Monday 24 October 2022

‘Like walking into a crystal’: our first preview of the Art Gallery of NSW’s new Sydney Modern

Aerial photograph of the Sydney Modern Project construction site, taken on September 7 2022. Photo © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Craig Willoughby
Joanna Mendelssohn, The University of Melbourne

In 1972, when the Art Gallery of New South Wales opened its first modern building, it was rightly praised for its innovative design.

Architect Andrew Andersons incorporated the latest aspects of museum architecture. The egg crate ceilings were designed to reduce noise for people walking on its marble floors. There were moveable screens that looked like walls and adjustable light levels for fragile art.

But where the building faced Sydney Harbour, Andersons placed a giant window. The intrusion of reality into art connected visitors to the world outside.

It was revolutionary for the time, a marked contrast to the giant granite box of the National Gallery of Victoria, opening in 1968. The Melbourne building had followed the standard model of museum design of eliminating windows to maximise hanging space.

Just over 50 years later, the Sydney Modern expansion under architecture firm SANAA could be described as putting Andersons’ approach on steroids. It will open in December but in recent weeks small groups of visitors have been given preview tours, while installation crews make the finishing touches.

A gallery for Indigenous art

The relationship of Sydney Modern to the older building echoes Andersons’ uncompromising but sympathetic linking of his 1972 construction to the original Grand Courts designed by Walter Liberty Vernon.

The new link between the two buildings includes an installation honouring the history of Country by Wiradjuri and Kamilaroi artist Jonathan Jones.

This new building is very aware of its physical and spiritual location. It is dominated by the light from its soaring glass walls. The ground floor entrance feels like walking into a crystal.

In a nod to Andersons’ first glorious window, the Yiribana gallery of Indigenous art has a window facing the harbour so visitors can see where the Gadigal ancestors first witnessed the arrival of convicts in 1788.

The relocation of Yiribana from the basement of the older building is a physical manifestation of the significant shift in Australia’s understanding of its culture.

Installation view of the Yiribana Gallery featuring (left to right) Ronnie Tjampitjinpa ‘Tingari fire dreaming at Wilkinkarra’ 2008, Willy Tjungurrayi ‘Tingari story’ 1986, Yhonnie Scarce ‘Death zephyr’ 2017 (top), Rusty Peters ‘Waterbrain’ 2002 and Vernon Ah Kee ‘Unwritten #9’ 2008. Photo © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter

In 1958, the gallery’s deputy director Tony Tuckson facilitated collector and surgeon Stuart Scougall’s gift of Tiwi Pukumani grave posts. For the first time Indigenous work was shown as art and not anthropological artefact.

In 1972 there was a temporary exhibit of Yirrkala bark paintings and figures, but this was soon replaced with another temporary exhibition.

In late 1973, funding from the arts programs associated with the opening of the Sydney Opera House enabled a permanent installation of Melanesian art, another gift from Scougall. It was accompanied by what the trustees thought would be a temporary exhibition of Aboriginal art.

Tuckson died while the exhibition was being installed and it remained on view, in a dark little space at the bottom of the gallery’s marble stairs, until about 1980.

In 1983, Djon Mundine curated a temporary exhibition of bark paintings and the following year was appointed as part-time curator, but there was little official interest in Aboriginal art by the gallery.

The big shift came in 1991 when Hetti Perkins curated another temporary exhibition, this time of previously little-known Aboriginal women artists.

Perkins’ achievement was especially appreciated by Mollie Gowing, one of the volunteer guides.

Starting in 1992, Gowing collaborated with Perkins to privately fund the gallery’s major collection of contemporary Indigenous art.

In 1994, on the initiative of then NSW Minister for the Arts Peter Collins, the gallery opened Yiribana, its first permanent dedicated exhibition space for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art.

This basement had previously been the offices and working area for the public programs department and was not an especially sympathetic space for art. It was well over a decade before Indigenous art began to be integrated into other exhibits of Australian art.

Installation view of the Yiribana Gallery featuring (left) Ned Grant, Fred Grant, Patju Presley, Lawrence Pennington and Simon Hogan ‘Wati Kutjara’ 2019 and (right) Richard Bell, Emory Douglas ‘We can be heroes’ 2014. Photo © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter

The relocation of Yiribana to Sydney Modern can be seen as the gallery’s affirmation of the importance of Indigenous cultures to any understanding of what Australia may be.

Cultural exchange

In 1972 when the newly opened gallery wanted to show its best art to the world, the main gallery was dominated by art from the United States. All eyes were drawn to Morris Louis’ Ayin.

