a few short years, one of the most anticipated events on the menswear fashion calendar along with Milan, Paris and New York, Limor Helfgott reports

 All suited up in London, David Gandy out and about.
Photo by Scott Wilson

THIS season there was such a broad spectrum of looks for men ranging from the sharp tailoring of long established London brands to quirky styles and streetwear from emerging design talents. There were a few key trends that we noted on the men's runways that stood out in London in contrast to the shows in Milan and Paris. We round up some of the summer essentials for men with some tips on how to wear them. Shirts off? Revealing designs that showed off men's chests on the catwalk were one of the  strong looks this season. Rory Parnell-Mooney at the MAN collection had tops with angular peep holes exposing model’s torso.


American jocks featured at Sibling.
Photo By Limor Helfgott

However, it was Sibling that took the trend to a whole new level. It was a fun show with sassy cheerleaders and American jocks taking to the catwalk, inspired by Kehinde Wiley’s portraits of the modern man. The collection featured tailored suits (a surprising addition for Sibling) made of luxury fabrics alongside male models bearing their abs and wearing laced corsets, front-tied tiny briefs over leggings and attention grabbing pants with cut out holes at the back. It was athlete meets mod and the arrogant jocks on the catwalk joined female cheerleaders, emphasising the American culture. A lot of the collection is not wearable but certainly we will see lace detailing in men’s fashion. The rise of the Man clutch 
One of the standout trends among the street style looks and fashion show attendees was the man clutch as a practical yet stylish accessory that is clearly replacing the man bag, the backpack or the heavy holdall. On the catwalks the interpretation was quite different, proving that sometimes form wins over function.


Patent flats and hanging metal
 manbags at J.W Anderson 

A good example is the J.W. Anderson collection, Boy in Space, that had a feminine aesthetic. Partly inspired by David Bowie, the collection played with gender, just like the legendary pop star. J.W Anderson presented coiled-metal structured bags with hanging utilities such as bottle openers and key chains that were teamed with an 80’s vibe such as over sized collars on shirts, leather trench coats and high-waisted trousers. The models wore patent red scarlet flats that definitely stood out and gave the finishing touch to the overall feminine look.


Big rucksacks & bags  at Christopher Raeburn.
Photo by Limor Helfgott

Whereas designer Christopher Raeburn took inspiration from the island of Borneo featuring large orangutan rucksacks.

These were a striking new interpretation of his animal bags and a percentage of each bag sold will be donated to the Orangutan Foundation.



The lacy collection at Burberry Prorsum
with the new Barrow bag

Burberry’s CEO and creative director, Christopher Bailey, presented a lace-inspired collection for men for his SS16 collection with a strong accessory range including the Barrow: a men’s document case with a high-shine patent leather finish in different materials and colours. There were also alligator document folders and raffia clutches teamed with Scottish cashmere scarves, bug tie pins and tassel loafers. 


 Henry Holland with his first menswear
collection: sporty yet tailored. 

Prints and TechnicolourPrints and patterns were strong looks at the last Autumn/Winter 2015 collections. This season they were loud, lively and often made up of an eccentric mix of colours and designs.


House of Holland, a previously exclusively women’s clothing brand, launched its first menswear collection this season. Designed by Henry Holland, in collaboration with photographer Martin Parr, the colourful and fun collection fused sportswear in technical fabrics with more traditional tailoring techniques.

 James Long's stylish collection with touches of neon.
Photo by Dan Sims

Influenced by ’90’s rave culture, a standout look in the collection was a matching two-piece yellow tracksuit. Dizzingly patterned bold prints in clashing colours were a big part of the new collection. Kit Neale’s show mixed psychedelic patterns with vivid colours and clashing prints. Splashes of lime green and yellow, pink and blue and silks in burnt orange and red. Accessories included lavish Bernstock Sperids 90's bucket hats and earrings. 



Alexander McQueen's show featured nautical motifs.  
Photo by Shaun Cox

Creative freedom was at the heart of James Long’s SS16 collection with paisley prints and bright colours. Outstanding pieces included a wonderful denim patchwork jacket, sweatshirts and trackpants emblazoned in a neon scribble print especially drawn by James Davison.
The Alexander McQueen collection, inspired by The Tempest and Rime of the Ancient Mariner, moved further away from last season’s painterly themes to more geometric designs with a nautical motif. “It was about the idea of being at sea and having a sense of belonging there, of identifying yourself through the sea,” said Sarah Burton, the brand's creative director. Nautical tattoo motifs were incorporated onto suits and jackets with classic men’s silhouettes. Pieces included slim-fitting dinner jackets, pyjama-style shirts, asymmetric knitted sweaters and suits patterned in ship’s camouflage. While prints and embellishments were key to the collection, the colour palette was quite a subtle one including black, off-white, navy blue, aqua and orange.


