Wednesday 2 October 2024

Gen Z Supports Sustainability and Fuels Ultra-Fast Fashion ~ How Does that Work?

Gen Z's shopping habits often fail to align with their values: they covet very affordable brand-new clothing yet they are aware of the environmental problems caused by ultra-fast fashion. 

By Marian Makkar, RMIT University and Amanda Spry, RMIT University

Generation Z has been called “the sustainability generation”.

Born between 1997 and 2013, 58% of this consumer cohort seek to buy products that are sourced sustainably. Australian Gen Zs say they are willing to pay more for brands that have a positive impact on society.

Yet, at the same time, we have witnessed the meteoric rise of ultra-fast fashion from online, direct-to-consumer retailers such as Shein, Temu and Boohoo. Shein alone generated US$32.5 billion (A$48.3 billion) in revenue in 2024 – a 43% increase from 2022.

There are complexities surrounding Gen Z’s shopping habits and how these often fail to align with their values.

On one hand, they covet a brand-new clothing item that is markedly more affordable when purchased from an ultra-fast fashion brand. On the other hand, they are aware of the environmental harms.

What explains this cognitive dissonance?

Caring about the environment …

Different from their predecessors, Gen Z has grown up with climate change as an urgent issue. Being chronically online means these concerns are not limited to their local environment.

Recent research revealed a pattern of stronger emotions of fear, guilt and outrage about the impacts of climate change among younger people, compared with older groups. These emotions could well be a driver of their activism and engagement with climate change.

They expect companies – those they buy from and work for – to prioritise sustainability in their business practices.

However, Gen Z crave more engaging ways to receive sustainability-related content. This is a worthy consideration for key players in the fashion industry.

… vs the temptation of fast fashion

Gen Z consumers are plugged into social media trends that appear with every scroll and swipe on TikTok and Instagram. Social media have spiked cultural trends that accelerate fast fashion.

Influencers promote “reps” (slang for replicas) and “dupes” (duplicates): cheaper, imitation versions of high-end fashion items. This is a way to democratise luxury by normalising “superfake” products and making luxury more accessible to a broader audience.

Social media tactics such as “hauls” and get-ready-with-me (“GRWM”) videos entice Gen Zs to get stuck on the treadmill of overconsumption. The idea is for content creators to show off massive amounts of new, trendy clothing. This in turn fuels the desire for consumers to continuously buy what they are seeing online – in bulk.

Fast fashion giants such as Zara and H&M have based their business models on translating what is on catwalks into cheap clothing, produced in mass quantities. Now, ultra-fast fashion brands such as Shein speed up the production cycle, the trend churn and consequently the volume.

Having seven trending items, over two high-quality outfits, makes more sense to Gen Z consumers in the digital age.

The cost-of-living crisis plays a part too. A recent survey of Australian Gen Zs revealed at least 77% are experiencing money concerns.

The biggest demographic to pull back on spending due to economic stress are 18–26-year-olds. Young people typically earn the lowest wages and enjoy less job security. These financial constraints are challenging to Gen Zs seeking to consume more sustainably.

Fast fashion becomes a cheap option for them to stay trendy without breaking the bank.

The ‘attitude–behaviour gap’

Gen Z are Shein shoppers, haul lovers, micro-trend followers, and repeat outfit shamers. This stands starkly against their eco-conscious values.

While this seems hypocritical, it is what is referred to as the attitude–behaviour gap – the incongruence between what people say and what they actually do. This is a phenomenon noted across multiple generations.

The attitude–behaviour gap has been widely documented in social psychology and ethical consumerism studies. These underscore that consumer intentions are not reliable predictors of behaviour.

Even ethically minded consumers do not always walk their talk. But we can’t expect individual consumers to be entirely responsible for things like the carbon footprint of fast fashion, or the exploitation of workers in factories.

The clothing industry lacks transparency in business practice and Gen Z consumers often lack information about the products they are buying.

The responsibility to shop sustainably should not fall solely on consumers, but on governments, policymakers and corporations to be more ethical.

Unsurprisingly, 88% of Gen Z shoppers do not trust companies’ sustainability claims.

What does this mean for the sustainability movement?

Despite climate change being a major stressor for Gen Z, the attitude–behaviour gap continues to exist when it comes to hunting for a new outfit.

Being bombarded with persuasive tactics from brands and influencers, the ease of access to new items at the click of a button, and the allure of affordable pricing amid a cost-of-living crisis makes it very difficult for even the most committed Gen Z consumer to buy ethically.

The fashion industry is one of the biggest dangers to the environment in terms of its carbon and raw material footprint, and truckloads of clothing ending up in landfills.

While most young people know and respect Greta Thunberg’s environmental mission, she is not the one they are watching on TikTok or liking on Instagram.

