DESIGN and ART MAGAZINE: Paris Fashion Week: The Art of the Unexpected Issey Miyake's Sculptural Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Collection

The new collection of Issey Miyake presented during Paris Fashion Week. Photograph and masthead cover by Andrea Heinsohn for DAM

The Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection, presented at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris, blurred the boundaries between fashion and art, embodying the storied Japanese label's exploration of the nature of clothing. Under the creative direction of Satoshi Kondo, the show, titled [N]either [N]or, explored the aesthetics of ambiguity, challenging preconceived notions of form, function, and wearability, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Andrea Heinsohn and Elli Ioannou

Performance art and

fashion at Issey Miyake

OPENING the new Issey Miyake show at Paris Fashion Week was a performance piece inspired by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm’s One Minute Sculptures. The models adjusted the garments in unusual ways, highlighting their transformative potential.

A shopping bag became a dress, knitwear was wrapped and knotted to create shifting silhouettes, and oversized outerwear subverted expectations of proportion and volume. This performative element set the stage for a collection that sought to redefine how we interact with clothing.

At the heart of the collection was the concept of garments that exist between states: neither purely functional nor purely decorative, nor entirely structured nor entirely fluid.

The use of unexpected fabric manipulations reinforced this philosophy. Open-weave knits expanded and enveloped the body, puffer tops were layered with undersized T-shirts to exaggerate form, and oversized blazers were skewed asymmetrically to disrupt conventional tailoring.

Pockets played a significant role in the collection, extending beyond their traditional function. Dresses featured deep pockets large enough to accommodate an entire arm, while horizontal placements created a sense of restriction or self-imposed restraint. The interplay of constraint and freedom mirrored the broader theme of ambiguity, questioning the limitations often placed on clothing design.

At the heart of the collection was the concept of garments that exist between states: neither purely functional nor purely decorative, entirely structured or entirely fluid

Brilliant monochromatic

colours with sculptural

draping were highlights

Color and texture further emphasized the collection's conceptual depth. Vibrant hues punctuated monochromatic ensembles, while pleated fabrics, signature to the Miyake house, took on new dimensions through layering and sculptural draping.

Some garments appeared weightless, with delicate folds and twists creating the illusion of movement even in stillness. Others embraced heft and structure, evoking the architectural precision of Wurm’s sculptural works.

Beyond aesthetics, the collection made subtle references to societal themes. The repurposing of shopping bags as garments could be interpreted as a commentary on consumer culture, while the subversion of familiar wardrobe staples suggested a world where clothing need not adhere to rigid definitions.

Issey Miyake's menswear and womenswear collections for Autumn/Winter 2025 have both embraced immersive experiences that extend beyond traditional runway presentations.

Earlier in the season, the Fly with IM Men exhibition at the Réfectoire des Cordeliers invited audiences to reconsider the intersection of clothing and space. Similarly, the womenswear presentation encouraged a dialogue between fashion and art, reinforcing the notion that garments are not static objects but evolving forms of expression.

As Satoshi Kondo took his final bow to a standing ovation, it was clear that his vision for Issey Miyake remains deeply rooted in innovation and experimentation. By embracing ambiguity and challenging convention, this collection offered a compelling glimpse into the future of fashion where boundaries dissolve, and creativity reigns.

Scroll down to see more highlights from the Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection in Paris