Saturday, 25 October 2014

10 Question Column: Contemporary Italian Artist Cristiano Petrucci


Cristiano Petrucci looking at one of his latest works part of the Ebanis series at his studio in Rome: "Italy lacks contemporary art. It is hard to find works that talk about the present, and above all, the future." Portrait by Andreas Romagnoli 
Italian contemporary artist Cristiano Petrucci answers Andreas Romagnoli and Jeanne-Marie Cilento’s 10 Questions and sits for his portrait at his laboratory-like studio in the Italian capital

LAST year, Christiano Petrucci decided to stop painting and concentrate entirely on his abstract installations using complex matrixes of plastic balls to express emotions and states of feeling. The works are crowded with these rotund objects in different formations lit from behind, creating an intense sensation of mass communication. His artworks are like giant motherboards seemingly both being plugged into a network yet suggesting a sense of alienation with the cool green glow.

Some of the round, white ping pong balls have slanting, little “ears” that stick out making them seem like both an electronic creature and a plug for an electric socket. Petrucci is interested in exploring the way we communicate using social networks and new technology and his works convey a sense of the entwined and etheric communication of today's mass media. 

“I like to interact with an art work which has a dialogue with the spectator in a direct way using new technology,” he says. Petrucci works in a white studio in Rome that he has designed like a laboratory to create his precise, clinical works: “The area where I work I purposely painted in white. I think that a studio should be antiseptic and neutral, a place that can be compared to a scientific laboratory.”  

The artist's new works subtle diffused light emanates amidst the clustered balls creating a pallid, crowded universe that seems to speak of our lives engulfed by digital communication. 

Cristiano Petrucci’s work has been exhibited in both solo and group exhibitions in Italy and Europe.

1. Where did you grow up and does this place inspire your creative work?
I was born in Rome, but I don’t think it is my source for creative research, rather I think that my style of life has affected me more.

2. Why did you choose art as your creative métier?
I did not choose anything. I don’t want to define exactly my art. I just think I can mould materials.

3. What aspect of painting and drawing gives you the most happiness?
In an art work I look for the hidden aspects that led the artist to make experimental choices. I am interested in the creative processes and their complex interactions. I don’t pay attention to technique but rather I notice the content of a work.  

4. What do you find the most challenging part of your work?
I consider beauty, harmonious geometry and the purity of forms challenging. Also the “present” is challenging to me.

5. Can you describe the experience, person or training that has had the greatest impact on your artistic career?
My artistic career follows the evolutional changes of society. Technology, for example, and its many features which  have changed our daily habits, I believe has had a great impact on my creative work.

6. Describe your studio and whether you have a set schedule of working everyday?
My studio is divided between the liveable area, which I built myself using recycled materials to create a 1960s style. The area where I work I purposely painted in white. I think that a studio should be antiseptic and neutral, a place that can be compared to a scientific laboratory. I don’t have particular schedule to follow for my work.

7. Do you find your creative process is more rational or instinctive?
I find it is both. For producing my work there are ceratin cases when it is more rational while in others it is the fruit of instinct and action.

8. How would you describe working as a contemporary artist today in Italy?
Italy lacks contemporary art. It is hard to find works that talk about the present, and above all, the future. My creative research is projected towards the future and what we will discover. 

I like to interact with an art work which has a dialogue with the spectator in a direct way also using new technology: rather than regretting the past which in our country still seems to effect new generations of artists.

9. Is there a particular town or place in the world you find inspiring?
There is no place in particular, I am more interested in the way a population thinks ~ the cerebral processes we use in our lives.

10. In our digital age, what does art give us?
The digital age has opened many higher levels of knowledge which before did not exist.


The video below shows Cristiano Petrucci working on his new piece at his studio in Rome

Artist Cristiano Petrucci with his new work Ebanis at his studio in Rome. Photograph by Andreas Romagnoli


Cristiano Petrucci's latest works part of the Ebanis series he created this year.


Ebanis 2724, mixed media with ping-pong balls, 2014, 50x35cm 




Ebanis 1327,  2014. Mixed media with ping balls: 140x96x20cm.


