Saturday, 25 January 2025

Paris Fashion Week: Dynamic Forms and Dancing Robots at Issey Miyake’s Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Menswear Collection

The interplay between fabric and movement is a recurring theme in Issey Miyake's work, as in the new show in Paris. Photograph and masthead picture by Anna Nguyen

In the storied hall of the former Franciscan convent Réfectoire des Cordeliers in Paris, a space imbued with centuries of history, Issey Miyake’s IM Men debuted its Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear collection. As the models navigated a stark white runway flanked by futuristic robotic sculptures, the show unfolded as a celebration of the late designer’s enduring vision. Marrying traditional Japanese craftsmanship with avant-garde innovation, the collection explored the transformative relationship between cloth and body, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photography by Elli IoannouAnna Nguyen and Jay Zoo

Tokujin Yoshioka robots that rotated black panels
in a synchronized dance at the Paris runway show.
THE first Parisian showcase for the label’s newly defined menswear line was a bold statement: IM Men is not just a tribute to Issey Miyake’s legacy; it is the next chapter of his evolving philosophy. The presentation of the new collection married futuristic design with tradition. 

The show was a masterful exploration of the relationship between fabric, form, and the human body. Helmed by the new design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the collection paid homage to the brand’s late founder while propelling the label into new, uncharted territory. 

The venue itself, a 16th-century former monastery, set the tone for the collection’s narrative of transformation. Against this backdrop, models walked between two monumental robotic structures, designed by artist Tokujin Yoshioka. The robots rotated black panels in a synchronized dance, mimicking the fluidity and dynamism of the garments on display. This integration of technology and artistry underscored the brand’s commitment to innovation while reflecting Miyake’s enduring philosophy: the endless possibilities of a single piece of cloth.

Helmed by the new design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the collection was a masterful exploration of fabric, form, and the human body

Intricate folds and voluminous
draping were key motifs of the 
AW25 collection designed by 
three new creative directors.
Photograph: Anna Nguyen
The collection’s title, To Wear a Piece of Cloth, encapsulates the essence of the show. Miyake’s design philosophy has always revolved around the transformative potential of fabric. The opening segment featured monochromatic ensembles in shades of creamy white and greys that emphasized simplicity and purity. 

These pieces, constructed with intricate folds and voluminous draping, included capes while long swathes of fabric formed sweeping coats. The new design trio’s expertise in pattern cutting allowed them to create dramatic silhouettes with designs that could easily be worn to a (minimalist) kitchen or garden party.

As the show progressed, the collection transitioned to more contemporary, functional designs. Sophisticated yet simple jerkins in treated cotton, suede baseball jackets, and unadorned sweatpants exemplified the versatility of the line. 

The use of innovative materials, such as plant-based nylon fiber and recycled polyester, showcased the brand’s commitment to sustainability. These fabrics were not only environmentally conscious but also offered a tactile richness that elevated the garments beyond mere utility.

The collection’s Fly line featured garments with selvage details that allowed for multiple configurations. Coats could be worn upside down or sideways, depending on how the buttons were arranged, emphasizing modularity and adaptability. Similarly, the Wall series introduced outerwear with transformative hoods and inside-out design elements, blending practicality with avant-garde aesthetics.

The use of innovative materials, such as plant-based nylon fiber and recycled polyester, showed the brand’s commitment to sustainability

The fabric squares floated like kites, 
a metaphor for freedom and fluidity.
Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Performance art has long been a hallmark of Issey Miyake’s shows, and this collection was no exception. The final segment saw models donning capes that, with a simple unbuttoning, transformed into large fabric squares. 

As the models ran around the runway, these squares floated like kites, creating a visual metaphor for freedom and fluidity. This evocative conclusion was a nod to Miyake’s 1977 Fly with Issey Miyake show, where fabric was similarly celebrated as a medium of limitless creativity.

The IM Men label, which debuted in 2021, represents a new chapter for the Issey Miyake brand. By replacing the Homme Plissé line on the Paris Fashion Week schedule, IM Men signals a shift towards a more experimental, technology-driven approach. 