That same space now has work by Sol LeWitt in visual conversation with Emily Kame Kngwarreye and Gloria Tamerre Petyarre.

Sol LeWitt ‘Wall drawing #955, Loopy Doopy (red and purple)’ 2000 in the John Kaldor Family Hall at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, first drawn by Paolo Arao, Nicole Awai, Hidemi Nomura, Jean Shin, Frankie Woodruff at the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York, November 2000; current installation drawn by Kit Bylett, Andrew Colbert, Troy Donaghy, Szymon Dorabialski, Gabriel Hurier, Rachel Levine, Owen Lewis, Nadia Odlum, Tim Silver, Alexis Wildman at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, August 2022. © Estate of Sol LeWitt

The integration of Australian art with art from the rest of the world is a reflection of historic reality. Last century was a time of mass travel and cultural exchange, when many national barriers were breached, especially in the arts.

Sydney Modern, combined with the reconfiguring of the 20th century exhibits in the older building, is a quiet repudiation of that cultural cringe which persists in seeing Australian culture as some kind of backwater.

Although most of Sydney Modern is filled with light, its most surprising space is buried in dark.

During the second world war, when the navy fleet needed to refuel at Garden Island, the Australian government secretly built a giant underground fuel storage tank, its true depth hidden below the water line.

Now a spiral staircase leads the visitor to the Tank, a magical space of oil-stained columns and echoing sounds. Right now it is empty, but within weeks the Argentine-Peruvian artist, Adrián Villar Rojas will begin to create a new work, The End of Imagination.

The Tank space in the new building at the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Photo © Art Gallery of New South Wales, Jenni Carter

There are two meanings to the title. One suggests imagination is now dead. However, by being placed at the core of such an inspirational space it seems Rojas may be suggesting a culmination of imagination, a questioning of what imagination may be in these days of the Anthropocene.

The work is not yet made. As with the rest of the art that will fill this magical space, we will have to wait and see.The Conversation

Joanna Mendelssohn is an Honorary (Senior Fellow) School of Culture and Communication at the University of Melbourne. Editor in Chief, Design and Art of Australia Online, The University of Melbourne


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Friday 14 October 2022

Sandra Bullock's Arcadian Adobe Hacienda

The hacienda is at the heart of the 37-hectare estate surrounded by gardens and orchards. 





American Oscar-winning actor Sandra Bullock's idyllic rambling estate in San Diego is surrounded by orchards of olive, avocado and citrus trees. At the heart of the rolling hills is a handsome adobe hacienda opening on to flower-filled gardens. Before the estate is sold, we take a look inside. Alessandro de la Valle reports

The high-ceilinged main bedroom suite
has French doors to the pool and gardens
THE WHITE-WASHED HACIENDA sits atop a hill and has a 360-degree views of the undulating landscape stretching out to the mountainous horizon. 

Located in a rural community north of San Diego, surrounded by evocative hiking trails, this bucolic locale has long been home to film stars from Hollywood's heyday, from Fred Astaire to Mae West and John Wayne.

This is not the only substantial property Sandra Bullock owns, she has invested the wealth she has earned as a film actor into buying real estate across the United States. She has bought and sold homes in Los Angeles, New York and Austin. She bought this San Diego estate for $2.75 million in 2009 and has now listed it for $6 million. 

"I have an expensive hobby: buying homes, redoing them, tearing them down and building them up the way they want to be built. I want to be an architect," said the actor. And this hacienda has been completely renovated. Originally built in 1990, it is now filled with light throughout with floor-to-ceiling windows and bright white walls. The high-beamed ceilings give a great sense of space and French doors open most rooms on to the beautiful gardens. 

The house is encircled by hundreds of trees including an organic avocado orchard along with the numerous fruit trees planted around the estate. At the centre of the grounds is an iron-gated central courtyard with a fountain and a beehive. Also housed amid the leafy greenery is a charming three-bedroom guesthouse with a spa, its own gazebo and views overlooking the fragrant gardens.

This bucolic locale has long been home to the film stars of Hollywood's heyday, from Fred Astaire to Mae West and John Wayne


The country-style kitchen has soapstone
 benches, marble surrounds 
and white-oak floors
The main bedroom suite is luxurious in an understated way with an adobe fireplace, living area with rustic leather chairs and doors opening out on to the pool. 

There are another four large bedrooms, each with their own ensuite and French doors leading on to the home's broad verandas. A comfortable library has another big open fireplace and plenty of places to relax and read.