Ebanis 921 2014. Mixed media with ping pong balls:140x96x20cm.



Ebanis 2494,  2014. Mixed media with ping pong balls: 53x38x60cm.



Ebanis 1748, 2014. Mixed media with ping balls, 40x96x20cm.



Ebanis 2026, 2014. Mixed media with ping pong balls: 65x96x20cm 


Ebanis 456, 2014. Mixed media with ping pong balls:140x96x20cm.

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Wednesday, 22 October 2014

NYC Dance Project: Photographers Ken Browar and Deborah Ory

Ashley Ellis, Principal Dancer at the Boston Ballet shot by photographers Deborah Ory and Ken Browar at their studio in New York City.


American photographers Deborah Ory and Ken Browar created the NYC Dance Project to shoot contemporary and classical dancers in New York, capturing their dynamism and beauty, Antonio Visconti reports

DEBORAH Ory started her career as a modern dancer while Ken Browar worked as a fashion photographer. Today, working together they are able to use each of their different strengths to create startling portraits of New York's top dancers. The dance project grew from their shared love of the human body in motion. 

“It is a celebration of dancers’ bodies," says Ken Browar. "Dancers must simultaneously be artists and athletes, and we try to highlight both qualities of our subjects in the photographs.” Ory and Browar describe their collaboration as one of  "give and take" between both them and their subjects.  

“We want to showcase and celebrate the dancers as individuals so that our project becomes a diverse portrait of New York's dance community,’’ says Browar. “Even in photographs where the dancers wear costumes, we look for the human being within the character they are playing.”

They prepare each shoot as though it is a dance production, working like choreographers and designing the sets, lighting, mood and movement to reflect the particular qualities of each dancer. “Our favorite moments are the simple ones: the breath the dancer takes after a jump, the quiet introverted moments often only seen backstage, or the second, mid-motion, when the dancer feels free,’’ says Deborah Ory.

Today, Browar and Ory live in Greenpoint, Brooklyn with two teenage daughters who are studying to be ballerinas. Browar’s passion for dance began when he lived in Paris and photographed dancers from the Paris Opera Ballet. His fashion photography has appeared in VogueElleMarie Claire and other European fashion magazines.

Ory began studying dance as a child and  made it her profession until she was injured and began her photography career, shooting the rehearsals she could not participate in. After moving to New York City, she worked as a photo editor at magazines such as House & Garden and Mirabella and began shooting editorial work for international design publications.
Click on photographs for full-screen slideshow
Marcelo Gomes, Principal Dancer at the American Ballet Theatre. “Our work is a celebration of dancers’ bodies," says Ken Browar. "Dancers must simultaneously be artists and athletes, and we try to highlight both qualities of our subjects in the photographs.” 


Ashley Ellis, Principal Dancer from the Boston Ballet making a graceful pose in New York. “Our favorite moments are the simple ones: the breath the dancer takes after a jump, the quiet introverted moments often only seen backstage, or the second, mid-motion, when the dancer feels free,’’ says Deborah Ory


The sheer physicality of dance ~ Alexandre Hammoudi, Soloist at American Ballet Theatre. They prepare each shoot as though it is a dance production, working like choreographers and designing the sets, lighting, mood and movement to reflect the particular qualities of each dancer. 


“Even in photographs where the dancers wear costumes, we look for the human being within the character they are playing,” says Ken Browar. Dancer Gabrielle Salvatto, currently shooting the film Flesh & Bone. Photographed in New York at Browar and Ory's studio.


The expressive Daniil Simpkin, Principal Dancer at the American Ballet Theatre.


Stretching ~ Daniil Simpkin of the American Ballet Theatre. 


Anthony Javier Savoy of the Dance Theatre of Harlem shows his elegance and strength.


Perfect alignment ~ Anthony Javier Savoy and Gabrielle Salvatto, dancers from the Dance Theatre of Harlem 


Expressive contemporary dance ~ Anthony Javier Savoy and Gabrielle Salvatto from the Dance Theatre of Harlem


Taking a flying leap ~ Anthony Javier Savoy of the Dance Theatre of Harlem.


Dancer Gabrielle Salvatto, currently shooting the film Flesh & Bone. Photographed in New York at Browar and Ory's NY studio.


Hee Seo is a principal dancer with American Ballet Theatre. Born in Seoul, Seo is the first South Korean principal with the ABT as well as being one of the youngest dancers in the company to hold this title.

All suited up and ready to dance ~ Daniil Simkin of the American Ballet Theatre.

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Friday, 10 October 2014

Focus on New Fashion: Le Photographe by Christopher Beales

Models backstage at the Le Photographe collection, designed by Christopher Beales and held at Fashion Scout’s Freemasons Hall in London. It was a surprising mix of sleek couture and ready to wear pieces. Photograph by Mike Rolls
During fashion week in London, Milan & Paris there are also special collections of new and upcoming designers and labels. Our correspondent Limor Helfgott with photographer Mike Rolls visited the Fashion Scout shows in London and met designer Christopher Beales, the creative mind behind the new brand Le Photographe

EXCITING new labels and designers showcase their work at the innovative off-schedule catwalks taking place all over London during fashion week. Celebrating its seventh year, Fashion Scout is the United Kingdom’s largest event for presenting emerging and innovative new talents and helping to build a new generation in the fashion industry. 

Designers such as Peter Pilotto, David Koma, Eudon Choi and Fyodor Golan all showcased their designs at Fashion Scout and are now regular names in the on-schedule shows at Somerset house.

Fashion Scout has become renowned for finding and promoting the most creative design talents and creating an international showcase for designers from all over the globe. It is always exciting to see new and creative talents. Many of the designers’ catwalks showed a kind of extravagant creativity ~ from fuzzy fur coats to unfinished cuffs. But one of the shows stood out for its sophistication and style. 

The Le Photographe collection, designed by Christopher Beales and held at Fashion Scout’s Freemasons Hall, was a surprising mix of sleek couture and ready to wear pieces. The designs were glamorous but accessible, alternating between contemporary and traditional tailoring.

Christopher Beales has a stellar background including working as a senior tailor for womenswear at Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford. In 2012, he also travelled to Mumbai to establish a workshop at a top embroidery and manufacturing house.

We caught up with the designer right after his show in London to hear his thoughts and inspirations behind his Garden of Temptation collection. Christopher Beales says he has been thinking about starting a new brand for a long time. 

“Then there comes a moment when you have a chance to present your work and you go for it,” says the designer. “As this is the first season of working together as a team we wanted to explore our ideas of shapes, embroidery and textiles to create our own signature.”

Beales said he was very happy with the results after seeing the show: “Watching the girls walk out on to the catwalk was very emotional. It’s actually seeing what you’ve been doing for a long time become real. You are never quite sure how it will look until it’s done ~ and when it all comes to life it is a great feeling of achievement.” 

Choosing the models was also a very important part in presenting the collection: “We wanted girls that could demonstrate elegance, confidence and power. It wasn’t only the fact that they were my designs, it was the way it was presented that made it all look fantastic and it felt like something powerful was happening out there”.

Beales’ Garden of Temptation collection was clearly dedicated to emphasising the feminine form and showed looks that combined a sense of strength with a more romantic elegance: floral draped waterfall skirts and flowing shapes, pencil skirts and tailored jackets. The collection was accented by embroidery that gave a feel of classic couture while the use of woven cotton gave a wearable and modern touch. 

The color palette included touches of red, fuchsia and lemon yellow on a base of black and white. The strong floral influence gave a summery feeling all throughout the collection. To complete the look, the models’ hats were a very important accessory. The graphic eye make-up and natural lips added to the strong yet feminine feel.

Overall it was a beautifully-tailored and flamboyantly creative collection for Le Photographe, making Christpher Beales one of the most exciting designers to watch in upcoming seasons.

