|Jazz music inspired Braganza’s improvisational approach to designing his new collection: “I never liked jazz when I was growing up,” he said backstage. “But now, the fact that it’s so structured and yet so chaotic really fascinates me.”|
This spring/summer 2016 season, the British Fashion Council has moved London Fashion Week from its traditional home at Somerset House to the more edgy and urban surroundings of Brewer Street in Soho. One of the stand-out shows at the new venue was Jean-Pierre Braganza's vivid and fluid collection, Jeanne-Marie Cilento reports
|Brilliant, painterly colours for SS16|
The music, loud and drumming, resounded in the white, brightly lit space designed by David Collins. Willowy pale models came out on to the catwalk in striking silhouettes, mixing black and white with brilliant dashes of colour on high-waisted trousers, trench-coats, and jumpsuits with prints inspired by the Bauhaus.
|Long, sinous evening dresses in deep blue|
Breaking away from last season’s monochromes, Braganza did venture out with a more vibrant and artistic colour palette. Although born in London, Braganza was raised in Canada but returned to study and graduate from Central Saint Martins. His work with Roland Mouret before setting up his own label, inspires his beautifully cut long dresses.
|A Bauhaus aesthetic for the prints|
The white and black jackets and trousers that opened the show in cool monochrome tones gradually became more and more brilliantly hued creating a crescendo of pattern and colour by the end ~ but still within a disciplined palette of red, white and dark blues. When the designer came out to take his bow, he appeared with a closely shaven crew cut and a dark minimalist ensemble ~ much less exhuberant than his new collection.