The kitchen has been specially designed in pale soapstone and Italian marble along with a striking inlaid mosaic above the enormous black-enamel and brass range. The wooden floors and beamed ceilings add a country aesthetic. 

The sunny, heated saltwater pool has an outdoor entertaining area with a gas outdoor fireplace, a big-screen TV, and a pool room. The house includes environmentally friendly elements such as solar panels for heating and an electric car charging station.

The hacienda is filled with light throughout with high-beamed ceilings and French doors opening on to broad verandas

The central courtyard has a stone fountain
and is ringed by the hacienda's verandas
Named one of Time’s 100 most influential people, Bullock has starred in movie blockbusters, including comedies, dramas and action thrillers. 

Dubbed 'America's sweetheart,' the versatile actor has a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame and took home the Oscar for Best Actress for the football classic The Blind Side. 

In both 2010 and 2014, she was the world’s highest-paid actress. She has starred in over 50 films, many of them great commercial successes, including Speed, Miss Congeniality, and Ocean’s 8. Today, she also works as a producer and her company, Fortis Films, has produced several of her star vehicles as well as other projects for television and streaming channels. 

The living room has beamed ceilings, another open fireplace and French doors on to the veranda and pool

One of the guest bedrooms overlooks the extensive gardens and opens on to a terrace. 

The heated, salt-water pool has a panoramic view out across to the hacienda's orchards and out to the hills stretching to the horizon. 

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Friday 9 September 2022

Best of Haute Couture Street Style in Paris

The cynosure of all eyes, the Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta Volkova graphic print 'Naked Dress' in Paris during Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023 Haute Couture. Photograph and cover picture of Chiara Ferragni by Elli Ioannou. 

As the European summer comes to a close, we take a look back at the best of the Paris haute couture street style, even more vibrant after two and half years of the pandemic. Stars were out in force on the streets of the French capital from Rossy de Palma in a striking white pant suit at Schiaparelli to Maluma at Jean Paul Gautier in a brilliant Olivier Rousteing ensemble with an outsize jewelled necklace by Joseph Klibanksy. Photography by Elli Ioannou, Matt Fisher, Jaime McPherson and Frea Norman

Rita Ora in a dazzling bustier
and embellished white jeans 
by Schiaparelli. Photograph:
Elli Ioannou

THE COBBLESTONE AVENUES OF PARIS during fashion week are packed with people at shows making sartorial statements from the stylish to the surreal. Will we be wearing any of these looks this autumn? The combination of luxurious pieces with street-style denim continues the high/low aesthetic that has dominated fashion this season.  

During haute couture week photographers move swiftly and fluidly to capture the best of street style: the dramatic, the chic, the outlandish and the famous. 

Rita Ora was a favourite, photographed with flowing fair tresses, wearing a glittering silver bustier to Schiaparelli, smiling as she walked into the show. 

Donning a Jean Paul Gaultier Naked Dress (see main picture), a tall blonde caught the attention of everyone outside of the show, from bloggers and vloggers to professional photographers. The show-stopping, maxi-length dress, designed by Lotta Volvoka, was inspired by Gaultier's SS96 collection called Cyberbaba. Made in Italy from stretch jersey, it features a nude trompe l'oeil silhouette on the front and back.

Supermodel Coco Rocha was on the street wearing an exquisite Iris van Herpen cream concoction and striking a pose. Haute couture only happens twice a year and only in Paris, first in wintry January and then in the peak summer month of July. Already the fashion merry-go-round of September's ready-to-wear in New York has begun. 

The combination of luxurious pieces with street-style denim continues the high/low aesthetic dominating fashion this season  

Maluma wearing Olivier Rousteing's
ensemble for Jean Paul Gaultier. 
Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Designers are able to express conceptual and imaginative ideas in haute couture that are not possible in the context of pret-a-porter collections. 

Couture brings another level of artistic creativity to the runway and to street style, including guests and the great fashion panoply filling central Paris. 

Although most of the shows during the pandemic were digital, this season the number of physical shows on the official calendar outnumbered them, with journalists and editors from all over the world returning to the French capital. 

Exquisite hand-working is part of the haute couture ethos, and this was evident at Maria Grazia Chiuri's very wearable show at Dior with beautiful embroidery and at Virginie Viard's new collection at Chanel. Balmain artistic director Olivier Rousteing designed an evocative one-off haute collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. The French couturier collaborates with a new designer each season who reimagines the Gaultier aesthetic. 