Click on photographs for full-screen slideshow

Designer Christopher Beales has a stellar background including working as a senior tailor for womenswear at Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford. Photograph by Mike Rolls






The Garden of Temptation collection was glamorous but accessible, alternating between contemporary and traditional tailoring. Photograph by Mike Rolls 




The collection highlighted the feminine form and showed looks that combined a sense of strength with a more romantic elegance: floral draped waterfall skirts and flowing shapes, pencil skirts and tailored jackets. Photograph by Mike Rolls



The strong floral influence gave a summery feeling all throughout the collection. To complete the look, the models’ hats were a very important accessory. Photograph by Mike Rolls

Choosing the models was also a very important part in presenting the collection: “We wanted girls that could demonstrate elegance, confidence and power,'' says designer Christopher Beales. Photograph by Mike Rolls


The collection was accented by embroidery that gave a feel of classic couture while the use of woven cotton gave a wearable and modern touch. Photograph by Mike Rolls


 “As this is the first season of working together as a team we wanted to explore our ideas of shapes, embroidery and textiles to create our own signature," says Christopher Beales. Photograph by Mike Rolls


The color palette included lemon yellow on a base of black and white. Photograph by Mike Rolls


The graphic eye make-up and natural lips added to the strong yet feminine feel. Photograph by Mike Rolls


 In 2012, Christopher Beales travelled to Mumbai to establish a workshop at a top embroidery and manufacturing house. Photograph by Mike Rolls


Overall it was a beautifully-tailored and flamboyantly creative collection for Le Photographe, making Christpher Beales one of the most exciting designers to watch in upcoming seasons. Photograph by Mike Rolls


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Thursday, 2 October 2014

Fashion Trends Spring/Summer 2015: What We'll Be Wearing

With simple yet sophisticated light-weight silk shirt dresses featuring paint splatters, Jasper Conran brings an artistic vibe to his collection, inspired by his favourite artists' work: Jackson Pollock's splotches of colour, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and Pierre Soulages’ brushstrokes. Photograph by Mike Rolls
As the Spring/Summer 2015 season of fashion comes to a close we show the top trends influencing what we'll be wearing in the coming months. London Fashion Week was the stand-out for originality and design direction among the shows in New York, Milan and Paris. Our fashion correspondent Limor Helfgott with photographer Mike Rolls make a special report on all of the best looks direct from the catwalk to street style

LONDON is always a top trend-setter, with collections from the world’s leading designers and daring street styles. With all the looks and trends on offer what should we expect to see this upcoming spring/summer? The trends for 2015 are lots of leather, long slouchy skirts, clashing colors and minimalist whites. There were some surprising directions too like flats on the runways and the return of flares.

Wearable is the New black
The first thing that comes to mind when looking at the beautiful, body conscious clothes on the Jasper Conran catwalk is how wearable and easy to move in they are. Mixing smart tailoring with a casual fit, Conran’s collection this season had a much looser fit - described by the designer as “sporty, summery and fresh”. Loafers, which also reappeared on the runway, certainly added to the laid back style.

Using fabrics such as crisp cotton, organza and silk, the clothes  are indeed ideal for summer. This season, he introduced his signature contemporary British style of straight lines and below the knee dresses and skirts. The use of color blocks and simple shapes with hints of the 1960’s reoccurs, as seen in his previous collection.

The soundtrack of Lana Del Rey and Julia Holter created the perfect soft ambiance for the slouchy tees, relaxed shirts and maxi dresses. With simple yet sophisticated light-weight silk shirt dresses featuring paint splatters, this season Conran brings a more artistic vibe to his collection finding his inspiration from some of his favourite artists.

We can see familiar patterns reminiscent of Jackson Pollock’s paintings, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and even Pierre Soulages’ brushstrokes. All of these combined with the ease of American sportswear creates an accessible and timeless line.

