Reconstruct, Reuse, Reduce: the Ethos Behind Palmwine Icecream, the African Brand Redefining Sustainability. Photography by Jay Zoo

Ghanian designer Kusi Kubi unveiled his new AW25 collection at Berlin Fashion Week. 

BERLIN FASHION WEEK has always been a platform for innovation and this season Ghanian label Palmwine Icecream brought African style and sustainability to the runway. As one of the winners of the Berlin Contemporary initiative, designer Kusi Kubi presented his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, an introspective blend of personal storytelling using upcycled materials and intricate craftsmanship to explore notions of cultural identity, and artistic evolution.

Expanding on the previous season’s collection dedicated to his mother, Kubi’s latest work is a tapestry of life experiences: a mood board tracing his journey from fashion intern to established designer. Celebrating important experiences and his creative expression, the new designs merge sustainability with craftsmanship.

At the heart of the collection, titled Life Moodboard lies a commitment to ethical fashion. Kubi’s signature use of recycled materials is more than an aesthetic choice it’s a philosophy. The collection integrates repurposed leather, wood, raffia, calabash, and dead-stock textiles, reinforcing Palmwine Icecream's ethos of reconstruct, reuse and reduce. Each piece embodies an environmentally friendly approach to design while maintaining a polished aesthetic.

Silhouettes in the collection suggest a balance between structure and fluidity while well-cut tailoring contrasts with draped elements, reflecting the tension between discipline and creative freedom. The color palette: rich browns, deep burgundy, earthy greens, and bold blacks are striking and work with the upcycled materials.

For Kubi, however, fashion is more than just clothing; it’s also storytelling. Raised in a traditional Ghanaian household, he draws inspiration from the textures, patterns, and craftsmanship of his heritage. “Whether through the use of traditional techniques or merging cultural references with modern ideas, my culture is woven into everything I create,” he explains.

Founded in 2019, Palmwine Icecream is a fusion of influences, bridging London’s avant-garde fashion with the dynamic markets of Accra. Inspired by Ghana’s Kantamanto Market, one of the world’s largest hubs for second-hand clothing, Kubi’s brand reimagines discarded materials, turning waste into wearable art. The name itself is symbolic: palm wine, a cherished West African drink, and ice cream, an international indulgence, reflect the brand’s identity and experimental spirit.

With this new work, Kubi cements his place as a designer to watch. More than just a collection, it is his manifesto, one that challenges the industry to rethink fashion’s role in sustainability in new ways. ~ Antonio Visconti 

Scroll down to see more highlights from the Palmwine Icecream AW25 collection plus backstage

Berlin Fashion Week: The X-Factor ~ Haderlump's Exploration of the Art of Travel. Photography by Jay Zoo

Train travel was the inspiration for the new Haderlump collection by Johann Ehrhardt. Photograph by Jay Zoo

THE RHYTHMIC CLATTER OF WHEELS on tracks, the fleeting glances exchanged between strangers, the quiet solitude of a journey: Haderlump's Autumn/Winter 2025/26 collection, Solivagant, channels the spirit of mid-20th-century rail travel. Designed by Johann Ehrhardt, the collection explores the intersection of movement and human connection, portraying 28 distinct travelers whose stories unfold through the runway show in Berlin. 

Tailored outerwear dominates the lineup, with coats and blazers reimagined through the label’s evocative aesthetic. Accessories, including bags and suitcases, play a pivotal role in reinforcing the collection’s theme of transience. X-shaped silhouettes, a recurring motif, symbolize convergence: echoing the way railway lines and human paths intersect. Textile manipulation adds depth to the pieces, with wool and denim treated to reflect the wear and oxidation found in vintage train interiors. The color palette, dominated by black, gray, and blue with red accents, evokes the shifting tones of railway landscapes. 

Sustainability remains central to Haderlump's philosophy. The collection is produced in the brand’s Berlin atelier using deadstock fabrics and recycled materials. Transparency in sourcing and production is a key to the label's philosophy. With this new collection, Haderlump continues its exploration of fashion as a study of history, movement, and identity. By drawing from the past while embracing modern craftsmanship, the brand creates designs that are both functional pieces and narratives of transition and connection. ~ Antonio Visconti

Scroll down to see highlights of Haderlump's Autumn/Winter 2025 Collection