Less is More: JW Anderson’s Bold Minimalism for Spring/Summer 2025

Phrases from an essay on art and design by Clive Bell, one of the Bloomsbury Group, featured on new pieces in Anderson's SS25 collection in London

In a world saturated with over-the-top extravagance, JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week brought a refreshing, disciplined approach. By embracing limitations in materials and design elements, the Irish designer unlocked an unexpected sense of freedom, writes Antonio Visconti

Trompe l'oeil and striking weaving

added a note of complexity to 

seemingly simple designs

JONATHAN Anderson's new collection was held amid the industrial grandeur of the Victorian former market, Old Billingsgate on the River Thames, transformed by architect Lord Richard Rogers in the 1980s. 

This season the designer focused on a palette of silk satin, cashmere, calf leather, and sequins, with lace serving as the only decorative flourish.What could have been restrictive transformed into an exploration of modern femininity and playful aesthetics, where minimalist silhouettes and grand gestures coexisted in harmony. 

The collection had a simple if not stark aesthetic, with streamlined silhouettes and pared-back materials. But a closer exploration, revealed intriguing contrasts: oversized knit stitches, inflated bows, and skirts drawn into perfect circles. 

These bold, sculptural shapes juxtaposed with slim, figure-hugging pieces created an intricate dialogue between volume and structure. Anderson's careful manipulation of scale and material transformed everyday items like sweatshirts, sweaters, and bomber jackets into conceptual works of art.  While his use of familiar shapes and fabrics may have seemed subdued, Anderson’s deeper message was anything but. This collection wasn’t just a design exercise, it was a statement on the state of fashion today. 

Bold, sculptural shapes juxtaposed with slim, figure-hugging pieces created an intricate dialogue between volume and structure

A study in contrasts: a heavy, cable knit

with a strong pattern and a light, silken 

dress embellished with fine lace

In an era of excess, Anderson called for simplification, urging the industry to refocus and reconsider its trajectory. 

Yet, within these restrictions, he proved that creativity can still thrive, drawing on his signature techniques and weaving in references to his past work, all while looking ahead to the future of fashion. 

Tough, independent femininity was a recurring theme, with Anderson drawing inspiration from the spirited camaraderie of young women, particularly his own sister and her friends. 

The collection, from its sculptural dresses to playful argyle motifs, spoke to this sense of independence, a nod to the resilience and strength of women. 

 In a time when fashion is at a crossroads, JW Anderson's Spring/Summer 2025 collection feels like a rallying cry. It is a reminder that less can be more and that within limitations, true innovation can flourish.

See more highlights from Jonathan Anderson's SS25 collection below