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The interplay between fabric and movement is a recurring theme in Issey Miyake's work, as in the new show in Paris. Photograph and masthead picture by Anna Nguyen |
In the storied hall of the former Franciscan convent Réfectoire des Cordeliers in Paris, a space imbued with centuries of history, Issey Miyake’s IM Men debuted its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection. As the models navigated a stark white runway flanked by futuristic robotic sculptures, the show unfolded as a celebration of the late designer’s enduring vision. Marrying traditional Japanese craftsmanship with avant-garde innovation, the collection explored the transformative relationship between cloth and body, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Elli Ioannou, Anna Nguyen and Jay Zoo
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Tokujin Yoshioka robots that rotated black panels in a synchronized dance at the Paris runway show. |
The show was a masterful exploration of the relationship between fabric, form, and the human body. Helmed by the new design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the collection paid homage to the brand’s late founder while propelling the label into new, uncharted territory.
The venue itself, a 16th-century former monastery, set the tone for the collection’s narrative of transformation. Against this backdrop, models walked between two monumental robotic structures, designed by artist Tokujin Yoshioka. The robots rotated black panels in a synchronized dance, mimicking the fluidity and dynamism of the garments on display. This integration of technology and artistry underscored the brand’s commitment to innovation while reflecting Miyake’s enduring philosophy: the endless possibilities of a single piece of cloth.
Helmed by the new design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the collection was a masterful exploration of fabric, form, and the human body
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Intricate folds and voluminous draping were key motifs of the AW25 collection designed by three new creative directors. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
These pieces, constructed with intricate folds and voluminous draping, included capes while long swathes of fabric formed sweeping coats. The new design trio’s expertise in pattern cutting allowed them to create dramatic silhouettes with designs that could easily be worn to a (minimalist) kitchen or garden party.
As the show progressed, the collection transitioned to more contemporary, functional designs. Sophisticated yet simple jerkins in treated cotton, suede baseball jackets, and unadorned sweatpants exemplified the versatility of the line.
The use of innovative materials, such as plant-based nylon fiber and recycled polyester, showcased the brand’s commitment to sustainability. These fabrics were not only environmentally conscious but also offered a tactile richness that elevated the garments beyond mere utility.
The collection’s Fly line featured garments with selvage
details that allowed for multiple configurations. Coats could be worn upside
down or sideways, depending on how the buttons were arranged, emphasizing
modularity and adaptability. Similarly, the Wall series introduced outerwear
with transformative hoods and inside-out design elements, blending practicality
with avant-garde aesthetics.
The use of innovative materials, such as plant-based nylon fiber and recycled polyester, showed the brand’s commitment to sustainability
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The fabric squares floated like kites, a metaphor for freedom and fluidity. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
As the models ran around the runway, these squares floated like kites, creating a visual metaphor for freedom and fluidity. This evocative conclusion was a nod to Miyake’s 1977 Fly with Issey Miyake show, where fabric was similarly celebrated as a medium of limitless creativity.
The IM Men label, which debuted in 2021, represents a new chapter for the Issey Miyake brand. By replacing the Homme Plissé line on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, IM Men signals a shift towards a more experimental, technology-driven approach.
The design team’s decision to revisit foundational elements of Miyake’s work while incorporating modern innovations demonstrates respect for the brand’s heritage. The result is a collection that feels both rooted in tradition and boldly forward-looking.
One of the standout aspects of the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection was its ability to straddle the line between art and functionality. The garments, while undeniably sculptural, remained wearable. This balance was particularly evident in the use of Ultrasuede and artificial sheepskin, materials that added textural depth without compromising comfort. The collection’s headwear, including scarf-beanie hybrids and bucket hats with extended ear flaps, further illustrated the brand’s ability to merge utility with whimsy.
The IM Men label, which debuted in 2021, represents a new chapter and the design team revisited foundational elements adding modern innovations
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Splashes of brilliant colour enlivened the monochrome parts of the new collection. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
Throughout the show, the interplay between fabric and movement was a recurring theme. The Flat Drape segment featured garments that seemed to come alive with each step, the shirts, coats, and trousers rippling like waves.
This emphasis on movement highlighted the collection’s kinship with dance, a motif that has long been central to Miyake’s work. By incorporating elements of performance art, the show transformed the runway into a stage for storytelling, where each piece of clothing became a character in its own right.
The Autumn/Winter 2025 collection marks a significant milestone for IM Men. Under the guidance of Kawahara, Itakura, and Kobayashi, the label has emerged as a dynamic force within the Issey Miyake universe. By blending the brand’s storied past with contemporary innovation, the design trio has created a collection that is as intellectually stimulating as it is visually striking.
This emphasis on movement highlighted the collection’s kinship with dance, a motif that has long been central to Miyake’s work
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The three new artistic directors of Issey Miyake's IM Men collection: Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara Nobutaka Kobayashi at their exhibition in Paris. Photograph: Jay Zoo |
The designers say that IM Men is still based on Issey Miyake's original idea of "a piece of cloth," but they aim to redefine the concept through shape and construction, combining engineering and design.
Back in Paris, as the final models sprinted off the runway, their capes billowing behind them, the audience was left with a sense of exhilaration. This was more than a fashion show; it was a celebration of creativity, craftsmanship, and the enduring legacy of Miyake himself.
With IM Men, the brand has not only honored its founder’s vision but also charted a course for its future, one where tradition and innovation coexist in harmony.
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |
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Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou |