Thursday 6 July 2023

Paris Haute Couture Streetstyle: Sartorial Ingenuity on the Urban Runway

Cardi B strikes a pose, wearing an extravagant gold and black look outside the Schiaparelli Haute Couture show in Paris, Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph by Elli Ioannou. Cover picture by Andrea Heinsohn


The City of Light set the fashion world ablaze with its spectacular display of sartorial ingenuity during the recent Paris Haute Couture Week for Autumn-Winter 2023-24. While the extravagant runway shows inside the ornate halls captivated industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts, it was the vibrant, ever evolving streetstyle scene outside that showcased the audacious spirit of modern couture, writes Aurora De Lauro. Photography by Elli Ioannou, Andrea Heinsohn, Patrick Marion and Anna Nguyen

Fashion exhibitionism, 
at the Stephane Rolland show in Paris.
Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
As Paris shimmered under the summer sun's golden embrace, fashion editors, photographers, buyers, bloggers and influencers descended upon the city for the highly anticipated Haute Couture Week for Autumn-Winter 2023-24. 

The historic streets transformed into a runway of their own as fashion enthusiasts from around the globe showcased their sartorial prowess, creating a mesmerizing tapestry of personal style that paralleled the artistry seen on the catwalks. 
From classic to avant-garde, Parisian streetstyle outside the fashion shows was a celebration of individuality and creativity. 

In the heart of the fashion capital, the streets themselves became the stage, and the individuals who graced them were the stars, proving that true haute couture extends beyond the runway and into the very fabric of everyday life. Streetstyle complemented the grandeur of the new collections from storied fashion houses and was a significant force in its own right. The spectacle of sartorial innovation outside the shows mirrored the couturiers' creations indoors, painting a vivid portrait of fashion's potential.
 
Turbans and Surrealist accessories, 
seen at the Schiaparelli show.
Photograph; Anna Nguyen
A Harmonious Blend of Eras and Aesthetics 
Stepping outside the grand venues where the haute couture collections were unveiled, one was transported to a realm where time seemed to blur. 

Traditional Parisian elegance effortlessly intermingled with futuristic elements, producing a vibrant fusion of eras and aesthetics. Vintage silhouettes were reimagined with modern twists, while bold, avant-garde ensembles stood in harmony with more subdued, timeless classics. 
 
The Power of Personal Expression 
What truly stood out was the power of personal expression radiating from outfits. Streetstyle stars defied convention, crafting looks that felt both authentic and imaginative. Bright pops of color, oversized accessories, and unexpected pairings played a vital role in narrating stories of identity and individualism.

Fashion-forward show-goers sported beautifully cut gowns adorned with intricately designed embroidery, a nod to the couture craftsmanship being celebrated inside the showrooms. Silky scarves were transformed into head-turning statement pieces, worn as turbans, as seen outside at the Schiaparelli show (see above). The Schiaparelli guest's full ensemble was by artistic director Daniel Roseberry, including Surrealist accessories, such as the handbag with bejewelled gold lips and nose, plus earrings shaped like an eye. All worn, with an off the shoulder, black form-fitting gown. 

A diaphanous red confection
captured the streetstyle exhuberance
at the Alexis Mabille show in Paris.
Photograph: Patrick Marion
Eco-Conscious Glamour
 
Beyond the glamour and glitz, a prominent theme this season was eco-consciousness. Sustainable fashion took centre stage as attendees demonstrated their commitment to responsible luxury. 

Vintage finds and upcycled garments breathed new life into old treasures, proving that ethical fashion could effortlessly align with high style, like the red diaphanous gown seen at the Alexis Mabille show (see at left).

Haute Couture Homage 
Some fashion devotees drew inspiration directly from the haute couture collections being presented. 

This season saw an enchanting interplay between the runway and the streets, as daring interpretations of the designers' visions brought a touch of fantasy to the bustling avenues of Paris. Elaborate headpieces, feathered embellishments, and sculptural silhouettes were ingeniously reimagined.
 
Global Influence and Cultural Fusion 
Paris, often referred to as a melting pot of cultures, embraced its multicultural tapestry through street style diversity. Fashion enthusiasts from around the world converged, weaving their distinct backgrounds into their outfits. Rich fabrics, intricate embroideries, and bold prints from various cultures coalesced, creating a tapestry of global fashion. 
 
A muscle-bound, double-
breasted suit in rippling rubber 
at the Jean Paul Gaultier show. 
Photograph: Elli Ioannou

From the Bizarre to the Beautiful
The streets of Paris once again showcased the power of style to transcend boundaries and celebrate individuality, including the bizarre, such as this double-breasted suit with a trompe l'oeil of a muscly physique in rubber, seen at Jean Paul Gaultier (see at right)

One of the most engaging aspects of Paris Haute Couture Week's streetstyle was the diverse representation of cultures and influences. The international crowd brought with them a unique blend of styles, celebrating the melting pot of today's fashion. 

Traditional Asian handwork seamlessly merged with Parisian sophistication, while African prints and accessories added a vibrant and empowering touch to the elegant backdrop of the city's iconic architecture.

As the cobblestone streets sweltered in the heat, the air buzzed with an electric mix of anticipation and excitement. Steeped in history, Paris provided a striking backdrop to the array of styles. 

Each outfit was a brushstroke on the canvas of self-expression, and as fashionistas departed, the echoes of their creativity lingered, leaving an indelible mark on the legacy of Paris Haute Couture Week.  

Scroll down to see more highlights from Paris Haute Couture streetstyle.
Wearing all of Daniel Roseberry's gilded designs at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou



Gold newsprint trenchcoat outside Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Oversized white blazer and pink frou-frou at Georges Hobeika. Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Sleek hair and dramatic earrings with unsettling enamel, hazel eyes at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion 

Chiara Ferragni in a subversive little black dress designed by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Veteran fashion journalist Suzie Menkes at the Iris van Herpen show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

A toned midriff amid flowers at Alexis Mabille. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

A red patent leather trench with caped shoulders and leg-of-mutton sleeves makes a colourful statement piece. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn
Delicate and evocative face jewellery outside the Gaurav Gupta show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Violet Chachki in a black velvet Daniel Roseberry jacket with cinched waist at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

At Stephane Rolland's show at the Paris Opera, that was also filmed for a new French movie. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Ready for a showdown on the summer streets, outside the Jean Paul Gaultier show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn


Earrings in the shape of ears and a white boucle dress with full cuffs at Schiaparelli, all designed by Daniel Roseberry. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Bright, minimalist orange and white brings a dash of Mid-Century Palm Springs to the Parisian streets. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Silky fringing brings a contemporary take on the 1920s flapper at Alexix Mabille. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Detail of the fluid fringing and golden, floral bag at Alexis Mabille. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen.

Violet Chachki wearing a stylish and gravity-defying hat at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Oversized YSL black and gold sunglasses and shoulder-length earrings with a cream blazer make an effective combination. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Sage green feathers and silver mini skirt at Georges Hobeika. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Sculptural elegance at Gaurav Gupta. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen. 

Trompe l'oeil fun at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Shapely black velvet and silk gown at Gaurav Gupta. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

A 21st century interpretation of mid-1600s Italian fashion at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Being an extrovert is a great asset for streetstyle posing, shot at the Iris van Herpen show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

A jaunty scarf at the throat, a golden shell brooch and a cream suit, and this man is all set at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Corseted from top to bottom at Georges Hobeika. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Detail of mirrored and black gown at Gaurav Gupta. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Twin black and white looks at Chanel. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Brilliant dashes of colour enliven the steps at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/winter 2023-24. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Black tulle and neon lime green check at Alexis Mabille. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Gilded and diamante glasses and a big, round hat at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

The Eiffel Tower mskes a spectacular backdrop to this orange scarf, flying in the wind. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Cotton reels, scissors and safety pins as a headpiece at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Pretty celestial blue ruffles at Stephane Rolland. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

On the way to Stephane Rolland through the Paris traffic. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Glimmering glitter at Gaurav Gupta. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Daniel Roseberry's creations worn by guests to his new Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou 

All in snowy white in Stephane Rolland at his show at the Palais Garnier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Photographers gather outside the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Shimmering silver sequins and diamante bag at Georges Hobeika. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion 

Look at those gold toes on shoes designed by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Chanel bag in the shape of a perfume bottle outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Shiny gold bustier worn with black hat and glasses at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumne/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Draped trousers in silk complement the drama of the gold bustier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen 

A Schiaparelli bustier at Daniel Roseberry's latest collection. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Black and white stripes make an eye-catching outfit. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Silvery, draped gown at the Gaurav Gupta show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph; Anna Nguyen

Baroque gold handbag with a face and worn with a shimmering silk suit at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Shocking pink and black lace worn by Violet Chachki at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Long plaits and dramatic decolletage worn with a strongly patterned dress stops the Parisian traffic. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Daniel Roseberry's gold face necklace. worn with a draped cream chiffon gown at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Electric blue and curving shapes at Gaurav Gupta. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

Cardi B in a Daniel Roseberry creation at the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Paris Texas and Southwest style in the French capital. Paris Haute Couture Autumne/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Andrea Heinsohn

Turquoise sparkle and feathers at Alexis Mabille. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Patrick Marion

Leonie Hanne in head-to-toe black and gold Schiaparelli, on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Autun/Winter 2023-24. Photograph: Anna Nguyen

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Tuesday 4 July 2023

Highlights of Julien Fournié's Haute Couture Collection Autumn/Winter 2023-24 by Patrick Marion in Paris












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Paris Haute Couture: A Resplendent Ode to Maria Callas: Stéphane Rolland's Couture Autumn/Winter 2023-24 Collection

Inspired by Maria Callas and the glamour of 60's Paris, Stephane Rolland's haute couture collection was shown at the sumptuous Palais Garnier. Main photograph and cover picture by Elli Ioannou for DAM 


The dazzling spectacle of French couturier Stéphane Rolland's Autumn/Winter 2023-24 collection at the historic Opéra Garnier was a highlight of Paris haute couture. A tribute to the legendary opera diva, Maria Callas, who would have celebrated her centenary this year, the show was an enchanting marriage of fashion, music and cinema, writes Antonio Visconti. Photography by Elli Ioannou

Maria Fernanda Candido wears a 
a magnificent red duchess satin gown 
by Stephane Rolland at the Paris show
Stéphane Rolland's latest haute couture collection was a homage to the elegance of Maria Callas. The sumptuous grandeur of the Paris Opéra Garnier was a suitably dramatic backdrop for the opulent runway show. 

Models walked up the broad, white marble staircases and along the mosaic floors of the high-ceilinged hallways, lined with guests. 

Rolland's sartorial artistry was a fitting complement to the majestic surroundings, while the soul-stirring voice of Maria Callas filled the air and was hauntingly beautiful.

The soundscape for the show was created from Callas both singing and speaking, adding depth and emotion to the spectacle. It was as if Callas herself had graced the runway, her spirit infused in the gowns' seams and silhouettes. Along with the resplendent gowns, the acoustics cast a spell over the audience.

The autumn/winter 2023-24 collection was a showcase of Rolland's artistry and ability to marry structure and fluidity, elegance and drama

A diaphanous black chiffon dress 
with a white gazar "flame" flaring 
dramatically from the shoulder. 
Stéphane Rolland's signature is his contemporary couture that bridges the worlds of art, architecture, and sculpture. Rolland says the work of modern architects and designers like Ron Arad and Zaha Hadid are inspirations. His ability to blend history, art, and fashion into a single narrative is a testament to his creative drive and vision.

This season, Rolland's collection extended to the silver screen, with French director Claude Lelouch capturing the magic at the Palais Garnier. The collaboration between Rolland and Lelouch was a meeting of two minds, a union of fashion and cinema. 

Lelouch plans to weave the footage he filmed at the runway show into his upcoming work, Finalement, which will debut at the Paris Opéra. 

The French designer's show transported the audience back to the glamorous Sixties, when Callas graced stages in Paris and around the world. Rolland was inspired by images from that era, capturing the essence of Parisian style and elegance. The collection, comprising 31 exquisite dresses, was an ode to not only Callas's dramatic presence but also the operas that defined her career. 

The silhouettes were minimalist yet graphic, exuding both boldness and delicacy. Rolland used a restricted but dramatic palette with black and white gowns mixed with striking dashes of brilliant red and gold. The couturier is a master of creating arresting forms and silhouettes with rich yet subtle fabrics. He wanted the collection to capture the essence of the glamourous Parisian mid-century aesthetic.

The French designer's signature is his contemporary couture, melding art, architecture, and sculpture

All in brilliant white, a long silk dress
with a geometric cape and a short jacket 
with hand-made porcelain petals.
One of the outstanding designs was a long, white silk dress with a geometrical cape embroidered with crystals and porcelain petals in white wool gazar. Another was a short white jacket with hand-carved porcelain petals that looked three dimensional and was worn with a silk crepe skirt (see at left). 
 
The striking, coral-red "Zeffirelli" dress in embossed crepe was worn with a leather hood shaped like golden tresses. A diaphanous and revealing black chiffon gown was contrasted with a 'flame' of white gazar on the shoulder and diamond belt. 

Other highlights include the red duchess satin "Tosca" dress worn by Maria Fernando Candido and a black silk velvet openwork gown with shimmering gazar ties at the back. The "Traviata" dress with its black velvet corset and sculptural skirt in white organza embroidered with ruby crystals was particularly alluring.  The "Norma" finale was all in white chiffon with a leather acanthus leaf scrolling across the bodice in patinated leather. 

Stéphane Rolland's modern interpretation of couture, rooted in his passion for art, sculpture, and photography, is captivating. From his early beginnings to launching his haute couture house, Rolland's journey has been one of exploring innovation while still creating beautiful, wearable gowns.

The show transported the audience back to the glamorous Sixties, when Callas graced the stage in Paris 

A coral-red crepe gown worn 
with a scintillating gilded 
leather head dress.
Raised in various corners of the world, including Argentina, Paraguay, and the French West Indies, Rolland's talent was recognized early on in Paris when he was hired by none other than Cristóbal Balenciaga at the tender age of twenty years old. 

Following a decade-long stint at Jean-Louis Scherrer, Rolland took the leap and established his haute couture maison in 2007. Since then, he has built a reputation as a pioneering couturier, catering to a clientele ranging from royalty to celebrities in film and music. 

An official member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Rolland still continues to push boundaries and explore new ideas.

This autumn/winter 2023-24 collection was a showcase of Rolland's artistry and ability to marry structure and fluidity, elegance and drama. 

In his world, fashion is not just clothing but has the ability to enthrall and take us to another world.

See highlights from Stephane Rolland's AW23/24 haute couture collection at the Paris Opera













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