Friday 13 March 2015

New Looks & Trends: What We'll Be Wearing Autumn/Winter 2016

Tangerine, red and pink with dashes of lime green were key notes at the Fyodor Golan collection. Photo by Mike Rolls
Now the London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks have come to a close, our correspondents Limor Helfgott and photographer Mike Rolls take a look back at the highlights and trends that will influence what we'll be wearing during the next autumn/winter season

WINTER fashion always seems more challenging than the spring or summer with toned colour's and many more layers. But London Fashion Week, even with freezing temperatures, proved that winter collections can be colourful and exciting. Designers looked back to the seventies and eighties for inspiration and used furs, asymmetric cuts, leathers, feathers and a lot of fringing and bling. Here are the best of the highlights, designs and trends that were seen on the catwalks this season.

Leather, Leather Everywhere
The first really noticeable trend this season was the use of leather in many of the collections. One of my favourite designers, David Koma, presented a show which was powerful with leather pieces seen on the catwalk alongside nude fabrics, knitwear, wool dresses, lace and macrame. The inspiration for the textiles came from the Op Art designer Barbara Brown.

Leather cut out pieces revealed and concealed flashes of skin and appeared not only in black, but in stunning blue with trims and ruffles. The collections also explored the shapes of the sixties and seventies with the era’s trademark angular lines, asymmetrical cuts and structured shapes. The colour palette was a mix of bright orange to bold indigo, mixed with black and classic nude. The combed back hair and minimal make-up kept all the focus on the clothing.

The Eighties Are Back!
The designer of the moment, J.W. Anderson, also presented leather pieces such as wrap-around leather skirts and long leather dresses. But the label also proved that the 1980’s are back, and I have a feeling it’s the next big thing. With Human League’s music opening the show, the models appeared on the catwalk wearing pussy-bow blouses, over sized printed jumpers, metallic tops and spray-paint effect sweaters all accessorised with belts, big earrings and chunky colourful heeled knee-high boots. It was all about clashing textures, prints and colours.

The Eudon Choi collection also showed hints of the 80’s trend with big, rich metallic pieces but his collection was more geometric, taking inspiration from a Japanese radical architectural movement called “Metabolism” and re-utilising existing Asian design by recycling popular styles. This created a wearable and stylish collection of brave outerwear and precise suiting, layered with structured dresses and architectural knits. There was also a wink towards the 1970’s in the form of over sized fringed shawls and shearling lined jackets and flares. 

Topshop Unique was also all about the Eighties. Creative director Kate Phelan created a collection that mixed a nonchalant Yves Saint Laurent party-girl cool with the 1980s-Kings-Road-Saturday-night vibe. Tailored dresses, black velvet mini dresses and wide flares teamed with big knits plus pieces of leather.

Another trend that was seen on the Topshop catwalk was fur, which will remain the rage for AW15 and was seen on many other catwalks. The House of Holland, Gareth Pugh and Holly Fulton have all given their own take on the fluffy look. And it came in all colours too! Ashley Williams paired her pink fur with PVC to add to her Goth collection. Those less brave among us who are not sure about going for the full furry look, can go for the cuffs and collars which were seen at the Topshop Unique show. 

Furs were also seen at the Jean-Pierre Braganza catwalk that were teamed wonderfully with the other major trend of leather, in the forms of a cropped fur jacket over a leather dress, an aviator jacket, given a glamourous touch with fur trim and stiff leather bracelets as accessories.The show started with the deafening sounds of air-raid sirens, that I have to admit were a bit disturbing to my Israeli ears, and I was half expecting to see utility detailing and khaki coming onto the catwalk. 

Instead, I was surprised to see origami folded dresses more suited to cocktails than a cockpit. The Collection, called “Excelsiora” was created with a modern, strong woman in mind. Like a modern incarnation of an exacting film noir vixen and war-time heroine, she looked deceptively elegant. There were pieces such as Amelia Earhart’s sheepskin flight jacket, A-line skirted designs and thigh-high boots replacing the rigidity of the jet theme to turn it into something more modern and carefree.

Fur and leather detailed pieces were also found at Hakaan Yildirim’s collection, which was the last show for the week. The collection was inspired by the movie “Grey Gardens” and its main characters, a mother and a daughter who lived in poverty but still with great style, using their creativity and imagination to wear the same pieces in different styles. These two women reflected on the attitude of the whole collection against today’s limitations. Oversized duster coats were given a luxury makeover, and garments were teamed with turbans and abstract headwear to add a bohemian edge. Wool, viscose velvet and silk met black, green, cream, red and beige tones and dominated the beautiful collection.

Colours: Red &Tangerine 
At New York fashion week, a certain 70's burnt orange ruled the catwalks, but in London, it was tangerine. Stepping away from the standard sea of beige and neutrals expected at this time of year, this zesty shade made a big impact at the David Koma, Christopher Kane and Sibling shows and I predict it will find its way onto the high street too. So it's going to be a bright next winter. Red was also everywhere, in different shades mixed with pink, white and navy. Tangerine, pink and red were key colours at the Fyodor Golan collection.

The talented Latvian-Israeli duo presented the rainbow wheel collection, collaborating with My Little Pony which they have been “obsessed with since childhood" bringing their own interpretation of the animated characters. Collaged onto garments, the figures bring an element of naivety and joy of nostalgia. The reds and candy-coloured pinks met with bright purple and acid green. Floating on to the catwalk came exciting and innovative pieces inspired by trips to Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong such as a soft pink ribbed turtleneck, structured kimonos, an asymmetric skirt and animated horses across flirty cocktail dresses.