Colombian singer Maluma wore one of Olivier Rousteing's creations from the new show plus the necklace by Dutch artist Joseph Klibansky. The necklace and the pendant ~ the singer's dog Buda in a spacesuit ~ are made of 18k white gold and set with 15, 000 diamonds. The links combine circles wtih diamond-encrusted bones.

Haute couture brings another level of artistic creativity to the runway and to street style 

Rossy de Palma in a white suit
by Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry.
Photograph; Elli Ioannou

The avant-garde was found at Yuima Nakazato's Blue show, the Japanese designer sending his signature otherworldly designs down a runway made of origami-like rocks representing the planet. 

Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli again rifled through the house's Surrealist archive creating his signature sleek yet subversive designs.

All of the drama and theatricality is certainly not restricted to the catwalk and fashionistas were happy to express themselves in ever more extraordinary ways. 

This summer, it was not unusual to see evening gowns worn during the day with big chunky heels or floating, diaphanous dresses catching the breeze on a hot Paris afternoon, worn with runners. 

The suit was back too, with matching jackets and skirts or trousers as well as the contrasting super casual Nineties aesthetic seen everywhere: voluminous jeans, jackets and tight white t-shirts. ~ Jeanne-Marie Cilento



Scroll down to see Street Style Highlights from Paris Haue Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023
Winnie Harlow attracts a crowd at the Fendi show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Capturing the moment with iPhones raised outside Balenciaga. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022-2023. Photograph; Frea Norman
Wearing a design by Daniel Roseberry, Chiara Ferragni on the way to Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022 2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Rina Sawayama with fabulous face decoration at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 

Jamie Xie wearing Daniel Roseberry's extraordinary, gilded accessories. Paris Haute Couture 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Jamie Xie strikes a pose at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

A guest in full Schiaparelli stripes on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson
Stylish head-to-toe Schiaparelli, including earrings and handbag. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022/2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson

Dramatic, flowing gown on a guest on the way to Schiaparelli. She is wearing one of Daniel Roseberry's signature necklaces. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Coco Rocha wearing an otherworldly Iris van Herpen concoction outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Matt Fisher
Molly Chiang wearing a long Fendi jacket over a sheer skirt, on the way to the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Frea Norman
Molly Chiang's belted jacket in contrasting checks with belted detail. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023.Photogtaph: Frea Norman
Winne Harlow in a bustier with matching belt designed by Kim Jones at Fendi. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jamie McPherson

Brazilian singer Anitta wearing Daniel Roseberry designs outside Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture 2022~ 2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou


Anna Dello Russo wearing head-to-toe Schiaparelli, including belt, bag and earrings. Paris Haute Couture. Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Miss Fame shimmering in the sunlight at Iris van Herpen. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photographed by Jaime McPherson
Heart Evangelista in a delightful floral ensemble, outside the Schiaparelli show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Floaty, pleated creation at Iris van Herpen. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 
Feathered caplet and cloche hat designed by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Sabina Jakubowicz wearing a gilded breastplate and cloche hat/face mask designed by Daniel Roseberry   in at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Columbian singer Maluma wearing Olivier Rousteing at his show at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou 
Big glasses and a black and white jacket make a striking combination at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Striking a pose at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Taking it half-way at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Cindy Bruna attends the Jean Paul Gaultier show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou


Sporty shades and a singlet worn with a black kilt skirt outside Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou

Wearing Olivier Rousteing's design for Jean Paul Gaultier, a model stands on the balcony to show the waiting crowds below. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Drama and exuberance at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Elli Ioannou
Low rise, voluminous denim with a Nineties style leather cap and black glasses at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph. Elli Ioannou

Western hat, Ray-bans, tropical silk shirt and white jeans with a pink stripe make a colourful statement at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A model appears on the balcony at Jean Paul Gaultier, wearing one of Olivier Rousteing's creations for the new collection. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

The stretch Jersey maxi Naked Dress by Jean Paul Gaultier x Lotta Volkova captured a lot of attention outside the show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

Models wearing creations straight from the runway stand on the balcony at Jean Paul Gaultier. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou

A striped top and Jacquemus bag worn nonchalantly outside the Gaultier show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou
Heart Evangelista wearing sheer Fendi top and skirt at artistic director kim Jones' show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph; Jaime McPherson






Peach silk and transparent slip-ons captured on the way to Fendi. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Jaime McPherson




Graphic black and white with fringes and lace up boots at Iris van Herpen, Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022 2023. Photograph: Matt Fisher 
 
The crowds outside Balenciaga for Olivier Rousteing's show. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Frea Norman

Law Roach wearing a striking embroidered creation by Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli. Paris Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022~2023. Photograph: Elli Ioannou


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