It is time to re-engage with social media content creators in different ways that educate consumers, promote responsible behaviour and advocate for changed regulations and business practices. This might include tried-and-true tactics such as influencer endorsements and haul videos that are refocused on more sustainable options – like online second-hand retailers.

The emergence of “underconsumption core” on TikTok in recent months, as well as “deinfluencing”, where influencers call on their followers to buy less, is promising.

While sustainable clothing has a “bad rap” for being expensive, fast fashion brands are trying to adapt by offering options such as H&M Conscious. Any fashion offering must be convenient, accessible and trendy to capture Gen Z’s attention and wallet.The Conversation

Marian Makkar, Senior Lecturer in Marketing, RMIT University and Amanda Spry, Senior Lecturer of Marketing, RMIT University

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The Power of the Pen: Shiatzy Chen’s Calligraphy-Inspired Spring Collection

Models follow the sinuous lines of Shiatzy Chen's Paris SS25 runway with its giant pen at the centre, suggesting the motif of the show. Photograph by Elli Ioannou for DAM


At Paris' iconic Palais de Tokyo, Shiatzy Chen’s Spring/Summer 2025 merged ancient artistry with contemporary fashion in a masterful celebration of the written word. For the designer, the pen is more than a writing tool, she makes it a symbol of creativity, where tradition meets modernity, and East fuses with West in an inspiring narrative expressed through form and texture, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou and Anna Nguyen

The delicacy and fluidity of 
translucent silk, shimmering
sequins and floating feathers
were highlights of the collection.
SHIATZY CHEN'S latest collection reimagines the writing brush and pen as symbols of artistic expression, weaving then into the very fabric of the designs. "From the nib a symphony of sights can be created: mountains, rivers, birds, and starry nights,” the designer said, describing her inspiration. 

The collection’s silhouettes echo the fluidity of brushstrokes, and from the first model’s stride, the designs are meant to feel as though each movement forms part of a calligraphic painting unfolding on the runway. 

The Paris show opened with a flourish, the models gliding down the runway, following a sinuous ink trail. Each look was deliberate, yet free-spirited, mirroring the precision and spontaneity of calligraphy. The flowing fabrics and delicate details created a dance between past and future, tradition and innovation. 

Soft neutrals dominated the palette with shades of celadon, khaki, and yellow creating a tranquil backdrop, offset by bold dashes of shimmering black. Amid these tones, flashes of translucent red emerged like accents of passion, embodying the dynamic contrast between light and dark, flexibility and strength. 

Each look was deliberate, yet free-spirited, mirroring the precision and spontaneity of calligraphy.

Gauzy fabrics draped beautifully
suggested the movement 
of the body beneath.

The fabrics reflected the theme of calligraphy’s graceful, weightless strokes. Light woolen tassels and delicate layers of gauze and silk seemed to move as effortlessly as the tip of a writing brush. Materials were carefully chosen to suggest boldness and subtlety with a refined aesthetic. 

At the heart of Shiatzy Chen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection are two symbolic figures: the dragonfly and the iris. The dragonfly, with its seeming weightless agility is beautifully designed and accented by topaz, black onyx, and mother-of-pearl. 

The iris, a flower often linked to creativity, bloomed across the garments through intricate embroidery, infusing each piece with a sense of movement and life. The craftsmanship extended to the accessories, where the pen was translated into sleek, sophisticated designs. 

Asymmetrical earrings and waist chains mimicked the fluid curves of brushstrokes, while metal heels added a sharp, modern edge. Shiatzy Chen’s signature jade bangle handles returned in this collection, this time reimagined as the Paint Brush Jade Bangle, suggesting the calligraphy brush. 

Though forward-thinking, Shiatzy Chen’s collection also paid homage to the 1920s, with nods to the straight silhouettes and low-waisted cuts of the era. The modernized versions of cummerbunds and diagonal lapel vests brought a luxurious twist to these retro-inspired pieces, blending them seamlessly with the collection’s futuristic elements. 

Light woolen tassels flowed, while delicate layers of gauze and silk seemed to move as effortlessly as the tip of a writing brush.

Shiatzy Chen's showed her signature
fusion of East and West in the new
collection in Paris.




The result was a fusion of East and West, past and present, creating a look that was simultaneously timeless and avant-garde. The soft-yet-sharp essence of the writing brush inspired not only the garments but also the footwear and accessories. 

From the brushstroke-like curvature of metal heels to the sleek, minimalist lines of angled collars, the collection aimed to embody the quiet power of the pen. 