The bold, oriental collection by Xander Zhou.
 Photo by Liron Weissman

The East has arrived Oriental silhouettes and prints were a key theme this season, including the bold collection of Beijing-based menswear designer Xander Zhou: “The East has arrived. Salute and embrace it,” he declared.

The designer explored symbols and signs and presented unexpected twists using Chinese embroidery: felt biker jackets decorated with silk flowers and contrasting quilted pockets in a digital print. While eastern inspiration was very evident, the expression of London street style in the 80’s was also a part of the designer’s inspiration, proving once more that it is as much relevant now as it was then.


 Wearing the trends 
A key material this season was the use of suede in many of the collections. A good suede jacket will be a wise investment this year and always adds a luxurious feel to an outfit whether it is biker, bomber or anorak in style. Even though outerwear wasn’t a big part of the spring summer collection, in places like London jackets are still a part of our wardrobe even in June. In the front rows of the LCM fashion show, Nickolas Grimshaw, Tinie Tempah and David Gandy, were all spotted wearing suede. 


Street style: vivid pattern.
Photo by Liron Weissman

Prints and Patterns 
Up until a few seasons ago, it was all about being minimal in menswear, preferably in a flat range of white, black and grey. But it is obvious now that prints are here to stay. One thing that is making its way back to the men’s wardrobe is the graphic t-shirt. Always an easy way to make a statement, many designers are creating t-shirts to emphasise their collection’s theme and to express themselves. Wearing prints is one of those looks that needs to be worn with caution. To work this trend into your everyday wardrobe try to wear one piece with large patterns rather a cacophony of styles. If you do decide to mix patterns, as seen on the catwalks, try to make sure the prints contrast but complement each other: pair motifs that differ either in pattern or tone but not in both. 


Socks made a comeback at Sibling SS16.
Photo by Limor Helfgott 

 Socks are back! 
For the last few seasons, we could see the “mankle” everywhere – and it was becoming acceptable wearing formal footwear with no socks.
Plus cropped trousers. Spring/Summer 2016 sees the return of the sock. This could be seen at the Lou Dalton and Christopher Raeburn and even socks and sandals were on the runway at Margaret Howell.


Suit, pattern & colour on Kadu Dantas.
Photo: Scott Wilson 

 For a bolder, fun look, wear a pair of colourful socks. As always, we can’t wait to see how the trends of this season will translate into our everyday wardrobe. The street style looks showed a lot of the trends, mixing up patterns and bright colour along with classic looks such as the stylish British tailored suit as worn by David Gandy and Kadu Dantas. 

We will leave you with one last styling tip -  the SS16 suit has a real individuality and an element of eccentricity and a more casual form instead of being formal and traditional. Add a dash of colour in the choice of tie, cravat or textile broach and choose a subtle checked or striped pattern for the suit itself. Add a dashing sun hat and a pair of retro sunglasses and you have an outfit for every summer occasion. See you next season!

The Art of Glass at Verreum: Designers Sacha Walckhoff and Arik Levy

Sacha Walckhoff, Creative Director at Christian Lacroix, in Milan with his new collection of glasses and vases for Verreum. “I called it Reverso because at the start of a dinner you use the glass and when the coffee arrives you turn it upside down and there is a coffee cup ready for use!" Photograph by Mariangela Curci

Shimmering amid flowers, berries and leaves, Verreum’s glass collection by the world’s top designers includes the clever Reverso by Sacha Walckhoff and Arik Levy’s curvaceous Drops vases reports Jeanne-Marie Cilento. Photographs by Mariangela Curci & Paul McDonnell

PAVEL Weiser, founder and CEO of Verreum, speaks passionately about design and the great tradition of Czech glass manufacturing. Six years ago, the dynamic entrepreneur decided to build on that history and founded a new glass-making company. “The name Verreum was created from two words: verre meaning glass in French and um signifying craftsmanship in Czech,” he says. Weiser explains he wanted to revive glass-making craftsmanship, focusing particularly on silvered glass production, a technique that has been almost lost for more than half a century.



Sacha Walckhoff and Pavel Weiser at the Verreum show in Milan

“We re-invented this forgotten technique, mixing tradition and different technologies to create a new design language. Today, we make vases, glasses, bowls, lamps, candlesticks and furniture pieces. We like to collaborate with both Czech and international designers to create our products using highly skilled craftsmen from glass manufacturing areas in Nový Bor, Northern Bohemia. This is a famous production centre for Czech glass and we want to sustain the Bohemian glass making tradition.”