The design team’s decision to revisit foundational elements of Miyake’s work while incorporating modern innovations demonstrates respect for the brand’s heritage. The result is a collection that feels both rooted in tradition and boldly forward-looking.

One of the standout aspects of the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection was its ability to straddle the line between art and functionality. The garments, while undeniably sculptural, remained wearable. This balance was particularly evident in the use of Ultrasuede and artificial sheepskin, materials that added textural depth without compromising comfort. The collection’s headwear, including scarf-beanie hybrids and bucket hats with extended ear flaps, further illustrated the brand’s ability to merge utility with whimsy.

The IM Men label, which debuted in 2021, represents a new chapter and the design team revisited foundational elements adding modern innovations 

Splashes of brilliant colour
enlivened the monochrome
parts of the new collection.
Photograph: Elli Ioannou
In keeping with contemporary fashion’s emphasis on sustainability, the collection incorporated eco-friendly materials and processes. The Switch line utilized plant-based nylon fibers derived from castor and corn, while the Metallic Ultra Boa division employed foil printing techniques to create angular outerwear with a futuristic edge. 

These innovations not only reduced the collection’s environmental footprint but also reinforced its position at the cutting edge of textile technology

Throughout the show, the interplay between fabric and movement was a recurring theme. The Flat Drape segment featured garments that seemed to come alive with each step, the shirts, coats, and trousers rippling like waves. 

This emphasis on movement highlighted the collection’s kinship with dance, a motif that has long been central to Miyake’s work. By incorporating elements of performance art, the show transformed the runway into a stage for storytelling, where each piece of clothing became a character in its own right.

The Autumn/Winter 2025 collection marks a significant milestone for IM Men. Under the guidance of Kawahara, Itakura, and Kobayashi, the label has emerged as a dynamic force within the Issey Miyake universe. By blending the brand’s storied past with contemporary innovation, the design trio has created a collection that is as intellectually stimulating as it is visually striking.

This emphasis on movement highlighted the collection’s kinship with dance, a motif that has long been central to Miyake’s work

The three new artistic directors of Issey Miyake's
IM Men collection: Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara 
Nobutaka Kobayashi at their exhibition in Paris.
Photograph: Jay Zoo

The designers say that IM Men is still based on Issey Miyake's original idea of "a piece of cloth," but they aim to redefine the concept through shape and construction, combining engineering and design.

Back in Paris, as the final models sprinted off the runway, their capes billowing behind them, the audience was left with a sense of exhilaration. This was more than a fashion show; it was a celebration of creativity, craftsmanship, and the enduring legacy of Miyake himself. 

With IM Men, the brand has not only honored its founder’s vision but also charted a course for its future, one where tradition and innovation coexist in harmony.

 Scroll down to see more highlights from the Issey Miyake Autumne/Winter 2025-26 collection in Paris

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Issey Miyake IM Men. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

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Thursday, 23 January 2025

Fashion as Resistance: Walter Van Beirendonck’s Brilliant Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Collection in Paris

An enthralled audience at the runway show of Walter Van Beirendonck in Paris. The juxtaposition of the familiar, and the strange makes his work compelling. Photograph and masthead by Anna Nguyen for DAM 

Walter Van Beirendonck delivered a show-stopping collection at Paris Fashion Week merging imaginative designs with searing social critique. The Belgian, known for his fearless approach to fashion, used the Autumn/Winter 2025-26 menswear runway as a platform to confront the turmoil of our times. His ability to weave cutting-edge work with poignant commentary once again cemented his status as one of fashion’s most daring and enduring creative forces, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Jay Zoo and Anna Nguyen

The Belgian designer, a member of the 
1980s Antwerp Six, says he took a
"contemplative" approach to 
designing his new collection.
Photograph: Jay Zoo
WHILE many designers often shy away from engaging directly with the political sphere, Walter Van Beirendonck’s willingness to take a stand is a hallmark of his work. Speaking after the show, the designer made it clear that his collection was a direct response to the political turmoil surrounding the inauguration of US President Donald Trump.

The designer expressed his belief that too many in the fashion world remained silent, afraid of alienating potential customers or disrupting the status quo. In a moment of candour, he stated to Agence France-Presse: “Too much war, too much extreme right,” underscoring his frustration with the state of the world. 