Since Shiatzy Chen’s debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2008, the brand has established itself as a force on the international fashion scene. With clients ranging from celebrities like Victoria Beckham and Elizabeth Hurley to influential Taiwanese figures, Shiatzy Chen’s designs have gained a loyal following worldwide. 

The brand’s continued presence on the Paris runway, including this latest show at the Palais de Tokyo, solidifies its reputation as a bridge between cultures and eras. 

For this season, Taiwanese designer has once again demonstrated her ability to take inspiration from Chinese culture and translate it into fashion that speaks to a global audience. The pen may be mightier than the sword, but in Shiatzy Chen’s hands, it is also mightier than fabric, crafting not only garments but new fashion stories.

Scroll down to see more highlights from Shiatzy Chen SS25:
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou



Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Shiatzy Chen, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 2025, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

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Thursday 26 September 2024

Whimsical Worlds: Inside Florentina Leitner’s Enchanted Spring/Summer 2025 Collection

A Madonna of the Unicorn, one of the ethereal designs in the new collection by Florentina Leitner, shown in Paris. Main photograph above by Andrea Heinsohn.

Florentina Leitner's Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a homage to the enchanting world of The Last Unicorn. Inspired by the beloved 1982 animated film, the designer gave her runway a nostalgic ambiance combined with avant-garde flair. Her storytelling and sense of whimsy adds to the contrast of otherworldliness and contemporaneity in her work, writes Isabella Lancellotti. Photographs by Andrea Heinsohn

Fiery red symbolizing passion
and strength was a potent
motif in the collection
THE new collection by Florentina Leitner draws directly from the visual and emotional richness of The Last Unicorn, taking key moments from the unicorn’s journey as creative touchpoints. Leitner’s pieces are alive with the same ethereal charm and mystique, from the unicorn’s search for her lost kind to her transformative experiences as a human.  

These ideas are translated into the designs through an interesting use of materials: delicate lace and shimmering silks evoke a sense of fragility, while bold, screen-printed designs and laser-cut details echo the imagery of the Red Bull’s fiery menace.

Leitner’s use of unicorn-inspired prints, along with intricate 3D embellishments, immerses viewers in a world that is both mythological and contemporary, a world where fantasy is intertwined with high fashion. The designer's ability to weave a complex narrative into her creations is what sets her apart. 

Through her artful use of fabrics and forms, Leitner brings the film to life on the runway, capturing the dreamlike quality and the emotional depths of its story. “The Last Unicorn was a defining part of my childhood, and with this collection, I wanted to revive that sense of wonder and translate it into today’s fashion,” the designer explains. “It’s a dream to bring that magic back for a new generation while still honouring the film’s timeless beauty.” 

“The Last Unicorn was a defining part of my childhood, and with this collection, I wanted to revive that sense of wonder and translate it into today’s fashion.”

The Last Unicorn was the 
inspiration for the collection
Florentina Leitner’s collaboration with Peter S. Beagle’s team ensures ensured she had a real grasp of the story. Some pieces in the collection speak to the power of transformation and the quest for identity, much like the unicorn’s own journey. Diaphanous dresses contrast with more structured silhouettes, reflecting the duality of the character. the designer says. 

Bold dashes of color, inspired by the vivid animation of the original film, are strategically placed against softer, pastel hues to emphasize the tension between innocence and strength. 

Known for her signature floral motifs and feminine flourishes, Leitner’s collection is both playful and refined. Her expert craftsmanship is visible in details, with lightweight pieces that feel as though they could float off the runway.

The designer’s use of 3D flowers ~ a hallmark of her previous collections ~ is particularly striking in this offering, enhancing the fairy-tale allure while reinforcing the natural beauty central to the unicorn’s narrative. 

The result is a collection that is unmistakably Leitner: imaginative, daring, and rooted in an understanding of both fashion and storytelling. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2022, after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Leitner has made a name for herself with her distinct blend of semi-couture craftsmanship, whimsical femininity, and artistic vision. 

Known for her signature floral motifs and feminine flourishes, Leitner’s collection is both playful and refined

Unicorns and quixotic headscarves
added to the sense of  otherworldliness
Based in Antwerp, her ready-to-wear collections are produced in small artisanal factories in Italy. Leitner’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection reaffirms her place as a designer to watch, offering not only clothes but her own, particular world view.

In a fashion landscape that often feels dominated by trends and fleeting moments, Florentina Leitner’s latest collection stands out for its connection to a beloved story and its commitment to savoir faire. 

The SS25 line invites us to rediscover the sense of wonder we felt as children and to incorporate that kind of forgotten "magic" as part of our modern identity. Through this collection, Florentina Leitner wants to make fashion a potent form of storytelling, one that allows us to explore the complexities of who we are, where we’ve been, and where we’re going.

Scroll down to see more highlights from the collection in Paris




























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