Wednesday 20 January 2021

Lady Gaga wears Schiaparelli at U.S President-elect Joe Biden’s inauguration ceremony

A striking navy cashmere bodice and billowing red silk skirt are a brilliant foil for Daniel Roseberry's gold dove of peace, as Lady Gaga arrives to sing for President-elect Joe Biden's inauguration ceremony in Washington D.C

Lady Gaga wore a dramatic haute couture ensemble with a Surrealist gilded brooch of a dove from French fashion house Schiaparelli. Designed by Texan Daniel Roseberry for the singer's performance at U.S President-elect Joe Biden’s inauguration ceremony, it made an evocative political and fashion statement, writes Jeanne-Marie Cilento 

Schiaparelli artistic director,
Daniel Roseberry's drawing 
of the original concept 
for Lady Gaga's look

ELSA Schiaparelli, Roman aristocrat, feminist and iconoclast, was one of the most revolutionary fashion designers of the early 20th century. Her striking Surrealist jewellery became an iconic part of her design lexicon, enhancing the dramatic gowns she created. 

Alberto Giacometti created bracelets and buttons representing mythological, animal creatures for her Paris collections. Brooches in the shape of an eye, decorated with a pearl in the form of a tear, were designed by Jean Cocteau. 

During the 1930s, Elsa also collaborated with Salvador Dali on suits with pockets that looked like drawers, a shoe-shaped hat and the famous lobster-print and skeleton dresses 

Even her mix of sportswear with the fine workmanship of couture was so innovative that her first licensing agreements were offered by American textile manufacturers.

Today, Daniel Roseberry, the artistic director of Maison Schiaparelli, uses his designs for jewellery as key motifs in his collections that connect back to the fashion house's avant-garde philosophy. 

The Texan designer took the reins of the Paris-based label in 2019 and his first collections combined contemporary fluidity with the dreaminess and experimentation of Elsa Schiaparelli. He says he is inspired by the history of Maison Schiaparelli, founded on inventiveness and ideas rather than just making beautiful clothes. 

Lady Gaga greets President Biden and
Vice President Kamala Harris at the Capitol
It seems fitting that the Oscar-winning Lady Gaga (Stefani Germanotta) chose the American designer to create her outfit for Joe Biden’s inaugural ceremony as America's 46th President, alongside Kamala Harris, the first female and first black and South Asian Vice President. 

At this 59th presidential inauguration, Harris wore a symbolic, deep purple dress and matching coat by by two young black American fashion designers, Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson. 

Jewellery was important to her look too as the new vice president wore her signature pearl necklace, this time designed by Wilfredo Rosado especially for the occasion. At the ceremony in Washington D.C, Lady Gaga made both a political and fashion statement with her ensemble as she sang the national anthem to an enthusiastic audience. The 'Star-Spangled Banner' is a challenge to sing but she sang with passion and rousing applause greeted her performance.  

Gaga has been a keen Biden supporter and has encouraged her social media followers during the election to vote for him and Kamala Harris. She has often used her astonishing outfits to bring attention to her beliefs including her embellished "Vote" creation she wore in 2016, her meat dress worn at the 2010 VMAs and the singer's transformative gown at the most recent Met Gala. 

Daniel Roseberry's painting of
the final design 
However, for the inauguration Lady Gaga wanted to wear a gown that was formal enough to fit the occasion yet evoked the new ethos of the Biden presidency. 
And in the aftermath of the tumultuous era of Donald Trump, especially after the insurrection at the Capitol building just two weeks earlier, peace seemed a radical concept. 

So she wore a large, gilded Schiaparelli dove and olive branch as a brooch, designed by Roseberry, on her jacket symbolizing peace, love and renewal and Biden's theme of unity. 

The sheer size of the brooch with its glittering, gilt design gives it a Surrealist connotation and made it stand out against the custom Schiaparelli haute couture, dark-blue cashmere fitted jacket and billowing skirt in red silk faille. 

Gaga wore matching Schiaparelli Couture olive branch gold earrings and even had a gold microphone and gilded ear-monitors. Roseberry's voluminous design also paid homage to Elsa Schiaparelli's passion for dramatic silhouettes.

“As an American living in Paris, this ensemble is a love letter to the country I miss so dearly and to a performer whose artistry I have so long admired," said Daniel Roseberry. "Maison Schiaparelli is honored to have this chance to dress the iconic Lady Gaga on this historic Inauguration Day. God Bless Lady Gaga and God Bless America.” 

Lady Gaga's sings the US national
anthem as the new president looks on
The ensemble was a vivid contrast to the monochrome Givenchy cape she wore the day before the inauguration, when she arrived in Washington D.C and visited the Capitol building. The rich colours and flowing design of Roseberry's creation with the glimmering, soaring dove pinned to Lady Gaga's  bodice added to the pomp and ceremony of the presidential investiture. 

Gaga’s stylist, Sandra Amador, told Vogue, that she and the singer wanted a look that was “strong, romantic, and timeless. The dove, which represents love and peace, was our biggest inspiration. We paired the look with matching Schiaparelli Couture olive branch gold earrings and a pair of Cornelia James black gloves.” 

The day before the ceremony, Lady Gaga wrote that she hoped the inauguration would be the start of a more unified and tranquil era in the USA. “I pray tomorrow will be a day of peace for all Americans. A day for love, not hatred. A day for acceptance, not fear. A day for dreaming of our future joy as a country. A dream that is non-violent, a dream that provides safety for our souls.” Amen to that. 

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