He also lamented the fashion industry’s lack of action: “They are all afraid of selling less, the money is an issue, that’s why we see the most incredible things happening and nobody is reacting.”

Van Beirendonck's comments echoed his broader belief in fashion as a form of resistance and commentary. He has long used his designs to address issues of identity, human rights, and environmental sustainability, and his latest collection continues this tradition. The alien motifs, in particular, have become synonymous with his work as a symbol of the outsider. To Van Beirendonck, aliens represent those who are different or misunderstood, and his runway show served as a celebration of that difference.

The Belgian uses his work to speak out on pressing issues, and his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection was obviously no exception. Politically-charged messages were embroidered into many pieces. Jackets bore patches that read “Peace, not war” and “We come in peace,” resonating with the current global climate of tension and division. 

Walter Van Beirendonck sees fashion as a form of resistance and has long used his designs to address issues of identity, human rights, and environmental sustainability

Backstage before Walter Van Beirendonck's
show in Paris, the models wear elongated, 
prosthetic fingers as part of their look.
Photograph: Jay Zoo
These messages of peace and unity were amplified during the show’s finale, as models gathered at the center of the crescent-shaped runway, raising peace signs while John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s Give Peace a Chance played in the background. The moment felt both celebratory and mournful, a reminder of how far the world still has to go in the pursuit of harmony.

While the show’s political messages were loud and clear, Van Beirendonck’s craftsmanship and technical innovation remained central to his work. He is a master of balancing artistic expression with wearability, and this collection was no different. Alongside the more outlandish designs, there were classic loose-fitting suits in rich tweeds, a nod to traditional menswear but reinterpreted through the designer’s unique lens. 

These suits, paired with oversized scarves or sculptural headpieces, conveyed an air of both elegance and rebellion. The juxtaposition of the familiar with the strange is what makes Van Beirendonck’s work so compelling: it challenges the viewer to question what fashion can be.

Messages of peace and unity were amplified during the show’s finale, as models gathered  raising peace signs while John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s 'Give Peace a Chance' played 

Checked suits, oversized bowler hats and 
shirts with cartoony motifs were 
beautifully made yet subversive. 
Photograph: Anna Nguyen
This latest collection was a virtuoso exploration of contrasts. Van Beirendonck continues to push the boundaries of fashion, blending nostalgia with forward-thinking design. Models strode down the runway in a striking mix of oversized beige bowler hats and Seventies checkered suits, which nodded to retro bohemian aesthetics while subverting expectations with their avant-garde flair. 

The influence of past decades was undeniable, yet Van Beirendonck’s work was not nostalgic. His pieces embraced theatrical proportions and surreal details, challenging conventional menswear norms.

The collection’s alien-inspired elements took centre stage. There were references to extraterrestrial life in the form of exaggerated silicone finger prosthetics. These spindly, otherworldly appendages punctuated the models' looks, adding a layer of the preternatural to the collection's serious undertones. 

The alien theme was further explored through cartoonish motifs, such as spacecraft-adorned collared shirts and handbags designed to resemble alien faces, which added to the spectral atmosphere. Van Beirendonck’s fascination with the unknown served as both a visual motif and a metaphor for the marginalized, the outsiders of society. But the designs are beautifully made using superb textiles.

"I focused heavily on precise tailoring and high-quality fabrics, and I used traditional knowledge dating back centuries to think up new lengths and exciting shapes using innovative methods." he explained. "Beautiful fabrics sourced from English and Scottish mills, mixed with 3D-printed pieces and AI-generated images. Alien couches that care for you!"

The collection’s alien-inspired elements like the exaggerated silicone finger prosthetics, added a layer of the preternatural to the collection's serious undertones. 

A sleek overcoat and natty bag
contrast with alien-like fingers.
Photograph: Jay zoo
The collection was steeped in social commentary. In his show notes, the designer made it clear that he felt fashion had become too obsessed with nostalgia, particularly with the growing trend of vintage and archival clothing. “The boom of vintage or archival clothing... makes for few interesting or unseen volumes walking the streets,” he remarked, calling for a reinvention of fashion that moves beyond the past. 

