Hermès Finds a New Rhythm Beneath the California Sky in Los Angeles

Karen Olsen strikes a pose on the specially built Hermes pavilion for the Autumn/Winter 2026 second chapter by artistic director Nadège Vanhée. Photograph (above) and cover picture by Max Farago.

As the sun slipped behind the hills of Bel Air, Hermès transformed a secluded Los Angeles hillside into a stage for a captivating fashion moment. For the latest chapter of its Autumn/Winter 2026 womenswear collection, artistic director Nadège Vanhée looked beyond the house's equestrian roots, embracing the grace of dance, the glow of California light and a new vision of luxury, reports Antonio Visconti

The architectural installation created 

for the Hermes show at dusk in LA.

HIGH above Los Angeles, where the city dissolves into winding hills, Hermès unveiled a collection that felt less like a fashion presentation and more like a meditation on movement, light and freedom. 

For the French house's latest travelling chapter of its Autumn/Winter 2026 womenswear collection, artistic director Nadège Vanhée turned her gaze westward, drawing inspiration from the unique atmosphere of Southern California and the poetry of a body in motion.

Guests arrived at a purpose-built pavilion perched looking across Bel Air, a striking architectural installation glowing in shades of soft gold as dusk settled across the landscape. The setting captured the essence of the collection itself: expansive, optimistic and suspended somewhere between reality and dream.

While Hermès is often celebrated for its mastery of leather craftsmanship and equestrian heritage, this season Vanhée explored a different narrative. Dance became the collection's guiding spirit, influencing silhouettes that moved with remarkable fluidity. The designer imagined a woman stepping beyond the studio, carrying the elegance and discipline of performance into everyday life.

Artistic director Nadège Vanhée turned her gaze westward, drawing inspiration from the unique atmosphere of Southern California and the poetry of a body in motion

The designer embraced the luminous hues of 

California with rich reds and warm yellows. 

The result was a collection that balanced structure with ease. Sculptural dresses referenced the tension and artistry found in ballet costumes, while flowing skirts and draped garments seemed to float around the body. Fabrics shifted and responded to movement, creating an almost cinematic effect as models navigated the curving runway.

Colour played an equally important role. Rather than the muted palettes often associated with European winters, Vanhée embraced the luminous tones of California. Vivid reds, sunny yellows and sea-hued blues appeared throughout the collection, reflecting the distinctive quality of Los Angeles light. This daylight vibrancy was paired with deep blacks and midnight shades that evoked the city's transformation after sunset.

Leather, naturally, remained central to the Hermès identity. Supple jackets, refined outerwear and impeccably crafted separates anchored the collection, offering a sense of strength beneath the softness. Yet even these pieces felt lighter than previous seasons, revealing a designer increasingly interested in fluidity rather than rigidity.

Sculptural dresses referenced the tension and artistry found in ballet costumes, while flowing skirts and draped garments seemed to float around the body.

Miley Cyrus wore a sleek, black

leather mini-dress to the show. 

The front row reflected the global reach of the house, bringing together clients, artists and a select group of celebrities, including Miley Cyrus, Kerry Washington and Keke Palmer. Their presence underscored Hermès' growing connection to Hollywood while maintaining its singular identity that has mostly eschewed celebrity ambassadors, unlike many other storied French fashion houses. 

What made the evening particularly compelling, however, was not the star spectacle but the confidence of the clothes themselves. Vanhée appears to be entering a new creative phase, one that broadens the visual language of Hermès while remaining faithful to its traditions of craftsmanship and refinement.

The collection also hinted at what lies ahead. As anticipation builds around Hermès' upcoming couture collection, this show suggested a designer increasingly comfortable exploring volume, drape and emotion on a grander scale.

Against the backdrop of a fading Californian sunset, Hermès offered a vision of contemporary luxury that felt remarkably fresh: sophisticated yet effortless, disciplined yet free, grounded in heritage while looking toward new horizons.

See highlights from the Hermes Autumn/Winter 2026 collection in Los Angeles