|David Gandy wears one of the key trends seen on the catwalk this SS16 season, the bomber jacket in soft suede. Photography by Mike Rolls|
As the Spring/Summer 2016 men’s shows come to a close for the season, it is striking to note that London Collections: Men has become, in just a few short years, one of the most anticipated events on the menswear fashion calendar along with Milan, Paris and New York, Limor Helfgott reports
|All suited up in London, David Gandy out and about. Photo by Scott Wilson|
Shirts off? Revealing designs that showed off men's chests on the catwalk were one of the strong looks this season. Rory Parnell-Mooney at the MAN collection had tops with angular peep holes exposing model’s torso.
|American jocks featured at Sibling. Photo By Limor Helfgott|
The rise of the Man clutchOne of the standout trends among the street style looks and fashion show attendees was the man clutch as a practical yet stylish accessory that is clearly replacing the man bag, the backpack or the heavy holdall. On the catwalks the interpretation was quite different, proving that sometimes form wins over function.
|Patent flats and hanging metal manbags at J.W Anderson|
|Big rucksacks & bags at Christopher Raeburn. Photo by Limor Helfgott|
|The lacy collection at Burberry Prorsum with the new Barrow bag|
|Henry Holland with his first menswear collection: sporty yet tailored.|
Prints and Technicolour
Prints and patterns were strong looks at the last Autumn/Winter 2015 collections, and this season they were loud, lively and often made up of an eccentric mix of colours and designs.
|Patterns and vivid colour at Kit Neale's show. Photo by Limor Helfgott|
|James Long's stylish collection with touches of neon. Photo by Dan Sims|
|Alexander McQueen's show featured nautical motifs. Photo by Shaun Cox|
The Alexander McQueen collection, inspired by The Tempest and Rime of the Ancient Mariner, moved further away from last season’s painterly themes to more geometric designs with a nautical motif. “It was about the idea of being at sea and having a sense of belonging there, of identifying yourself through the sea,” said Sarah Burton, the brand's creative director. Nautical tattoo motifs were incorporated onto suits and jackets with classic men’s silhouettes. Pieces included slim-fitting dinner jackets, pyjama-style shirts, asymmetric knitted sweaters and suits patterned in ship’s camouflage. While prints and embellishments were key to the collection, the colour palette was quite a subtle one including black, off-white, navy blue, aqua and orange.
|The bold, oriental collection by Xander Zhou. Photo by Liron Weissman|
Oriental silhouettes and prints were a key theme this season, including the bold collection of Beijing-based menswear designer Xander Zhou: “The East has arrived. Salute and embrace it,” he declared.
|Xander Zhou's felt, embroidered biker jackets. Photo by Liron Weissman|
|David Gandy wearing suede. Photo by Mike Rolls|
A key material this season was the use of suede in many of the collections. A good suede jacket will be a wise investment this year and always adds a luxurious feel to an outfit whether it is biker, bomber or anorak in style. Even though outerwear wasn’t a big part of the spring summer collection, in places like London jackets are still a part of our wardrobe even in June. In the front rows of the LCM fashion show, Nickolas Grimshaw, Tinie Tempah and David Gandy, were all spotted wearing suede.
|Street style: vivid pattern. Photo by Liron Weissman|
Up until a few seasons ago, it was all about being minimal in menswear, preferably in a flat range of white, black and grey. But it is obvious now that prints are here to stay. One thing that is making its way back to the men’s wardrobe is the graphic t-shirt. Always an easy way to make a statement, many designers are creating t-shirts to emphasise their collection’s theme and to express themselves. Wearing prints is one of those looks that needs to be worn with caution. To work this trend into your everyday wardrobe try to wear one piece with large patterns rather a cacophony of styles. If you do decide to mix patterns, as seen on the catwalks, try to make sure the prints contrast but complement each other: pair motifs that differ either in pattern or tone but not in both.
|Socks made a comeback at Sibling SS16. Photo by Limor Helfgott|
For the last few seasons, we could see the “mankle” everywhere – and it was becoming acceptable wearing formal footwear with no socks and cropped trousers. Spring/Summer 2016 sees the return of the sock.
|Suit, pattern & colour on Kadu Dantas. Photo: Scott Wilson|