Another collaboration was with Michael Wolf translating his images into plasticized textured prints based on the photographer’s colourful and abstract work of Hong Kong’s housing complexes. As fun and light hearted as the collection was, it was built around luxurious and sophisticated pieces combining clean, geometrical silhouettes with modern luxury. Maybe it will not appear wearable to some of us, but they have certainly brought us a lot of magic.

Another Trend brought to us through this collection was the trend for bling and embellishments. Fyodor Golan brought us delicate orchids and many other designers this season decided that decoration isn’t for spring/summer only: it looks like sequins are going to make their way into our wardrobe in a big way. Holly Fulton presented feathers, jewels and dresses with all-bling detailing and Mary Katrantzou’s collection was full of lavish embellishments, bright patterned furs and multiple prints and textures.

At Jasper Conran’s collection, the bling came to life in a very sophisticated way with geometric sequin dresses and silk Georgette shirts with corsage embroidery. The collection, presented on a carpet of brown leaves covering the catwalk, inspired by painter Augustus John, was full of rich tones of dark navy, bottle green, brown, plum and rich yellow. As always, his signature wearable, simpler looks were my favourites, with a touch of femininity and fine tailoring.  He used wool, cashmere, suede and silk on garments like tunic dresses, A-line skirts and chunky knits to create the perfect head-to-toe wardrobe.

Of course, I can’t finish any LFW coverage without reporting on Burberry’s show. This year was all about one woman: Naomi Campbell, who showed up very fashionably late, and caused a social media meltdown walking into the show with a gorgeous larger than life fluffy white fur coat. Of course, the Burberry show, always highly anticipated, didn’t disappoint. But I am curious to see what trends it will inspire this year. Last year, Burberry’s blanket scarves were all the rage but this year, it was all about bohemian fringing and vibrant prints.

Mosaic encrusted crop tops, heavy fringed ponchos, quilted floral jackets, folk dresses, and lots of trench coats also dominated the catwalk. Colours were darker and more romantic: teal, maroon, olive and magenta with a Sixties touch. So what did we learn from LFW AW15? Fringing is here to stay, so is the leopard print, and it is certainly okay to clash three different prints in totally different colours.

Click on photographs for full-screen slide show
David Koma presented a powerful show using leather, nude fabrics, knitwear, wool, lace and macramé. Photo by Mike Rolls

 Eudon Choi's collection took inspiration from a Japanese radical architectural movement called Metabolism. Photo by Mike Rolls

The geometric collection by Eudon Choi reutilised Asian design by recycling popular styles. Photo by Mike Rolls

Eudon Choi's Japanese-inspired collection included structured dresses in brilliant hues. Photo by Mike Rolls

Leather and stripes were standouts at Eudon Choi. Photo by Mike Rolls 

There was also a wink towards the '70s in the form of oversized fringed shawls at Eudon Choi. Photo by Mike Rolls
Jean-Pierre Braganza's fur jacket with a glamourous leather dress. Photo by Mike Rolls 

Jean-Pierre Braganza's Excelsiora collection was created with a modern, strong woman in mind. Like a incarnation of an exacting film noir vixen and war-time heroine, she looked deceptively elegant. There were pieces such as Amelia Earhart’s sheepskin flight jacket, A-line skirted designs and thigh-high boots. Photo by Mike Rolls 

Leather was featured at the Hakaan Yildrim collection which was inspired by the Grey Gardens film. Photo by Mike Rolls
Turbans and abstract headwear added to the bohemian edge at Hakaan Yildrim. Photo by Mike Rolls
Long, red leather dresses and black turbans featured in the Haakan Yildrim runway. Photo by Mike Rolls
Lavish, oversized coats were highlights of Haakan Yildrim's show. Photo by Mike Rolls 

Leather dresses with cut-out pieces concealed and revealed at David Koma. Photo by Mike Rolls

The David Koma collection explored the shapes of the '60s and '70s with those eras' trademark angular lines, asymmetrical cuts and structured shapes. Photo by Mike Rolls

The colour palette at David Koma was a mix of black and classic nude with bright orange and indigo. The combed back hair and minimal make-up kept all the focus on the clothing. Photo by Mike Rolls
The talented Latvian-Israeli duo Fyodor Golan presented a collection inspired by the animated series My Little Pony. Photo by Mike Rolls
Tangerine, pink and red were key colours at the Fyodor Golan. Photo by Mike Rolls
Candy-coloured pinks met with bright purple and greens on the Fyodor Golan runway. Photo by Mike Rolls
Jasper Conran presented a very sophisticated collection of geometric, sequined dresses presented on a carpet of brown leaves. Photo by Mike Rolls
Silk Georgette shirts with corsage embroidery were a highlight at Jasper Conran. Photo by Mike Rolls 

Inspired by painter Augustus John, Jasper Conran's collection was full of rich tones in yellow, plum and dark green and navy. Photo by Mike Rolls
Human League's music opened the J.W Anderson show with models wearing 1980's pussy-bow blouses, printed jumpers and metallic tops. Photo by Dan Sims, British Fashion Council

Topshop Unique's creative director Kate Phelan created a nonchalant Yves Saint Laurent party girl cool mixed with a 1980s-Kings-Road-Saturday-Night vibe. Photo by Sam Wilson, British Fashion Council

Mary Katrantzou's collection was full of lavish embellishments, bright-patterned furs and different prints and textures. Photo by Shaun James Fox, British Fashion Council
Holly Fulton AW15. Photo by Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council

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