Alongside a dominate theme of black and white, Conran added to this season’s geometric constructions with a palette of toned down hues such as aubergine, pigment blue and navy, warmed up by coffee browns and greens, adding a natural and earthy feel to the collection.
Jasper Conran SS15: White and bitter chocolate silk chiffon layered floor length dress. Conran added to this season’s geometric constructions with a palette of toned down hues such as aubergine, pigment blue and navy, warmed up by coffee browns and greens. Photograph by Mike Rolls



Jasper Conran SS15: Mixed palette silk crepe floor length dress. We can see familiar patterns reminiscent of Jackson Pollock’s paintings, Yves Klein’s iconic blue and even Pierre Soulages’ brushstrokes. All of these combined with the ease of American sportswear creates an accessible and timeless line. Photograph by Mike Rolls

Jasper Conran SS15: Collage print mixed palette tennis dress. Using fabrics such as crisp cotton, organza and silk, the clothes  are indeed ideal for summer. This season, Conran introduced his signature contemporary British style of straight lines and below the knee dresses and skirts.  Photograph by Mike Rolls


Jasper Conran SS15: Pigment blue coated cotton harrington, white cotton slim leg trouser. Mixing smart tailoring with a casual fit, Conran’s collection this season had a much looser fit - described by the designer as “sporty, summery and fresh”. Loafers, which also reappeared on the runway, certainly added to the laid back style. Photograph by Mike Rolls



Jasper Conran SS15: Navy Blue cotton hooded jacket, navy blue cotton shirt dress with elasticated hem and waist. The first thing that comes to mind when looking at the clothes on the Jasper Conran catwalk is how wearable and easy to move in they are. Photograph by Mike Rolls

Leather Rules
Leather dominated the catwalk at J.W Anderson’s show where large leather sunhats stole the show. Jonathan William Anderson ~ who made his debut during Paris fashion week as Creative Director of Loewe, the luxury leather brand ~ made beautiful use of his new resources by creating a very feminine collection.

There were asymmetrical, modern designs: softly ruched crop tops and matching skirts, butter-soft leather dresses, accessorized with long sleeved gloves and thick belts with nautical buttons ~ a strong theme for the whole collection.

With an audience including Anna Wintour and Olivia Palermo, Anderson presented a collection with his signature minimalistic touch describing it as “surrealist workwear and psychedelic, suspended architecture”. The palette was neutral, monochrome with an occasional flash of brightness. There was also a masculine meets feminine vibe with long white shirts juxtaposed against fitted dresses. Garments were paired with pointed loafers with chunky heels in shiny black, or lace-up deck shoe pumps in beige and pale blue.

Other than leather being the key fabric in this collection – another trend alert to take from this collection – flares are back!

J.W Anderson SS15: Leather dominated the catwalk with large leather sun hats . Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC 


J.W Anderson SS15: Asymmetrical, modern designs: softly ruched crop tops and matching skirts, butter-soft looking leather dresses, accessorized with long sleeved gloves and thick belts with nautical buttons. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC



It's Cool to Clash
Roksanda’s SS15 collection was one of the most colorful, bold and vibrant of those seen this season and another one that was inspired by artists. For example, the designer referenced the American artist Julia Dault in her use of perspex embellishments.

Roksanda resounded the same message which also came from the New York runways: a continued love affair with orange. Her collection was definitely a standout of bright, clashing pastels which ruled the runways.

Colours like royal blue with a tint of neon, rose, mint and lilac dominated the catwalk, anchoring the softness of color with square tailoring and architectural Miro-like forms alongside loosely draped silhouettes which are another one of the key trends this season.

In the shoe department – there was not a wedge in sight! One of the surprises this season were the low heels seen on most of the catwalks – shoes were either matching flat sandals or low, geometric heels. Designed in collaboration with British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, they added a certain edge, something more street to the elegant collection.

Roksanda SS15: One of the most colorful, bold and vibrant collections of this season and another one was inspired by artists. For example, the designer referenced the American artist Julia Dault in her use of perspex embellishments. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC

Roksanda SS15: The collection resounded the same message which also came from the New York runways: a continued love affair with orange. Her collection was definitely a standout of bright, clashing pastels which ruled the runways. Photograph by Kensington Leverne BFC


Geometric, Stripes, Prints and Flower Power
Geometric patterning is a favorite with designers and we could see references to it in many of the SS15 collections: Matthew Williamson’s 1970’s, flower-inspired prints, Peter Pilotto’s bold, signature designs and Holly Fulton’s embellished dresses and midi-skirts ~ another standout trend this season.