Van Beirendonck designed classic suits but reimagined them in bold new ways. Wide trousers with pleats that ballooned out, and jackets that hugged the shoulders before trailing into elongated lines, were part of his effort to redefine the silhouette of modern menswear.

The collection also leaned heavily into what could be described as a dystopian aesthetic, with references to workwear and futuristic fabrics. Baseball caps with floor-length fringe and bomber jackets with oversized studs were some of the standout pieces that made a statement about the state of the world today. 

The emphasis on bright neon colors: orange, pink, green, and electric blue added to the sense of otherworldliness, contrasting sharply with some of the more subdued, muted pieces in brown and navy. Despite the fanciful elements, the underlying message was clear. 

Van Beirendonck’s collection was also a call to action, a plea for creativity to respond to the political challenges of the moment. His provocative statements, from the alien motifs to the political patches and peace symbols, encapsulated his belief that fashion should be more than just a product to be consumed. 

Classic suits were reimagined in bold new ways: wide trousers with pleats ballooned out, jackets hugged the shoulders before trailing into elongated lines, redefining the silhouette of modern menswear

The collection finale in all its corporeal splendour.
Photograph: Anna Nguyen. 


The designer remains one of the most visionary minds in fashion, undeterred by trends and unafraid to make bold statements. His Paris show reaffirmed his commitment to not only pushing the limits of design but also using fashion as a vehicle for social and political commentary. 

From his career taking off in the 1980s in Antwerp until now, Van Beirendonck has seen design as a way to challenge the status quo. And in times of crisis, he believes it becomes even more essential to speak out through creative expression. In an era where many are hesitant to speak out, Walter Van Beirendonck’s new collection stood as a powerful reminder that fashion can, and should, be a force for change.

Scroll down to see more highlights from the show including exclusive backstage images

Paris Fashion Week. Autumn/Winter 2025-2026: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph; Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck: Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo    

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph; Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo

Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo
Paris Fashion Week, Autumn/Winter 2025-26: Walter Van Beirendonck. Photograph: Jay Zoo



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Wednesday, 22 January 2025

Paris Fashion Week: Cyberpunk Meets Nostalgia in Kidill’s Autumn/Winter 2025-26 Collection

Punk and rave culture inspired Hiroaki Sueyasu's new collection at Paris Fashion Week 

HIROAKI SUEYASU'S Autumn/Winter 2025 collection for Kidell, presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, reflects a deep-rooted connection to the rebellious spirit of late 90s and early 2000s Harajuku. This era, defined by youthful defiance and innovative self-expression, saw Tokyo’s youth redefine fashion by blending cultural influences, reinterpreting vintage styles, and customizing their clothing. Inspired by this dynamic period, which publications like Tune and Fruits captured vividly, Sueyasu channels its energy and individuality into a collection that resonates both with nostalgia and modernity.

Central to this season’s narrative is a collaboration with A Store Robot, a Harajuku institution since 1982 and a key figure in Tokyo’s alternative scene. Known for its historic revival of Vivienne Westwood’s Seditionaries, the store’s punk legacy aligns with the Japanese designer's vision. This partnership anchors the collection in a rich historical context, exploring the essence of “the real” and redefining the concept of fashion.

The collection further blends influences from Sueyasu’s personal experiences in Tokyo and London, merging elements of punk and rave culture. Bright camouflage patterns, metallic textures, and cyberpunk-inspired accents evoke Harajuku’s vibrant contrasts, while unconventional stitching and industrial finishes add a contemporary edge. Another collaboration with Los Angeles artist Brett Westfall introduces playful illustrations of strawberries, skaters, and punk-inspired motifs, enhancing the collection’s whimsical yet grounded aesthetic.

Kidill's new collection stands out for its thoughtful reimagining of the past. Sueyasu avoids the trap of mere nostalgia, instead using historical influences to question the authenticity of style in the present. By celebrating the enduring spirit of Harajuku’s creative rebellion, Sueyasu crafts a collection that bridges eras, paying homage to past legacies while pushing the boundaries of futuristic fashion stories. ~ Antonio Visconti

See highlights from Kidill's Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection below

















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