Arik Levy & the Jupiter night lights at the Milan exhibition

Sacha Walckhoff first met Weiser a year ago during his presentation at the Wallpaper Handmade event in Milan. “We kept in touch and last summer he came back to me as he was building a team of designers for his brand,” Sacha Walckhoff says. “Sebastian Herkner was appointed as the new artistic director and he wanted new ways of expressing the Verreum skill. I was immediately seduced by the idea of working with glass and travelled to Novy Bor in the Czech Republic where I was amazed by the art of blowing glass by the masters working for Verreum. I even tried to blow one piece  ~ what an experience!

“The idea of Reverso was partly inspired by the blown glass going up in the air and then down into the fire or water. It is like a dance with the sounds of the elements as a background track ~ the fire, the water, the steam!" The master glass-makers at Novy Bor create Verreum’s designs by a blowing cane, picking melting glass from the crucible, lifting it up and sprinkling it with water and finally lodging it into an oak cast to blow it into the final shape. “This ballet with pure matter inspired me to design five glasses and three vases for Verreum,” says the designer.

Drops orchid vase, Maly glasses by Sebastian Herkner & Reverso vase

Paris-based designer and artist Arik Levy created the Drops collection of rounded vases made specially for orchids and cacti. Levy says he remembers the fascination he felt when he saw drops of mercury leaking out of a broken thermometer. "I was always fascinated with the quicksilver drops, the amazing surface  reflection as well as the sensation that it is still liquid," he explains.This liquid silvery image was his inspiration when he designed the Drops vase collection. The designer

The soft, rounded forms of Arik Levy's Jupiter night lights

says the orchids and cacti in the vases give life to the pieces and when they are juxtaposed together they create a table sculpture. Arik Levy’s large, tall Jupiter night lights in sapphire blue are inspired by a constellation of stars. The soft, rounded forms follow the shapes of of a candle flame and the silvered glass reflects the lights and colours around them. The large forms of the design allow them to be used both indoors and outdoors.


The delicate hues of the Reverso wine glass & coffee cups

Sacha Walckhoff's Reverso glasses and vases are an elegant, creative idea. While the large, balloon glass at the top is for wine or water they can be turned upside down and you find a silvery expresso cup underneath. “I called it Reverso because on one side of each piece, you have an espresso cup attached to a wine glass or a water glass. So at the beginning of a dinner, you can use your glass and when the coffee arrives you turn your glass upside down and you get a coffee cup ready for use!" The Verreum silvered glass technique gives a thermal capacity to the pieces so Walckhoff incorporated that into his designs too. 

The playful forms of the Reverso vase & glasses

"They are translucent and silver-coated, they are meant to be fun to use in different and surprising ways," he eplains. “I love the idea of having one object with different uses like the three vases I also designed for Verreum. This allows the client to be creative when he or she uses it. The idea of the creative process going on after my intervention ~ it is like forming an invisible net of creative minds.”

Sacha Walckhoff says as a designer, glass has its own special demands. “There are a  lot of challenges working with glass. I know a little about ceramic and porcelain but glass is really something on its own. Beginning to work with glass  through  Verreum on a semi-industrial line was even more challenging as there were a lot of restrictions such as doing only symmetrical shapes, using the grading of colours in one direction and so on. 

Sketches of the Chado teaset designed by Sebastian Herkner



Walckhoff’s collection of vases are meant to be mixed and matched, played with, turned upside down to change into glass lanterns when they are not filled with flowers. “The glasses follow the same principle, and so the champagne flute, once bottom up, becomes a tumbler while the white wine glass turns into a coffee cup when on its head. Also the silvered glass being double makes the possibility of creating shapes even smaller. But then I discovered that you could glue glass together, something that you do not do with ceramics and that helped a lot! But in general, I always love challenges, as it leads you to ideas you might not have explored without those difficulties.”
The Reverso collection is available in four colour

The new Bonbon side tables by Luca Nichetto

combinations: smoked silver and translucent glass, golden khaki and cobalt blue, garnet colored and emerald green and copper-bronze and smoked grey.

Other pieces in the Verreum collection include the hand-blown new Bonbon tables by Italian designer Luca Nichetto that were launched in Milan at the Salone del Mobile in April. Inspired by silver candy wrappers, they have a stylised form composed of geometric shapes in a totem form that can be used as glimmering, sculptural side tables. It seems an extraordinary feat that these beautiful, silvery pieces are all hand-blown in a small studio in the forests of Bohemia. Pavel Weiser has not only made a winning combination of international designers and hand-made skill but he has revived an art that was almost lost for more than half a century.