But stripes were also stars and they dominated the Preen collection. With an early morning show that only admired designers can get away with, the design duo injected a caffeine-boost of excitement to their 9am catwalk.

There was a sense of overload to this season’s collection: stripes met digital florals with multi-coloured fringes and lace ~ a stong hit of vibrancy and energy.

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen, known for their clever cutting and experimental use of prints, were inspired by Massai cricket warriors from the plains of Kenya. A very different theme than last season’s Star Wars homage. It was Tribal meets sporty lux: tribal prints alongside English cricket knits matched with a slick, shiny and bold hairstyle to complete the look.

With asymmetric hemlines and wrap around skirts paired with silk halter neck tops or body skimming dresses decorated with traditional beading, they are looks we didn’t even know we wanted ~ but we do! The cool prints were made even more fashionable with the hand-beaded fringes.

The colours felt fresh - bold blocks of it with white and black teamed with red. But the real power of the collection was the use of tonal combinations plus mixing stripes and prints in a successful and very wearable way.

Holly Fulton SS15: The embellished dresses and printed midi-skirts were another standout trend this season. Photograph by Daniel Sims BFC 


Peter Pilotto SS15: Bold, signature prints of abstract leaves and flowers on new materials. Photograph by Daniel Sims BFC

Preen SS15: The colours felt fresh - bold blocks of it with white and black teamed together. But the real power of the collection was the use of tonal combinations plus mixing stripes and prints, mixing them together in a very flattering way. Photograph by Christopher James BFC


Preen SS15: A very different theme than last season’s Star Wars homage. It was Tribal meets sporty lux: tribal prints alongside English cricket knits matched with a slick, shiny and bold hairstyle to complete the look. Photograph by Christopher James BFC


Preen SS15: Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, known for their clever cutting and experimental use of prints were inspired by Massai cricket warriors from the plains of Kenya. Photograph by Christopher James BFC


Mathew Williamson SS15: Backstage at the show ~1970’s inspired  prints and mirrored glasses. Photograph by Sam Wilson BFC













The Return of the Midi-Skirt
Looking at collections such as Erdem, Temperly and Roksanda along with those seen at Milan and Paris, we are definitely going to invest in a midi-length full skirt to keep our SS2015 wardrobe up to date!

Confused by all the trends? Don’t be! From what we have seen on the catwalks there is one thing that stood out ~ comfort is no longer the enemy of style!  Whether its minimalist white, clashing colors, bold leather or nude chic, the real trend this season was all about being wearable.

The oversized, relaxed yet feminine silhouettes of slouchy skirts and sporty chic  combined with flats replacing high heels were seen everywhere on the London, Milan and Paris catwalks. And not only on the runways but also among front-row VIP’s. We are curious to see if this trend will be with us next season, but we think it is most unlikely we’ll see Vogue's Anna Wintour wearing Nike any time soon….

Street Style London Fashion Week SS15
As always, street style is not about trends, but more about being noticed. Standing on the cobblestone streets around Somerset House, LFW headquarters, were fashionistas wearing cutting-edge looks from fur hats and Darth Vader sweaters to a metallic ensemble finished off with a cool monkey bag. 

Hipster model Chris John Millington wore his signature beard and minimalist black and white coat and shirt and made a low-key contrast to the girls wearing facial jewellery and sports jackets and the long, colourful draping of a green-fringed fashion photographer.
Snapped outside Somerset House, a photographer wearing a flowing, print tunic with red pantsuit and green-dyed short fringe. Photograph by Limor Helfgott 







 Darth Vader sweater, fur hat and black moccasins made a quirky statement at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015. Photograph by Limor Helfgott

Spotted at Somerset house in London (LFW headquarters), the always stylish Scottish model Chris John Millington wearing his signature beard and minimalist black and white. Photograph by Limor Helfgott
Striking a pose at Somerset House : a monkey backpack finished of an individual look in a symphony of metallic colours and textures. Photograph by Mike Rolls

Jewelled face decoration and bright-red lipstick were mixed with an Adidas sports jacket to create this fashionista's street look in London. Photograph by Mike Rolls


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